Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice最新文献

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Participatory Group Textile Practice as a Route to Support Mental Health and Social Interaction in Secondary School Pupils 参与性小组纺织实践作为支持中学生心理健康和社会互动的途径
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2022-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2022.2111899
Catherine Howard, S. Andrew, Bruce Carnie
{"title":"Participatory Group Textile Practice as a Route to Support Mental Health and Social Interaction in Secondary School Pupils","authors":"Catherine Howard, S. Andrew, Bruce Carnie","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2022.2111899","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2022.2111899","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The mental health of young people in the UK today has become a significant cause for concern, particularly as the impacts of COVID-19 lockdowns, school closures and bereavements are recognised and assessed. Schools are charged with identifying and supporting pupils who are struggling with their mental health and wellbeing, and with delivering a prescribed mental health curriculum for pupils of each age range. It is widely accepted that involvement with creative activity can make a positive contribution to the sense of wellbeing; however, curriculum changes in each sector have diminished creative opportunities in schools leaving many children, particularly those from lower income communities, without regular access to the arts and, as a result, limited opportunity to enhance their wellbeing in this way. This paper outlines the methodology, implementation, and findings from a pilot study with secondary pupils in a Birmingham inner-city through school as part of a research investigation into the relationship between the mental health of young people and participatory group textile practice. Working primarily with a core group of eight pupils aged between 11 and 15, all with experience of poor mental health, the project progressed from idea generation to completing and sharing the final textile outcome. As a six-week group hand-stitch project, the study focused on the impact of the shared process on the pupils, benefits to individuals in terms of personal development and wellbeing, and the positivity generated through successful completion of the project. A participant-observer qualitative methodology was implemented in the research, with questionnaires also informing the project evaluation.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"79 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123402482","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Textile Healing – Feminist Resistance Against Sexualized Violence and Femicides Through Activist Art 纺织品疗愈——女权主义者通过激进艺术反抗性暴力和杀害女性
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2022-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2022.2135312
Sarah Held
{"title":"Textile Healing – Feminist Resistance Against Sexualized Violence and Femicides Through Activist Art","authors":"Sarah Held","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2022.2135312","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2022.2135312","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The public display of textile activist art generates visibility and attention. The artworks discussed in this paper are material signs of rebellion against sexualized violence against women/as women read persons and femicides. This article portrays feminist resistance to sexualized violence/femicides through critical crafting, which is (textile) craft-based activist art. This artistic practice makes invisible violence visible; or feminist phrased the private becomes the political. Textile crafting strategies place sexualized relations of violence to which women are exposed in patriarchally organized (industrial) cultures worldwide – that is, in both the global North and the global South – at the center of the discourse. The art-activists analyzed in this article are concerned with triple-binds that arise in the entanglement of racism, sexism and classism. The projects aim to make visible the situation of survivors of sexualized violence and the relatives of murdered women* and generate a sense of self-empowerment through the co-creation of agency for survivors. This paper asks what correlations arise when traditionally feminine textile crafts are charged with issues of sexualized violence and used as a display for gender-political protest in public space. Feminist art-activists from the collective Force: Upsetting Rape Culture take socio-critical positions with their work The Monument Quilt and try to undermine cultural narratives of gender stereotypes and the associated attributions. The Monument Quilt and its Mexican partner project La Casa Mandarina are textile mouthpieces, as they reflect a huge accumulation of voices in public space. This visual plurality combined with the signal color red of the individual textile parts acts as a metaphor for subjects who (re)conquer urban space loudly and clearly qua screaming red.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"30 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124563430","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
SensAE – A Tool to Explore Material-Touch-Emotions SensAE -一个探索物质触摸情感的工具
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2022-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2022.2100170
Rashmita Bardalai, Jenny Underwood
