Film Fashion & Consumption最新文献

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Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2023-10-11 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00055_7

引用次数: 0

‘Fashion, you’re incomprehensible!’ Teenage girls, Jackie magazine and fashion as a negotiated social statement in the early 1970s “时尚，你真是不可理喻!”20世纪70年代初，十几岁的女孩、杰姬杂志和时尚作为一种协商的社会声明

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Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2023-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00052_1

J. Knowles

{"title":"‘Fashion, you’re incomprehensible!’ Teenage girls, Jackie magazine and fashion as a negotiated social statement in the early 1970s","authors":"J. Knowles","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00052_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00052_1","url":null,"abstract":"The hugely popular girls’ magazine Jackie (1964–93) was a significant source of guidance for its readers on a range of matters, including fashion. This article analyses archive editions of Jackie held in the Femorabilia collection at Liverpool John Moores University to re-examine its fashion content during a period marked by a shift in emphasis from creativity to consumption. It also revisits Angela McRobbie’s highly influential research on Jackie, arguing that Jackie’s fashion coverage fulfils a broader social role than simply supporting the ‘ideology of femininity’ that McRobbie’s contemporaneous work identifies as central to the magazine. Examining issues from 1973 to 1974 illuminates a period which is more nuanced than is often suggested, and which is marked by both continuity and also substantial change. Jackie’s depiction of early 1970s girlhood shows the necessity of negotiating public space for teenage girls. Its fashion content represents the balance of moderation, experimentation and adaptability offered by the Jackie reader’s self-presentation. Findings demonstrate the heterogeneous meanings on offer in the magazine: while Jackie readers are urged to show restraint in engaging with fashion, they are also encouraged to explore the wider world, dressed and ready for it.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"127 10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79586228","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

1960s Bombay stars and fashion cultures: The queens in our hearts 20世纪60年代孟买明星和时尚文化:我们心中的女王

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Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2023-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00051_1

S. Bhattacharya

引用次数: 0

‘… sure to delight every ballet fan’: Consuming ballet culture through girls’ periodical Girl, 1952–60 “……肯定会让每一个芭蕾舞迷高兴”:通过女孩期刊《女孩》(Girl)了解芭蕾舞文化，1952-60年

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Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2023-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00050_1

M. Gibson

{"title":"‘… sure to delight every ballet fan’: Consuming ballet culture through girls’ periodical Girl, 1952–60","authors":"M. Gibson","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00050_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00050_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article focuses on the ways that ballet was presented for girl readers to consume in Girl (Hulton Press, 1952–64). Girl was a weekly publication, part of girls’ periodical culture in Britain, which was thriving in the 1950s and 1960s. The ballet content it contained was one aspect of the growing British cultural engagement with ballet in the mid-twentieth century. This broader engagement included watching films and attending performances. In addition, for younger participants, especially girls, this may have been accompanied by participation in ballet classes and reading ballet fiction and non-fiction. Girl encompasses all these forms of engagement with ballet through key fictional comic strip ‘Belle of the Ballet’, photographs of performances, pin-ups featuring dancers and paintings about ballet, articles and non-fiction companion volumes. Arnold Haskell, significant in changing how ballet was understood in Britain, was also involved with content in Girl. This connection resulted in readers having the opportunity to compete for an annual ballet scholarship and participate in ballet lessons. In exploring ballet in Girl, the article draws together considerations of how ballet practice, costume, other media involving ballet and dancers’ street clothes were portrayed and the ways that class, ballet and girls’ culture were intertwined.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"2 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87584392","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Bollywood self-fashioning: Indian popular culture and representations of girlhood in 1970s Indian cinema 宝莱坞自我塑造:20世纪70年代印度电影中的印度流行文化和少女时代的表现

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Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2023-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00053_1

