Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice最新文献

{"title":"Reflections on the Baltimore Natural Dye Initiative and Cultivating Communities of Care","authors":"Valeska Populoh, Ọmọlará Williams McCallister","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1956782","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1956782","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The Baltimore Natural Dye Initiative (NDI) is a multi-agency project exploring the cultural and economic impacts of growing and using natural dyes in the Baltimore region. The project established a dye farm at Parks and People Foundation, and initiated a collaboration between the Maryland Institute College of Art (MICA) and community artists to support learning about natural dyes, their histories, and implications of their use in art, design, and community contexts. Courses in the Fiber Department served as containers for collaboration and supported the development of artist-driven projects that now anchor the NDI and define the expanded curriculum. This paper reflects on the people who have shaped this project and how the learning space, pedagogy, curriculum, and community evolved as a result of their collective work.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"19 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114184228","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Schoolgirl Embroideries and Black Girlhood in Antebellum Philadelphia","authors":"Kelli Barnes","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1999101","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1999101","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Embroideries stitched by girls at schools for Black children in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries are rare finds. The few embroideries likely stitched by Black schoolgirls that do survive often offer historical evidence in the stitched names of their makers and the schools they attended. Yet there is little scholarship on these embroideries or the education these schoolgirls were pursuing while creating their samplers. Examined with methodologies that use material culture as primary evidence, these embroideries can provide valuable clues about the lives of Black girls in northern cities during the antebellum period. This paper examines the materiality, textual content, and design aesthetics of these needlework pieces, as well as the context in which they were stitched. Previous scholars have automatically attributed the girls’ needlework skills to their European schools or influences. My work considers the needlework skills likely taught to the girls by their family and kinfolk. Moving outside of the home, I examine school and organizational records to understand the motivation and methodology for teaching children of color in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania after the Revolutionary War. These embroideries reveal young girls who were learning and being taught how to be young Black girls, and all that entails in terms of the performance of domesticity and republicanism. The quiet activism revealed in their embroideries continued with the formation of their families and the support they gave their communities. “Reading” needlework offers invaluable insight into the early history of Black children’s formal education before Emancipation and illuminates the formation of Black American girlhood identities in the eighteenth- and nineteenth-century United States. On a larger scale, these embroideries represent another form of Black American cultural production to add to the long list of contributions people of the African diaspora have made to the Americas.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"137 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116270973","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Moving Forward While Looking Back: Alnôbakskwak (Abenaki Women) Designing and Creating Modern Regalia for Generations of Native American Descendants","authors":"Vera Longtoe Sheehan","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.2012335","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.2012335","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT The Abenaki Tribes living in Vermont are situated on the borderlands between the United States and Canada; they recently have been recognized by the State of Vermont but remain unrecognized by the federal government (more about State recognized Abenaki Tribes and their recognition dates can be found on the State of Vermont: Vermont Commission on Native American Affairs website. https://vcnaa.vermont.gov/recognition/recognized-Tribes). When the recognition applications of four Abenaki Tribes were compared, it became apparent that many Abenaki agricultural traditions had been preserved and that our cultural revitalization efforts could be extended not only to the planting and harvesting of heirloom crops but also to reviving ceremonial dances and the creation of regalia for both planting and harvest ceremonies. The regalia's role in this project was to help strengthen intertribal relationships and restore cultural context to the dances for the first time in generations. As women from different communities prepared for the renewal of the harvest dances, questions arose around issues of cultural identity, design motifs, materials, and custodianship of the regalia between ceremonies. Many Abenaki people have their own regalia, but this set of regalia was made for a community. This paper highlights the story of the Abenaki Women’s Group (AWG) that reinvented Abenaki traditional clothing for the modern age and focuses particularly on the regalia it made for use in Abenaki agricultural ceremonies. It explores the process of creating the garments, their materiality, and the outcome of the ceremony. It sets the stage for a discussion about the essential yet hidden leadership roles of Native American women in a consensus-based society. It demonstrates how a team of Abenaki women from different communities came together to play a crucial role in the cultural revitalization process through the creation and usage of regalia for agricultural ceremonies.