International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Internal structural changes in age-related curved hair due to cyclical extension: An IR spectroscopy study","authors":"Naoya Fuse,&nbsp;Yukako Matsue,&nbsp;Shigeaki Morita","doi":"10.1111/ics.13040","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13040","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study aimed to identify structural changes in age-related curved hair (referred to as “YUGAMI” hair in Japanese) induced by cyclical extension using infrared (IR) spectroscopy coupled with chemometrics, such as multivariate curve resolution (MCR) and two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (2DCOS).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The hair fibres were stretched at a strain level of 0.3-N, and this operation was counted as one cycle and was repeated 500 cycles. Every 25 cycles, IR spectra were obtained using an attenuated total reflection IR (ATR–IR) microscope. The spectra were analysed by MCR to investigate the structural changes of keratin protein inside of the hair. 2DCOS was conducted to investigate the genesis pathway of SO₃H in the 1000–1150 cm⁻¹ range and the change in the secondary structure of keratin protein of hair in the 1600–1700 cm⁻¹ range.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>For age-related curved hair, 0.3-N strain levels increased the CH₂ and C=O signals after 125 cycles and the SO₃H signal after 225 cycles, but no architectural modifications were observed in straight hair. Two results were obtained from 2DCOS. One was cyclical extension increased the S–SO₃H signal, followed by SO₃H signal. The other in the 1600–1700 cm⁻¹ range indicated an increase in the secondary structural motif and β-structure after the formation of SO₃H.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study shows that the process of internal transformations can be split into three steps in age-related curved hair caused by cyclical extension. The first step is the surface transfer of internal lipids, and the second step is two distinct patterns of disulfide bond cleavage: C–S and S–S fission. The final step is further transformation of the unravelled α-helices into β-structures which occurs above roughly 225 stretched. Our findings can be an effective factor in care the increase of curvature by cyclical extension such as everyday grooming.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"447-454"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142948462","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Reinforcing chemically treated human hair with citric acid","authors":"Daijiazi Zhang,&nbsp;Nawel Baghdadli,&nbsp;Andrew J. Greaves","doi":"10.1111/ics.13039","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13039","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The objective of this work was to conduct a systematic study to evaluate the performance of citric acid (CA), an example of a commonly used organic acid in hair cosmetics, on different types of chemically treated hair and to better understand how CA works.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Consumer-centric routines were used to prepare the chemically treated hair, namely high-lift bleached, middle-lift bleached, permanently coloured and a combination of permed and coloured hair. Hair was subsequently treated with CA and hair reinforcement was investigated by physical techniques: High Pressure Differential Scanning Calorimetry (HPDSC), Miniature Tensile Test (MTT), Cyclic Fatigue Tensile Test (CFTT) &amp; Micro X-ray Diffraction (μXRD) as well as chemical analysis (elemental, amino acids).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>CA treatment demonstrably enhances the structural integrity of chemically treated hair. DSC revealed increased crosslinking density of keratin-associated proteins (KAPs) in the hair cortex, evidenced by a 6.7% to 15.0% increase in denaturation temperature, varying with the specific chemical treatment. This improvement translates to enhanced mechanical properties, with tensile elastic modulus increasing by 7.5% to 23.5% and fatigue resistance (median cycles to break) improving by a remarkable 56% to 124%. Furthermore, CA treatment significantly reduced hair calcium levels by 21% to 42%. XRD analysis confirmed a reduction in the structure and quantity of crystallized calcium soaps following CA treatment. The observed performance improvements likely stem from a combination of mechanisms, including calcium chelation, the treatment's pH, and reinforcement of the non-covalent protein network. The precise interplay of these factors appears to be influenced by the type of pre-existing chemical treatment on the hair.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>CA effectively reinforces hair damaged by various common chemical treatments. However, these findings highlight the complex relationship between hair damage, chemical treatment type, and the efficacy of reinforcement strategies. The observed dependence of CA's performance on the level of pre-existing damage underscores the need for further research into developing targeted actives for consumers with specific and severe hair damage profiles. This opens exciting avenues for innovation in hair care tailored to individual needs.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 3","pages":"411-423"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142931645","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Non-acrylate UV-LED nail gel with high bio-renewable content based on hydrophobic organic-inorganic hybrid system","authors":"Tahereh Neda Hayeri,&nbsp;Vijay Mannari","doi":"10.1111/ics.13036","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13036","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The widespread utilization of nail gels in the cosmetic and beauty industry, with an anticipated market value of US $65.8 Million by 2026, has raised concerns about health risks associated with conventional compositions containing monomeric acrylate reactive diluents. Technical challenges, such as oxygen inhibition leading to incomplete cure and hence tackiness after curing, further complicate their application process. This study investigates UV-LED nail gels utilizing an innovative organic–inorganic hybrid (OIH) binder system, as the utilization of OIH coatings in nail gels has been scarcely, if at all, reported, with a substantial bio-based content (&gt;50%) without the use of any acrylate oligomer/monomers. By eliminating hazardous monomeric acrylates and addressing challenges related to free radical polymerization, the formulated nail gels achieve a 100% solid composition, free from VOC and HAPs, and possess significant bio-renewable content, ensuring safety, sustainability, and compliance with essential requirements.