Global food history最新文献

{"title":"Narrating Rampur’s Cuisine: Cookbooks, Forgotten Foods, and Culinary Memories","authors":"Tarana Khan","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2196925","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2196925","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Rampur, a princely state established by Rohilla Pathans in 1774, became the cultural node, or markaz, of north Indian Muslim culture under the patronage of its ruling Nawabs. This article uncovers the narrative arc of Rampur cuisine and foodways by examining archival sources from the nineteenth century on Rampur’s cuisine preserved at the Rampur Raza Library, as well as historical records and gastronomic memory of culinary practitioners and other members of society. Through a process of amalgamation and improvisation, it grew out of the Delhi and Lucknow cuisines into a distinctly Paḵẖtun (an ethnolinguistic group native to southern Afghanistan and northern Pakistan) foodway, which was adapted and textualized as a new “haute” Rampur cuisine by the Nawabs and the nobility. The study delves into the paratexts of the archived manuscripts – their language, authorship, and authorial motivation – to delineate cultural markers of this culinary journey while also recovering the intergenerational transmission of sensual memories. It interrogates how the narrative arc of Rampur cuisine reveals relationships with the past, epochal socio-political changes, and changing cultural identities with the appropriation and forgetting of foodways.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"149 - 174"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-04-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41853063","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Bengali Mughlai Platter on the Table: Muslim and Indo-Persian Food Culture in Bengal","authors":"J. Sengupta","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2191491","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2191491","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Shorn of a strong aristocratic lineage tracing its roots to the Turko-Persian world, Bengal’s Muslim population was created by a wide-ranging conversion of poor peasants. Indo-Persianate cuisine was thus slow to spread here, patronized by the eighteenth-century Nawabi court in Murshidabad, fitfully adopted by Bengal’s predominantly Hindu landed aristocracy in the mid-nineteenth, and spreading among the non-elite only after the move to Calcutta of the deposed Nawab Wajid Ali Shah of Awadh. The Partition created two slightly different culinary traditions on either side of the international border, in Kolkata and Dhaka. How does one then approach the question of “heritage food” among the Muslims today in a state – and in a city like Kolkata – that combines such divergent historical trajectories? The paper will offer some tentative answers by examining both the materiality of food consumption, and the discursive processes that crafted an imagined heritage of Indo-Persian food culture in Bengal.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"130 - 148"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43271186","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Cultivating Victory: The Women’s Land Army and the Victory Garden Movement","authors":"Anne van Mourik","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2191241","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2191241","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"217 - 219"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49584651","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"From Colonial Hoof to Metropolitan Table: The Imperial Biopolitics of Beef Provisioning in Colonial Korea","authors":"Tatsuya Mitsuda","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2159708","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2159708","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45143269","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Editorial Introduction","authors":"Jeffrey M. Pilcher","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2167794","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2167794","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135755231","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Rice, Wine, Grapes, and Land in Shangri-La: The Politics of Land and Water Loss in a Catholic Tibetan Village","authors":"Brendan A. Galipeau","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2145755","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2145755","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This paper analyzes agricultural pathways and the impacts of land requisition from dam construction in a Catholic community in Tibetan Southwest China. Cizhong Village is unique for its Catholic religion and unique agroecology of growing paddy rice and grapes for household winemaking, one of the very few ethnic Tibetan communities to do so. This unique agriculture is due to the community being located at the boundary between two larger culinary/agricultural spheres, rice boiling, and wheat grinding peoples. The situation has changed with a construction of a large dam, which caused another community to be moved on top of the village’s paddy fields. In the context of this issue on food politics, the paper also highlights the ways in which new global forces related to infrastructure (dam building), are disabling unique interfacing forms of self-sufficient food production, leading to emotional responses among rural farming communities.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"72 - 91"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-11-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47651843","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Milk in Motion: Logistical Geographies in Twentieth-Century Britain","authors":"Chris Otter","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2138068","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2138068","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This article analyses the formation of the logistical system designed to supply and deliver milk in twentieth-century Britain. The article explores several themes: the painful, monotonous lives of cattle; the affective relations forged by milkmen; the acceleration of milk distribution; the rise of multiple chokepoints; and the increasingly encapsulated nature of modern milk. The system was a vast technology of niche construction, producing new milieux for cattle while increasing human milk consumption and providing novel environments for animal behavior, notably the emergent capacity of some birds to open milk bottles. The article, finally, draws attention to two major tensions within the system: that between the treatment of cows and the affection with which milkmen and bottled milk were frequently held; and that between the genuine advances toward seamless milk distribution and the endless irruption of chokepoints. These tensions suggest that logistics is a more contradictory process than is sometimes assumed.