Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice最新文献

{"title":"E-Textile Design through the Lens of Affordance","authors":"Amy Chen, J. Tan, Philip Henry","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1935110","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1935110","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT E-textiles design integrates materials not usually native to textile design e.g. conductive yarns and optical fibers. E-textiles themselves are soft systems; a computational composite made up of fluid and rigid materials, each component essential to the functionality of the e-textile. The making process represents another complex system. The process of integrating electronics and textiles requires that the designer negotiates and unifies the properties of tools, materials, and manual and machine enabled processes. E-textile designers leverage the affordances of unconventional materials to enable new functional and aesthetic potential while working within the constraints of different aspects of the e-textiles system; the tools, materials, and the requirements of electronics. This paper presents a discussion on affordance in e-textile design, drawing from literature detailing e-textile design processes and the author’s practice. Affordance offers a new perspective in understanding the relationship between aspects of the e-textile design process. This paper focuses on the affordances of textile tools whilst also considering new affordances provided by e-textiles materials, and affordances and constraints in material manipulation. In the analysis of textiles tools, four key affordances that impact on e-textiles design were identified: design complexity, manual intervention, automation and tactile feedback. These exist to a greater or lesser degree, depending on the tool. Manual intervention, tactile feedback and design complexity are particularly beneficial for novel e-textile design, while automation can be problematic in e-textiles development since it can prevent the designer from enacting new techniques. Although the beneficial affordances are seldomly found together, there are examples of textiles tools that possess these affordances. Nevertheless, there remains a need for more tools that possess these affordances to allow for novel e-textiles development in the future.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"26 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125347340","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Soft Systems Special Issue Editorial","authors":"Ann B. Toomey, Elaine Igoe, Amy Winters, Sara Robertson, Elif Ozden-Yenigun","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1936953","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1936953","url":null,"abstract":"This special issue probes the practice of textiles and material-led researchers from both methodological and applied definitions of “soft systems.” In organisational management, “soft systems methodology” (SSM) has been used for over thirty years in the analysis of complex situations where diverse viewpoints are held across a diverse group of stakeholders and the “problem” is undefined (Checkland 2000). SSM recognises flux as the only state of being and cautions against the solidification of elements of that flux as “situations, problems or issues.” Rather it suggests that social reality is continuously, socially constructed and that individuals can hold and express differing perceptions of that ever-changing social reality at any one time. The focus on ambivalent individuality and subjectivity within a flux or “liquid” paradigm of modernity (Bauman 2000) invites questions surrounding the role of materials in lived experience that are key to theories of New Materialism and Posthumanism. Concurrent explorations and integrations of technological, scientific, design and craft processes within textile and material-led systems avoid ontological permanence and move away from any preconceived understandings of textiles, fabric or cloth to examples of radical “textilic” practice (Igoe 2021). Diverse and interdisciplinary practices that are characterised by non-linear dynamics and “simplexity” (Kluger 2007) expose our relationally networked and liquid state and transcend the boundaries of material outcomes. Jo ur na lo f Te xt ile D es ig n R es ea rc h an d P ra ct ic e","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"39 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129235144","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Tension and Materiality in a Textile System; A Puppetry Perspective","authors":"Sabrina Recoules Quang","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1923201","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1923201","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The paper seeks to develop complementary strands of research and development through a puppetry perspective for designing with postdigital textile and soft material systems. It draws from the puppetry approach to designing and performing with different materialities. The paper analyses how the tensions present in a puppet system provoke uncanny relationships and use the concepts of “double vision” and “breathed stillness” to give a puppetry perspective on textiles in “textasis”. From this point of view, it reviews alternative design methodologies already developed by material researchers to produce new textile materials and begins to trace a new framework for designers engaging with postdigital materials. This paper proposes a foundation to develop new material qualities within textiles eliciting puppet making as a design method for bringing forth a world of interconnected and ambiguous agencies in a textile system in order to generate new forms of nonverbal communication with our environment.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"75 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125500761","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"“Vibrant Wearables”: Material Encounters with the Body as a Soft System","authors":"Vasiliki Tsaknaki, Karey Helms, Marie Louise Juul Søndergaard, Marianela Ciolfi Felice","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1923202","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1923202","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract As new materials become available for textile and interaction designers, it is crucial that we develop an understanding of the lived experiences of such materials and explore meaningful contexts for their development. In this paper, we engage with systems in which bodies as materials and materials as bodies constitute an assemblage of vitalities in constant flux with one another. In particular, we address how such systems in their interactions with (non)human bodies blur boundaries between inside and outside the body, and between human and machine, acting as soft systems. Drawing on our first-person, design-led research, we present three design explorations of soft systems that deeply engage with the body: Breathing Wings, Fiddling Necklaces and Menarche Bits. We analyze how the three projects contribute towards what we conceptualize as “vibrant wearables”: wearables that through their material vibrancy surface design qualities of leakiness, characterized by a multi-directionality of “spilling over,” ongoingness, which attends to non-linear temporalities and cycles of life and death, and mutuality that emphasizes the interdependency, and becoming, of vibrant encounters. These three design qualities all conceptually trouble boundaries of bodies and materials and are practical resources for designers and researchers working with the body in/as a soft system. Our work offers concrete examples of how to work with material vibrancy, which is particularly relevant to new materialist discourses in textile, fashion and interaction design. We argue for the generativity of these design qualities for other designers and researchers aiming to elevate materials and soft systems in interactions with bodies. Moreover, we contribute towards design research that conceptually and materially troubles the boundaries of the body, and we argue for attending to the material power of (non)human bodies as a soft system.