International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Effect of low humidity on the barrier functions of keratinocytes in a reconstructed human epidermal model","authors":"Yukiko Izutsu-Matsumoto,&nbsp;Yuri Okano,&nbsp;Hitoshi Masaki,&nbsp;Yoshihiro Tokudome,&nbsp;Tokuro Iwabuchi","doi":"10.1111/ics.13048","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13048","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Dry skin occurs in the winter season when the relative humidity is low; however, the mechanism by which low humidity induces dry skin is not fully understood. To develop measures against dry skin in winter, understanding early changes in the skin upon exposure to low humidity is essential. This study employed a reconstructed human epidermal model (RHEM) to understand these changes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The stratum corneum (SC) of RHEM was exposed to low-humidity air for 1 h, and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and the penetration rate of lucifer yellow (LY) were measured. mRNA level expression of each target protein and the amounts of ceramides in RHEM were quantified using real-time PCR and LC-EIS/MS/MS, respectively. Protein localization in RHEM was visualized using immunostaining.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Upon exposure to low humidity for 1 h, TEWL and LY penetration in the SC of RHEM were elevated. Even though there was no change in the amount of ceramides, the expression of cornified cell envelope (CCE) component proteins such as filaggrin (FLG) and loricrin (LOR) decreased. Furthermore, free SH and SS crosslink in SC of RHEM exposed to low humidity was decreased, and the SC became less hydrophobic. In tight junctions that contribute to barrier function, cloudin1 (CLDN1) and ZO-1 decreased upon exposure to low humidity.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Low humidity induces immature differentiation of the skin at an early stage characterized by corneocytes with CCE in fragile structures and reduced expression of tight junction proteins. Thus, it can be inferred that repeated exposure to dry air results in the repetition of these initial reactions, ultimately resulting in dry skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"523-534"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143399078","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Effects of under-eye skin and crow's feet on perceived facial appearance in women of five ethnic groups","authors":"Bernhard Fink,&nbsp;Remo Campiche,&nbsp;Todd K. Shackelford,&nbsp;Rainer Voegeli","doi":"10.1111/ics.13045","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13045","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Age-related skin changes in the periorbital region caused by intrinsic (e.g. atrophy of collagen and fat) and extrinsic (e.g. sun exposure) factors, including skin wrinkling, hyperpigmentation, dark circles and lateral canthal lines (‘crow's feet’), are a concern for women. We investigated the impact of under-eye skin and crow's feet on perceptions of women's faces in different ethnic groups.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Facial images of women (<i>n</i> = 180) from five ethnic groups were rated for age, health and attractiveness by naïve assessors of the same ethnic group (<i>n</i> = 120). Digital image analysis was used to quantify visible skin characteristics in two facial regions, that is, under the eyes (colour, gloss, tone evenness and wrinkles) and in the crow's feet region (wrinkles only). Skin image measurements were used to predict face ratings in the full sample and separately by ethnicity.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Ethnic differences were detected for measurements of skin colour, gloss, tone evenness and wrinkles – the latter under the eyes and in the crow's feet region. Correlational and regression analysis indicated a major role of wrinkles (both regions) in predicting rated age, health and attractiveness from the facial portraits across ethnic groups, with some variation in the types or the predictive magnitude of skin characteristics.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The predictive utility of under-eye wrinkles and crow's feet for rated age, health and attractiveness correspond to women's reported concern with under-eye bags, dark circles and crow's feet. Despite some ethnic differences in these features, their impact on women's facial appearance ratings is similar across ethnic groups.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"510-522"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13045","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143399079","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Rising consumer demand for green cosmetics: The necessity of an ecotoxicological score in the cosmetic industry","authors":"M. Guillaume,&nbsp;L. Guillemin,&nbsp;S. Pirnay","doi":"10.1111/ics.13051","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13051","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The increasing demand for eco-friendly cosmetic products, along with tightening environmental regulations, necessitates a comprehensive evaluation of the environmental impact of cosmetic formulations. This study aims to develop an ecotoxicological scoring system, specifically designed for cosmetics, to quantify the ecological risk of product ingredients. This tool will assist industry professionals in selecting ingredients with lower environmental impacts while complying with safety and sustainability requirements.