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"47 - 71"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46851278","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"“Classifying” Margarine: The Early Class-Based Marketing of a Butter Substitute in Sweden (1923-1933)","authors":"L. O’Hagan","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2136876","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2136876","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract From its inception in 1869, margarine was considered a working-class food, associated with poverty and inferiority. In the early twentieth century, Swedish margarine brands set about to change public perception of the product, investing vast sums of money in extensive marketing campaigns to showcase it as suitable for the middle classes. However, wanting to retain as much market share as possible, they also continued to direct margarine advertisements at the working classes. Thus, a seemingly paradoxical situation emerged where the same brands, often in the same newspapers, published advertisements aimed at two distinct audiences. This paper uses multimodal critical discourse analysis to examine a large body of margarine advertisements produced in Sweden between 1923 and 1933. Specifically, it considers how brands appealed to either working-class or middle-class identities, socialisation, relationships, and rituals in the arguments they put forward about the values of margarine. It finds that middle-classadvertisements were focused on promoting margarine as exclusive and luxurious, challenging prejudices and encouraging them to learn from the working classes, while working-class advertisements centred around respectability and keeping up appearances, valuing frugality and thrift and commending traditional ways of life and regional/national customs.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"20 - 46"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46013249","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Culinary Codes for an Emergent Nation: Prescriptions from Pak Chandrika, 1926","authors":"Saumya Gupta","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2118461","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2118461","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Cuisines are never neutral, innocent concoctions, but products of dominant ideologies and power structures. This paper explores culinary codes advanced by popular Hindi cookbooks from the early twentieth century to see how they re-define the kitchen and the culinary world of urban, middle-class Hindu families. Focusing especially on Pak Chandrika, a cookbook published from Allahabad in 1926, the paper argues that these Hindi cookbooks contributed to the residual ground – especially in relation to the intimate, the everyday and the comestible – that potentially fed into the emergent nationalism in early twentieth century north India.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"175 - 193"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43895433","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Introduction: Feeding, Eating, Worrying: Chinese Food Politics Across Time","authors":"Ling Zhang, Mindi Schneider","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2122384","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2122384","url":null,"abstract":"Why study food and food politics? The simple answer is: because everyone eats. Food is perhaps the fundamental human-nature relation. As a species, humans have engaged with and transformed non-human nature in myriad ways to find, make, and consume food. We need food to survive as individuals, just as societies need to organize food getting to endure. The food possibilities of regions, seasons, and forms of rule underlie much human movement and settlement in the past and today, and the success of political regimes hinges importantly on the governing body’s ability to ensure food supply and distribution. In the study of human history, societies, and humanecological relationships, food is central. This fact isn’t always recognized. In the spring of 2018 and again in the autumn of 2019, we (the contributors) gathered for two workshops on the theme of “Feeding China.” We were coming together on the hunch of Ling Zhang, one of the collection’s editors, that food is a compelling connecting thread between diverse fields of scholarship in China Studies. Our group of contributors includes historians, political ecologists, geographers, anthropologists, and sociologists who variously study environmental history, military history, peasant revolution, agrarian change, food security politics, environmental politics, food and anxiety, sustainable development, meaning-making around food and diet, rural-urban transformations, moral and political economies, hunger, grain markets, and the circulation of basic food supplies in China’s past and present. On the final day of the second workshop, just before everyone departed, we gathered to reflect on why we study food and food politics, and if food is indeed a compelling thread to bring us into conversation. Each of us shared, in turn, how we came to study food, or to include food in our scholarship on other aspects of Chinese culture and society. For one of us, “food is a way to access non-elite perspectives” from the distant past, in part because there are “things you can see in food culture that you can’t see in written culture.” For another, food is an important entry point in contemporary fieldwork where “chatting over a meal gets you everywhere; you get to intimate questions and problems through food.” Another said that they didn’t have a choice in studying food because, “If you want to understand China’s agrarian change, you need to understand food.” As a plea to further interrogate food-based relations in the academy, another contributor said, “Food is what Chinese people talk about. What are we missing if we suppress this topic?” [in our research and disciplines]. While our perspectives and interests as a group vary, and finding convergences among our far-flung studies isn’t always easy, we meet on five convictions. First, that food is analytically valuable. We agree that studying food itself, or studying other phenomena and relationships through food, is important for our research and our disciplines. Second,","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"153 - 156"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42832382","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}