Global food history最新文献_第2页

Introduction: Provisioning Politics and the Making of Imperial Food Industries 导言：供应政治与帝国食品工业的形成

Global food history Pub Date : 2024-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2024.2305559

Erika Rappaport, Elizabeth Schmidt

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Beer: A Global Journey through the Past and Present Beer: A Global Journey through the Past and Present . By John W. Arthur. New York: Oxford University Press, 2022. 294 pp. $24.95 hardcover. 啤酒：穿越古今的全球之旅啤酒：穿越古今的全球之旅》（Beer: A Global Journey through the Past and Present）。作者：约翰-W-阿瑟纽约：牛津大学出版社，2022 年。294 页。精装版售价 24.95 美元。

Global food history Pub Date : 2024-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2024.2300929

Malcolm Purinton

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Is Cane Sugar “Canadian”? The Disavowal of Global Lives and Lands within Canadian Sugar Marketing 甘蔗糖是 "加拿大的 "吗？加拿大糖业营销中对全球生活和土地的否认

Global food history Pub Date : 2023-11-15 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2023.2278391

D. Belisle

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The Contradictions of “Civilizing” Consumption: Colonial Wine and Race in Britain’s Nineteenth-Century Imperial Project “文明化”消费的矛盾:英国19世纪帝国计划中的殖民葡萄酒和种族

Global food history Pub Date : 2023-10-24 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2023.2269361

Chelsea Davis

{"title":"The Contradictions of “Civilizing” Consumption: Colonial Wine and Race in Britain’s Nineteenth-Century Imperial Project","authors":"Chelsea Davis","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2269361","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2269361","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACTThis article will consider the discourse of wine as a “civilizing tool” in Britain’s imperial project, specifically in South Australia and Cape Colony. Historically, wine was recollected as a symbol of Greco-Roman civility, reified as the lifeblood of Christ, romanticized as the superiority of Southern European regions, and reimagined as a promoter of nineteenth-century Victorian sensibility. Beyond moral “improvement,” wine was also seen as a method to improve physical health. The vine was depicted as a safe, stable, and highly civilized enterprise, with far-reaching consequences. In the violent spaces of wine farms and colonial canteens, this intersected with racialized conceptions of colonized persons needing to be “improved” (and ultimately, controlled) through wine consumption. The networks which connected the global temperance movement often crossed with colonial conversations on race, health, and consumption. The interest in policing consumption of indigenous populations combined with a cultural of paying workers in alcohol, illustrated that along racial lines, accessibility to this desired state of “civilization” was unattainable.KEYWORDS: Winecivilizing missionempireraceconsumption Notes1. “The Paris Exhibition,” 61.2. Bayly, Imperial Meridian.3. Regan-Lefebvre, Imperial Wine, 7.4. Magee and Thompson, Empire and Globalisation, 58.5. See Bourdieu, Distinction.6. Ibid., 6.7. Ludington, The Politics of Wine in Britain, 9.8. McIntyre, First Vintage, 8.9. Hannickel, Empire of Vines, 128.10. White, Blood of the Colony.11. Conklin, A Mission to Civilize, 1.12. See Regan-Lefebvre, Imperial Wine.13. Donald Denoon placed Australia and South Africa in a comparative context in his 1983 work, Settler Capitalism. While I do not compare South Africa and Australia with the four other settler capitalist “societies,” as Denoon does, I do chart their connections to the “British world” and broader “winegrowing world.” Unlike Denoon, who examines these settler societies within a field of “white studies,” this article employs a comparative approach to integrate perspectives of white and nonwhite historical actors involved across the empire. See Denoon, Settler Capitalism. For other comparative histories of South Africa and Australia, see Dunstan, Southern Worlds, Dane Kennedy, The Last Blank Spaces, and Etherington, Mapping Colonial Conquest.14. For examples of these historical comparisons, see “Australia Not Yet ‘Played Out,’” 170, “The British Wine Duties,” 2; and Lowcay, “Viticulture: Cape Colony and South Australia,” 42. Hahn, Viticulture in South Africa, NLSA, 22. “Report of the Select Committee on Improvement of the Wine Industry,” CCP 1/2/2/1/32-A.6 1884, WCARS,vii. Hardy, A Vigneron Abroad, 10. Letter No. 2: From Agent General Sir Charles Mills to Honourable Commissioner of Crown Lands and Public Works, November 21, 1883, in “Papers and Correspondence on the Subject of Development of the Wine Industry and the Improvement of Viticulture in the ","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"80 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135315715","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