S. J. Raj, Adith K. Suresh

{"title":"Bollywood self-fashioning: Indian popular culture and representations of girlhood in 1970s Indian cinema","authors":"S. J. Raj, Adith K. Suresh","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00053_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00053_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article investigates how Bollywood cinema represented girlhood experiences in India in the early 1970s. It argues that the films during this time focused on representing girls who displayed a variety of new fashion styles and attitudes, some of which were borrowed from western cultures. This was a sign that there was a new way of representing girls which broke with the submissive, dull and melancholic sari-wearing Indian female stereotype entrapped within domestic settings. The immediate result of this was the emergence of new style leaders and popular icons in Indian popular cinema. This study uses Stephen Greenblatt’s concept of self-fashioning and Guy Mankowski’s idea of self-design to examine how Indian girlhood was renegotiated in the 1970s as an individual-centric idea with more agency and power. Here, self-fashioning refers to the way girls adopt new elements of fashion, styles and attitudes to distinguish their identity from earlier archetypal modes of representation in film and culture. It specifically analyses the emergence of Jaya Bhaduri in Guddi (1971) and Dimple Kapadia in Bobby (1973) as case studies to understand the transformation of girlhood representations in early 1970s Bollywood that opened a new space for girls to redefine their selfhood through the assimilation of consumerism, western culture and fashion styles.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"206 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"80410679","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Narratives and legacies of 1960s Vogue Italia covers on contemporary Italian young women 20世纪60年代《Vogue》意大利版封面对当代意大利年轻女性的叙述和遗产

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Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2023-04-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00054_1

Eleonora Noia, Silvia Mazzucotelli Salice, Antonella Capalbi

{"title":"Narratives and legacies of 1960s Vogue Italia covers on contemporary Italian young women","authors":"Eleonora Noia, Silvia Mazzucotelli Salice, Antonella Capalbi","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00054_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00054_1","url":null,"abstract":"The article investigates the legacy, in terms of narratives and representations of femininity, of Vogue Italia covers from the 1960s and 1970s on contemporary Italian young women. To do this, we visually and textually analyse two different corpora: 143 Vogue Italia covers, retrieved from the Vogue Italia Archive and published between 1964 (Vogue’s first publication in Italy) and 1974 and between 2020 and 2022; and 46 mock covers of fashion simulated magazines created by female undergraduate fashion students during the academic years 2020/2021 and 2021/2022. Through the first corpus we examine the hegemonic discourse of Vogue Italia, assuming that it expresses the typical Italian way of creating and expressing female fashion while reflecting the shifting ideologies of the Italian feminist movement over the last century; the second corpus reveals the imaginations and narratives of young girls on fashion, disclosing how women’s – and girls’ – identities have been shaped over time and how the standards for femininity, beauty, happiness and health have been transferred and reworked from one generation to the next. In our study the parallel investigation between the longitudinal analysis of the visual apparatus Vogue Italia and the covers produced by students shows, first, elements of continuity and similarity in the communicative and instrumental use of fashion, according to the practice of remixing. Second, it demonstrates that students assimilated successfully the narrative codes typical of traditional fashion communication media but they reinterpret the imagery and representations disseminated, thus bringing into the public discourse issues such as sustainability, gender, diversity, body positivity and stereotypes. Therefore, the study also reveals that girls have always been more than simple passive consumers of fashion magazines and cultural products.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"26 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"91010755","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

The mad kings of The Royals: Fashioning transgressions in royal popular culture television 皇室的疯狂国王:皇室流行文化电视中的时尚越轨行为

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Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2022-11-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00044_1

L. Hackett, J. Coghlan

引用次数: 0

From nonosh to pasha: The belated debut of queer men in contemporary Turkish popular culture 从nonosh到pasha:酷儿男人在当代土耳其流行文化中的迟来的首次亮相

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Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2022-11-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00048_1