{"title":"SensAE – A Tool to Explore Material-Touch-Emotions","authors":"Rashmita Bardalai, Jenny Underwood","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2022.2100170","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2022.2100170","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Humans have always explored and interacted with their environment through touching surfaces. The sense of touch is an important part of human interaction and communication. It supports emotional development and wellbeing. But despite the relevance of touch in tactile experience, the touch of (textile) materials and its relationship to emotion has to date not received much attention. There is no tool or process to support textile designers evaluates emotional responses to the touch of textile materials. Designing with materials for overall wellbeing necessitates an understanding of the sensory modalities as well as consideration of the affective stage of what impacts material choices. This article provides a review of key background literature in understanding the complexity of the material-touch-emotion relationship, and the physical and psychological aspects of touching a material. Reflecting on workshops conducted, the Sensation-Appraisal-Emotion (SensAE) tool is presented to better understand the connection between the active touch of material surfaces and the emotional responses to that material touch. The article outlines the methodology for how the SensAE tool was developed, describing the tool, and benefits of using it. The SensAE tool explains the three stages in the material-touch-emotion elicitation process as sensation, appraisal and emotions. It encourages designers and users to consider first the sensation of actively touching the material- how “it” feels; to consider their appraisal of the sensation; and finally, their emotional response to the material- how “they” feel. The SensAE tool supports a user-centered design approach to be used as a guide enabling emotional connections to the touch of textile materials, thereby understanding psychological considerations surrounding sustainable material choices. The SensAE tool provides a way for designers to better assist their material choices consequently supporting a more empathic design process, to enable design for wellbeing.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"36 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116302882","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Designing Eco-Effective Products: A Seeded Textile Approach 设计生态有效产品:种子纺织方法
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2022-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2022.2100092
Molly Radin, K. Cobb
{"title":"Designing Eco-Effective Products: A Seeded Textile Approach","authors":"Molly Radin, K. Cobb","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2022.2100092","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2022.2100092","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Textile production and consumption operate within a broader system that encompasses the intersections of environment, industry, and society. These intersections offer designers the opportunity to explore evolving relationships between textiles, nature, and people in order to foster eco-effective design. The product life cycle of synthetic textiles follows a linear waste path in which microplastics endure after consumption and negatively impact the environmental landscape. In line with McDonough and Braungart’s Cradle to Cradle model, this material development project explores redirecting textile “waste” in an “eco-effective” manner, as a way not only to reduce negative impacts or act neutrally on the environment, but to offer nourishment for a future growth cycle. Integrating seeds in felted wool coasters, the design challenges the linear waste narrative by aligning the textile product life cycle with a biological plant cycle. Beyond designing solely for aesthetics and for functionality as surface protection, this specific material development project adds a horticultural function into the product life cycle of coasters to support and demonstrate an eco-effective design. Furthermore, following a speculative design approach produces a visual overlap within the material itself of a home good as it is used everyday and its potential as a source of future nourishment and growth, thus actively engaging human consumers in the Cradle to Cradle process. This textile development project challenges the dominant model of production and consumption and demonstrates that products designed to work with natural cycles to support the earth and its ecosystems can support shifting the trajectory of human impact toward positive environmental interactions. The study points to the need to consider the longer-term seeded textile lifecycle as a possibility for transforming textile goods into small-scale spaces of infrastructural green development.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"91 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115573224","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Project and Exhibition Review: I AM NOT ALONE—Embroidering Self-Portraits of Vulnerable Immigrant Women 项目及展览回顾:我不孤单——弱势移民女性的刺绣自画像
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2022-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2022.2105000
Jasmina Ferček
{"title":"Project and Exhibition Review: I AM NOT ALONE—Embroidering Self-Portraits of Vulnerable Immigrant Women","authors":"Jasmina Ferček","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2022.2105000","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2022.2105000","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article is a review of the Active relationships II project and the exhibition I am not alone, supported by the International Centre of Graphic Arts (MGLC) from Slovenia. The exhibition event was the culmination of a three-year project focusing on the well-being and integration of migrant women. Oloop Design was using textile art and design as a means of personal and collective empowerment in the project. It has discovered the value of making embroidered self-portraits as a meditative, self-explorative, recovering and reflective activity. The exhibition I Am Not Alone featured 36 embroidered portraits and demonstrated the positive impact of textile design on the well-being and quality of life of the immigrant women.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"8 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131525893","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Introducing a Framework for Crafting E-Textiles: Exploring a Material Investigation into Technology 介绍电子纺织品的制作框架:探索材料研究的技术