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Key ecotoxicological parameters were assessed, including acute and chronic aquatic toxicity, biodegradability and bioaccumulation potential. Each ingredient's impact was evaluated using these parameters, and a scoring system was developed to simplify the interpretation of complex ecotoxicological data.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The scoring system is based on a set of formulas designed to quantify the ecotoxicological impacts of substances used in cosmetic products. These formulas incorporate various ecotoxicological factors, including biodegradability, aquatic toxicity and impacts on the food chain. Each criterion is weighted according to its environmental significance, leading to a final score that synthesizes the potential harmfulness of a substance. While this model remains theoretical, it provides a solid foundation for rapid and reliable assessments of products in the design phase.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This ecotoxicological scoring system offers a new approach to assessing the environmental impact of cosmetics. It simplifies the decision-making process by providing clear and accessible data on the ecological risk of formulations. The application of this tool can lead to more sustainable product development and contribute to reducing the cosmetic industry's environmental footprint.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"535-541"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143399082","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Camellia saponin modulates oleic acid/linoleic acid-induced lipogenesis in human sebocytes through lipophagy activation","authors":"Kaibo Wan,&nbsp;Jian Li,&nbsp;Ling Ma,&nbsp;Timson Chen,&nbsp;Ya Chen,&nbsp;Zhizhen Li,&nbsp;Christos C. Zouboulis,&nbsp;Guang-Li Wang,&nbsp;Jing Wang","doi":"10.1111/ics.13047","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13047","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Oily skin not only threatens people with aesthetic and hygienic discomfort but also confronts them with annoying skin problems. To explore new skin care ingredients from herbal or plant extracts and understand their underlying mechanism for sebum control would assist in the discovery of desirable sebosuppressive agents, though it is still a deserving and challenging task.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Aim</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To explore the effect of Camellia saponin (CS) on modulating the lipogenesis of human sebocytes. Moreover, to explore the underlying mechanism of CS on oleic acid/linoleic acid (OL) mixture stimulated lipid accumulation.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The lipid accumulation model of cells was constructed by OL-induction in vitro. The lipid synthesis in SZ95 sebocytes was detected by Oil Red O, Nile Red and BODIPY staining and the distribution of lipid droplets and autophagosomes were evaluated by transmission electron microscopy (TEM). Fluorescence staining, immunofluorescence and western blot (WB) were used to characterize the spatial localization of lipid droplets (LDs)/autophagosome/lysosome, the levels of LC3 and P62 proteins related to intracellular autophagy, as well as the pH of lysosome.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>CS treatment significantly relieved OL-induced lipid accumulation in SZ95 sebocytes. Furthermore, CS maintained lysosomal acid environment to promote the fusion of autophagosome and lysosome, thus recovering the OL-induced blockage of autophagy flow. We also found that CS activated AMPK, and down-regulated mTOR in SZ95 sebocytes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>CS was able to relieve OL-stimulated sebum accumulation in cultured human SZ95 sebocytes through lipophagy, in which process CS maintained lysosomal acid environment and activated the AMPK/mTOR pathway.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"497-509"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143023378","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Efficacy of a topical live probiotic in improving skin health","authors":"Rohit Jain,&nbsp;Abigail L. Voss,&nbsp;Jessica Del Rosario,&nbsp;John D. F. Hale","doi":"10.1111/ics.13043","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13043","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Introduction</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p><i>Micrococcus luteus</i> is a commensal bacterial member of the human skin and is essential in keeping the balance among the various microbial flora of the skin. <i>M. luteus</i> strain Q24 or BLIS Q24™ was isolated from the skin of a healthy human adult and is known to produce a unique antimicrobial spectrum that is inhibitory towards pathogens associated with skin diseases. It has been developed as a probiotic with potential applications in improving overall skin health.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study aimed to evaluate the perceived changes in skin quality following topical application of a formulation containing skin commensal probiotic BLIS Q24™.