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"13 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123613117","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"(e)Textile New Materialities","authors":"Teresa Almeida","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1899474","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1899474","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This paper explores the intersections within bodily materialism and future textiles by inquiring into embodied practices and materiality in care. By placing the body as a site of research, it centres around concepts of bodily care and the body as an ecosystem, one that is always in flux and considers the fluidity of bodies and bodily fluids, such as urine, discharge, breath and sweat, as fluids with potential to design with. It looks at how bodies are acted upon by outside forces, and explore more-than-human relations as co-creators in co-habiting the space of the body and that around it. To illustrate this, the paper introduces a series of design research artefacts that take a variety of approaches to exploring the materiality of care in the everyday. First, an eTextile toolkit that aims to create bodily awareness through hands-on engagement with textile crafting technology, then a biotextile harvesting toolkit that involves the raw material of the intimate body that explores DIYbio in the context of the home, and lastly a set of wearable living material-based explorations that recognize biomimicry and symbiotic relationships in designing for chronic stress. In embracing notions of bodily materialism, this paper explores the bodily abject, i.e. fluids and the more-than-human as crucial to engendering new modes of knowing in intimate and personal care through textile-based materials. The paper engages critically with textile design research and practice by placing material that embraces care as ambivalent at the forefront and thus challenging traditional approaches to health and care and, importantly, the design of future textiles.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122703016","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Designing and Living with Organisms Weaving Entangled Worlds as Doing Multispecies Philosophy","authors":"Svenja Keune","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1912897","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1912897","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The emergence of biodesign opens new ways for textile design and production processes by e.g. using living organisms directly for growing or dyeing textiles. Researchers and designers who engage in such practices often describe their processes as a collaboration with the living. Since maintenance or acts of caring are often fundamental for a successful result, supportive environments for the living are created. However, most of the organisms are only used to carry out a specific task given by the designers’ intention, e.g., excreting pigments to dye a piece of silk, and are killed after the successful completion of the “collaborative” project, which is one of the reasons why the anthropocentric perspective remains an integral part of the textile design process. This research aims to challenge the anthropocentrism inherent in textile design methodologies. Drawing from the work of Donna Haraway, in this exploratory paper, I advocate for exploring more than anthropocentric and multispecies perspectives to textile design by understanding the textile design practice as a way of being-with and staying-with, rather than as a solution-driven practice. Therefore, I revisit and reflect on three stories that derived from encounters between humans and insects in shared textile contexts. The stories on multispecies cohabitation resulted from the autobiographic research ‘Textile Farming’. Weaving connections between contemporary approaches to design, this paper proposes a conceptual framework of the levels that designers can engage with the living e.g., designing with, for, or together with living organisms up to living-with and becoming-with. I found these reflections to offer valuable perspectives to reflect on, analyze, and discuss processes in which living organisms play a role. Consequently, the paper contributes to reflective practice and opens up the textile design practice towards open-ended events as a more than anthropocentric approach to designing textiles.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"23 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129346021","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"From Scent Projection to Respiratory Protection: Designing Digital Olfactory Interactions for Fashion Wearables","authors":"Caroline McMillan","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1902657","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1902657","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT In recent times, environmental and psychological threats revive protective dress forms, specifically the mask. Threats such as the COVID-19 pandemic, and technological infrastructures of surveillance capitalism, materially shape social realities. This paper explores current doctoral research, the AURA case study, which accounts for the cultural, contextual undercurrents and hidden operations of these threats, and how they refashion wearables practice. AURA is a series of Internet of Things (IoT) connected, olfactory wearables that render sensor-captured data into digital scent display. The author argues that bodies, as the subject of and venue for data extraction, are invested in, and fashioned by, bio-political power structures of systemic surveillance. A critical approach examines how bodies are materially re-crafted by physiological and psychological hazards—proposing an expanded understanding of technology as a bodily matter of the social practice of dress. The focus is to lend the notion of bodily matters as an analytical filter for reading important insights from fashion, and Human-Computer Interaction (HCI) studies through one another while proposing a subversive reworking