Deniz Gurgen Atalay, Nilay Ulusoy

{"title":"From nonosh to pasha: The belated debut of queer men in contemporary Turkish popular culture","authors":"Deniz Gurgen Atalay, Nilay Ulusoy","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00048_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00048_1","url":null,"abstract":"The historical drama series, The Club (2021–22), narrating the story of a nightclub at the centre of Istanbul nightlife during the 1950s, achieved great success by becoming the eighth most-watched non-English-language series on an international digital streaming platform. The significant public affirmation the series gained rose on the representation of the leading character – the nightclub star. He directly refers to respected queer singer Zeki Müren (1931–96). Müren has been credited as the greatest performer in Turkey and a modern male icon with his artistic excellence in singing and his outstanding stage performances for over 40 years. He designed his own costumes as well as those of his musicians, the décor for his performances and the choreography of the dancers. Müren appeared on his stage in black tuxedos, suits with sparkling accessories or even mini-skirts with platform shoes. He was aware of the taboos on homosexuality and how this might have affected him. Although his sexuality was in question, his sex never was. He was, after all, an exemplary male citizen of the Turkish Republic with his kindness to his audience, his charity works, his artistic status. Many fans, including the media, referred to him as a pasha, a heroic military commander, to express that he was the most influential artist in Turkey. The referential association of the fictional character with Zeki Müren will be interpreted in the article to further discuss the portrayal of the queer performance in the series. For this purpose, the article will introduce the conceptualization of nonosh, a polite yet explicit contempt, and present an embraceable form of queer identity in Turkish society to define the common portraiture of queer in Turkish popular films and TV shows.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"76 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-11-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87291867","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

‘Be a real man for our motherland’: Masculinity and national security in Chinese Korean War films “为祖国做一个真正的男人”:中国朝鲜战争电影中的男子气概与国家安全

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Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2022-11-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00043_1

Xiang Gao

{"title":"‘Be a real man for our motherland’: Masculinity and national security in Chinese Korean War films","authors":"Xiang Gao","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00043_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00043_1","url":null,"abstract":"There has been increasing societal discussion and criticism on the ‘lack of masculinity’ among Chinese young men. In response, the Chinese Ministry of Education in 2021 advised schools to ‘foster the students’ masculinity’. The Chinese National Radio and Television Administration also set strict rules for casting and choosing performing styles, custom and makeup in order to eliminate the ‘abnormal aesthetic’ and the ‘male feminization’ in Chinese television, film and advertisement. At the same time, various war films and television shows present characters and circumstances that highlight an ‘ideal’ masculine archetypes as well as the quality of a Chinese male character – patriotism, heroism, selflessness, strength, loyalty and intelligence. This article examines and compares the male images in two Chinese Korean War films, Shangganling and Changjinhu. It analyses the changing portrayal of male war characters based on three levels of analysis, namely nationhood, leadership and individuals. This study argues that the ‘masculinity crisis’ has led to the securitization of Chinese masculinity, a process and outcome driven by the Chinese government’s continued efforts to control and channel the broad social and cultural changes which have impacted popular culture, sexuality, gender and women’s rights and roles across Chinese society over the past several decades.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"19 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-11-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"81879505","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Let the music play: ‘Hipsters’ and heteronormative fashion 让音乐响起:“潮人”和异性恋时尚

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Film Fashion & Consumption Pub Date : 2022-11-01 DOI: 10.1386/ffc_00046_1

Alla Myzelev

{"title":"Let the music play: ‘Hipsters’ and heteronormative fashion","authors":"Alla Myzelev","doi":"10.1386/ffc_00046_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ffc_00046_1","url":null,"abstract":"The article examines how fashion assists in emphasizing heteronormativity in the musical film Hipsters (2008). The film is about the first countercultural phenomenon in the Soviet Union – Stiliagi. Predominantly men, these young people adapted different styles of dress, language, behaviour and dance that they felt was closely copying the styles of western cultures such as Teddy Boys. While the movement that started in the late 1940s and continued to the early 1960s included heterosocial behaviour, the film that presumably recreates the affective feeling of the culture distorts the history to spotlight heterosexuality and the search for individual freedom. It argues that given that historically and currently, the association between fashion and masculinity in the Russian culture is understood as effeminate, the film had to create clear heteronormative relationships between the male and female protagonists while emphasizing fashion and consumption. The article demonstrates how the film works within post-Soviet ideology by comparing the use of fashion in the film and the historical data about the actual Stiliagi movement of the 1950s. By negating the heterosocial and heterosexual relationship, the film created an artificial understanding of the Soviet culture. It follows the official ideological doctrine of creating nostalgia for the simpler yet somewhat stifled life in the Soviet Union without attracting the audience’s attention to the repressions of the post-Stalin Soviet Union.","PeriodicalId":41071,"journal":{"name":"Film Fashion & Consumption","volume":"89 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-11-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"82235950","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1