发布求助
文献互助 智能选刊 最新文献

Film Fashion & Consumption最新文献

筛选
英文 中文
HBO’s Euphoria and the complexities at play in the costumed representations of contemporary masculinities HBO的《欣快感》(Euphoria)，以及当代男性化服饰表现中的复杂性
IF 0.2
Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2022-11-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00047_1
L. Betts
{"title":"HBO’s Euphoria and the complexities at play in the costumed representations of contemporary masculinities","authors":"L. Betts","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00047_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00047_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article discusses the language of screen costume and representations of masculinity via a close reading of the successful and critically acclaimed 2019 HBO drama series Euphoria. It considers three key characters, Rue, Nate and Fez, and how each of these characters makes visible certain cultural and sociological ideologies which concern and influence current debates around diverse masculinities, social class and creative subjectivity. It is argued that the production team behind Euphoria employs creative acts of appropriation to articulate and explore the diversity of masculine lived experience within the restricted language of television. This is evidenced through the character of ‘Rue’, who sits in opposition to all other characters identified as feminine or transitioning in both narrative context and, significantly, costuming. ‘Rue’ is therefore explored as the masculine articulation and/or manifestation of the creator – Sam Levinson’s subjective position. ‘Nate’ is explored in relation to the currency of damaging stereotypes of dominant masculinity within television drama and how misconceptions around gendered identities work to reinforce, perpetuate and normalize problematic behavioural traits. It is suggested that we need to expand understandings of ordinary clothing or costume as a language, how meaning is articulated within this language and how the materiality of ordinary or unexceptional dress evolves and mutates and becomes a set of unquestioned yet dangerous symbols or significations. ‘Fez’ will be examined in response to Henri Lefebvre’s 1960s ideas around moments of contestation, alongside a discussion of the role that the body and clothing play in marking out or positioning ideas around the intersection of social class and masculinity which can be applied to differing, global manifestations of social hierarchies. Readings of ‘Fez’ highlight middle-class insecurities around subjective value and distance from working-class experience and are played out through the character’s costuming.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"68 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-11-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89086307","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
‘Now you are one of us’: Mafia fashion on-screen “现在你是我们中的一员了”:银幕上的黑手党时尚
IF 0.2
Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2022-11-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00045_1
Rebecca Bauman
{"title":"‘Now you are one of us’: Mafia fashion on-screen","authors":"Rebecca Bauman","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00045_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00045_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article examines the role popular media have played in disseminating images of mafia fashion. Through the representation of criminal apparel on-screen spectators are encouraged to identify with the societal transgressions of the mafioso, engendering an abiding fascination with mafia style. By looking at Italian and Italian American productions from early silent cinema through contemporary television crime series, menswear becomes a primary means of harnessing spectatorial desire and identification that embraces enduring associations that link southern Italian identity with criminality and style. In the analysis of these texts it becomes apparent how costuming communicates a series of semiotic properties that reflect the complex interplay of masculine identities in an environment based on violence, power and appearance.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"2 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-11-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"72767073","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
‘Who wants the pressure of being super all the time?’: Mid-century modern fashions and their influence on costume development in The Incredibles and Incredibles 2 “谁想一直承受超级巨星的压力?”:《超人总动员》和《超人总动员2》中中世纪的现代时尚及其对服装发展的影响
IF 0.2
Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00041_1
Maarit Kalmakurki, Marley Healy
