{"title":"The Naked Barley Thorebygg and Norwegian Farmer’s Ale","authors":"Hans Olav Bråtå","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2045168","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2045168","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Although now extinct, the naked (i.e. hull-free) barley variety Thorebygg was once an additive grain used in the brewing of farmhouse ale in Norway between the seventeenth and mid-nineteenth centuries and possibly earlier. This paper uses the concept of fictive terroir, combining social and cultural factors with its natural properties, to show how it was used in brewing ale. These factors explain the historical cultivation of Thorebygg and its decline under industrialization from the mid-nineteenth century. Thorebygg was probably cultivated as early as the Middle Ages on swidden plots, and later also on fertile open farmland. Hulled barley was the principal form of grain used in brewing and small quantities of other grains, such as Thorebygg, were added to improve the quality of the ale in color, taste and strength.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"85 - 105"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43495833","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"“Frugality and Economy are Home Virtues”: Thrift in the Textual Space of the Nineteenth-century Recipe","authors":"Lindsay Middleton","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2045542","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2045542","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT In the nineteenth century, the ideology of thrift was pervasive in didactic nonfiction, which encouraged readers to engage with frugality as an economic and moral stance. Samuel Smiles’ Thrift (1875) emphasized the importance of thrift to individuals and society, positioning it within the domestic setting. To understand how thrift was enacted in the nineteenth-century home, this article examines the ideology of thrift in cookbooks and recipes. These writings sought to practically enable readers to thriftily engage with food, making the most of ingredients creatively and frugally. While scholarly attention that highlights ideological discourses within cookbooks focuses on the cultural discussions authors include around recipes, little attention has been paid to how ideologies are present within recipes themselves. This article applies a close literary and structural reading to recipes, arguing that cookery was “the handmaid of thrift” and that recipes were textual tools, enabling readers to incorporate thrift into their lives.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"270 - 289"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47756223","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Qaliyya: The Connections, Exclusions, and Silences of an Indian Ocean Stew","authors":"T. Hoogervorst","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2041356","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2041356","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This article traces an understudied stew known as qaliyya through the Indian Ocean littoral to show how foodways influenced each other over the centuries. It proposes an innovative focus on dishes, food names (“gastronyms”), and recipes as tools to reconstruct forgotten culinary connections. From the tenth century onwards, qaliyya recipes show up in Middle Eastern cookbooks. We encounter two basic preparations: meat or vegetables boiled and fried in its fat after the liquid has evaporated or fried and then simmered until tender. From early modern times, the dish circulated throughout the Indian Subcontinent, parts of Southeast Asia, coastal Africa, and along the reaches of the Volga and the Danube. In many regions, culinary politics have confined the once prestigious dish to a modest existence on the margins. Such exclusions and silences have broader implications to our understanding of food history and dishes that “didn’t make it.”","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"106 - 127"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-02-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41356789","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Of Crayfish, Rice, and Anxiety: Agricultural Modernization in Chongzhou, Sichuan","authors":"E. Yeh, Fan Li","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2038498","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2038498","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This essay examines the emergence of crayfish and crayfish rice production in Chongzhou, Sichuan as a product of China’s agrarian transition and at the conjuncture of several forms of food anxiety. To earn revenue, the Chongzhou government has encouraged the cultivation of crayfish. Once a local peasant food, crayfish has been rebranded as a luxury item and made a centerpiece of local placemaking efforts. However, Chongzhou is also the site of an Agricultural Functional Zone, and is designated as a site for grain agriculture, in response to the Chinese state’s longstanding anxieties about grain self-sufficiency. Thus, rice is grown together with the crayfish. To make it appealing, crayfish rice is marketed as high quality and ecologically friendly, responding to the state’s biopolitical concerns about the “quality” of the population, as well as to middle class consumers’ sense of distinction and their pervasive consumer anxieties about food safety and environmental pollution.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"232 - 253"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-02-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45968196","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Blood and Honey: Culinary Nationalism and Yugonostalgia in a Canadian City","authors":"Amanda Skocic, R. Nelson","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2021.2022393","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2021.2022393","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT For decades, the very same markers one used to identify national and ethnic belonging in the “homeland,” such as history, language, and ritual, have been the same indicators deployed in diaspora communities to demarcate their level of group identity both within the assimilatory, hegemonic, and new national identity (eg., “Canadian”), as well as against other ethnic minorities. Members of the Balkan diaspora in North America very much perform their Serb, Croatian, or Bosniak identities through the way they talk about food. But there exists a split in Balkan food identity which overlaps with a fundamental political identity: those who see, for example, Serb cuisine as unique tend to be proudly, nationalistically Serb, while those who see a common Balkan cuisine are more likely to identify with a federalist, shared Yugoslav past.