HBO的《欣快感》(Euphoria),以及当代男性化服饰表现中的复杂性

IF 0.3 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY
L. Betts
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引用次数: 0

摘要

本文通过仔细阅读2019年广受好评的HBO电视剧《欣快》,讨论了屏幕服装的语言和男性气概的表现。它考虑了三个关键人物,Rue, Nate和Fez,以及这些人物如何使某些文化和社会学意识形态可见,这些意识形态关注并影响当前围绕不同男性气质,社会阶级和创造性主体性的辩论。有人认为,Euphoria背后的制作团队采用创造性的挪用行为,在电视的有限语言中阐明和探索男性生活经验的多样性。这一点通过“Rue”这个角色得到了证明,她与其他所有被认为是女性或过渡的角色在叙事背景和服装上都是相反的。因此,“Rue”作为创作者Sam Levinson的主观立场的男性表达和/或表现而被探索。《内特》探讨了电视剧中男性主导地位的破坏性刻板印象的流行,以及围绕性别身份的误解如何强化、延续和正常化有问题的行为特征。有人建议我们需要扩大对普通服装或服装作为一种语言的理解,如何在这种语言中表达意义,以及普通或普通服装的物质性如何演变和变异,并成为一套毋庸置疑但危险的符号或意义。“Fez”将被审视,以回应亨利·列斐弗尔(Henri Lefebvre)在20世纪60年代围绕争议时刻的想法,同时讨论身体和服装在标记或定位社会阶级和男子气概的交叉点方面所起的作用,这些思想可以应用于不同的全球社会等级表现。对《非斯》的解读凸显了中产阶级对主观价值和与工人阶级经验的距离的不安全感,并通过角色的服装表现出来。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
HBO’s Euphoria and the complexities at play in the costumed representations of contemporary masculinities
This article discusses the language of screen costume and representations of masculinity via a close reading of the successful and critically acclaimed 2019 HBO drama series Euphoria. It considers three key characters, Rue, Nate and Fez, and how each of these characters makes visible certain cultural and sociological ideologies which concern and influence current debates around diverse masculinities, social class and creative subjectivity. It is argued that the production team behind Euphoria employs creative acts of appropriation to articulate and explore the diversity of masculine lived experience within the restricted language of television. This is evidenced through the character of ‘Rue’, who sits in opposition to all other characters identified as feminine or transitioning in both narrative context and, significantly, costuming. ‘Rue’ is therefore explored as the masculine articulation and/or manifestation of the creator – Sam Levinson’s subjective position. ‘Nate’ is explored in relation to the currency of damaging stereotypes of dominant masculinity within television drama and how misconceptions around gendered identities work to reinforce, perpetuate and normalize problematic behavioural traits. It is suggested that we need to expand understandings of ordinary clothing or costume as a language, how meaning is articulated within this language and how the materiality of ordinary or unexceptional dress evolves and mutates and becomes a set of unquestioned yet dangerous symbols or significations. ‘Fez’ will be examined in response to Henri Lefebvre’s 1960s ideas around moments of contestation, alongside a discussion of the role that the body and clothing play in marking out or positioning ideas around the intersection of social class and masculinity which can be applied to differing, global manifestations of social hierarchies. Readings of ‘Fez’ highlight middle-class insecurities around subjective value and distance from working-class experience and are played out through the character’s costuming.
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来源期刊
Film Fashion & Consumption
Film Fashion & Consumption HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.40
自引率
50.00%
发文量
6
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