{"title":"La revolución gastronómica peruana: una celebración de “lo nacional”. Entrevista a Mirko Lauer","authors":"Raúl Matta","doi":"10.4000/AOF.9982","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/AOF.9982","url":null,"abstract":"Mirko Lauer es escritor, periodista y critico cultural. Es uno de los autores peruanos mas prolificos en temas de gastronomia. Publico con Vera Lauer el libro “La Revolucion Gastronomica Peruana” (Universidad de San Martin de Porres, 2006), un estudio fundacional sobre lo que hoy se conoce como boom gastronomico. R.M.: Mirko, nos encontramos 12 anos despues de la publicacion del libro La Revolucion Gastronomica Peruana, que coescribiste con Vera Lauer ?Como podriamos dar un repaso a o iniciar...","PeriodicalId":254027,"journal":{"name":"Anthropology of food","volume":"86 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129061442","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Peru on a Plate: coloniality and modernity in Peru’s high-end cuisine","authors":"J. López-Canales","doi":"10.4000/AOF.10138","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/AOF.10138","url":null,"abstract":"As global dining culture turns increasingly homogeneous, there is a parallel interest in reconnecting with locality. Two global food movements codify this return to the local: the Slow Food and New Nordic Cuisine movements, both European in origin. I explore the characteristically modernist global-local ambivalence in the work of Virgilio Martinez, Peru’s most highly awarded chef, whose project of bringing together a culturally rooted Peruvian cuisine appears closely aligned to the New Nordic Cuisine movement. Drawing on a decolonial framework, I argue that Martinez’s desire to connect with Peru’s ancestral cultural roots, not uncommon amongst upper-class Peruvian chefs, is hindered by an epistemic divide dating back to colonial times. Further vestiges of colonial history are also present in Martinez’s taxonomic search for new ingredients and the visual focus of his aesthetic, both reminiscent of the Spanish botanical expeditions of the late 18th century. Martinez’s latest project, Mil Centro, a restaurant and research centre located in an Inca archaeological site, offers new possibilities. The participatory involvement of neighbouring Quechua-speaking communities could signal new openings.","PeriodicalId":254027,"journal":{"name":"Anthropology of food","volume":"86 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114593211","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Integradora y excluyente: el rol de la gastronomía en la Urbanización Santa Cruz (Lima, Perú)","authors":"N. Consiglieri","doi":"10.4000/AOF.10031","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/AOF.10031","url":null,"abstract":"En este articulo me propongo estudiar los discursos y practicas generados alrededor de la gastronomia en el Peru y su presencia en un espacio particular: la urbanizacion Santa Cruz, en el distrito de Miraflores, Lima. Desde hace unos doce anos, la zona esta dando un giro comercial caracterizado por la creacion de negocios, principalmente restaurantes y tiendas de diseno, orientados a un publico externo con mayor capacidad de consumo que la de sus vecinos. Ello viene acelerando un proceso de gentrificacion validado a traves de discursos y practicas celebratorias en torno al boom gastronomico y su rol en la reivindicacion de la diversidad cultural del pais. De esta manera, la gastronomia genera discursos y practicas ambivalentes en torno a la inclusion y la multiculturalidad en el Peru.","PeriodicalId":254027,"journal":{"name":"Anthropology of food","volume":"30 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133875019","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Savoring Nostalgia: Food and the Past in Peru’s “La Casa de Don Cucho”","authors":"A. Hall","doi":"10.4000/AOF.10106","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/AOF.10106","url":null,"abstract":"This article situates nostalgia as part of the current gastronomic boom and gastro-politics currently at play in Peru. Although recent emphasis on gastronomy as a national economic development plan is clearly rooted in neoliberal themes of entrepreneurship and marketization, idealized notions of the past are being invoked not only to foster food entrepreneurship but also a critical food politics. Drawing primarily on the work of Kathleen Stewart and Alberto Flores Galindo, this paper highlights two types of nostalgia currently at work in the food boom. The first situates the past as a potentially profitable commodity from which to build profit and prestige while the second invokes the past to critique modernity’s ruins. Consequently, nostalgia should not be dismissed as mere romanticism but rather a potentially political act rooted in current realities of loss and suffering, wielded to conjure a new way of being in the world.","PeriodicalId":254027,"journal":{"name":"Anthropology of food","volume":"5 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133236411","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"El boom gastronómico peruano: entre moda y promesas incumplidas. Entrevista a Isabel Álvarez","authors":"Raúl Matta","doi":"10.4000/AOF.9987","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/AOF.9987","url":null,"abstract":"Isabel Alvarez es chef y propietaria del restaurante El Senorio de Sulco (Miraflores, Lima), sociologa e investigadora de las cocinas regionales del Peru. Colabora frecuentemente con la Universidad de San Martin de Porres (Lima) y asociaciones locales enfocadas a la preservacion de la biodiversidad alimentaria. Recientemente ha dirigido una investigacion sobre establecimientos de comida tradicional llamados chicherias y picanterias, cuyo resultado ha sido publicado bajo el titulo Picanterias ...","PeriodicalId":254027,"journal":{"name":"Anthropology of food","volume":"52 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133289198","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"“Nikkei Food” for Whom? Gastro-Politics and Culinary Representation in Peru","authors":"Ayumi Takenaka","doi":"10.4000/AOF.10065","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/AOF.10065","url":null,"abstract":"Peru is undergoing a gastronomic “boom.” The government, together with the private sector, actively promotes “its” food as an engine of growth and national