Global food history最新文献

{"title":"Hearse Pies and Pastry Coffins: Material Cultures of Food, Preservation, and Death in the Early Modern British World","authors":"Amanda E. Herbert, Michael Walkden","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2252665","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2252665","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT With a long history as a vehicle for preserving perishable fillings against spoilage, pie was imagined as both a lavish banqueting centerpiece and an edible symbol of globalization in the seventeenth and eighteenth century British and early American worlds. Filled with expensive and difficult-to-obtain ingredients, and frequently sent over long distances in a culture of performative gift-exchange, pies were complex and multivalent objects. By examining the pie’s reputation as a means of preserving food alongside its widespread – but now largely forgotten – cultural association with death and dying, we suggest that for elite consumers, these pastry “coffins” could fulfill a similar function to memento mori: a reminder of the impermanence of organic matter and the inevitability of death and decomposition. Taking pie, an edible and ephemeral food, as a subject of material-cultural analysis, we can open unexpected avenues for understanding some of the emotions evoked by global consumption.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"242 - 269"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42682380","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Imperial Wine: How the British Empire Made Wine’s New World","authors":"Kathleen A. Brosnan","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2257576","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2257576","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"35 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134968356","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Communist Quality: Dairy Production at the Leningrad Dairy Combine, 1965-1982","authors":"Donald Morard","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2249567","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2249567","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-08-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43051088","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Limits of Disgust: Eating the Inedible During Jamestown’s Starving Time","authors":"Rachel Winchcombe","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2234252","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2234252","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-07-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41364448","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Valuable Waste: Soviet management of food scarcity in the early 1930s","authors":"François-Xavier Nérard","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2228626","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2228626","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Stalin’s “Great Break” of 1928 threw the Soviet population into a period of extreme material shortages. As hunger swept over the country, waste and its management became a central concern of the Party-State. This article situates food waste as a systemic feature of the Stalinist regime, providing fresh insights into both Food and Soviet histories. It explores the large campaigns that were launched to educate the Russian public about the need to minimize food waste in the 1930s and traces the uncertain rise of state canteens: eateries that were promoted as a rational and modern way to produce and distribute food throughout this period. In practice, as this article will show, these efforts to curtail waste and alter food behaviors were largely unsuccessful. Poor transport and storage conditions led to the deterioration of large quantities of food. But because of the severe shortages, spoiled food was frequently prepared and eaten by consumers regardless, leading to regular bouts of food poisoning for which cooks and canteen managers were blamed. All the while, Soviet political elites continued to perform their power and (relative) opulence by wasting their own food behind closed doors. In Soviet society, food waste was both a disgraceful practice to be avoided and a subtle symbol of wealth, prestige, and power.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"324 - 343"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-06-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46149151","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Imperial Hops: Beer in the Age of Empire","authors":"Jeffrey M. Pilcher","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2226526","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2226526","url":null,"abstract":"The global spread of lager beers such as Heineken, Budweiser, Sapporo and Corona offers a seemingly classic case of cultural imperialism displacing local beverages including Japanese sake, Bolivian chicha, and African sorghum beer. Empire indeed launched beer to global status, beginning with British brewers shipping ale and porter to provision imperial agents around the world, although by the turn of the twentieth century, the crisp, clean taste of German lager had largely displaced heavier British brews from colonial markets. Lager beer also came to be seen as a civilizing taste in comparison with strongly flavored indigenous drinks, attracting many local consumers, despite imperial prohibitions against native consumption of European alcohol. Ultimately, Europe’s export brewers lost out to migrant brewers, who transplanted barley and hops, installed refrigerated machinery, and freed settler colonists and Native consumers alike from their reliance on beer from the metropolis, thereby demonstrating the limits of empire.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"70 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-06-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136355703","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Pioneer’s Feast: Colonial Menus in Italian East Africa","authors":"Diana Garvin","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2213872","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2213872","url":null,"abstract":"This article examines colonial Italian menus used in interwar Ethiopia and Eritrea to understand how pr ivate companies sup- ported Fascism’s imperial projects. Feasts celebrated battlefield victories, steamship journeys, and settlement soirees. Menus pro- duced by shipping companies (Rex, Lloyd Triestino) and banks (Banca di Roma) for use by Italian colonists on Ethiopian settlements speaks to the economics of the regime , demonstrating how corporations used food to uphold and extend Fascist narratives of racial superiority. Herein lies a core contention of this article: the engine of fascist power lay in its financial supporters – that is, in industry.