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"56 - 77"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47259782","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Farming and Eating in an Indigenous Asian Borderland: Histories of Botany, Agriculture, and Food in the Chittagong Hill Tracts, East Bengal","authors":"Angma D. Jhala","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2026182","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2026182","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This article examines the botanical, agricultural and food history of the Chittagong Hill Tracts, which lie on the borders of India, east Bengal (now Bangladesh) and Burma (contemporary Myanmar), under British colonialism and postcolonial transnationalism. European administrators were intrigued by jhumming (swidden agriculture) and the botanical biodiversity of the region. The article examines jhum production and food history in the writings of British administrator scholars and colonial geographical surveys from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. It then delves into food cosmopolitanisms, particularly the influence of Bengali, Burmese and European dietary and culinary conventions in the royal kitchens of local “tribal” chiefs, the Chakma and Mong Rajas, reflecting how hybrid food traditions during the colonial Raj influenced indigenous forms of cuisine. Finally, it examines the preservation of indigenous cooking traditions by diasporic, immigrant communities, revealing the influence of memory, nostalgia, gender and ideas of home in this hybrid, multiethnic borderland.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"34 - 55"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45302542","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Transforming Pig’s Wash into Health Food: The Construction of Skimmed Milk Protein Powders","authors":"Lesley Steinitz","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2021.2010977","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2021.2010977","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT In the late 1890s, chemists devised industrial processes to manufacture milk protein powders, now a major fitness food category. These peculiar and flavorless inventions were made from skimmed milk waste from modernised dairies. This paper explores why manufacturers made them and why the British ate them, by examining what commentators and eaters wrote and read about them. The two leading brands were near-identical materially, but became understood differently. Purportedly, Plasmon was a scientifically-advanced proteinaceous muscularizing product while Sanatogen was a phosphorated nerve supplement which imbued intellect and willpower. Their positionings were shaped by the myth-making power of advertising, amplified by the power of celebrity testimonies and the authority of scientific experts, and tempered by press and consumer’ reactions. Scientific knowledge was used reductively, and was shaped by cultural values. Consumers were complicit in this framing: the technification of these white powders provided mechanisms for self-improvement. Consumers simply needed to swallow.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"9 1","pages":"290 - 323"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"60043257","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Acquired Tastes: Stories About the Origins of Modern Food","authors":"J. Rees","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2022.2021381","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2022.2021381","url":null,"abstract":"ways that airlines in general and Pan Am in particular changed the course of eating: hydroponics research to feed crews at refueling stations in the pacific; Pan Am’s service to the US government during World War II and the space race; the changes in cuisine wrought by transporting fresh produce by plane; and the airline’s role in food security operations during the Cold War. The book touches on Pan Am’s role as an effective “arm of state” (2) for the US government, but its strength is in its discussions of gastronomy and in-flight eating. The book is full of fascinating stories that make it highly readable and entertaining, especially because it takes a light touch to theoretical work on globalization. Individual chapters, particularly in the latter half of the book, would do well in an undergraduate classroom. There are many potential avenues of future research to which the book points: the relationships of airlines like Pan Am and the military in developing critical food technology; the experience of attendants who faced the airline’s discrimination; the move to increasingly outsourced catering and the massive strike by catering employees in the 1970s. As Evans notes in the conclusion, Pan Am nostalgia is on the rise. A Pan Am restaurant recreates the inflight experience on a Hollywood set for upwards of $200 a diner; another company sells expensive replicas of the airline’s iconic blue bag. This nostalgia, it seems, is not merely for a time of better airline food, but for a time when the US commanded the symbols of modernity, cosmopolitanism, and glamor. As Evans’s new book effectively shows, Pan Am helped create the “American century” but “simultaneously expose[d] its flaws” (5).","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"80 - 82"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42409744","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"From Kitchen Arabic to Recipes for Good Taste: Nation, Empire, and Race in Egyptian Cookbooks","authors":"Anny Gaul","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2021.2012869","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2021.2012869","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Between the 1880s and the 1950s, a new genre of cookbooks appeared in Egypt. Largely written by women, these texts addressed the housewives of Egypt’s expanding middle classes. This essay describes how the genre’s authors instructed women to nourish the nascent Egyptian nation. In prescribing specific flavors to notions of “good taste,” these cookbooks’ eclectic combinations of recipes oriented Egyptian readers towards Europe and the Arab East, rather than towards the rest of the African continent. This analysis situates these cookbooks within the overlapping spheres of Egyptian rule in Sudan, the British occupation of Egypt and Sudan, and anticolonial nationalism. It argues that studying gendered and domestic forms of labor, like cooking, can enrich our understandings of how national identity formation hinges on the construction of racial, ethnic, and class hierarchies. Cookbooks thus offer a unique perspective on the relationships between nation, empire, gender, and race.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"4 - 33"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48377016","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Food and Aviation in the Twentieth Century: The Pan American Ideal","authors":"Hannah Leblanc","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2021.2013006","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2021.2013006","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"8 1","pages":"78 - 80"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46837574","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}