of olfactory interfaces for wearables. This research employs critical fashion practice to embed wireless communication technologies and digital olfactory data visualisation for a spectrum of purposes, from wearable scent displays to protective forms that shield the body from airborne contaminants. Thoughtful dialogue in temporary public forums and workshops gathers specific issues of automated olfactory display where capitalised technology applications and a global pandemic converge. Community-defined perceived harms and external threats warrant personal protection. The olfactory sense is a way to access emotion-based, ecological and ethical connections across spatial and temporal scales in speculative wearables design. This paper outlines changing roles and practices for multi-sensory wearables innovation, working to suggest new modes beyond current technology development paradigms, for empowered and meaningful interactions in networked data infrastructures.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"9 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116917451","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Introduction: Textile Intersections - Textile Discipline at Cross-Roads","authors":"T. Heinzel, Rebecca K Stewart","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1914392","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1914392","url":null,"abstract":"Multidisciplinarity, interdisciplinarity and trans-disciplinarity (Nimkulrat et al. 2020) are frequently-courted concepts testifying to the high level of specialisation of scientific research and of the need to work collaboratively. These connections can be interpreted as an aspect of the interdependencies between science and technology (what is commonly known as “technosciences”) which are often realized as collaborations between different specialists and institutional structures. If “technoscientific productivity” (Klein 2005) relates to an empiric epistemic model in which there is a prevalence of “techne” (doing) over “episteme” (knowing), the “science in action” perspective advanced by Bruno Latour (Latour 1999) translates the way science is done today in both its instrumental and institutional reality, as opposed to science idealist constructions. In an age in which the idea of expertise is challenged (Latour 2014), concepts such as interdisciplinarity and multidisciplinarity are to be addressed with even more consideration. Design as a science between scales (Heinzel and Hinestroza 2020) is dependent on both: the tools used in the measurement, the visualisation and the treatment of the material world, as on the (participatory) tools to understand and to represent the social phenomena. As a constructivist discipline, design has to deal not only with the analysis and the understanding of different natural phenomena, but has to take into account the possible impact of design interventions on everybody and everyday life. The high degree of Tincuţa Heinzel is an artist, designer and researcher with a background in visual arts, design and cultural anthropology. Her artistic production makes use of electronic textiles, digital and interactive media and engages the ways in which techniques can be diverted in order to bring into the light their potentialities. Her research focuses on the impact of material turn in design and the new forms of industry. She initiated, curated, and / or coordinated several projects, such as “Artists in Industry” (Bucharest, 2011–2013), “Haptosonics” (Oslo, 2013) and “Attempts, Failures, Trials and Errors” (Bergen Bucharest, 2017-1018). She is presently a Senior Lecturer at Loughborough University (UK). Additional information can be found at: www. textiltronics.com.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"49 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116646746","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"From the Earth to Electricity: The Scientific Craft of Electro-Metallised Textiles","authors":"Joanne Jane Horton","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1890336","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1890336","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Since the late nineteenth century metallised textiles created by electricity and chemistry have been impersonating and combining with precious metal in finishes, treatments and embellishment. During the early twentieth century, innovation in the metallisation of aluminium could be seen through the process of bonding and coating. Indeed, amongst the traditional craft techniques used to imbue exquisite garments, ceremonial dress and treasured artefacts with gold, silver and copper, sits the transformative electro-chemical science of making. In this article I will discuss the historical development, techniques and renewed interest in processing associated with electrodeposition and textiles. It first charts ancient metallurgical work on materials, created by chemical reaction. It then explores nineteenth century innovation in electrochemistry and electrometallurgy that led to the earliest rare examples of electrodeposition on cloth, thread and yarn used in transport, jewellery and dress. It will then move onto how renewed interest in the magic of electrodeposition has begun to transform the creation of bespoke metal textiles; eclectically and aesthetically driven by seminal contemporary practice-based research and thought-provoking work in laboratory-based textiles. It considers the artistry, control and scientific underpinning needed and gives examples of unconventional processing led by a small group of ground-breaking studio textile designers in the United Kingdom (UK), Belgium and Hong Kong. I will pose the question: is interdisciplinary exploration at the forefront of twenty-first century textile design? As such the article reviews the interplay between chemistry and design; the interface between historic and contemporary techniques analysing how the potential glimpsed in past patents by inventors and methodologies from artisan manufacturing and the metal finishing industry can be drawn upon to create forward thinking designs and materials in fashion and textiles.