{"title":"Stewed Chicken and Long-Nosed Kings: Tasting Troubled Plenty","authors":"Caroline Merrifield","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2115756","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2115756","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This ethnographic article examines conditions of material plenty in post-reform China from the perspective of staff and suppliers at a farm-to-table restaurant in Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province. From data gathered during mealtime conversations and through everyday reflections on food and flavor, I piece together an historical hypothesis about changing times and tastes in Hangzhou. I find that food talk embodies and reflects my interlocutors’ analysis of a state-superintended post-reform social order, which is undergoing a crisis of “familiarity.” I argue that the sensory qualities of food afford unique access to past experiences in the present, making food a crucial site of political consciousness and critique.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"177 - 193"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43623725","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Pastry for the Working Classes (Belgium, 1880-1914)","authors":"Peter Scholliers","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2110786","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2110786","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT The paper studies the working-class consumption of fresh pastry and viennoiseries in the decades before the Great War. These goods had been the privilege of the rich up to the 1880s. Investigating the diffusion of fresh pastry and viennoiseries, viewed here as an example of inclusion of a bourgeois good into working-class consumption, may clarify the pace of dissemination of new consumer goods among broad layers. The production of pastry by the socialist cooperative Vooruit (Ghent, East-Flanders) is studied, which gives a political dimension to the paper. Based on original documents, the paper concludes that prior to 1914 there were three successive waves of diffusion of pastry sales by this cooperative, shaped by price policy, advertisement campaigns, the organization of the sales, and the desires of consumers. The socialist cooperative largely contributed to the diffusion of hitherto luxury goods among the working classes.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"3 - 19"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46912295","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Camel Controversies and Pork Politics in British Mandate Palestine","authors":"Efrat Gilad","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2106074","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2106074","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48015096","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The Blood of the Colony: Wine and The Rise and Fall of French Algeria","authors":"P. Whalen","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2101282","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2101282","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"92 - 94"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-07-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49664986","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Hungry for Revolution: The Politics of Food and the Making of Modern Chile","authors":"P. Vidal","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2081941","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2081941","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"149 - 151"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45371736","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"“The Stinkier the Better!”—A Case Study on the Reinvention of River Snail Noodles and the Transformation of Taste in China","authors":"Veronica Mak Sau-Wa","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2061816","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2061816","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48484743","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Between Yerba Mate and Soy: The Orange as National Food and Landscape from the Early Nineteenth to the Early Twenty-First Centuries in Paraguay","authors":"B. Chesterton","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2058278","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2058278","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Yerba mate (Paraguayan green tea) and soy are the commodities most associated with Paraguayan foodways and landscapes. This article, however, explores how oranges played an outsized role in Paraguay from the nation’s founding in the early nineteenth century to the fruit’s decline in the early twenty-first century. Using the narratives of travel writers, the writings of Paraguayan scientists, newspaper articles, and recorded memories, the text argues that oranges shaped an image of an “exotic,” “fertile,” and “abundant” nation. Even during times of famine oranges persisted as symbols of “survival.” In the end, the article posits that a simple imported plant fundamentally shaped the construction of ideas about nation and landscape in nineteenth and twentieth-century Paraguay. By connecting land, production, and subsistence, this article interrogates the creation and meanings of national foods.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"128 - 148"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41812248","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"State-Directed Capitalist Agrarian Change in the Creation of China’s Biggest Tea County: Integrating Capital and Labor in Meitan County, Guizhou","authors":"A. Day","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2031792","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2031792","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This paper investigates the reconstruction of a county tea industry in order to help map capitalist agrarian change in contemporary China. The concentration of the tea industry in Meitan County, Guizhou, that began in the 1930s was further centralized under a state-owned farm and factory after 1949. Following the 1990s decline of the state-owned industry, the tea industry reemerged in a new form under a process of state-directed capitalist agrarian change in the early 2000s. Contemporary Meitan’s almost 500 independent tea processors market their products to the changing tastes of Chinese consumers. With an increased attention to tea “quality,” capitalist processors have had to take greater control over the labor process of farmers. Thus the industry has taken on a complex structure through a process of vertically integrating tea growers and processors, making use of a county tea producers association, dragonhead enterprises, specialized cooperatives, contract farming, and new property forms.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"213 - 231"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43416024","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}