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A 28-day study involving 96 participants with self-reported normal skin with occasional blemishes or breakouts, topically applied a serum formulation containing BLIS Q24™ to the face. Participants quantitatively evaluated the probiotic serum effect on their skin at baseline Day 0 and then again on Day 10, 20 and 28 of the application. In addition, participants maintained a photo diary to record the perceived changes to their skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A total of 96 participants completed this research. In comparison to the baseline (Day 0), within 10 days, a significant reduction in blackheads (48%), oiliness (48%), blemishes (57%), dry areas (23%), redness/rosacea (45%) and flaky and rough skin (38%) were reported. The probiotic serum was also effective in a significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles (38%), whiteheads (41%), pimples (55%), age spots (29%), and acne (21%) by the end of 28 days of probiotic application. Overall, there's agreement that probiotic serum delivers or exceeds consumer expectations from the concept and performs just as well, or better, than their regular moisturizer.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>An approach of delivering a live probiotic packaged in an innovative formula to improve several skin conditions in otherwise healthy individuals was found to be successful. This study highlights that a serum formulation containing BLIS Q24™ has a positive impact on skin health. It is effective topically in reducing the appearance of skin blemishes, oiliness, wrinkles, redness, and dryness. BLIS Q24™ offers the potential for preventing skin health-related issues and routine maintenance of skin microbiome for healthy skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"488-496"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143004988","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Clear scalp, clear mind: Examining the beneficial impact of dandruff reduction on physical, emotional and social wellbeing","authors":"A. Newton-Fenner,&nbsp;H. Roberts,&nbsp;M. Scott,&nbsp;T. Jones,&nbsp;L. Collins,&nbsp;A. Godbehere,&nbsp;T. Giesbrecht","doi":"10.1111/ics.13041","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13041","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Objective&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Dandruff is a common scalp condition characterized by the chronic shedding of large clumps of epidermal cells. Alongside negative physical symptoms, dandruff is thought to have a detrimental impact on individuals' mental health. The aim of this study was to determine whether the clinical benefits of using an anti-dandruff shampoo (ADS) will result in improved psychological wellbeing in individuals suffering from dandruff. Further, this study aimed to investigate whether this improvement would manifest in changes in self-esteem and confidence behaviours.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Methods&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;A 4-week dandruff reduction intervention was implemented using a Piroctone Olamine ADS formulation. The control group continued to use their non-ADS. Self-evaluation metrics, including the Scalpdex, State Self-Esteem Scale and self-perceived hair and scalp characteristics questionnaires, were employed to measure changes in self-perceptions of hair and scalp health and psychological wellbeing. Following this analysis, the dataset was then combined with unpublished internal data of a similar intervention study using a Zinc Pyrithione ADS formulation. A mediation analysis was conducted on the combined data to examine the relationship between dandruff symptoms, emotions, and overall behavioural functioning.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Results&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;First, the ADS effectively reduced the clinical symptoms of dandruff. Second, Scalpdex scores indicated that the use of ADS, compared to non-ADS, lessened the adverse effects of dandruff on symptom perception and emotional distress. Third, the impact of dandruff on behavioural functioning diminished over time, and measures of confidence, scalp comfort and scalp health improved over time, irrespective of product type. Fourth, there was no change in measures of self-esteem for either shampoo. Subsequently, the mediation analysis revealed that across both studies, ADS treatment improved symptoms, emotional wellbeing, and functioning ratings on the Scalpdex questionnaire. Importantly, it also found that improvements in physical symptoms of dandruff improved behavioural functioning indirectly, via its mediating effect on scalp-related emotional wellbeing.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Conclusions&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;This study demonstrated that reducing dandruff's physical symptoms directly enhanced emotional well-being related to scalp and hair, and indirectly improved overall daily functioning. These findings suggest that addressing dandruff symptoms not only increases physical comfort ","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"466-475"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13041","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143004977","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Anti-skin aging effects of Gosori liquor lees extract by regulating interactions between senescent fibroblasts and adipose-derived stem cells","authors":"Jieun Woo,&nbsp;Hyanggi Ji,&nbsp;Kyungeun Jeon,&nbsp;Hongbae Kim,&nbsp;Sohyun Yoon,&nbsp;Yunhee Hwang,&nbsp;Eunae Cho,&nbsp;Deokhoon Park,&nbsp;Eunsun Jung","doi":"10.1111/ics.13046","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13046","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;p&gt;When cellular ageing is accelerated by various extrinsic/endogenous