unity and branding. One key component of this gastro-politics is the emergence of elite gastronomy, such as Nikkei food. Broadly defined as Peruvian and Japanese fusion food, Nikkei food is celebrated as emblematic of the nation’s immigration history and rich ethnic diversity. Today, it is arguably the most successful subgenre of Peruvian food to have made its mark in the global culinary market. How has Nikkei food “made it,” and who is behind the process? In this paper, I examine Peru’s gastro-politics in explaining the emergence and success of Nikkei food, focusing on the role of elite chefs and the Japanese-Peruvian community. Drawing on document and historical analysis, as well as field research in Lima, I argue that a key lies in how different actors promoted “their” food within the framework of Peru’s gastro-diplomacy--namely, (1) how Peru’s gastro-elites promoted Peruvian food globally, mostly through gourmet fusion food, (2) how the Japanese-Peruvian community capitalized on it by promoting Nikkei food as their own, and (3) how different actors came together in defining Peruvian gastronomy as “fusion” made up of diverse culinary traditions. Nikkei food has succeeded, partly because of its association with Japanese food, already popular in the global culinary market, and partly because of the resources and status of Lima’s prosperous Japanese-Peruvian community; but what also mattered was Peru’s gastro-politics, of how Peru’s gastronomy was promoted, by whom, and for whom.","PeriodicalId":254027,"journal":{"name":"Anthropology of food","volume":"11 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115643320","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"From Farm to Table : productive alliances as a pathway to inclusive development in Peru","authors":"Heidrun Kollenda","doi":"10.4000/AOF.9992","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/AOF.9992","url":null,"abstract":"Peru’s gastronomic ascent has been a source of national pride and a motor for the local economy: providing new sources of employment and a pathway to inclusive development. At the heart of the gastronomic discourse are productive alliances, farm-to-table schemes that aim to revalue the role of farmers by (re)connecting excluded farmers with the urban gastronomy sector. This paper examines how the normative principles of productive alliances manifest at gastronomy festivals and are implemented in the day-to-day sourcing practices in Limenian restaurants and at farmer markets. Data from field research in Lima shows that the discourse on productive alliances and strong public and private support has led to a higher awareness of social and environmental concerns within the local food system. Yet, direct sourcing relationships remain the exception and are hindered by infrastructure problems, lack of information and quality concerns. To substantially contribute to inclusive development, the gastronomy discourse requires a stronger emphasis on structural factors and spatial exclusion.","PeriodicalId":254027,"journal":{"name":"Anthropology of food","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115084279","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Memory has added seasoning","authors":"Alex Ketchum","doi":"10.4000/aof.9904","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/aof.9904","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":254027,"journal":{"name":"Anthropology of food","volume":"49 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-04-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116426594","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"La mise en application d’un règlement de protection animale au regard de la structuration des abattoirs français","authors":"F. Jourdan, François Hochereau","doi":"10.4000/AOF.9742","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/AOF.9742","url":null,"abstract":"Le processus d’industrialisation a transforme les abattoirs jusqu’a aboutir a deux modeles relativement distincts : des grands sites prives qui ne cessent d’accroitre leur volume d’abattage et des petits etablissements a faible production qui assurent un service de prestation dans une localite donnee. La mise en œuvre du reglement de protection animale n°1099/2009 pourrait accentuer la fragilite socioeconomique des petits abattoirs en raison des travaux de renovation qu’elle exige. Ce faisant, elle renforcerait la concentration industrielle des abattages et, par extension, la sur-rationalisation des grands abattoirs. Or, la protection animale necessite de transcender les rigidites structurelles et de replacer la relation de travail homme-animal au centre des organisations. En la matiere, les petits abattoirs pourraient beneficier d’un avantage sur les plus grands a condition d’etre soutenus, en particulier sur le plan financier.","PeriodicalId":254027,"journal":{"name":"Anthropology of food","volume":"310 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-03-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124407712","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Mettre en scène la vente de la viande","authors":"Sylvain Leteux","doi":"10.4000/AOF.9702","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.4000/AOF.9702","url":null,"abstract":"Avant 1858, la boucherie est une activite ou les efforts de decoration et de presentation des viandes sont faibles et rares. Avec la democratisation de la consommation de la viande de boucherie et le developpement de la concurrence commerciale, les bouchers parisiens vont developper de multiples strategies pour embellir leur boutique et mettre en scene les pieces de viande. Les contraintes reglementaires et hygieniques ont ete habilement utilisees et parfois detournees pour renforcer l’attractivite du magasin. Le mode de stockage et de presentation des viandes evolue avec l’arrivee du froid mecanique (glacieres) puis du froid electrique (frigorifiques). A partir des annees 1930, les techniques de parage et les grands etalages atteignent un degre de sophistication extreme et constituent un element important de l’identite professionnelle des bouchers parisiens et francais.","PeriodicalId":254027,"journal":{"name":"Anthropology of food","volume":"27 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-03-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125509901","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}