Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice最新文献

{"title":"Knitted Textiles, Sportsclothes and the Development of London Wholesale Couture: 1920–1939","authors":"Liz Tregenza","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2024.2316963","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2024.2316963","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"36 4","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140223841","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Textile Design Theory in the Making by Elaine Igoe","authors":"S. Andrew","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2023.2241788","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2023.2241788","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"118 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-08-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127299242","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Feeling Well: Using the Augmented Touch of E-Textiles to Embody Emotion and Environment as a “Self-Health” Intervention for Female Student Wellbeing","authors":"Janet Coulter","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2023.2242165","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2023.2242165","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract COVID-19 led to unprecedented levels of isolation for students, and the withdrawal of social support mechanisms left them detached from their networks. This significantly affected their mental health, with more female than male students reporting increased anxiety. Unparalleled restrictions in accessing outdoor environments led to a sense of nature-deficit which further compounded their stress. As learning off-campus becomes the new social norm, students are seeking alternative ways to self-support their emotional wellbeing. This paper explores how students can take a “self-health” approach by drawing upon the restorative powers of nature as a coping mechanism. It considers individuals’ relationships between their personal environments and somatosensory experiences through the medium of e-textiles. The research is underpinned by Attention Restoration Theory and Stress Reduction Theory. Utilising a bricolage methodology it extends the author’s previous research in this field and explores these theories through textile-led, practice-based research. It describes the design of 3 crafted e-textile concepts to explore alternative approaches to self-managing student mental wellbeing. The concepts investigated ways that students could connect virtually with nature through e-textiles using affective touch and haptic-mnemonics to embody natural environments. The textiles sensed physiological biomarkers related to un-noticed stress and created augmented cues which triggered felt experiences and tactile memories. These moderated the biomarkers and educed a sense of calm. The concepts demonstrated the potential to integrate with everyday clothing and create opportunities for students to enhance awareness and management of their mental wellbeing. The mixed-methods research was evaluated through a focus group. The results affirmed that the concepts had technology and social value and were effective in moderating stress by creating place-attachment. The paper concludes that commingling opportunities for visual, virtual and embodied feedback through augmented and affective touch creates a “somato-haptic nexus” which offers a complementary model of early intervention for self-supported student wellbeing.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"73 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115924872","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Designing In-Between: Innovation from Field to Fabric","authors":"Lynn-Sayers McHattie, Lindsey Stewart Sherrod","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2023.2228091","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2023.2228091","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In this article we present the reflective and reflexive accounts of two research and textile practitioners designing in-between—whereby encounters between human and the more-than-human—shape textile design practice as an ongoing and relational connection with soil, land and landscape. From selectively breeding a flock of Shetland sheep for fleece to designing for decomposition to support soil health; both accounts articulate the lived and felt experience through: place and the stewardship of land; the importance of terrain; transparency and traceability; the pursuit of [re]generative material cycles; and innovation from field to fabric. As practitioners, we frame a [re]positioning of dominant discourses through the lens of environmental sustainability and ecological renewal. We locate more-than-human as an interconnected matrix of inter- and intra-dependencies, which includes the wisdom of nature within the wider ecology. This extends to local and vernacular materials including the ritualistic and performative qualities of decomposition and specifically to the recuperation of perceptions around the value of wool both economically and environmentally. We go on to advocate for the radical [re]imagining of production cycles within the textile industry broadly conceived and conclude with a call to designers to consider alternative starting points—innovation from field to fabric—embodied within the more-than-human rubric. In so doing, we [re]consider how a full set of contributors—from sheep to soil microorganisms—can [re]position, [re]define and [re]imagine existing textile production cycles.