{"title":"‘Who wants the pressure of being super all the time?’: Mid-century modern fashions and their influence on costume development in The Incredibles and Incredibles 2","authors":"Maarit Kalmakurki, Marley Healy","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00041_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00041_1","url":null,"abstract":"In this article, we examine period fashions in character costumes in the two Pixar/Disney computer-animated films, The Incredibles and Incredibles 2. These films have a strong mid-century modern design influence interwoven into the films’ narratives and aesthetic\u0000 designs. The films have previously raised interest in fashion studies, due to their superhero concept. However, an analysis of the characters’ everyday dress is also valuable for understanding the influence of fashion and pop culture references on contemporary animated film costuming\u0000 and how those elements embed within the technological development of digital characters’ clothing. We employ historical and visual analysis to highlight the integration of design elements of period-appropriate fashions into character costumes. Additionally, we examine the relationship\u0000 between animation software development and the films’ design aesthetics to inspect how technological advancements support the behaviour of cloth, narrative progression and characters’ personal emotional arcs by reviewing industry articles as well as animator and designer interviews\u0000 from the making of the films. This is a unique case study that explores the influences and inspiration of period-specific fashion in constructing costumes for computer-animated films, which are ostensibly set in an environment also inspired by the period and specific cultural zeitgeist.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"39 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85678928","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Embodying female dissent in Sanditon: The case of Esther Denham’s two bodies 《桑迪顿》中女性异议的体现:以斯帖·德纳姆的两具尸体
IF 0.2
Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00040_1
Boel Ulfsdotter
{"title":"Embodying female dissent in Sanditon: The case of Esther Denham’s two bodies","authors":"Boel Ulfsdotter","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00040_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00040_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article discusses the visual representation of Esther Denham, one of the female characters in Sanditon (2019, ITV, PBS), from the point of view of her displayed sartorial narrative, in relation to postmodern gender politics and female subjectivity. It argues that only a\u0000 post-heritage adaptation of Jane Austen’s unfinished book manuscript would allow for such a narratological transposition of one of its characters into an outright Goth-inflected screen persona, characterized by outright dissent, interrogation, subversion, self-consciousness and ambiguity.\u0000 The article foregrounds the crucial importance of Esther Denham’s embodied dress practice to get this message across by pointing out its necessarily diachronic screen costume rationale based on clothing items that are historically correct but which also resonate iconicity in our own\u0000 time.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"28 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87971367","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Meeting the expectations of western consumers on the Romanian film Beyond the Hills by Cristian Mungiu 满足西方消费者对由克里斯蒂安·蒙吉执导的罗马尼亚电影《山外》的期望
IF 0.2
Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00039_1
Ulrike Ettinger, B. Schrödl
{"title":"Meeting the expectations of western consumers on the Romanian film Beyond the Hills by Cristian Mungiu","authors":"Ulrike Ettinger, B. Schrödl","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00039_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00039_1","url":null,"abstract":"The film Beyond the Hills (Cristian Mungiu, 2012, RO, FR, BEL) is set in a convent struggling with major financial problems in post-transitional Romania, where a deadly exorcism is being performed. The story is based on a true incident. Accordingly, the cinematic language operates\u0000 through the means of realism. Nevertheless, at the level of the images, art historical traditions, contemporary design tendencies and current fashion trends are drawn upon to give the monastery a simple and timeless beauty. This transforms the monastery into a place of longing for the cinema\u0000 audience. The film costume plays a special role in this. It contributes in a particular way to identification processes, invokes the sacred and connects with the upmarket consumer culture of contemporary lifestyle-movements.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"54 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"72644951","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Emotional rescue: A review essay of E/MOTION. Fashion in Transition, temporary exhibition, MoMu Fashion Museum, Antwerp, 4 September 2021‐23 January 2022 情感救援:E/MOTION综述。转型中的时尚，临时展览，MoMu时尚博物馆，安特卫普，2021年9月4日至2022年1月23日
IF 0.2
Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00037_4
G. Roberts
{"title":"Emotional rescue: A review essay of E/MOTION. Fashion in Transition, temporary exhibition, MoMu Fashion Museum, Antwerp, 4 September 2021‐23 January 2022","authors":"G. Roberts","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00037_4","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00037_4","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"31 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88977593","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Female fashion in the Franco era and the Imágenes magazine programme 佛朗哥时代的女性时尚和Imágenes杂志节目