stimuli, regenerative function deteriorates, and enriched secretomes, such as the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), contribute to chronic inflammation and cause matrix degeneration. SASPs from senescent fibroblasts exacerbate cellular senescence via autocrine signalling and also accelerate skin ageing through the induction of neighbouring cell senescence via paracrine signalling. The interaction between dermis fibroblasts and their neighbours, adipose-derived stem cells (ADSCs) in the hypodermis, which lies deep in the dermis, is a potential target for skin ageing. In this study, we observed that an extract of the lees of Gosori liquor (GLE), a traditional Korean liquor made by fermenting millet and rice, suppressed the senescence of fibroblasts, including SASP production, in a replicative senescent model. We further examined whether the anti-ageing effects of GLE on fibroblasts affected the cellular senescence of their surrounding cells, ADSCs. The results showed that senescence factors in ADSCs were suppressed by culture medium from senescent fibroblasts (SF-CM) treated with GLE compared to the SF-CM-only treated group. Furthermore, the regenerative ability of ADSCs was promoted in the GLE-treated SF-CM group. ADSC migration was stimulated by upregulating the levels of α-smooth muscle actin, collagen type I alpha 2, and vascular endothelial growth factor expression through the PI3K/AKT pathway. Those results indicate that GLE can exert regenerative ability by regulating fibroblasts, and adipocyte interactions, improving cellular senescence. We conducted a clinical trial of subjects over 45 years of age to confirm the anti-ageing effects of GLE in vivo and observed changes in ageing parameters, such as skin wrinkles and volume on the face (IRB No. DM-IRB-2023-809-01-T1). The results showed that GLE-containing cream was more effective in improving skin wrinkles, elasticity, density, thickness, and volume around sunken eyes after 4 weeks of use than placebo. In conclusion, GLE plays an important role in inhibiting the ageing transition to ADSCs by inhibiting the senescence of fibroblasts and can be a promising anti-ageing strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lorsque le vieillissement cellulaire est accéléré par divers stimuli extrinsèques/endogènes, la fonction régénérative se détériore et les sécrétomes enrichis, tels que le phénotype sécrétoire associé à la sénescence (senescence-associated secretory phenotype, SASP), contribuent à l’inflammation chronique et provoquent la dégénérescence de la matrice. Les SASP des fibroblastes sénescents exacerbent la sénescence cellulaire via la signalisation autocrine et accélèrent également le vieillissement de la peau par l’induction de la sénescence des cellules voisines via la signalisation paracrine. L’interaction entre les fibroblastes du derme et leurs voisines, les cellules souches dérivées du tissu adipeux (adipose-derived stem cells, ","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"476-487"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143004882","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"In vivo efficacy of a stabilized Vitamin C-based serum at pH 6 on some ageing facial signs of women of different ages and phototypes","authors":"Muriel Isoir-Ingrez,&nbsp;Anna Veriato,&nbsp;Sara Figueiredo,&nbsp;Céline Cornillon,&nbsp;Sandra Hassler,&nbsp;Pamella H. Wang,&nbsp;Jean-Thierry Simonnet","doi":"10.1111/ics.13037","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13037","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To assess, clinically and instrumentally, the efficacy of a stabilized 12% Vitamin C (VC)-based serum (pH 6) on skin photoageing of women of various age and phototype.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Materials and Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Eighty women, with Phototypes I to VI, of various age (45–70y) living in Mauritius, participated in an open, uncontrolled study. After a two-week period of washout, they applied the Vitamin C-based serum twice a day for 2 months onto their whole face as well as a hydrating cream every evening to ensure a comparable skin hydration level in all subjects. At set time intervals (D0, D immediate, D14, D28 and D56), a local dermatologist graded eight facial signs by visual or tactile assessments, using a 0–9 structured scale. At each time interval, the facial skin was imaged by standardized technique (Colorface™) and through echography (Dermascan™) to record its thickness and density. Skin elasticity was recorded by a the Cutometer® device under a controlled suctional stress. A questionnaire was filled out by all subjects recording their self-assessments of the serum's effects and several organoleptic properties.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Compared with the baseline values (D0), the skin of all subjects showed progressive and significant changes in glow, tone evenness, radiance, firmness, softness and smoothness, associated with a reduction in fine lines. Deep wrinkles, only observed on 26 subjects, were found to be reduced. Self-assessments corresponded well with both clinical and instrumental results and indicated excellent skin tolerance. Ultrasound recordings exhibited significantly thicker and denser skin at D56.