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"15 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125428920","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A Visual Exchange of Everyday History, a Creative Exploration to Build Contextual Awareness within Parallel Learning Communities","authors":"Kate Farley, Z. Hillyard","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2023.2242172","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2023.2242172","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This practitioner interview captures and analyses dialogue between two academic staff at different higher education institutions in the United Kingdom (UK), as a trial project to identify contemporary relationships with textile design history and contemporary culture. The project was established with the ambition to identify new strategies for student community learning in relation to contextual studies. The separate, but similar, lecture series the two academics present at their respective institutions aim to introduce design styles from 1900 to 2000, evolved from one programme devised when the two academics previously worked together. The project was developed through discussions concerning post-pandemic hybrid teaching and addressed concerns about the often-passive response to theoretical content and the challenge of developing a narrative that reflects the plurality of textile design histories as multiple cultural histories rather than one linear trajectory. By identifying topics arising in the lectures in their own everyday lives and locations, the two academics considered ways in which the students could be encouraged to make stronger connections for themselves with political and cultural discussions, to build greater critical skills and awareness. Inspired by Berger and Christie’s (1999), “I Send You This Cadmium Red: A Correspondence,” but with digital correspondence replacing letters in the post, the task was to seek out contemporary images that would narrate an element from each design history lecture, connecting heritage with the modern day. Building a shared digital image and narrative as the lecture series progressed, the exchanges inspired each academic to see the link to history from the correspondent’s viewpoint, while suggesting alternative ways of addressing the task in future weeks. The challenge proved to be invigorating and stimulating, establishing new pedagogy to integrating the past and present. The project and insights articulated through this article provide a model for shared academic practice that could be conducted over a longer timeframe or expanded to a larger collaborative group context. Both options provide collegiate support for individual curricular transformation and contribute towards enhancement surrounding decolonising the curriculum.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"61 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126795535","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Using E-Textiles to Challenge Gender Perceptions in STEM, Design and Career Aspirations of Secondary School Students","authors":"Janet Coulter","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2023.2209960","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2023.2209960","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract STEM subjects in the secondary school curriculum are largely the domain of boys, and the creative arts subjects are predominantly the territory of girls. This disparity permeates into higher education and leads to a gender imbalance in the workforce. This paper investigates issues of gender bias in the secondary school curriculum and explores student perceptions and self-efficacy for future academic success. Using the medium of electronic textiles (e-textiles) the research considers if multidisciplinary and co-design approaches to teaching could create a more gender-equitable environment, bring about a mindset shift in students’ gender perceptions, and alter their perspectives for future university choices. A mixed-gender group of 32 secondary school students from different subject disciplines across science, technology and art and design took part in a year-long study. They were given opportunities to work on a co-design project which sought to break down barriers between subject disciplines and challenge stereotypical perceptions of the “type” and gender of student in each discipline. Students were introduced to an e-textiles project called “ElectroTex” which sought to challenge the current hidden-gendered curriculum. It drew upon curriculum topics from physics, computing, technology and art and design. The research was underpinned by overlapping frameworks of Social Cognitive Theory and Value Expectancy Theory. A mixed methodology approach comprising Action Research and Co-design was sandwiched between pre- and post-project questionnaires which determined how students’ perceptions had altered as a result of the project. The experiential learning demonstrated that students were able to connect science with design and harness the value of their collaborative knowledge by applying it to real life situations. The outcomes show that a multidisciplinary approach to learning can re-frame students’ perspectives on gender in the curriculum, empower them to consider design and science in mutually beneficial contexts, and raise their aspirations for future success.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"41 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129063456","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Collaborating with a Scottish Heritage Brand towards Enhancing and Preserving Sustainable Artisan Hand-Weaving Practices through a Knowledge Transfer Partnership","authors":"J. Steed, Karen Cross, Beth Wilson","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2023.2234650","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2023.2234650","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper discusses a Knowledge Transfer Project (KTP) with a global Scottish heritage brand to develop a year-round sustainable business model through a design-led approach to new product innovation that improves their sustainability credentials. Sustainability in textile production is under increasing scrutiny from the media, governments, regulators, and consumers, all demanding transparency in the supply chain. The company has an excellent track record of sustainable employment in rural communities and sought through the project to improve their production processes and waste output. Sustainability is a vast topic, where collaboration can help to address these key challenges. The company manages an artisan hand-weaving manufacturing system where yarn production and fabric finishing are regulated by the 1993 Harris Tweed Act of Parliament that protects and restricts production to the Outer Hebrides. The success or failure of the Harris Tweed® industry directly impacts the wider economy of the Outer Hebrides, which is considered “remote, rural, fragile” by UK and Scottish governments and their economic development agencies. The paper describes how academic/business collaboration can positively encourage innovation and help reposition businesses within a changing economic and sustainable landscape that explores these new opportunities. The paper reflects on how KTPs are a mechanism with mutual benefits, where pooling individual knowledge and resources can develop strong, sustainable, and authentic relationships that can provide tangible impacts of new knowledge generation and application within a scholarly and research context that can be clearly aligned to notions of bringing value to the sector, users, and the curriculum.