Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice最新文献_第9页

Lucy Brown: “Secrets She Keeps from Herself” 露西·布朗:“她不告诉自己的秘密”

Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2018-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2018.1553763

C. Harper

引用次数: 0

Aural Textiles: Beyond Visual Pattern Making 听觉纺织品:超越视觉图案制作

Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2018-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2018.1522077

Lynne Mennie, George S. Jaramillo

引用次数: 1

The Designers Leap: Boundary Jumping to Foster Interdisciplinarity between Textile Design and Science 设计师的飞跃:跨越边界，促进纺织设计与科学的交叉

Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2018-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2018.1451211

Janet Coulter

{"title":"The Designers Leap: Boundary Jumping to Foster Interdisciplinarity between Textile Design and Science","authors":"Janet Coulter","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1451211","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1451211","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Creative thinking is an instinctive problem-solving process for designers however, designers alone cannot solve real-world problems. Collaboration between higher education and industry, and across design and science disciplines can create new paradigms of research to address societal and economic challenges. This paper argues from the perspective of fashion and textile designers, for design to be at the heart of the collaborative research process and advocates for co-design, speculative-design and scenario design to be considered as valid methodologies to foster interdisciplinarity. Perspectives on interdisciplinary partnerships across academic disciplines and with industry are typified by two very different reflections of collaborative projects between fashion designers, textile designers, scientists and industrial partners. The paper identifies commonalities and differences between scientists and designers, with particular relevance to textiles, in a bid to understand how they may collaborate more effectively in the context of interdisciplinary work, and the paper further identifies factors needed for establishing common enablers for engaging in co-design. This is an under-explored field and highlights the changing role of the designer, and as such is of value to researchers in textiles, fashion and product design.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"56 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129858346","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 4

Designing for Multiple Expressions: Questioning Permanence as a Sign of Quality in Textiles 多重表达的设计:对纺织品品质标志的持久性的质疑

Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2018-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2018.1514697

R. Talman

{"title":"Designing for Multiple Expressions: Questioning Permanence as a Sign of Quality in Textiles","authors":"R. Talman","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1514697","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1514697","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Developing alternative materials and methods of production and recycling is crucial to achieving more sustainable, circular textile practices. In addition to these, a shift in how textiles are perceived may well be needed. Textile practice has long sought to create textiles that, regardless of their material or post-production treatments do not subsequently change in expression, eliminating the fading of colors and wearing out of materials. Questioning this in order to evaluate quality, durability, and aesthetics may open up for greater circularity through extending product lifetimes, and allowing change to be embraced rather than delaying the signs of aging. This paper presents work that challenges the notion of permanence as a sign of quality in textiles by shifting the focus towards creating textiles that are capable of developing different visual expressions over time. By examining the natural changes in color of materials in plain and Jacquard-patterned woven textiles made of several materials, this paper explores the possibilities relating to designing textile patterns that can evolve in multiple different directions from one starting point. Textiles woven with a combination of different materials were used in various contexts, including outdoors, in order to explore how the materials reacted. The resulting color combinations varied depending on what conditions the material was exposed to, suggesting a more versatile view on the aesthetics of textiles. The results indicate that various colors, patterns, and structures can be achieved from one starting point, indicating that an alternative definition for quality, based on the aesthetics of change, may be viable. The natural aging of materials could be used in design processes to embed evolving patterns, colors, or structures in textiles, reconnecting textile products with the inherent, changeable qualities of materials.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"20 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116987306","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Material Futures: Design-led Approaches to Crafting Conversations in the Circular Economy 材料未来:以设计为主导的循环经济对话方法

Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2018-06-22 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2018.1462687

