International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Simultaneous morphological analysis of large numbers of hair cross sections as a tool for investigation of population-level trends","authors":"Marina Richena,&nbsp;Alasdair Noble,&nbsp;Kim Parker,&nbsp;Ranjit K. Bhogal,&nbsp;David Messenger,&nbsp;Stefan Clerens,&nbsp;Duane P. Harland","doi":"10.1111/ics.13057","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13057","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Characterizing the fibre properties of individuals with different hair textures across several ethnicities is important for understanding how hair shape varies within and between groups, and how these may influence consumer needs. Here, we present a high-throughput scanning electron microscope (SEM) method for simultaneous measurement of cross-sectional single hair shape parameters from hundreds of hairs per sample, which has not been feasible previously. We demonstrate the power of the method through application on a population with diverse hair types.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Scalp hairs were collected from individuals located in the United States of America. Each hair sample (consisting of up to several hundred fibres) was classified using two different methods, one during clinical collection [hair texture Types 1–4] and later another blind standard laboratory method [hair curliness classification Types I–VIII]. Additional clinical data were collected on age and self-identified ethnicity. Hair shape parameters (cross-sectional area, ellipticity, shape factors) were measured using a SEM sample preparation, imaging and image analysis method. SEM data were analysed with respect to clinical texture, age and self-identified ethnicity and subsequent hair curliness classifications.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The SEM method generated sufficient data from each sample to identify trends, and we found some statistically significant differences between SEM hair shape parameters and clinical sample types, as well as with laboratory curliness classifications. In the curliness classification, there was an expected tendency between hair curliness and aspect ratio: curlier hairs were more elliptical than straight hairs. In terms of the hair grouping types, in the age group, older individuals had thinner hairs than young ones. In the texture group, individuals in Texture Type 1 had thinner hairs than Texture Types 2, 3 and 4. Texture Types 3 and 4 had hairs with a more elliptical profile than individuals in Texture Types 1 and 2.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The SEM method was reliable to quantify cross-sectional hair parameters within populations of donors with different types of hair. This approach corroborates clinically assessed hair type and curliness classification systems and provides a more thorough characterization of hair shape variation between and within individuals and ethnicities.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"676-690"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-03-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13057","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143752663","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Subvisible microscale texture is present on the crista cutis of the skin and interacts with incident light to create a soft and radiant ‘shitsukan’ appearance","authors":"Tatsuya Omotezako,&nbsp;MyriamRubecca Rodrigues,&nbsp;Neo Eleanor,&nbsp;Yu Wang,&nbsp;Georgina Wee,&nbsp;Berwyn Chong,&nbsp;Akira Matsubara","doi":"10.1111/ics.13064","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13064","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Previous studies have reported the existence of various topographic structures on the skin surface at different scales: visible and subvisible structures. Surface topography regulates the light reflection profile, and the relationship between light diffusion and human perception, such as soft appearance, has been well studied in the manufacturing industry. However, our understanding of how skin surface topography controls the optical properties of the skin surface and the appearance remains limited.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Two human studies were conducted involving healthy East Asian females. The topography of their skin was evaluated by measuring roughness parameters on skin replicas and roughness attributes on stripped corneocyte samples. These topographical attributes at different scales were compared with their perceived skin appearance, characterized by softness and radiance. Additionally, a novel image analysis algorithm to measure Crista cutis surface reflection (CSR) was developed to assess light reflection on their skin surface. The correlations of light reflection on the skin surface with these skin topographic parameters were also analysed.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Through skin replica observations, attributes of subvisible microscale texture on the surface of the crista cutis were defined. This texture showed significant correlations with light diffusion on the skin surface measured as CSR, and this CSR strongly correlated with soft skin appearance and radiant skin appearance. However, neither macro-topography nor surface roughness on corneocytes showed a clear correlation with these skin attributes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Subvisible microscale texture on the skin's surface is not visible to the naked eye. However, this structure plays a crucial role in regulating the optical properties of the skin's surface, which in turn leads to tangible differences in skin appearance.