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>If certain changes in some skin facial signs (skin tone and related items, firmness, sagging…) are linked to the high concentration of VC, a complementary impact of increased skin hydration remains possible due to the glycerol present in the serum and hydrating cream. These significant performance results in vivo showed that a very acidic medium (∼pH 3) is not a prerequisite to an efficient VC cosmetic formula, as has long been accepted in the cosmetics industry. Such a low pH can fragilize the skin equilibrium over time. As second originality, the studied formula seemed to fit all phototypes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"424-433"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142948489","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Development and evaluation of a polymer material-based formulation for non-surgical nasolabial fold reduction","authors":"Masayuki Iida,&nbsp;Yoko Hanada,&nbsp;Yukihiro Miyazaki,&nbsp;Ayumi Shimpo,&nbsp;Kazue Tsukahara,&nbsp;Tomoko Yasu,&nbsp;Kosuke Takeda,&nbsp;Yuko Nagai","doi":"10.1111/ics.13038","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13038","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Currently, nasolabial folds are mainly removed by invasive procedures, resulting in long-lasting changes, as non-surgical user-implementable alternatives are scarce and inefficient. For example, the use of coating films for this purpose has thus far faced substantial difficulties because such films should combine the antithetical properties of shrinkability and flexibility. Herein, we challenge this status quo by identifying a polymer that simultaneously exhibits shrinkability and flexibility and using this polymer to develop a cosmetic formulation for immediate and non-invasive nasolabial fold removal.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The developed formulation, namely a solution of norbornene/tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylnorbornene copolymer in disiloxane, was tested on a group of Japanese women using visual evaluation, three-dimensional shape analysis and ultrasonography. The polymer film obtained upon drying the formulation was subjected to shrinkage and flexibility tests, and its synchronization with the skin was examined using optical microscopy. The free volume of the polymer films was evaluated using positron annihilation measurements and molecular dynamics simulations.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Upon application, the liquid formulation rapidly dries to produce a skin-synchronized polymer film that exhibits significant drying-induced shrinkage without cracking, thereby exerting a lift-up effect and inducing changes in the internal skin structure to efficiently reduce the nasolabial fold, providing a feeling of rejuvenation. On average, the proposed treatment decreases the nasolabial fold depth by 1 mm, increases the opening angle of the nasolabial fold by 11.5° and reduces the hypodermis thickness by 0.2 mm.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Our results facilitate the development of cosmetic products targeting the nasolabial fold and inspire further research in this field.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"434-446"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142948488","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Clinical efficacy of OS-01 peptide formulation in reducing the signs of periorbital skin aging","authors":"Alessandra Zonari,&nbsp;Lear E. Brace,&nbsp;Fanghua Li,&nbsp;Nathaniel H. O. Harder,&nbsp;Claire Harker,&nbsp;Carolyn Jacob,&nbsp;Joely Kaufman,&nbsp;Suneel Chilukuri,&nbsp;Carolina R. Oliveira,&nbsp;Mariana Boroni,&nbsp;Juliana L. Carvalho","doi":"10.1111/ics.13042","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13042","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The aging of the skin, particularly around the periorbital region, is a complex process characterized by the accumulation of senescent cells, decreased collagen production, and reduced skin elasticity, leading to visible signs such as fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study investigates the efficacy of a novel topical formulation, OS-01 EYE, containing the senomorphic peptide, OS-01, along with other active ingredients, in improving the skin around the eyes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A 12-week clinical study was conducted with 22 participants who applied OS-01 EYE twice daily. Assessments included bioinstrumental measurements of skin hydration, barrier function, firmness, and elasticity, as well as expert photographs grading fine lines, wrinkles, under-eye puffiness, and dark circles.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>After 12 weeks of product use, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) decreased by 17.33%, hydration increased by 32.49%, skin firmness improved by 10.19%, and elasticity increased by 25.58%, compared to baseline, which was all statistically significant. Expert grading revealed a decrease in fine lines and wrinkles, under-eye puffiness, and dark circles over the study period. Furthermore, subjective assessments showed that 95.46% of participants reported improvements in overall appearance.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The OS-01 EYE formulation was found to be safe and effective in mitigating the visible signs of aging in the periorbital region, making it a potent treatment option for enhancing periorbital skin health, function, and appearance.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"455-465"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13042","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142948446","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}