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2021.1994207
L. Hernandez
{"title":"Introducing a Framework for Crafting E-Textiles: Exploring a Material Investigation into Technology","authors":"L. Hernandez","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1994207","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1994207","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper introduces a framework and recommendations for crafting e-textiles, advocating craft as an embodied, knowledge-generating practice employing innovative materials and processes. It offers a material investigation into technology to create e-textiles that embed digital capabilities to support more meaningful and connected forms of expression. The framework and recommendations interweave concerns around collaborative, sensorial and aesthetic interaction to conceptualise the relationship between experiences and materials that are lively and animated. The framework conceives lively experiences as a central component of crafted e-textiles that aspire to be meaningful and worthwhile. A material practice activates our sensory awareness and facilitates embodied actions leading to experiences that have much to reveal about people and their interactions through participation and engagement. Applications of the framework and recommendations can structure a material approach to e-textiles and support open exploration and emergent participant behaviour. The framework and recommendations are intended to support more enriching, personally conceived design contexts engaging technology to craft e-textiles that contribute social value and stimulate emotional response in people.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"9 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125367061","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Fibre Architecture: A Soft Simultaneity Design Practice 纤维结构:一种软同时性设计实践
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2021-09-30 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2021.1956781
Jenny Underwood, L. Zilka
{"title":"Fibre Architecture: A Soft Simultaneity Design Practice","authors":"Jenny Underwood, L. Zilka","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1956781","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1956781","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper sets out the investigation and methodological learnings of an ongoing collaborative research practice situated between architecture and textile design to show a new practice that is a fusion of the disciplines rather than a parallel set of practices. Applying textile materials to architectural form is challenging in its complexity, requiring an understanding and empathy with the textile material and technique to determine its material behaviour and structural form at an architectural scale. There is a simultaneity that happening collectively between the disciplines to ensure the success in design, fabrication and assembly. This means that structure, form, and material are considered at the same time by both disciplines. In response to these challenges, we present ‘soft simultaneity’ as a methodological approach, where the design programme – design concept, fabrication and assembly – are perceived and effectively developed simultaneously from the different vantage points of each discipline’s knowledge. Each disciplines’ contribution to the collaboration is relative to the other. While each simultaneously perceive the same event (design actions), they do so from their different frame of reference, to feedforward and feedback into the emergent design in different ways. This brings a certain elasticity to the process of the design programme. It enables the coming together of diverse knowledge sets, divergent processes, of the whole and the particular, and to accommodate differences in scale, through advanced digital architectural processes and detailed physical textile design sampling. While the textile material provides the latent potentiality for form finding and creativity, it is soft simultaneity that enables the nature of these materials, their behaviours and interactions to be revealed and realised. We identify and discuss this approach, in the context of a series of projects, and offer this as a useful example of a material-led design strategy for dealing with the complexity of interdisciplinary research.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"21 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126474120","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
On Grace, Glory, and Fake Gold: A Queer Tangent in Tapestry 论优雅、荣耀和假黄金:《挂毯》中的奇怪切线
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2021-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2021.1999099
John Paul Morabito