IF 0.2
Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2022-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00038_1
Ana Melendo
{"title":"Female fashion in the Franco era and the Imágenes magazine programme","authors":"Ana Melendo","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00038_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00038_1","url":null,"abstract":"An analysis of the documentaries made for the magazine programme Imágenes in the historical archives of the NO-DO newsreels, used by the Franco dictatorship as an instrument of propaganda, can shed light on some important aspects of Spain’s recent history. The aim\u0000 of this article is to demonstrate how these documentaries, which exhibit certain formal features suited to the spectator of their time, make fashion an effective instrument for conveying ideas of gender differences and female servility, self-denial and submission in a patriarchal regime.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"1 4-5","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"72493569","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Worn: Footwear, Attachment and the Affects of Wear, Ellen Sampson (2020) 《磨损:鞋类、依恋和磨损的影响》，艾伦·桑普森(Ellen Sampson, 2020)
IF 0.2
Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00035_5
Clare M. Wilkinson
{"title":"Worn: Footwear, Attachment and the Affects of Wear, Ellen Sampson (2020)","authors":"Clare M. Wilkinson","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00035_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00035_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Worn: Footwear, Attachment and the Affects of Wear, Ellen Sampson (2020)\u0000London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 250 pp.,\u0000ISBN 978-1-35008-718-7, h/bk, £70","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"66706586","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
From research to practice: The talking frocks1 从研究到实践:会说话的连衣裙
IF 0.2
Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00033_7
Sue Harper
{"title":"From research to practice: The talking frocks1","authors":"Sue Harper","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00033_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00033_7","url":null,"abstract":"This article reviews my academic research on costume design in film, and introduces a number of my short stories on dress and adornment. The article argues that research and creative work are more closely allied than is often thought, and that they can share approaches, methods and discourses.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41975574","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
TikTok teens: Turbulent identities for turbulent times TikTok青少年：动荡时代的动荡身份
IF 0.2
Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2021-10-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00031_1
L. Rogers
{"title":"TikTok teens: Turbulent identities for turbulent times","authors":"L. Rogers","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00031_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00031_1","url":null,"abstract":"Through the examination of two subcultural fashion trends spawned on the micro-vlogging platform TikTok, this article will consider how the mythic functions of the archetypal ‘clown’ and ‘rebel’ have been redeployed by Generation Z TikTok users in an attempt to push back against prevailing beauty ideals. These short-form film performances reveal the specular world-view of a demographic that is as used to being watched as it is watching others. The bulk of TikTok’s content revolves around viral trends; dances that spread by mimesis, hashtags that agglomerate universally relatable human experiences and the usual aspirational travel and fashion material. Those that break away from this mould find themselves in algorithmically led micro-communities (self-termed ‘core aesthetics’), which form satellites around more popular content forms and occasionally gain virality themselves for their freakishness or downright surrealism. The ‘clown’ and ‘rebel’ are still seen as liminal characters in the social space – affording them certain freedoms from the visual dominance of celebrity culture but also requiring certain compromises; existing at the fringes is, by definition, to be excluded and ‘othered’.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46537619","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
首页 上一页 下一页 尾页
0
×
引用
GB/T 7714-2015
复制
MLA
复制
APA
复制
导出至
BibTeX EndNote RefMan NoteFirst NoteExpress
×
提示
您的信息不完整，为了账户安全，请先补充。
现在去补充
×
提示
您因"违规操作"
具体请查看互助需知
我知道了
×
提示
现在去查看 取消
×
提示
确定
请完成安全验证×
相关产品
×
本文献相关产品
联系我们：info@booksci.cn Book学术提供免费学术资源搜索服务，方便国内外学者检索中英文文献。致力于提供最便捷和优质的服务体验。 Copyright © 2023 布克学术 All rights reserved.
京ICP备2023020795号-1
ghs 京公网安备 11010802042870号
Book学术文献互助
Book学术文献互助群
群 号：481959085
Book学术官方微信