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A Taste of Spain: Images of Rioja Wine in Britain and America (1890-1960) 品尝西班牙:里奥哈葡萄酒在英国和美国的形象(1890-1960)

Global food history Pub Date : 2023-10-23 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2023.2267002

Aritz Farwell, Ludger Mees

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The March of Empire: The Californian Quest for Avocados in Early-Twentieth Century Mexico 《帝国进军:20世纪早期墨西哥加利福尼亚人对鳄梨的探索

Global food history Pub Date : 2023-10-16 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2023.2266535

Viridiana Hernández Fernández

{"title":"The March of Empire: The Californian Quest for Avocados in Early-Twentieth Century Mexico","authors":"Viridiana Hernández Fernández","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2266535","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2266535","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACTAt the turn of the twentieth century, agricultural explorers from the United States Department of Agriculture, Californian farmers, and the University of California scientists created the agricultural giant that California is today by extracting plant diversity from the Global South and protecting the nascent agricultural industry from outside competition. I define this process as “U.S. agricultural imperialism.” This article analyzes how U.S. agricultural imperialism in early-twentieth-century Latin America gave rise to a lucrative avocado industry closely associated with the Californian landscapes and agricultural identity and disconnected the fruit from its biological and cultural origins in Mexico and Central America to protect local production. U.S. institutions, growers, and scientists developed a thriving industry in the Golden State based on the extraction of avocado germplasm from Latin America while simultaneously banning the introduction of actual Mexican avocados to avoid outside competition.KEYWORDS: Avocadoplant-breedingexplorersCaliforniaagricultural imperialism AcknowledgmentsI wish to show my appreciation to the scholars and students of the UC Davis Latin American History Workshop for their generous feedback in the early stages of writing this article. I would also like to thank Dr. Erika Rappaport, Dr. Jeffrey Pilcher, and Elizabeth Schmidt for helping me finalize the project and the anonymous readers’ gen erous comments. Their suggestions significantly enriched this piece. This research received grant support from the UC Davis Hemispheric Institute on the Americas, the Tinker Foundation, and the Consortium for History of Science, Technology, and Medicine.Notes1. Olmstead and Rhode, Creating Abundance, 223.2. Although it is unclear how the term “alligator pear” was used in the first place, scholars believe it was because of the fruit’s shell resemblance with the alligator’s skin and the avocado shape of a pear. In 1941, the American Pomological Society and the USDA approved the term “avocado” as the translation to the Náhuatl-origin word ahuácatl (aguacate in Spanish).3. Olmstead and Rhode, “A History of California Agriculture,” 21.4. For wages, land, and transportation costs in twentieth-century California’s agricultural system, see Olmstead and Rhode, “A History of California Agriculture”5. Conkin, A Revolution Down on the Farm; Cochrane, Development of American Agriculture; Fitzgerald, Every Farm a Factory; Sackman, Orange Empire; Stoll, The Fruits of Natural Advantage; Knight, Tropics of Hopes.6. Harris, Fruits of Eden; Stone, The Food Explorer; Gardner, American Agriculture in the Twentieth Century.7. Pauly, Fruits and Plains.8. Kloppenburg, First the Seed.9. Fullilove, The Profit of the Earth, 220.10. Stoll, The Fruits of Natural Advantage; Stoll, “Insects and Institutions;” Knight, Tropic of Hopes.11. Stoll, The Fruits of Natural Advantage; Knight, Tropic of Hopes.12. Kerr, “The Avocado Industry in Southern Califo","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"34 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136113615","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

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Menus from the Lotos Club in New York City 纽约莲花俱乐部的菜单

Global food history Pub Date : 2023-09-14 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2023.2256605

