Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice最新文献

{"title":"Material Translation: Validation and Visualization as Transdisciplinary Methods for Textile Design and Materials Science in the Circular Bioeconomy","authors":"Miriam Ribul, Hanna de la Motte","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1467206","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1467206","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper presents a textile design and materials science collaboration during two design residencies in a materials science laboratory for regenerated cellulose research. The first residency evidenced that both disciplines are connected through a materials practice in communication and production of materials. This paper presents the aims of design and scientific research in materials experimentation and the scale of materials in each discipline. The cross-disciplinary collaboration developed transdisciplinary methods for textile design and materials science towards circularity of materials in a bioeconomy. A model for material affinity highlights these two new approaches between the design vision of the textiles designer and scientific method in materials science: validation and visualization. The collaboration led to establishing cellulose-based films as a process that can be made in both the design studio and the science laboratory. This paper presents how textile design prototyping in the materials science laboratory during the second residency was informed by scientific method in a transdisciplinary method of validation. Scientific communication of research is here presented as adopting visualization methods from design. Translation is presented as a term for the design-science material experiments taking place in the science laboratory in the collaboration between the authors. Improved communication between technical scientists and textile designers is needed to achieve circularity of regenerated cellulose materials in the emerging bioeconomy. This paper addresses translation as a process taking place during textile design residencies in the material science laboratory. The material experiments improved cross-disciplinary communication at the convergence of scientific method, design vision, visualization and validation processes.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"43 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133053191","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Laser Shibori: A Digital Moulding Technique Supporting Circular Textile Design in Three Dimensions","authors":"Laura Morgan, F. Kane, J. Tyrer, Jinsong Shen","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1493836","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1493836","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper considers the potential for digital laser technology to facilitate sustainable innovation in the field of textile design and manufacture, enabling transition towards a circular economy. Using recent design research as a case study, it discusses a newly developed Laser Shibori technique and its significance in relation to circularity. Laser Shibori describes a digital moulding technique for three-dimensional surface design and sustainable textile finishing that can be used to design accurate surface architectures for synthetic textiles. Using the photothermal energy of a CO2 laser, the method combines two heat dependent processes: heat setting and textile colouration, resulting in an effect akin to shibori. Unlike the traditional craft practice, Laser Shibori offers precise digital control, repeatability and a unique aesthetic. The study demonstrated the benefit of interdisciplinary research, synthesising design and science to support sustainable material innovation. The synthesis of material science and creative design practice proved essential in developing the laser technique and created a platform for material innovation beyond creativity as discussed through potential functional application ideas and sustainability benefits. The methods described in this paper provide a system to control three-dimensional effects through controlled tension and targeted laser irradiation. The use of laser technology to create three-dimensional textile forms presents processing advantages over traditional methods: the laser does not require physical moulds or complicated set up and offers ease of pattern change through digital generation of designs. The laser process negates requirement for additional materials, offering reversible surface design effects to facilitate ease of recovery at end of primary use, thus complimenting a circular textile lifecycle in three dimensions: through efficiency, agility and recovery.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"58 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127973054","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Sensory Design for Dementia Care – The Benefits of Textiles","authors":"A. Jakob, Lesley Collier","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1449078","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1449078","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The journal article discusses the role of textiles in facilitating sensory enriched environments and meaningful occupation for people living with dementia. It is based on recent interdisciplinary research, a collaboration between design and healthcare, that investigated the provision of multi-sensory experience for people with dementia living in care-homes, particularly the quality and design of Multi-Sensory Environments (MSEs). Through an ethnographic study this investigation unveiled significant design deficiencies of existing facilities in UK care-homes and profound lack of information amongst care professionals and care givers. The absence of textiles and its appropriate use was noticeable. From this research essential design criteria emerged which informed the development of initial design recommendations for setting up MSEs tailored to the specific needs of people living with dementia and their carers. Further, the article discusses the benefits of employing textiles in dementia care – either for occupation or within the environment. Sensorial qualities and psychological benefits are highlighted as well as the potential of applying advanced textile technologies. Further work is suggested regarding three aspects: proof-of-concept and prototyping implementing the developed design recommendations for sensory enhanced spaces to establish more evidence from end-user feedback as requested by stakeholders; investigating ways of how to achieve sustainable impact through adapting participatory design methods and conveying design skills and knowledge to care practitioners; exploring the potential of textiles and advanced textile technology for design for dementia.