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"398-410"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142931639","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Cosmetic emulsions containing innovative complex coacervates: A cross-sectional study","authors":"Delaporte Adeline,&nbsp;Grisel Michel,&nbsp;Gore Ecaterina","doi":"10.1111/ics.13035","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13035","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Vitamin E, in the form of α-tocopherol (TOCO), is an essential lipophilic antioxidant widely used in topical formulations. However, incorporating pure TOCO into skincare products poses significant challenges due to its limited solubility and high sensitivity to heat, light and oxidation. The present cross-sectional study aimed to innovate by encapsulating TOCO using non-animal sustainable biopolymers through complex coacervation and to investigate the interaction of these coacervates with cosmetic emulsions, focusing on their impact on the emulsions' physicochemical properties and stability.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>TOCO was encapsulated using the complex coacervation technique by combining two biopolymers: fungal chitosan and gum Arabic. The designed microcapsules were incorporated into oil-in-water emulsions containing natural ingredients, and the physicochemical properties as well as the stability of the formulations were evaluated and compared to those of non-encapsulated TOCO emulsions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Innovative coacervates of the non-animal TOCO complex of 86.8 ± 3.5 μm were developed, achieving a high encapsulation efficiency and loading of 87.0% and 27.2%, respectively. The microcapsules exhibited thermal stability up to a temperature of 220°C and showed improved storage stability of the active ingredient when encapsulated. In particular, 63% of TOCO was retained over 2 months at a temperature of 40°C. Emulsions containing microcapsules showed increased particle size distribution, higher viscosity, and enhanced viscoelastic properties, in accordance with their textural properties. Both emulsions remained stable for a 1-month storage period at a temperature of 40°C, and no noticeable effect of coacervates on the stability of TOCO in the emulsions was observed.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study emphasises the potential of fungal chitosan-gum Arabic coacervates as a sustainable substitute for animal-derived coacervates, demonstrating promising outcomes for the encapsulation of lipophilic actives. When incorporated into cosmetic emulsions, these coacervates enhanced the textural and rheological properties while preserving the TOCO stability over time. These findings suggest that the developed microcapsules offer considerable potential for the development of future skin-care products with enhanced functional properties.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"383-397"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-12-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13035","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142882060","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"An integrated approach to address the biodegradability of cosmetic formulations as part of a corporate sustainability strategy","authors":"Cyro Hauaji Zacarias,&nbsp;Mayara Fregonezi Paludetti,&nbsp;Andréia Ávila Soares de Oliveira,&nbsp;Leonardo Bruno Federico","doi":"10.1111/ics.13033","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13033","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The biodegradability of organic chemicals with usual down-the-drain disposal in their end-of-life is a key parameter to be considered by industries pursuing sustainability in their new product developments. It is a property that, once improved in any formulated product portfolio, will allow for a significant reduction in the presence of its ingredients in the natural environment, with a potential reduction in the pollution-related environmental impact after consumption. This article aimed to propose an intelligent strategy for addressing biodegradability in the cosmetics sector, with the potential to support both product claims and corporate sustainability initiatives.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The framework for achieving a portfolio biodegradability indicator is composed of three levels of assessment, the first being an ingredient level assessment, the second being an individual product biodegradability calculation (PBI—Product Biodegradability Index), and finally a third level to calculate an emission-based, company-wide biodegradability indicator (GBI—Global Biodegradability Index). A case study is presented and discussed in detail, as a proof of applicability of the whole framework to support new developments for an improved environmental performance. Important insights in terms of ingredients assessment criteria are also presented.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A fictitious portfolio composed of two soaps (a bar and a liquid), two hair care products (shampoo and hair conditioner) and one bath oil resulted in a GBI of 92.8%. The bar soap was the main contributor for this global index, with a PBI of 98.8% and a relatively high consumption volume of 1 ton/year, which accounts for approximately 66% of the total portfolio consumption. Other products, like hair care, presented lower PBIs, but their lower mass consumption representativeness within the portfolio prevented a significant negative impact on the global index. The main strategic directions derived from the case study, to ensure a stable and high biodegradability of the consumed organic mass, were properly discussed.