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"7 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124466248","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Materialising Data Feminism – How Textile Designers Are Using Materials to Explore Data Experience","authors":"Marion H. A. Lean","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1928987","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1928987","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In our increasingly technology driven world, many human experiences are at risk of falling into the hands of Big Tech who trade, manipulate and design with our data. Catherine Ignacio and Lauren F Klein (2020) propose data feminism as a set of considerations to challenge power and injustices using data science practices. The work of textile designers can also support critical thinking by acknowledging alternative forms of knowledge, experience and activism. Textile designers collect, organise, analyse and present data in formats and contexts which engage and elevate people and stories from different communities. This paper explores the ways that textile designers experimenting with data experience embody the proposed suggestions to tackle issues and challenge systems of oppression. Textile design artefacts can inspire and provoke considerations for data ethics by enabling engagement with information which supports critical thinking. This paper demonstrates the principles of data feminism using examples of contemporary textile practitioners to illustrate how data representation is being designed to evoke emotional response, to communicate meaning and to consider alternative forms of knowledge production. Engaging material artefacts to explore ethical implications of data products is proposed as an application for textile design viewed through the lens of data feminism. This paper argues from the perspective of textile designers, for textile and material thinking be considered as valid methodologies to support dialogue used to challenge injustices and oppression perpetuated through data experience. This paper contributes to textile design research and practice which is expanding the traditional space for textile and material thinking to engage science and technology. Using textile practice to enable a connection and through intersectional feminist framing, a position is established for textile designers to challenge issues found in data science. This paper contributes to the interpretations of soft systems by introducing ways that designers are using materials to reconceptualise and question the status quo of engagement with the digital world. Engaging textile design practices can support critical thinking on data ethics; this paper contributes to research which strengthens the case and scope for textile design and explores relevant and timely issues facing society today.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"9 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134111021","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Embroidered Inflatables: Exploring Sample Making in Research through Design","authors":"Bruna Goveia da Rocha, O. Tomico, D. Tetteroo, Kristina Andersen, P. Markopoulos","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1885586","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1885586","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper reflects on the experience of sample making to develop interactive materials. Sample making is a way to explore possibilities related to different materials techniques. In recent years design research has put an increasing emphasis on making as a mode of exploration, which in turn has made such exploration an increasingly popular and effective design research approach. However, sample making is a messy and complex process that is hard to document and communicate. To mitigate this, design researchers typically report their journeys from the perspective of their success, retroactively editing out or reducing the accounts of experiments that did not directly contribute to their goal. Although it is a useful way to of contextualizing a design process, it can contribute to a loss of richness and complexity of the work done along the way. Samples can be seen as instantiations of socio-techno systems of production, which means that they can be looked at from different perspectives and can potentially become the starting points of new design explorations. In recognition of this quality, we aim to investigate ways that samples can be appropriated in future journeys. To do so, we analyzed and reflected on the sample making process of the Embroidered Inflatables as a design case. The project resulted in 27 samples that explored distinct challenges related to designing actuators for soft wearables through the combination of silicone casting and embroidery techniques. To explore the potential of sample appropriation, we invited a fashion designer to a creative session that analyzed these samples from her personal perspective to identify new design directions. We detail the design process, reflect on our sample making experience and present strategies to support us in the process of reevaluating and appropriating samples.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"9 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-03-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128696875","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Textilisation of Rubble as an Embodied Reflection on the Site-Specific Architectural Memory of Les Petites Affiches","authors":"Anna Saint Pierre, A. Mossé, J. Bassereau","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2020.1853378","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2020.1853378","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Les Petites Affiches refers to a rehabilitation project by the architectural agency SCAU used as a key site of experimentation for a practice-based and design-led PhD project fully integrated into the daily life of the agency. Based on a textile design approach, this paper explores the idea of textilisation as means of developing new modes of transmission based on the in situ transformation of rubble as an alternative to “tabula rasa” or identical restoration. First reviewing different approaches dealing with architectural heritage in the light of the Anthropocene context, the paper then discusses different meanings