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"20 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2017-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126782043","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Face-ing Collaboration: A Meditation on the Faces of Circular Textile Research","authors":"R. Earley, R. Hornbuckle","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1478703","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1478703","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract To achieve a circular textile industry – one that has closed complex resource loops at all stages of the lifecycle – collaboration is required between diverse stakeholders. Working with people from a broad set of backgrounds, cultures, training, professions, with different languages can be extremely challenging, and progress when working together for the first time can be slow. Traditionally, textile designers have been a silent link in the industry supply chain, but with the new challenges that collaboration brings that role is expanding. The research presented here poses this question: could textile designers play a more influential role, by using their unique methods and skills to support new collaborations working towards an industry where waste is more often utilised as a resource? The study focusses on practice-based design research undertaken by the authors –one with a background in textiles and the other in materials communication – to support the formation of effective working relationships between participants in the multidisciplinary consortium project: Trash-2-Cash. A series of experiments were conducted using photography, visual data mapping, silent meditation and drawing to bring participants closer together by focussing on faces. The authors conclude by proposing this approach as a new method for enabling shared understanding in a multi-disciplinary setting, starting with participants’ portraits and using design practice to build connections between the people within the collaboration. The authors suggest that this method inform internal communication and facilitation tools as well as external communication of the collaboration as part of a wider strategy to engage external non-specialist audiences in the work being undertaken. The approach may be of particular interest to research projects where designers are working with other disciplines for the first time.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"30 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2017-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131479091","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Rediscovering Almalaguês: A Strategic Design Approach to a Traditional Portuguese Hand-Weaving Technique*","authors":"P. de Almeida, A. Chatterjee, António João Fernandes Lourenço Gomes","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1449075","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1449075","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper presents a collaborative research initiative involving a design approach to Almalaguês, a hand-weaving technique from Coimbra, Portugal, possibly dating back to the eleventh century. According to research findings, Almalaguês textile faces an uncertain future. The technique remains largely unacknowledged despite its historical and cultural significance, and creative potential—a situation that this initiative aims to address. The associated research culminates in Cortebel® 50, a Brand Archaeology project that pays homage to the industrial legacy of an iconic Portuguese footwear manufacturer, Cortebel®, in its 50th year of operation. The objective is to understand locally specific brands and their products in relation to their contextual frame of reference, enabling the discovery of their essence and how they represent local traditions, cultures, and people. The recovered knowledge serves as a generative resource for further applicability in contemporary contexts. In this case, the outcomes include the rediscovery of an ancient culture of weaving in Almalaguês, and its contextual hybridization in a new area of application—footwear. The creative approach involves exercising tenets of Brand Archaeology and Designrascar methods, in an industrial setting beset with infrastructural and resource-based constraints. The methods endorse a hands-on approach to design, and acknowledge both circumstantial constraints and cultural significance as factors that inspire imaginativeness beyond understood thresholds. Within this project, strategic partnerships have been formed with local associations, governmental bodies, industries, and academic institutions, to form a network that can help preserve and sustain the production of Almalaguês fabrics.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"83 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2017-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122625071","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Intersections: Collaborations in Textile Design Research","authors":"Laura Morgan, Janette Matthews","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2017.1484048","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2017.1484048","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"9 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2017-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116851665","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Crafted Futures: A Craft/Technology Collaboration","authors":"Elizabeth Gaston","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1449074","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1449074","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Crafted Futures is a craft/technology visual response to William Gott’s Dyehouse Pattern Book produced in 1815 whilst Gott was an apprentice in his father’s woolen mill. The work utilized craft practice to explore theories of color contrast, assimilation and optical mixing in color production. In collaboration with print technologist Muriel Rigout, applied craft thinking was employed in the development of the work, tacit knowledge of materials and skill were employed with formal color theory, using textile craft processes and digital print as a modelling tool. The project was important as an example of a craft/technology collaboration, identified as a driver for commercial growth. The success of the project was discussed in terms of individual research outcomes, the success of the visual response and the success of the collaborative process. The work was exhibited at Leeds Industrial Museum, Armley Mills, Leeds, 14th October to 27th November 2016.