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"39 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-05-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115428576","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Evaluating Degrees of “Softness” in Therapeutic Systems of Knitted Wearable Technology with Brain Injury Survivors","authors":"Laura J Salisbury","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1935111","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1935111","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Wearable energy harvesting methods have been increasingly researched over the past decade. Due to demands for finding suitable ways of powering wearable devices suited to garment contexts, yarn-based “components” gather increasing interest. However, the focus of textile properties of energy harvesting components often place emphasis on functional performance and limited elements concerning wearability; using terms such as “flexible”, “breathable” and “wearable”. Rarely, is there consideration for degrees of “comfort”, and “softness”. Yet, if such methods are to become integrated into wearable garments and worn on a daily basis, or even in niche contexts, the tactile experience requires attention. To address this, the following research details an exploration of softness of a polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) yarn-based energy harvesting method, amongst brain injury survivors where degrees of sensitivity can vary to extremes; accruing either reduced or heightened levels of sensitivity as a result of stroke, for example. Levels of softness have been defined and quantified from earlier samples responded to by stroke survivors. This has been formed into a chart and used in reference within the development process to refine and detail the methods used to improve the quality of softness in the process of knitting. In contexts, such as the knit lab, participant presence can be limited, yet feedback, especially on subjective matters such as softness, is critical to the development process. The method presented of grading softness in accordance with previous samples is seen to aid the researcher to analyse samples made in situ, within an iterative process of development. The paper focuses on providing conversations around technical data within the knit process to deliver soft and wearable energy harvesting textiles. This forms a part of a wider body of PhD research that explores the use of piezoelectric theory as a technological tool for recovery of upper limb deficits for stroke survivors.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"124 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115163769","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"How Hands-on Experimentation in Mechanical Textile Recycling Influences Existing Waste Management Systems","authors":"B. Egloff, D. Wehrli","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1923200","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1923200","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract A multi-layered critical reflection on how the concept of mechanical textile recycling and hands-on experiments can lead to a more sustainable textile future and at the same time leads to an adaptation of existing systems within the textile value chain. How can a new valuable raw material be obtained from post-consumer textile waste (PCTW)? How can this material be processed and integrated into the textile production chain, and what kind of products can emerge out of it? The discussed applied research project, called Texcycle, was organised by the Product & Textile Research Group at the Lucerne University of Applied Sciences and Arts. The research questions mentioned above were approached step by step with the industry, and new solution strategies were sought in the individual process steps with the partners. The main partners were a textile recycling and sorting company, TEXAID Textilverwertungs AG and the wholesaler Coop Genossenschaft. As the project proceeded, a wool spinner, a nonwoven specialist, and a carpet manufacturer joined for prototyping the products. Texcycle is an Innosuisse financed project that promotes knowledge-based innovation in the interest of the economy and society and supports the collaboration of research institutions and the Swiss industry. Therefore, sustainable textile products produced from local waste streams can act as vehicles for change in the textile industry. The development of products from waste streams is highly complex. In addition to the traditional stakeholder of the textile industry, it also concerns new actors such as the waste and sorting industry, which have to acquire knowledge about the processing of used fibres. The proposed solutions are based on new insights about material composition in the waste stream due to the investigation of fibre content in existing key sorting categories. As a result, new material-orientated sorting categories are proposed, not yet established in the market since the main focus is on types and quality. Due to hands-on material design and development with PCTW, requirements and material properties to replace the virgin stock in the textile production chain were identified. The executed development of yarn and nonwovens in this project demonstrates, on the one hand, feasible future applications and is also a proof of concept from a design and market perspective. The resulting artefacts are key for future adaptation in sorting and production facilities yet an initial change in this complex system. This article focuses on the Soft Systems Methodology (SSM) described by its developer Peter Checkland in relation to the material-led design research project Texcycle dealing with post-consumer textile waste. With its origins in system thinking, the soft-system methodology allows an analysis of complex interlinked structures and further uses models of activity to set up a debate about change.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"343 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133153683","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}