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"691-702"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-03-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13064","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143752668","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Understanding the dandruff flare-up: A cascade of measurable and perceptible changes to scalp health","authors":"Kathryn C. S. Locker,&nbsp;Robert A. Bacon,&nbsp;Tamara L. Caterino,&nbsp;Laurie Breyfogle,&nbsp;Derrick Johnston Alperet,&nbsp;Pradipta Sarkar,&nbsp;Melissa Piliang,&nbsp;Michael G. Davis","doi":"10.1111/ics.13067","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13067","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Clinical studies assessing the dandruff condition typically focus on the therapeutic resolution of the signs and symptoms of dandruff, starting with a symptomatic scalp as a baseline. The reverse, the progression of events leading to a scalp flare-up after stopping the use of an anti-dandruff (AD) shampoo, is poorly understood. This study explored onset time and progression of the signs and symptoms of dandruff in individuals who stop using an AD shampoo.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This randomized, double-blind, parallel design study recruited self-identified, scalp-concerned adults. After a 2-week run-in with an AD shampoo, participants were randomized into two groups: The first continued using the AD shampoo and the second switched to a cosmetic (non-AD) shampoo. At baseline and defined intervals over the 28-day study period, objective measures of scalp condition were investigated: expert-assessed flaking, scalp impedance, and biomarkers. These were combined with self-assessments of scalp condition. A Stochastic Mixed-Effect Random Forest (SMERF) machine-learning algorithm was explored to model time-varying technical measurements and daily self-assessment responses from participants.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Switching from an AD shampoo to a non-AD shampoo resulted in increased scalp <i>Malassezia</i> load, degree of flaking, barrier disruption, and inflammatory and oxidative stress biomarkers compared to those maintaining AD shampoo usage. Signs of declining scalp condition (histamine, complement component C3) were observed as early as 3 days after ceasing AD shampoo usage despite no statistical increase in flaking (ASFS) until around 3 weeks of using a non-AD shampoo. These changes were accompanied by self-perceived itching and flaking, reported to be significantly worse in those using the non-AD shampoo compared to the AD shampoo at the end of the study. No statistically significant increase from baseline was observed for any objective measure in the AD shampoo group. In the SMERF model, markers of inflammation, oxidative stress, and <i>Malassezia</i> load were predictive of self-perceived scalp attributes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>For the first time, a comprehensive understanding of changes that occur as scalp condition goes from asymptomatic to dandruff-affected has been established. For scalp-concerned individuals, regular, sustained use of an AD treatment promotes optimal scalp health. When switching to a non-AD shampoo, scalp health dete","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"703-717"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-03-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13067","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143752670","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Combination of liquid- and solid-phase extraction followed by achiral and chiral high-performance liquid chromatography as an efficient and sensitive method for determination of panthenol in personal care products","authors":"Andrea Špačková,&nbsp;Barbora Šimková,&nbsp;Katarína Hroboňová","doi":"10.1111/ics.13058","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13058","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This work deals with the development of an analytical method for the analysis of body milk, cream, and oil. The objective is to develop a reliable, sensitive, and reproducible method suitable to assess the content of dexpanthenol in personal care products and to confirm the declared enantiomeric form.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Optimization of conditions for the extraction of panthenol from personal care products was carried out for the detection and quantification of panthenol and its enantiomers by achiral and chiral high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with spectrophotometric detection. Polarimetric and circular dichroism detection in chiral HPLC were also used for the confirmation of enantiomeric forms of panthenol.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Optimal extraction media, chloroform:water 1:3 (v:v) for liquid-phase extraction and NH₂ type adsorbent for solid-phase extraction have been selected. A combined extraction procedure was useful for the treatment of complex fat cosmetic samples, achieving recoveries of 83.1%, 88.2%, and 83.0% for body milk, cream, and oil, respectively (RSD &lt; 1.6%). The achiral HPLC method with a C18 type stationary phase and acetonitrile:water (10:90, v:v) as a mobile phase, and the chiral HPLC method with an amylose tris(3,5-dimethylphenylcarbamate) stationary phase and a mobile phase composed of <i>n</i>-hexane and ethanol (60:40, v:v) were used for the analysis of extracts.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The proposed extraction procedure is compatible with both the reversed-phase and normal-phase liquid chromatographic systems and is applicable in the analysis of a wide group of personal care products. The <span>d</span>-enantiomeric form (dexpanthenol) was detected in tested samples. The content of dexpanthenol in body milk, cream, and oil samples was found to be 0.2%–1.5%, 0.04%–0.7%, and 0.01%–0.03%, respectively.