‘Fashion, you’re incomprehensible!’ Teenage girls, Jackie magazine and fashion as a negotiated social statement in the early 1970s

IF 0.3 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY
J. Knowles
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引用次数: 0

Abstract

The hugely popular girls’ magazine Jackie (1964–93) was a significant source of guidance for its readers on a range of matters, including fashion. This article analyses archive editions of Jackie held in the Femorabilia collection at Liverpool John Moores University to re-examine its fashion content during a period marked by a shift in emphasis from creativity to consumption. It also revisits Angela McRobbie’s highly influential research on Jackie, arguing that Jackie’s fashion coverage fulfils a broader social role than simply supporting the ‘ideology of femininity’ that McRobbie’s contemporaneous work identifies as central to the magazine. Examining issues from 1973 to 1974 illuminates a period which is more nuanced than is often suggested, and which is marked by both continuity and also substantial change. Jackie’s depiction of early 1970s girlhood shows the necessity of negotiating public space for teenage girls. Its fashion content represents the balance of moderation, experimentation and adaptability offered by the Jackie reader’s self-presentation. Findings demonstrate the heterogeneous meanings on offer in the magazine: while Jackie readers are urged to show restraint in engaging with fashion, they are also encouraged to explore the wider world, dressed and ready for it.
“时尚,你真是不可理喻!”20世纪70年代初,十几岁的女孩、杰姬杂志和时尚作为一种协商的社会声明
非常受欢迎的女子杂志《Jackie》(1964-93)在包括时尚在内的一系列问题上为读者提供了重要的指导。本文分析了利物浦约翰摩尔斯大学(Liverpool John Moores University) Femorabilia收藏的杰基(Jackie)的档案版本,以重新审视其在强调从创意转向消费的时期的时尚内容。它还回顾了安吉拉·麦克罗比(Angela McRobbie)对杰姬(Jackie)极具影响力的研究,认为杰姬的时尚报道履行了更广泛的社会角色,而不仅仅是支持“女性意识形态”,麦克罗比当时的作品认为这是该杂志的核心。研究1973年至1974年的问题,可以发现一个比通常认为的更微妙的时期,它的特点是连续性和实质性的变化。杰基对20世纪70年代早期少女时代的描述表明,为十几岁的女孩争取公共空间是必要的。它的时尚内容代表了适度、实验和适应性之间的平衡,这是Jackie读者自我展示的结果。调查结果显示了杂志提供的不同含义:虽然《杰姬》的读者被敦促在与时尚接触时表现出克制,但他们也被鼓励探索更广阔的世界,穿着得体,做好准备。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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来源期刊
Film Fashion & Consumption
Film Fashion & Consumption HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.40
自引率
50.00%
发文量
6
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