Lynn-Sayers McHattie, Jen Ballie

{"title":"Material Futures: Design-led Approaches to Crafting Conversations in the Circular Economy","authors":"Lynn-Sayers McHattie, Jen Ballie","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1462687","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1462687","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper explores the work in the area of Material Futures – undertaken by researchers at The Glasgow School of Art (GSA). We begin by presenting current debates within the textile sector and outline the challenges of the circular economy. The Scottish Government have established a £17 million fund to catalyse innovative approaches for the circular economy, which support closed-loop systems including collaboration, evaluation of different methods and future material ecologies. We discuss future material ecologies in two case studies in order to extrapolate the ways in which creative and participatory design approaches can be used to stimulate dialogue around the circular economy, broader environmental and economic issues and the socio-cultural implications. We identify six design principles for researchers and practitioners to consider when facilitating circular conversations and the evolving role of the textile designer. We go on to highlight the significance of design-led approaches in strengthening communication, promoting creative action and embedding collaborative ways of working. We conclude by making recommendations for future research and practice and how the insights might be expanded upon to support ethical, responsible and sustainable material futures.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-06-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130252527","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 3

Seeing Raw Fibers: Collaborating with Fiber Farmers to Develop Tacit Knowledge in a Fiber Sorting, Grading, and Classing Apprenticeship 看到原始纤维:与纤维农民合作，在纤维分类、分级和分类学徒制中发展隐性知识

Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2018-06-20 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2018.1462686

Helen X. Trejo, Tasha L. Lewis

{"title":"Seeing Raw Fibers: Collaborating with Fiber Farmers to Develop Tacit Knowledge in a Fiber Sorting, Grading, and Classing Apprenticeship","authors":"Helen X. Trejo, Tasha L. Lewis","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1462686","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1462686","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In an effort to dig deeper into slow fashion in a local context, this case study research draws attention to the quality of raw fibers to inform clothing and textile design practices. A unique standardized system of sorting, grading, and classing raw fibers is developing in the United States to help fiber farmers with small flocks, and a variety of fiber animals such as sheep, alpacas, and goats. The system aims to help farmers learn about fiber quality, develop higher quality products, and earn more sustainable incomes for their farm businesses. This research is an outcome of taking Basic and Advanced Fiber Sorting, Grading, and Classing courses, and doing the Fiber Sorting, Grading, and Classing apprenticeship. It uses Actor Network theory as a framework to outline the practice-based approach that requires continuous “reflection-in-action” with a variety of natural fibers. The objectives of this study were to (1) gain hands-on experience sorting and grading raw animal fibers sourced directly from farmers, and (2) obtain feedback from a Master fiber mentor to learn from the process. This study presents results of completing approximately 30% of the apprenticeship program with over 70 alpaca, wool, and mohair fleeces from five fiber farms during Winter 2016, Spring, and Summer 2017. A majority of the fleeces, 60, were sorted in direct collaboration with a fellow fiber apprentice who is an alpaca farmer. The accuracy of sorting and grading was 73% and the process led to tacit knowledge with natural fibers. This study presents an Actor Network Theory analysis diagram to visualize the fiber apprenticeship process. Overall, this study provides deeper insight into assessing fiber quality to determine optimal clothing and textile designs for slow fashion localism.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"96 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-06-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133125686","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 2

Whole Circles: A Leadership Model to Support Expanded Roles for Circular Textile Designers 整个循环:支持循环纺织设计师扩展角色的领导模式

Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2018-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2018.1434744

R. Earley

{"title":"Whole Circles: A Leadership Model to Support Expanded Roles for Circular Textile Designers","authors":"R. Earley","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1434744","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1434744","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract As the field of circular textile design emerges, researchers are questioning what skills designers will need to enable the new systems, processes and products to successfully loop back in to subsequent lifecycles. Circular textile design differs from traditional textile design because it asks the designer of the textile to not only create a new material, but to prioritise the use and end-of-life of the product at the outset. This requires the designer to not only understand more about the processes of production, use and disposal, but much more about the people in these new systems too. In this article, the author draws upon first-hand experience of evolving from the making of circular textiles, to supporting others to make circular textiles. Reflecting on the leadership role of being the Director of a University research Centre (UrC), the article goes in search of a model to generate and share the insights derived from developing from a textile design researcher to a leader. The methods involved a form of triangulation using the recognised attributes for success of a high-performing research unit, along with leadership signposts created by an experienced corporate manager, with reflections by the author on the experiences at the UrC across a 5-year period. Working with input from Baron, the author extended her research practice to include an autoethnographic study, from which questions and key insights are extracted. These insights were then used to redesign the HEFCE model. The transferrable Whole Circles model presented at the end of the article proposes that textile designers seek to ensure they have a good understanding of themselves as people, so that their leadership style is empathic and grounded. It also proposes a 3-dimensional form which supports the growth of other researchers to lead in their own expertise areas.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"16 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"117150056","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Circular Speeds: A Review of Fast & Slow Sustainable Design Approaches for Fashion & Textile Applications 循环速度:时装和纺织品应用的快速和缓慢可持续设计方法综述

Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2018-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2018.1467197

K. Goldsworthy, R. Earley, K. Politowicz

{"title":"Circular Speeds: A Review of Fast & Slow Sustainable Design Approaches for Fashion & Textile Applications","authors":"K. Goldsworthy, R. Earley, K. Politowicz","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1467197","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1467197","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In this paper, developed by a group of design researchers at UAL, we define circular design in the context of a sustainable fashion system and consider how a polarisation of thinking in relation to “speeds” has occurred. By reflecting on the practice outcomes produced as part of the Textile Toolbox in Mistra Future Fashion (MFF) Phase 1, we question the idea of “circular speeds” for textile design and analyse concepts which relate to “super-slow” and “fast-forward” approaches. The MFF programme’s cross-disciplinary approach brings together design and scientific researchers with industry experts in a bid to understand and recognise the potential for design in creating a circular fashion future at multiple lifecycle speeds. We review the historical context of “slow” before presenting contemporary case studies from industry which relate to one of three key approaches defined as a framework for “super-slow” design. We also review the current context of “fast” before presenting contemporary case studies from industry which point towards the potential for redefining the “fast” context in fashion by relating it to circular strategies and material recovery possibilities. Again these themes are presented in a framework of three key approaches for “fast-forward” design. Finally, we bring together the analysis of both fast and slow and a single proposition for designing for the circular economy and as a starting point for the work to be developed by the design researchers. We discuss synergies and trade offs between the approaches and suggest a middle ground for future investigation. Through this process we aim to generate insights about design that can be applied and tested by others. By reviewing current industry approaches and activity alongside academic design research, we propose a useful framework to demonstrate that the lens of speed can offer new opportunities towards a more sustainable industry.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"49 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125488381","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 24

What Else Do We Know? Exploring Alternative Applications of Design Knowledge and Skills in the Development of Circular Textiles 我们还知道什么?探索设计知识和技能在循环纺织品开发中的替代应用

Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2018-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2018.1434745

R. Hornbuckle

{"title":"What Else Do We Know? Exploring Alternative Applications of Design Knowledge and Skills in the Development of Circular Textiles","authors":"R. Hornbuckle","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2018.1434745","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1434745","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract There has been an awakening in recent years in the field of design research to the idea that designers can take on a number of roles other than the traditional narrow focus on products. This paper draws on existing research to explore new ways of applying design knowledge in the circular economy, and in particular in relation to the development of materials. Observations from the current EU H2020 T2C project build on this current understanding within a consortium project case study. T2C involves textile designers as well as industrial designers, manufacturers and scientists working together to develop a new fibre made from textile waste. Three new roles for designers are presented and further developed: (1) bringing new design-driven insights - hands-on materials knowledge and introducing the social context; (2) translation, interpretation and boundary spanning to bridge disciplinary barriers; and (3) introducing design tools and methods to support interdisciplinary collaboration. This research concludes that there are various ways that designers can apply their knowledge and skills to support circular materials systems other than designing products, but designers need to be better equipped to identify and practice these roles, and the nuances of different design approaches needs to be acknowledged and better understood when building multi-faceted design teams incorporating unconventional design roles.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"229 4","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"113972333","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 2

Circular Transitions: Textile design and the circular economy 循环转型:纺织品设计与循环经济

Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2018-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2018.1505362

K. Goldsworthy, R. Earley

引用次数: 2