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"665-675"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-03-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143614878","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Protective effects of Paeonia suffruticosa callus extract in skin through anti-inflammation and repair UVB-induced damage","authors":"Yufan Li,&nbsp;Jiejun Han,&nbsp;Rongyue Gong,&nbsp;Yuankun Liu,&nbsp;Yu Zhou,&nbsp;Tiangui Gong,&nbsp;Bin Wang,&nbsp;Laidi Zhang,&nbsp;Shuodan Li,&nbsp;Jiayue Chen","doi":"10.1111/ics.13055","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13055","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The study investigated effects of peony callus extracts (PCE) on the protective efficacy against Ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoageing, using in vitro and in vivo studies. The research focused on PCE's ability to protect against inflammatory factors, DNA damage and accumulation of senescent cells, along with the evaluation of the extract's potential anti-photoageing benefits to skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells), mast cells and fibroblasts were used to evaluate the role of PCE in anti-photoageing. The expression of genes of <i>interleukin-1α (IL-1α)</i>, <i>IL-6</i> and transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (<i>TRPV1</i>) were tested in HaCaT cells. The histamine contents in mast cells were tested to evaluate the effect of PCE on soothing skin. Additionally, the repairment of PCE on DNA damage stimulated by UVB using comet assay was evaluated. In fibroblasts, the gene expression of <i>matrix metalloproteinases</i> (<i>MMPs</i>) and the activity of β-galactosidase were tested. In vivo test, 13 healthy volunteers were enrolled to apply a formula with 1% PCE to assess the variation in inner skin collagen contents.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The callus from an ancient and rare variety of tree peony (<i>Paeoniaceae</i> family) was successfully induced, and its ingredients were extracted. The PCE could significantly downregulate inflammation factors such as <i>IL-1α</i>, <i>IL-6</i> and <i>TRPV1</i> in HaCaT cells, and <i>MMPs</i> in fibroblasts which could cause the collagen degradation induced by UVB. Meanwhile, UVB-induced DNA damage was alleviated by PCE. The analysis of histamine content in mast cells revealed that PCE effectively alleviated skin sensitivity. Furthermore, the clinical trials validated a significant increase in total collagen content in vivo, following 28 days of continuous application of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% PCE measured by Raman confocal spectroscopy technology.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The PCE could downregulate the gene expression of inflammatory factors, indicating the ability of DNA repair. The number of senescent cells was also decreased after UVB stimulation. Furthermore, the results of in vivo study showed that PCE was an ideal cosmetic ingredient for promoting collagen levels.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"652-664"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-03-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13055","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143614879","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Formulation and evaluation of alternative to beeswax for vegan lipsticks","authors":"Manuela Loiacono,&nbsp;Luigi Padovano,&nbsp;Miryam Chiara Malacarne,&nbsp;Simone Conti,&nbsp;Enrico Caruso","doi":"10.1111/ics.13060","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13060","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Honeybees' success is strictly linked to the chemical and application properties of their products: honey, beeswax (BW), venom, propolis, pollen and royal jelly. Among these products, BW, a natural compound secreted by bees, is particularly valued for its stability and is widely used in cosmetics for make-up and skincare production or in dermatology to produce creams. In recent years, there has been a growing awareness of the critical role these insects play in the ecosystem. Animal-derived ingredients are controversial and borderline with consumers' necessities. Therefore, whenever possible, similar ingredients from other sources are sought. The demand for vegan products is a global trend that influences all segments of consumer behaviour, including the choice of cosmetics. Given the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly products, BW, commonly used in lipstick formulations, needs to be replaced with a vegan alternative. In this paper, we report the development of a completely vegan lipstick. To predict the behaviour of structuring wax in a complex system, a compatibility study of the ABWAX® MIMIC BEESWAX MK, a vegan beeswax alternative (vBWA), with oils and colours was performed. The ABWAX® MIMIC BEESWAX MK and ABWAX® WHITE BEESWAX F.U. demonstrated similar thermal characteristics and penetration curves, showing overall comparable performances in finished products. We can conclude that ABWAX® MIMIC BEESWAX MK could be an innovative and highly effective alternative to animal-derived waxes in cosmetics.