Narratives and legacies of 1960s Vogue Italia covers on contemporary Italian young women

IF 0.3 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY
Eleonora Noia, Silvia Mazzucotelli Salice, Antonella Capalbi
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引用次数: 0

Abstract

The article investigates the legacy, in terms of narratives and representations of femininity, of Vogue Italia covers from the 1960s and 1970s on contemporary Italian young women. To do this, we visually and textually analyse two different corpora: 143 Vogue Italia covers, retrieved from the Vogue Italia Archive and published between 1964 (Vogue’s first publication in Italy) and 1974 and between 2020 and 2022; and 46 mock covers of fashion simulated magazines created by female undergraduate fashion students during the academic years 2020/2021 and 2021/2022. Through the first corpus we examine the hegemonic discourse of Vogue Italia, assuming that it expresses the typical Italian way of creating and expressing female fashion while reflecting the shifting ideologies of the Italian feminist movement over the last century; the second corpus reveals the imaginations and narratives of young girls on fashion, disclosing how women’s – and girls’ – identities have been shaped over time and how the standards for femininity, beauty, happiness and health have been transferred and reworked from one generation to the next. In our study the parallel investigation between the longitudinal analysis of the visual apparatus Vogue Italia and the covers produced by students shows, first, elements of continuity and similarity in the communicative and instrumental use of fashion, according to the practice of remixing. Second, it demonstrates that students assimilated successfully the narrative codes typical of traditional fashion communication media but they reinterpret the imagery and representations disseminated, thus bringing into the public discourse issues such as sustainability, gender, diversity, body positivity and stereotypes. Therefore, the study also reveals that girls have always been more than simple passive consumers of fashion magazines and cultural products.
20世纪60年代《Vogue》意大利版封面对当代意大利年轻女性的叙述和遗产
这篇文章调查了20世纪60年代和70年代《Vogue》意大利版封面对当代意大利年轻女性的叙事和女性气质的表现。为了做到这一点,我们从视觉和文本上分析了两个不同的语料库:从Vogue意大利档案馆检索的143个Vogue意大利封面,出版于1964年(Vogue首次在意大利出版)至1974年以及2020年至2022年;以及2020/2021学年和2021/2022学年时尚类本科女生创作的46本时尚类模拟杂志封面。通过第一个语料库,我们考察了《Vogue》意大利版的霸权话语,假设它表达了典型的意大利创造和表达女性时尚的方式,同时反映了上个世纪意大利女权运动的意识形态变化;第二个语料库揭示了年轻女孩对时尚的想象和叙述,揭示了女性和女孩的身份是如何随着时间的推移而形成的,以及女性气质、美丽、幸福和健康的标准是如何代代相传的。在我们的研究中,对视觉设备《Vogue Italia》和学生制作的封面进行纵向分析的平行调查显示,首先,根据混音的实践,时尚在交际和工具使用方面的连续性和相似性元素。其次,这表明学生成功地吸收了传统时尚传播媒体的典型叙事代码,但他们重新诠释了所传播的图像和表征,从而将可持续性、性别、多样性、身体积极性和刻板印象等问题带入了公共话语。因此,研究也揭示了女孩一直都不是时尚杂志和文化产品的简单被动消费者。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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来源期刊
Film Fashion & Consumption
Film Fashion & Consumption HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.40
自引率
50.00%
发文量
6
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