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"71 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2017-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124049777","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Textiles as Material Gestalt: Cloth as a Catalyst in the Co-designing Process","authors":"K. Townsend, A. Sadkowska","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1449077","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1449077","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Textiles is the common language within Emotional Fit, a collaborative research project investigating a person-centred, sustainable approach to fashion for an ageing female demographic (55+). Through the co-designing of a collection of research tools, textiles have acted as a material gestalt for exploring our research participants’ identities by tracing their embodied knowledge of fashionable dress. The methodology merges interpretative phenomenological analysis, co-design and a simultaneous approach to textile and garment design. Based on an enhanced understanding of our participants textile preferences, particular fabric qualities have catalysed silhouettes, through live draping and geometric pattern cutting to accommodate multiple body shapes and customisation. Printed textiles have also been digitally crafted in response to the contours of the garment and body and personal narratives of wear. Sensorial and tactile interactions have informed the engineering and scaling of patterns within zero-waste volumes. The article considers the functional and aesthetic role of textiles through the co-creative development of printed garment prototypes that explore the physical and emotional aspects of fashion and ageing. Within the practice-led research, emphasis is placed on the participants involvement through manipulating and animating emerging textile and dress objects. The collaborative exchange draws on fundamental connections between dress and personal identity, utilizing cloth to mediate material and individual agency. The methodology seeks to capture and enact values attributed to material engagement through body-cloth dialogue. By reflecting on the longevity of particular items of dress we investigate how textile attachment can inform emotionally durable fashion solutions.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"20 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2017-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122760265","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Cross-section of a Multi-disciplinary Project in View of Smart Textile Design Practice","authors":"R. Townsend, A. Karttunen, M. Karppinen, J. Mikkonen","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1449076","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1449076","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract We describe the development path of a smart textile design method, stemming from a collaborative multi-disciplinary project, with three university departments: chemistry, design and electrical engineering. While the project focus was not originally on textiles, the needs for flexible semiconducting materials led to experiments with a zinc oxide(ZnO) semiconductor deposited over cotton substrate, thus shifting the focus towards textiles. A series of exchanges and actions between the three disciplines raised the awareness of the need for textile design methods regarding electric materials. Taking this as a starting point for generating new knowledge, drawing from the strengths of both textile design and engineering, an approach to develop smart textiles was developed. We conducted preliminary evaluation of this approach, called Teksig method, in three contexts related to the smart textile design practice: exploratory and creative collaboration, smart textile design, and technical measurements. To this end, a workshop was organised, as well as conducting a series of measurements using a mechanical test rig, and designing smart textiles with different types of electroconductive yarns. While the initial findings suggest usefulness, however more thorough examination is needed. In this paper, we discuss the overall project, and identify the key stages in the interdisciplinary collaboration, in terms of textile design practice, while reflecting on the outcomes, which enabled paving the way for interwoven design and scientific knowledge embedded into smart textile design practice.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"60 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2017-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123105391","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Fungal Inspired Textile Design (FITeD) for Sustainably – Cyclable – Biomimicry: A Case Study of Synthetic Fiber Reuse and Application","authors":"Atule Margaret Akpa","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2017.1397489","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2017.1397489","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Most designers and product developers, especially those working by principles of biomimicry, are yet to integrate both sustainable materials and processes in their works. Where materials are sustainable, processes of production are often not, and vice versa. In an attempt to fill this gap, selected fungi species were investigated as focus for exploration; viewing their holistic structure - the mycelia, otherwise known as the roots and the more obvious fruiting body found seasonally above the ground- and their function in the ecosystem. Two concepts have evolved from this exploration. (1) The decomposing/recycling ability of fungi mycelia, even in environments with limited resources, has led to the development of an approach to optimizing textile wastes, by a method developed from an existing technique, to produce new fabrics from synthetic fibers at their end use phase. This method derived from free- form machine embroidery techniques, delivers a short fiber to fabric chain of production. (2) The intricate structural characteristics of the fruiting body of the mushrooms served as basis for abstracted 2D and 3D designs, utilized to impart tactically and to implement the bespoke method for sustainable textile production described in this research. In addition, the materials and processes employed were aimed at reducing further adverse impacts on the environment to ensure continuous use-re-use, or “cyclability”, of products. Some outcomes of this research are presented here, comprising mainly of small textile samples that have potential applications in customized garment production, accessories, or interior furnishings. The goal of the study presented is to propose an integrative approach to sustainable textile design to encourage biomimicry, such that textile designs and their respective derived products incorporate as much as possible, sustainable materials and sustainable production processes, analogous to that obtainable in nature. As such, the paper positions future research in this area.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"18 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2017-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122948837","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}