{"title":"On Grace, Glory, and Fake Gold: A Queer Tangent in Tapestry","authors":"John Paul Morabito","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1999099","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1999099","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In this writing, I use the tangent as a queer methodology to craft an ontology of tapestry. Art historical anecdotes, familial immigrant stories, and queer declarations of faith are interwoven tangents that attempt, perhaps, to weave a tapestry of their own. Through this, I focus on my own studio production and engage the tangential positionality of weaving to consider tapestry as a form that mirrors the Catholic disavowal of queer people. The Magnificat tapestries discussed remediate Italian Renaissance paintings of the Madonna and Child as Jacquard woven tapestries. Appropriation, mutation, and decadence are manifested in these tapestries, and further examined through ethnic legacies and queer temporalities. Narratives of immigrant Marian devotion are met with musings on drag to consider their overlap and opposition. Throughout this writing I engage queerness, ethnicity, and the sacred to imagine, and offer, a queer vision of grace.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"9 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127141591","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Many Makers: Collaborative Renewal of Chahta Nan Tvnna (Choctaw Textiles) 多方创客:Chahta Nan Tvnna (Choctaw纺织品)的协同更新
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2021-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2021.1999100
Jennifer Byram
{"title":"Many Makers: Collaborative Renewal of Chahta Nan Tvnna (Choctaw Textiles)","authors":"Jennifer Byram","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1999100","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1999100","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Using an Indigenous research model of relationality to community and to land, this paper presents the production of a 1700s-style skirt in bison and dogbane fiber by a group of Chahta (Choctaw) nan tvnna (textile artisans). By translating existing archaeological and textual resources into newly-produced garments, these practices communicate the research to the Chahta community in an accessible and inspiring format. Textiles discussed in this paper are made with twining and oblique interlacing techniques using dogbane, bison, and nettle yarns decorated with natural dyes, pigments, or shells. The production of this series of textiles ushers in a new phase in the reawakening of Chahta nan tvnna (Choctaw textiles), a project coordinated through the Choctaw Nation of Oklahoma Tribal Historic Preservation Office. By bringing information from the archaeological and textual resources forward in an accessible way and building a community of interested textile artisans, members of the Choctaw Nation of Oklahoma revitalized a traditional art that had been sleeping for over two hundred years. Grounded in Indigenous theory and Southeastern North American archaeological textile collections and literature, the Chahta nan tvnna project uses a collaborative research methodology. Working alongside Indigenous artisans, primary source material from the archaeological record was used in the production of nan tvnna materials. As demonstrated in this paper, projects that tie community members to the natural resources of their local environment through the sharing of traditional knowledge can re-twine relationships with land and resources.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"12 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127789632","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Casting a Wide Net: The Value of Collaboration and Outreach with Source Communities in the Analysis of Historic Native American Fishing Nets 大撒网:美国原住民渔网历史分析中与源头社区合作与拓展的价值
Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice Pub Date : 2021-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511787.2021.1999102
A. Camp
{"title":"Casting a Wide Net: The Value of Collaboration and Outreach with Source Communities in the Analysis of Historic Native American Fishing Nets","authors":"A. Camp","doi":"10.1080/20511787.2021.1999102","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2021.1999102","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The Lenape Tribe of Delaware is one of two recognized tribes within the state of Delaware. Having only gained state recognition in 2016, the group is actively working to regain the lifeways of their ancestors that have been lost in the aftermath of colonization and systemic oppression. This paper discusses collaborative research between the author, a student in Art Conservation, and the Lenape Tribe of Delaware on the once-crucial practice of net-tying. It addresses the impetus for the project and its role in object-based decolonization and Indigenous knowledge reclamation. The research was inspired by the last known Lenape netmaker, Clem Carney, whose work was collected by anthropologists in the early 1900s but since forgotten. The project was completed in collaboration with the Tribe from initial proposal onward and included three main stages: examination of fishing nets from Native Mid-Atlantic groups at the National Museum of the American Indian and the American Museum of Natural History; the compilation of an inventory of Native Mid-Atlantic nets and associated tools from institutions throughout North America; and outreach. Outreach efforts included a Tribal Delegation to the National Museum of the American Indian Cultural Resources Center, presentations to both the Native and non-Native community, and net-making workshops held at the Biggs Museum of American Art in Dover, DE. Through these events and a range of media posts and articles, it is estimated that 7,000 people learned about this collaboration. The project has prompted subsequent collaborations and serves as a model for community-driven research.","PeriodicalId":275893,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice","volume":"13 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127947217","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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