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Global food history最新文献

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The Global History of Organic Farming 全球有机农业史
Global food history Pub Date : 2020-05-03 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2020.1770668
R. O'Sullivan
{"title":"The Global History of Organic Farming","authors":"R. O'Sullivan","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2020.1770668","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2020.1770668","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"6 1","pages":"164 - 165"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20549547.2020.1770668","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41751010","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Reflections on the Historical Construction of Huaiyang Cuisine: A Study on the Social Development of Shanghai Foodways in Hong Kong 淮扬菜的历史建构思考——以上海菜在香港的社会发展为例
Global food history Pub Date : 2020-05-03 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2020.1762522
Sidney C. H. Cheung
{"title":"Reflections on the Historical Construction of Huaiyang Cuisine: A Study on the Social Development of Shanghai Foodways in Hong Kong","authors":"Sidney C. H. Cheung","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2020.1762522","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2020.1762522","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Chinese regional cuisines have developed their own flavors and presentation styles. Huaiyang cuisine (淮揚菜) in the Jiangsu area emphasizes excellent cutting skills, culinary techniques, and the use of ingredients cultivated in the Yangtze River Delta area. There is no doubt that regional cuisines have distinctive local characteristics. However, with increased migration since the 1950s, it has become important to investigate how these local cuisines have changed in relation to the culinary skills and tastes of people in different regional contexts. To gauge the discrepancy between the historical construction of the cuisine in modern times and everyday food practices, Hong Kong will be used as a case study. Since most people in Hong Kong are unfamiliar with Huaiyang cuisine, this paper explains why there has been an overemphasis on official historical discourse from the national perspective and how the change of regional should be understood as a living practice from the diasporic context.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"6 1","pages":"128 - 142"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20549547.2020.1762522","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44377054","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Making “Chinese Cuisine”: The Grand Hotel and Chuan-Yang Cuisine in Postwar Taiwan 制作“中国菜”：战后台湾的大饭店与川洋菜
Global food history Pub Date : 2020-03-16 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2020.1738148
Pintsang Tseng, Yujen Chen
{"title":"Making “Chinese Cuisine”: The Grand Hotel and Chuan-Yang Cuisine in Postwar Taiwan","authors":"Pintsang Tseng, Yujen Chen","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2020.1738148","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2020.1738148","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT The Grand Hotel (Yuanshan Dafandian), built in 1952, was a landmark in the Republic of China (ROC). Through an analysis of menus and the style of the Grand Hotel in Taiwan from the 1950s to the 1970s, this article reveals how war and the migration of the government influenced the formation of a new type of hybrid Chinese regional cuisine, Chuan-Yang style, presented in state banquets. It first explores how “Chinese-ness” was presented and performed in state banquets, including the space and dishes that were characteristic of Chuan-Yang cuisine. By tracing the changing definitions of “China’s great regional culinary traditions,” it then investigates why Chuan-Yang cuisine was invented in the postwar period. After comparing different interpretations of “Chinese cuisine” found in state banquets in the People’s Republic of China (PRC), this article argues that “regional cuisines” could be defined in terms beyond the geographic, and demonstrates how they embody political and social transformations.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"6 1","pages":"110 - 127"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-03-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20549547.2020.1738148","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44053758","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
What Is “Chinese” Food? Historicizing the Concept of Culinary Regionalism 什么是“中国”食物?烹饪地域性概念的历史化
Global food history Pub Date : 2020-03-16 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2020.1736427
M. King
{"title":"What Is “Chinese” Food? Historicizing the Concept of Culinary Regionalism","authors":"M. King","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2020.1736427","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2020.1736427","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT When discussing Chinese food in the People’s Republic of China, the concept of culinary regionalism appears everywhere. Scholarly and popular accounts alike systematically list the same four (eight, ten, or twelve) “great” regional cuisines (sidacaixi, badacaixi, etc.), asserting that the designation of the original four great regional cuisines (Lu from Shandong Province, Yue from Guangdong Province, Chuan from Sichuan Province, and Huaiyang from Jiangsu Province) arose during the Qing dynasty (1644–1911). This article argues that the standardized concept of a four- (or more) part culinary system is likely a much later historical development, possibly even of the post-Mao reform era. It draws upon different historical definitions of “Chinese” food, using the food writings of Yuan Mei (1716–98), Xu Ke (1869–1928), Lin Yutang (1895–1976), and Qi Rushan (1875–1962). How can a better understanding of the historical dynamics of culinary regionalism affect our understanding of “Chinese” food?","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"6 1","pages":"109 - 89"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-03-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20549547.2020.1736427","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44658600","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 5
American Provisioning and the Environmental Impact on Islands in the Indian Ocean 美国的供应与对印度洋岛屿的环境影响
Global food history Pub Date : 2020-03-12 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2020.1737440
Jane Hooper
{"title":"American Provisioning and the Environmental Impact on Islands in the Indian Ocean","authors":"Jane Hooper","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2020.1737440","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2020.1737440","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Studies of Indian Ocean commerce have focused on the role of commodities such as silver or spices in creating and sustaining connections within the ocean and beyond. This emphasis obscures the exigencies that forced captains to visit islands in the Indian Ocean in search of provisions to feed crews during long distance voyages. This provisioning would have unforeseen consequences, particularly environmental ones, by the early nineteenth century when Americans joined European merchants and whalers in traveling through the western Indian Ocean. This paper explores the extent to which the actions taken by US sailors increased political and ecological instability in several locations including Madagascar, the Seychelles, and islands in the southern Indian Ocean. Provisioning demands reshaped local economies and political systems, in addition to contributing to conditions of scarcity on the region’s smallest islands.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"6 1","pages":"194 - 210"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-03-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20549547.2020.1737440","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49555142","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Eating Clean: Anti-Chinese Sugar Advertising and the Making of White Racial Purity in the Canadian Pacific 吃得干净：反华糖广告与加拿大太平洋地区白人种族纯洁的制造