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"626-638"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-03-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13060","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143604739","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"New insights into hair compartments swelling via atomic force microscopy and dynamic vapour sorption","authors":"Steven Breakspear,&nbsp;Bernd Noecker,&nbsp;Crisan Popescu","doi":"10.1111/ics.13061","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13061","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Preliminary investigations into the swelling of human hair upon absorbing moisture have been performed to better understand the roles of the various hair morphological subcompartments and their response to moisture.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The isotherms of moisture sorption exhibited by hair were recorded via Dynamic Vapour Sorption (DVS) for separated cuticle and for cortex. Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) imaging and nanoindentation were used to follow the changes in measured distances on the same areas of cuticle layers and cortex cells from a single fibre cross section, and to evaluate the change in these distances with changes in relative humidity.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The data acquired by DVS moisture sorption and by AFM for the various morphological components of the hair fibre allowed for the evaluation of their swelling. The values were then used for estimating the cross-linking density of each morphological component. A relationship between the mechanics of the cortex and the cuticle of the fibre and their cross-linking density values was found to follow logarithmic-like dependencies. The size of the crosslink meshes at 90% RH was also evaluated and found to be of the length of the stretched disulfide bond.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The analysis of hair swelling provides information on the crosslinks inside the fibre. The models used for calculating the crosslink density and the size of the meshes, as well as the relationship suggested graphically between the crosslinking density values and Young's Modulus, point to cystine as the decisive factor in the swelling process; the different amounts of cystine in each morphological component lead to different values of their crosslinking density and to their differing responses to mechanical stress.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"639-651"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-03-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143604741","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Carbonylation of hair proteins: A robust biomarker of molecular and structural oxidative damage in hair fibres","authors":"Camille Grosjacques,&nbsp;Sabine Babiel,&nbsp;Jing Hodes,&nbsp;Anais Bobier,&nbsp;Andrea Cavagnino,&nbsp;Martin Baraibar","doi":"10.1111/ics.13052","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13052","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Objective&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;The first objective of this study is to compare two molecular markers, cysteic acid and protein carbonylation, to track the level of chemical oxidation and photochemical (UV) oxidation of human hair. The second objective is to investigate how the protein carbonylation biomarker evolution is associated with physical characteristics of the fibre. The third objective is to understand the damage localization within the hair sub-structure.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Materials and Methods&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;For the chemical oxidation study European natural hair 6/0 (medium brown) is treated with non-pigmented commercial hair colour mixture and hair bleaching in increasing chemical oxidation conditions. For the photochemical study two European natural hair colours, 4/0 (dark brown) and 9/0 (extra light blond) are gradually photo irradiated. Molecular changes are investigated through cysteic acid measurement by NIR spectroscopy and protein carbonylation measurement; Biophysical changes by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and tensile strength measurements. Carbonyls are labelled with a specific fluorescent probe and measured in gel electrophoresis and in situ through image analysis and densitometric quantification after protein extraction respectively.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Results&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;The two molecular markers, cysteic acid and protein carbonylation, increase similarly in both chemical and photochemical oxidation cases and show a good level of association across the oxidation levels. The fibre physical characteristics (DSC, Tensile Strength) decrease while the protein carbonylation and cysteic acid increase. The in situ visualization of the protein carbonylation shows a high impact on the hair cuticle and a gradual increase of photo-oxidation through the cortex, phenomenon which is more prominent for the extra light blonde hair in the case of photochemical oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;The protein carbonylation biomarker is validated as another key molecular marker to monitor oxidative chemical changes in the hair chemical groups. It complements the cysteic acid, and appears more suitable in the case of photochemical oxidation, where it offers clear advantages over cysteic acid by being more sensitive and accurate, and by allowing in situ distinct damage visualization. Besides cysteic acid, amino acids such as proline, threonine, arginine, lysine, and peptide bonds are targets of oxidation. Under photochemical oxidation, the photoprotective effect of melanin is confirmed.