Paul Freedman, Nancy Johnson

{"title":"Menus from the Lotos Club in New York City","authors":"Paul Freedman, Nancy Johnson","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2256605","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2256605","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACTSeveral hundred menus from the Lotos Club have been preserved from the period 1870 to the present. They are from so-called “State Dinners” honoring important people. They show in unusual detail and over a considerable period of time the changing tastes in cuisine, from adherence to French haute cuisine standards to the current fashions such as local and seasonal. It is useful to look at the food served at institutions such as clubs because while slow to change (and often proud of their sometimes-odd culinary traditions), they reflect the shifts in American taste focused in a way that restaurants, which serve a more varied clientele, do not.KEYWORDS: American cuisineprivate clubsNew York CityMenusTestimonial Dinners Notes1. The food of London clubs has been considered in Black, A Room of His Own, 33–42; Eimerl, “London Clubland,” 14–15, 31–36. Particular attention has been given to the great Victorian chef Alexis Soyer, who reached the height of his fame as chef at the Reform Club from 1839 to 1850, Cowen, Relish; Brandon, The People’s Chef.2. Club sandwich: “Eccentric Celebrations.” All newspaper citations are from the database “America’s Historical Newspapers.” Crab Louis: Siemering, “Seafood on the American Menus.” 275.3. The Zodiac and Weda. two private dining clubs in New York, kept records of their several meals each year, from 1868 to 1928 for Zodiac and 1886–1955 for Weda. For the Zodiac, Records of the Zodiac, 1868–1916; Records of the Zodiac: Second Volume; Freedman, Harding, and Voigt, “Menus of the Zodiac Club,” 93–108. For the Weda Club, The Weda Club, and records of their dinners in the library of the New York Historical Society, Weda Papers, Dinner Scrapbooks I – V.4. Elderkin, A Brief History of the Lotos Club, 7–10.5. Curtis, Lotus-Eating, published in 1852, became an American classic. It consists of lyrical descriptions of summer idylls in Eastern locales such as the Catskill Mountains, Lake George and Newport.6. Johnson and Moskin, The Members of the Lotos Club, 13.7. Black, A Room of His Own, 88–146; Milne-Smith, London Clubland, 109–65. The club as an exclusively male space replaced the eighteenth-century salon, presided over by women, Thevoz, The Secret Life, 55–64; Siraud, “Du salon féminin au Gentlemen’s club.”8. Lejeune, The Gentlemen’s Clubs of London, 19.9. Darwin, British Clubs, 13.10. A mystery story by Dorothy Sayers, The Unpleasantness at the Bellona Club, turns on the delay in discovering that an elderly fixture of the Bellona had died in his usual chair and the consequent difficulty of determining the time of death. This is an enduring topic. In a review of a book about the Travellers Club, A. N. Wilson recalls that a member sitting at the long table in the Coffee Room (as the dining room there is called), died suddenly but quietly, a fact noticed only when the Stilton was passed around at the end of the meal, Wilson, “Home of Victorian Ghosts,” 12.11. The New York Herald, June 17, 1870, 3; Frank Leslie’s I","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"32 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134912870","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

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Magic of Olive Oil: Sex and Fluid Identities in the Premodern Mediterranean 橄榄油的魔力:前现代地中海的性与流动身份

Global food history Pub Date : 2023-09-05 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2023.2252315

Veronica Menaldi

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Food Waste and Sustainable Eating in Historical Perspective 历史视角下的食物浪费和可持续饮食

Global food history Pub Date : 2023-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2023.2258014