Global food history Pub Date : 2020-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2020.1712577
D. Belisle
{"title":"Eating Clean: Anti-Chinese Sugar Advertising and the Making of White Racial Purity in the Canadian Pacific","authors":"D. Belisle","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2020.1712577","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2020.1712577","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Between 1891 and 1914, western Canada’s largest sugar manufacturer – BC Sugar – constructed a racialized discourse of food cleanliness. This discourse argued that Chinese-made sugars were contaminated while Canadian-made sugars were clean. Through an analysis of this discourse, this article argues that BC Sugar constructed a purity/polluted binary that suggested that white consumers’ racial purity was threatened by Chinese-made sugars. It then links BC Sugar’s clean foods campaign to three broader trends. First, it illustrates that BC Sugar’s construction of pure versus polluted foods supported the effort to establish white supremacy in the Canadian Pacific. Second, it demonstrates that discourses of food purity enabled white settlers to construct bodily purity by the eating of so-called clean foods. Third, it argues that since contemporary discourses of food cleanliness rely on pure versus polluted metaphors, scholars must attend to the motivations driving today’s clean eating movement.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"6 1","pages":"41 - 59"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20549547.2020.1712577","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46347057","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 3
French Gastronomy and the Magic of Americanism 法国美食与美国主义的魔力
Global food history Pub Date : 2020-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2020.1714853
S. Finn
{"title":"French Gastronomy and the Magic of Americanism","authors":"S. Finn","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2020.1714853","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2020.1714853","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"6 1","pages":"81 - 83"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20549547.2020.1714853","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46247100","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
The Rise of the Chef in Java Java厨师的崛起
Global food history Pub Date : 2020-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2019.1707017
T. Hoogervorst, Jiří Jákl
{"title":"The Rise of the Chef in Java","authors":"T. Hoogervorst, Jiří Jákl","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2019.1707017","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2019.1707017","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This study traces the professionalization of cooking in Southeast Asia, specifically in precolonial Java. We call attention to three different types of cooks documented in the island’s textual record: household cooks (including commercial cooks), cooks in religious establishments, and professional cooks. Women were in charge of the first category, whereas the second and third were controlled by men yet also featured women. Household cooks and religious cooks mainly prepared simple fare, whereas chefs employed by courts were responsible for the repast of the elites. To learn more about these cooks and their skills, we examine specific passages of Old Javanese texts, which should not be neglected by food historians of Southeast Asia. These excerpts are analyzed in comparison with contemporaneous texts from India and Cambodia. We also assess them against more recent culinary practices in insular Southeast Asia, enabling us to reconstruct some of the actual dishes mentioned in the classical literature. Through careful reading between the lines, we thus bring together different strands of evidence to revise Java’s culinary history.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"6 1","pages":"3 - 21"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20549547.2019.1707017","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46996662","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Feast of Burden: Food, Consumption and Femininity in Nineteenth-century England 负担盛宴：19世纪英国的食物、消费与女性气质
Global food history Pub Date : 2020-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2018.1455135
J. Pace
{"title":"Feast of Burden: Food, Consumption and Femininity in Nineteenth-century England","authors":"J. Pace","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2018.1455135","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2018.1455135","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract At the end of the eighteenth century, a remarkable shift occurred in how upper-class women were taught to interact with food. Using conduct manuals and medical advice books, I show how women began to withdraw from the kitchen, taught to ignore the drudgery and burdens of food preparation as inappropriate for their class. This change precipitated a new definition of appropriate feminine behavior. New guidelines identified ladylike behavior with a lack of cooking, with impeccable table manners, and with a willingness to embrace new rituals such as the procession into the dining room. Women had to assume a very different role at dinner, one laden with new ceremonial emphasis. The etiquette surrounding this change demanded a strict adherence that made the display of one’s manners an indication of one’s morality, and the potential for embarrassment became so high that women were taught how to control their food consumption in order to avoid difficult or embarrassing dinner situations.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"6 1","pages":"22 - 40"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20549547.2018.1455135","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41747623","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Let Them Eat Beans? Class and American Food Discourse during the Progressive Era 让他们吃豆子?进步时代的阶级与美国饮食话语
Global food history Pub Date : 2020-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2019.1663040
Chin Jou
{"title":"Let Them Eat Beans? Class and American Food Discourse during the Progressive Era","authors":"Chin Jou","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2019.1663040","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2019.1663040","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Using primary sources from home economics and social work archival collections, this article considers the discourse of American food and nutrition experts of the Progressive Era (roughly 1890 to 1920) in relation to class. These experts, a protean group that included scientists, home economists, social reformers, and self-styled experts on diet from largely middle-class or affluent backgrounds, were writing at a time of intense class conflict replete with numerous strikes and the violent suppression of labor. Through an analysis of experts’ commentaries and tracts on diet and nutrition, this article proposes that, while they evinced considerable condescension toward the poor, the experts noted in this article appeared earnest in their convictions that they were applying their expertise in ways that could help the working classes consume “economically” without sacrificing on nutrition. The poor and working classes, however, were justifiably skeptical, and in some cases, hostile, to dietary interventions and instructions.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"6 1","pages":"60 - 80"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20549547.2019.1663040","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45318253","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
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