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"604-625"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-02-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13052","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143457810","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Mastering the formulation of an unstable vitamin C (VC) as anti-aging skin care ingredient. Part I: A new approach","authors":"Muriel Isoir-Ingrez,&nbsp;Anne Falip,&nbsp;Naima Yousfi,&nbsp;Laurence Arnaud-Sebillotte,&nbsp;Bruno Biatry,&nbsp;Florence Leroy,&nbsp;Pamella H. Wang,&nbsp;Jean-Thierry Simonnet","doi":"10.1111/ics.13050","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13050","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To develop a stabilized 12% pure Vitamin C-based serum at a pH close to that of the skin for use in anti-aging.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Material and Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>At acidic pH (&lt;3), under oxidative conditions, the ascorbate anionic form of VC rapidly undergoes transformations leading to a Xylosone by-product, resulting in important chemical losses of VC. Buffering the ascorbate anionic moiety with alkaline agents largely decreases its transformation and the loss of VC. The use of a cationic polymer (Polyquaternium 67, PQ67) enables binding of the ascorbate anion by creating an ionic network, at pH 6 and slows down the slight yellowing of the serum.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>By exposing this complex to a temperature of 45°C for a two-month period, more acceptable degradation was obtained, with less VC chemical loss (approx. 5%–10%). Although a slight yellowish colour developed, it was found non redhibitory through consumer tests. As a result, such combination still leaves an important concentration of pure VC (over 10%) likely able to express its efficacy as anti-aging ingredient. Further refinements of this association were performed to reach adequate organoleptic properties of the formula, in view of a future clinical test, as proof of performance of VC efficacy at pH 6.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The stabilized formulation of VC at a pH close to that of the skin, apt at being tested in vivo, offers new possibilities for skin anti-aging routines strategy, by avoiding too acidic conditions (∼pH 3 or below) in daily use cosmetics and thereby allowing better tolerance and an increased adherence of the consumers.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"597-603"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-02-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143448874","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The potential use of the standardized Euterpe oleracea (açaí) seed extract in cosmetic products","authors":"Camila Guimarães Moreira Zimmer,&nbsp;Melina Heller,&nbsp;Evelyn Cristina da Silva Santos,&nbsp;Cristina Setim Freitas,&nbsp;Patricia Oliveira Benedet,&nbsp;Jarbas Mota Siqueira,&nbsp;Rodrigo Marcon,&nbsp;João Batista Calixto","doi":"10.1111/ics.13053","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13053","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The açaí (<i>Euterpe oleracea</i>), a palm tree fruit native to the Amazon region, holds significant potential for various applications in food, therapeutics and cosmetics. However, the seeds of the açaí fruit, known to contain numerous antioxidants, are discarded and frequently cause environmental pollution. Therefore, this study aimed to explore the potential application of açaí seeds standardized extract (TI-35) as a cosmetic product.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Açai seeds were obtained from a commercial source. Following the extract preparations and phytochemical identification and quantification of the main constituents present in the extract (TI-35), several in vitro studies were performed using human cell line cultures. TI-35 was evaluated on cell viability (human keratinocytes, fibroblasts and melanocytes), proliferation (keratinocytes), antioxidant activity (keratinocytes and fibroblasts), melanin content (melanocytes), metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) activity and tyrosinase inhibition assays. Skin irritation was assessed using a reconstructed human epidermis and mutagenic potential was evaluated, according to the OECD 439 and OECD 471, respectively.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A total of 14 phytochemical constituents, mainly phenolic compounds, were identified and quantified in the standardized extract TI-35. It demonstrated excellent long-lasting stability and exhibited intrinsic antioxidant activity surpassing that of ascorbic acid. At low concentrations (up to 10 μg/mL), TI-35 did not change cell viability or proliferation. However, the TI-35 decreased basal reactive oxygen species production and produced pronounced scavenging and antioxidant effects. Notably, TI-35 caused inhibition of MMP-1 and its effect was more pronounced when compared with either ascorbic acid or ferulic acid, highlighting its pro-aging property. In addition, TI-35 did not interfere with melanin levels or have skin irritation effect and has no mutagenic activity, providing a solid assurance of the safety of the standardized extract from the seeds of <i>E. oleracea</i> for cosmetic use.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The standardized extract TI-35, sourced from <i>E. oleracea</i> seeds, a by-product of the Amazon food industry, demonstrated noteworthy pharmacological properties when assessed in vitro, including antioxidant, photoprotective, soothing and sagging effects. Thus, TI-35 emerges as a potential and safe option for the development of innovative cosmetic products.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"563-584"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-02-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143440769","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}