Eleanor Barnett, Katrina Moseley

{"title":"Food Waste and Sustainable Eating in Historical Perspective","authors":"Eleanor Barnett, Katrina Moseley","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2258014","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2258014","url":null,"abstract":"Today, food waste garners increasing attention in the headlines as calls for direct action on climate change intensify. A third of all the food we produce globally goes to waste, and if all this needlessly discarded produce were a country it would be the third greatest contributor to greenhouse gas emissions in the world. Scholars in the social sciences are beginning to explore in print the complex political, socio-economic, religious, and cultural reasons why food is wasted – be it lost in agricultural production, spoiled in transit, discarded at the retail stage, or wasted at home. Yet, very little has been written on this topic from a historical perspective. We still know surprisingly little about the ways in which historical actors thought about food waste, and how they reused, recycled, and disposed of it. Based on a selection of the papers presented at a conference at the University of Cambridge in 2019, this special issue highlights the potential of food waste as a subfield of historical research and encourages its further study. The five articles that follow shed light on the topic from a range of thematic and temporal perspectives, drawing on histories of visual and material culture, scientific experiment, and didactic nonfiction. As the authors demonstrate, practices around food waste – how and why people wasted food, preserved it, or recycled it into new dishes and products – fluctuated over the long epoch from the early modern period to the early twentieth century, in ways that reveal much more about the societies of the past: new moral values, socio-economic divisions, sources of knowledge, and gendered hierarchies. The collection begins with Simon Werrett’s study of thrifty recipes in early modern England, an essay that draws out the important similarities between Isaac Newton’s experiments using glass prisms to refract light and Anne Shackleford’s culinary advice that candied fruit juice should be left upon glass on a windowsill to be sun-dried. Experimental recipes performed by cooks and natural philosophers were seen as “part of the same enterprise” in this period. Both scientists and housewives experimented by “putting together what was at hand to create something new.” However, as Werrett shows, thrifty kitchen experiments performed by women such as Shackleford were gradually written out of the emerging realm of natural philosophy, with consequences for women’s place in what would later be termed “science.” By the nineteenth century, the practices of culinary and scientific experimentation were wrenched apart by ideas about the public and the private. An anecdote recounted in this essay provides the inspiration for our cover image, by the journal’s artist Roxane van Beek. The natural philosopher Robert Boyle described an experiment with an egg in which he observed tiny light refractions visible in the froth of the egg white, thus illustrating a moment of discovery and re-seeing with wonder what we now take for granted. Amanda H","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"64 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134968358","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

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The History of Rioja Wine: Tradition and Invention. 里奥哈葡萄酒的历史:传统与发明。

Global food history Pub Date : 2023-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/20549547.2023.2257577

Chelsea Davis

{"title":"The History of Rioja Wine: Tradition and Invention.","authors":"Chelsea Davis","doi":"10.1080/20549547.2023.2257577","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20549547.2023.2257577","url":null,"abstract":"shopping venues. Accessible empire wines suited these trends. In this milieu, Australian producers, for example, demonstrated a self-confidence grounded in their embrace of new methods and in their supposed entrepreneurship and superiority over native Australians, ignoring the longer history of dispossession and state sponsorship. “They certainly would not best the French by trying to sell tradition, but they could portray their industry as clean, modern, and sophisticated” (223). By the 1990s, Australian wines became favorites with a broader swathe of British consumers, while South Africa – having ended apartheid – and New Zealand – having left behind an influential temperance movement – increasingly made their way into British supermarkets. Given this book’s coverage of three colonies (plus a single chapter discussing wine in India, Cyprus, Malta, and Canada), it is not surprising that the author does not bore down on certain production details. For example, there is no sense of the amount of acreage cultivated for wine, the volume of exports, or the challenges of farming grapes in drier climates. Moreover, while Regan-Lefebvre briefly discusses these nations’ origins under settler colonialism in chapter one and touches on issues surrounding racialized labor, she does little more to analyze the dispossession of Indigenous peoples or to contemplate the ongoing processes of settler colonialism and their relation to the wine industry. Imperial Wine offers graceful prose and deep archival research, although the author’s trip to South African archives was stymied by the pandemic. The bibliography identifies archives in Australia, Canada, and the United States, but it also reveals that Regan-Lefebvre draws most extensively on resources in the United Kingdom, reflecting her effort to put the empire and its intersecting civilizing and capitalist missions at the forefront. In doing so, she reminds us of how historical phenomena developed across the intersecting planes of the local, the national, and the global. Using a single commodity, Imperial Wine effectively conveys the profound, often unexpected power of imperial trade to transform the metropole and colony alike.","PeriodicalId":92780,"journal":{"name":"Global food history","volume":"25 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134968526","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

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