of the concept of textilisation before clarifying how rubble from Les Petites Affiches is conceptually and materially integrated in a new architectural project in the form of pigments, fabrics or floor surfaces. In this context, the trans-materialized memory of the past building becomes one of the main components of the future edifice. In this case, 111.39 kg of rubble from, the Parisian building subject to rehabilitation (2017–2018). The experiment—developed during an on-site-residency—focus on how such rubble could be appropriated through textile processes to give life to new architectural surfaces. For example, some fragments were ground and sieved to achieve the fine grain of a pigment before being mixed with a binder. The ink obtained, filled with the site’s history, was printed on textile using silk-screen methods. Bringing together two materials: textile and stone as a means of revealing the different strata of the site, the outcomes of this process offers the occasion to discuss the potential of conceiving and materialising an architecture informed by its past as well as various approaches to textilisation.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"33 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121782226","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Weave Structure Development to Improve the Current Design Capability for Double Cloth Fabrication via Digital Jacquard Weaving","authors":"Ken Ri Kim, Thomas P. Triebs","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2020.1841365","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2020.1841365","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This study aims to improve the current design capability for double cloth fabrication by exploring weave structures via digital Jacquard weaving. New double cloth weave structures are developed as follows. First, a basic plain weave structure is employed to explore a traditional double cloth weaving technique via digital Jacquard weaving. The core principle lies in a weave structure design that interweaves several sets of warps and wefts into separate layers. Second, based on the plain weave experiment result, a feasible weave structure for double cloth fabrication is expanded to a sateen to investigate its possibility to realize complex pictorial images on both sides of a fabric. As a sateen weave can generate varied lengths of thread floats in a stable condition, the weave structure is not only capable of generating delicate details of an image, but it also maintains an appropriate structural balance in production. Therefore, the basic form is developed into a shaded weave structure series to align with complex images in a double cloth format. To verify the relevance of the newly developed weave structures, it is essential to produce an actual Jacquard sample. This study explains the details of double cloth weave structure experiments necessary to improve the design capability via digital Jacquard weaving.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-11-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127024236","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Wearing Well-Being: Co-Creative and Textile-Based Approaches to Enhancing Palliative Care","authors":"K. Cobb, Kendra Lapolla","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2019.1633898","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2019.1633898","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Few forms of human behavior are more pervasive than the use of textiles. As shelter and clothing, textile products play a vital role in meeting basic human needs. Clothes are imbued with memories, intertwined with our histories and identities, interwoven into the “fabric of our lives.” In late-stage eldercare/assisted living scenarios, care priorities often shift from curative measures to palliative care for the relief of pain, symptoms and emotional stress. Palliative care is available at any stage of an illness. The purpose of this exploratory creative study is to better understand opportunities applying co-creative design approaches in late-stage eldercare through the development of wearable narratives. We develop a form of garment therapy, imprinted with a unique textile print that is visual, tactile and empowering to the user/creator. The design researchers adopted context mapping as a method to engage participants in creative, idea generating activities to help inform textile design processes. Context mapping empowers participants by allowing them to make collaged artefacts and then tell stories about what they have made. As designers, we seek to delineate textiles as a therapeutic modality in its own right, a form of expression that can be used as a therapeutic intervention to foster well-being. We view this creative design exploration as an entry point into broader interdisciplinary opportunities. In this way, the project aligns with emerging models that attempt to address important societal and cultural problems through practice, by design.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"7 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121767033","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Digital Distortion Through Co-creation","authors":"Amanda T. Smith, Rachelle Moore","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1524088","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1524088","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Co-creation is changing the way that the end-user and the manufacturing knitting industry engage with design of knitted products. This is in part due to the change in technological interfaces and capabilities but also due to the knitting technology becoming more available through open source portals and designers having gained a greater understanding of what knitted technologies such as seamless knitting—can do. The technological capabilities of seamless knit have been designed to use a traditional body shape that dictates a recognized silhouette during the development of outputs. Through creative practice this paper discovers alternative design possibilities when the technology is hacked to distort this archetypal body shape; new design outputs and textiles emerge. New methodologies for textile design approaches are also discussed through this article when new methods of creation which ignore the pre-programmed body form are introduced, and therefore new ways of discussing design development processes are revealed. This practice-led research focuses on the investigation of non-conventional body shapes utilizing the Wholegarment® knitwear technology as a material essential to the design development process. The design methodology developed combines the machine and designers as co-creators throughout the practice; resulting in distortion of mass manufactured silhouettes. This approach extends beyond the normal boundaries set by the digital interface generating possibilities for extreme knitted textile forms. This article outlines through practice some of the technological issues to overcome before full integration of co-creation by the end-user would be possible using seamless knit technology.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"50 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134215998","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}