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44497660","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Introduction: Forgotten Food Histories of South Asia","authors":"Jayeeta Sharma, Siobhan Lambert-Hurley","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2215161","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2215161","url":null,"abstract":"Heritage food is a boom industry in India and Pakistan today. Five-star hotels and fashionable restaurants tout menus replete with “lost recipes” and “gastronomic traditions,” while colonial-era eateries – Karim’s in Delhi being one of the most famous – turn their history into franchise. Food festivals, too, from Lahore to Chennai bring historic flavors to a general public hungry for dishes with provenance. For those wanting to bring home “centuries old food traditions,” bookstores stock a colorful array of cookbooks selling South Asian cuisine through the prism of kitchen stories or a royal banquet. To make or complement those recipes, handy online providers and trendy grocers alike market heirloom food products: from Sempulam Sustainable Solutions’ “traditional organic rice” to Bengalaru-based Loafer & Co’s “local grain, global bread” made with “ancient” grains. Since the runaway success of “Raja, Rasoi aur Anya Kahaniyaan” (“Kings, Kitchens and Other Stories”) – heading for Season 5 in 2023 – Netflix has capitalized on this interest in “culinary traditions” to keep viewers hanging on for “more like this.” Vloggers and bloggers from Instagram to TikTok enrich their #foodporn with a spoonful of Wikihistory to win over subscribers and rack up the “likes.” Yet, as journalist Sourish Bhattacharyya noted way back in 2015, much of the hype around India’s “lost recipes” and “heritage cuisine” is little more than “a lot of chatter.” “We need historians,” he concluded, if practitioners aim to do more than “scratch the surface.” Bringing historians into partnership with practitioners – including heritage activists, writers, street vendors, performers, chefs and farmers – was at the core of the broader project out of which this special issue on “Forgotten Food Histories of South Asia” has emerged. In 2019, scholars and culinary experts from the United Kingdom, India, and Canada came together to frame an original program of publicly engaged research and global knowledge mobilization under the title: “Forgotten Food: Culinary Memory, Local Heritage and Lost Agricultural Varieties in India.” This project successfully obtained funding from the Global Challenges Research Fund through the Arts and Humanities Research Council of the United Kingdom (2019–2023). The nature of that funding required the building of “fair and equitable partnerships” with the aim of using academic research to “improve lives and opportunity” in line with the United Nations’ sustainable development goals. The team of food studies scholars, with close links to public history and community groups, believed that fostering an awareness of historic recipes and culinary heritage could tangibly contribute to social cohesion and the mediating of difference, especially at a time of heightened communal tensions and violence in India. A key question for the Forgotten Food research project was how and why assumed fixities in contemporary South Asia – as captured in nationalist and communal discours","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"95 - 106"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43310734","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"“Human or Not, Everyone Has Their Own Habits and Tastes”: Food, Identity and Difference in Muslim South Asia","authors":"Siobhan Lambert-Hurley","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2196924","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2196924","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT That India was experiencing a rise in vigilante-style violence linked to the emotive issues of cow slaughter and meat consumption came to widespread public attention in 2015 with a wave of “beef lynchings.” What one ate – beef or not – was being constructed as a fundamental marker of difference between religious communities, and caste groups too. In the communal discourse, protagonists were undifferentiated and immutable: Hindus and Muslims have always been divided, and perhaps inevitably in conflict, because one worships the cow, while the other eats it. As a challenge to this politicized narrative, my article explores how food has been employed as a marker of identity and difference among South Asian Muslims in the modern period. To access more quotidian experience, the main sources are travel narratives, many of which were written by women, who were more occupied with food’s preparation and serving. These writings reveal the ways in which food was used at different historical moments and locations to differentiate between, not just Hindus and Muslims, but also colonizer and colonized, men and women, old nobilities, a new middle class and “the poor,” and Muslims of different regions and locales. As one woman from Delhi indicated during a debate over ghee aboard a pilgrim ship in the early 1920s: “Human or not, everyone has their own habits and tastes.” In other words, food may be a universal human experience, but it is also a means of differentiating self and other that is contingent on history.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"194 - 216"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47102269","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Perfumed Palate: Olfactory Practices of Food Consumption at the Mughal Court","authors":"Neha Vermani","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2203603","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2203603","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This article considers the centrality of smells, both fragrant and fetid, to food practices at the Mughal court. Mughal-era manuscripts and paintings frequently reference the smells of spices, fruits, and flowers in the context of food preparation as well as consumption. They describe, too, the widespread use of aromatics derived from animals, especially ambergris and musk. The article explores how incorporation of these odoriferous substances in food dishes and dining spaces was envisaged as an ethical endeavor for fashioning of the Mughal elite as civilized, healthy, and spiritually refined gentlemen.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"107 - 129"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-04-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45294697","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}