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"12 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116451916","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Broken Butterfly Wings: Exploring the Role of Textile Blends in the Circular Economy for Recycling and Disassembly","authors":"C. Hall, Laetitia Forst, K. Goldsworthy, R. Earley","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2023.2208929","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2023.2208929","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In the context of a transition to a more sustainable fashion and textile industry, blended textiles (materials where two or more different resources are combined) are a major issue. These are described as “monstrous hybrids” and used to create “Frankenstein products” that are difficult to recover and recycle. The circular economy champions mono-materiality. It asks that technical and biological materials are kept in separate cycles, as shown in the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s “butterfly model”; named because of its two wing-like sides. But in reality, materials are mixed in most of the textiles that surround us, and fully mono-material design is unrealistic in many cases. The butterfly wings are broken. This paper explores the various ways textile designers make blended textiles and acknowledges their role and creativity when providing solutions for aesthetic and technical requirements. The study draws on the first two authors’ PhD practice research that explored these issues from complementary re-active and pro-active approaches. Both carried out at the University of the Arts London, one project investigated Textile Design for Disassembly and the other Design for Recycling Knitwear. Using an after-action review approach, joint insights from both projects are presented. The paper investigates blending across three themes: hierarchy, technique and fibre type. It focuses on why these themes are relevant to designers and explores their different levels of complexity, before demonstrating how multiple perspectives are necessary to address the complex and systemic issues tied to blend recyclability. The paper concludes that blending and recovery are not mutually exclusive and that blended textiles can, with forethought, form part of the circular economy.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"19 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133078438","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Resilience, Resourcefulness and Creativity: Learning from the Diversification of Guatemalan Artisans during the Pandemic to Sustain Textile Traditions","authors":"Anna Piper, K. Townsend, L. Jabur","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2023.2212515","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2023.2212515","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Coronavirus detrimentally impacted textile craft production and the income of indigenous artisans, including those working in the Lake Atitlán area. The article focuses on how five enterprises diversified their entrepreneurial practices and actioned strategies to support their communities during the crisis. Interviews with host textile companies based in Guatemala, the US and UK were conducted to inform case studies documenting the artisans’ experiences, the pandemic response and implications for the long-term effects on the sector. The research highlights the creative resilience of the artisans; how regional lockdowns restricting the transport of materials and provisions, led to a regional sharing economy. The crisis highlighted the advantages of home-working, belonging to co-operatives and the benefits of partnerships with NGOs for accessing essential resources, income and routes to market. Despite the loss of local income streams, engagement with and investment in digital platforms opened up new communication and sales channels, enabling artisans to maintain revenue.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"15 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128345197","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Thinking with My Hands: Embodied Cognition in Practice","authors":"Faye Power","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2023.2226970","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2023.2226970","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The act of reflection is often considered to be one of the conscious mind – a cognitive act reflecting on one’s lived experience. By adopting principles of reflection defined by Donald Schön in 1983 as reflection-in and reflection-on action, this positioning paper attempts to develop a new methodology for examining and reinterpreting the embodied nature of material reflective thinking. The practice discussed responds to and reinterprets walking acts through methods of stitching-in and stitching-on action. The stitched mark acts as a line that considers concepts of wandering minds, wandering bodies and embodied cognition (Candy 2020). Correlations of mind and body wandering through physical and metaphorical space will be drawn on and considered in the context of material thinking and tacit and haptic knowledge. Schön (1983:73) asks the question, ‘In practice of various kinds, what form does reflection-in-action take?’, through this paper I intend to explore what critical-reflective-creative-thinking looks like in a textile practice and examine how the moment of making (stitching/walking) offers opportunities for critical-reflective-creative-thinking with practice.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"24 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125853397","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}