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The output of this framework provided an intelligent management strategy for innovation, where reformulation efforts can be targeted at products and ingredients with the highest potential to improve the biodegradability profile of the total organic mass released to the environment from a given portfolio.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"343-361"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142768481","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Preliminary safety and in vivo efficacy of Acmella oleracea extract-loaded glycolipid emulsion serum—Effects on ocular irritation, dermal absorption, and facial skin biophysical and microrelief properties","authors":"Sanela M. Savic,&nbsp;Nebojsa D. Cekic,&nbsp;Tanja M. Ilic,&nbsp;Bojan D. Markovic,&nbsp;Sasa R. Savic,&nbsp;Sanja M. Petrovic,&nbsp;Snezana D. Savic","doi":"10.1111/ics.13034","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13034","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Substantial efforts have been progressively devoted to developing innovative, safe, and effective topical anti-aging products that not only improve the appearance of aged skin but also prioritize environmental sustainability and the responsible use of natural resources. Thus, the current study targeted to evaluate novel, natural emulsion/serum comprising new glycolipid emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate) and <i>Acmella oleracea</i> plant extract as a model active.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The developed serum was assessed concerning its stability (freeze–thaw test, accelerated study), safety (in vitro screening of eye irritation potential, dermal absorption study) and efficacy (randomized, active/reference-controlled, half-face, in vivo study). Changes in skin biophysical properties, microrelief, roughness, texture, surface, and volume parameters were assessed in the periocular and perioral areas of human volunteers after 2 weeks of product application, utilizing several bioengineering and topography techniques.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The stability study demonstrated favourable stability profile of the developed serum, with practically unaffected stability-indicating parameters (apparent viscosity, yield, flow point, storage and loss moduli, loss factor, pH, electrical conductivity) during freeze–thaw cycling and after 3 months of storage at 45°C. The hen's egg test on the chorioallantoic membrane of fertilized chicken eggs confirmed the absence of ocular irritation potential of investigated serum; no effects of haemorrhage, lysis or coagulation were occurred. Skin permeation study using diffusion cells revealed no permeation of spilanthol from the tested <i>A. oleracea</i> extract-loaded serum through the pig ear skin into the receptor medium, thus suggesting no absorption into systemic circulation. In vivo efficacy study corroborated beneficial effects of evaluated serum on the condition/appearance of facial skin, at both periocular and perioral areas—significant (<i>p</i> &lt; 0.05) increase in skin hydration (10%–40%) and smoothness (~15%); significant (<i>p</i> &lt; 0.05) decrease in roughness (20%–30%), scaliness (~30%), and wrinkles (~15%)—implying more hydrated, smoother, visibly milder skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The present findings confirmed the stability, preliminary safety (no ocular irritation, no dermal absorption, and good skin tolerability), and efficacy (improved skin hydration and microrelief) of the <i>A. oleracea</i> extract-loaded, glycolipid-based serum, supporting ","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"362-382"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142768483","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Estimating hair density with XGBoost","authors":"Yi-Fan Wang,&nbsp;Mei-Hua Hsu,&nbsp;Max Yue-Feng Wang,&nbsp;Jun-Wei Lin","doi":"10.1111/ics.13030","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13030","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objectives</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Hair density estimation is crucial in dermatology and trichology; however, manual counting is time-consuming and error-prone. Although automated approaches have been developed using image processing, neural networks, and deep learning, creating a robust and widely applicable method remains challenging. This study explored the use of XGBoost to estimate hair density with the aim of developing a more accurate and versatile approach.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The study utilized 895 scalp images to extract features and developed an XGBoost model for hair density estimation using 745 images to train the model and testing its performance on 150 images to evaluate the accuracy, error rate, and scatter plot.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The XGBoost model outperformed previous methods, achieving 89.5% accuracy on the training set and 95.3% accuracy on the test set. This surpassed the results of Kim et al. (52.4%), Urban et al. (79.6%), and Sacha et al. (88.2%) for the test set.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The XGBoost algorithm proved to be effective for automated hair density estimation, achieving an accuracy of 95.3% on the test set. This approach, which focusses on scalp coverage and erosion features, can streamline and improve the objectivity of clinical hair analysis.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"336-342"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-11-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142647994","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A new ex vivo human skin model for the topographic and biological analysis of cosmetic formulas","authors":"Laurent Peno-Mazzarino,&nbsp;Olivier Jeanneton,&nbsp;Stéphanie Almeida Scalvino,&nbsp;Giuseppe Percoco,&nbsp;Gallic Beauchef,&nbsp;Carine Nizard,&nbsp;Karl Pays","doi":"10.1111/ics.13027","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13027","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Objective&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Existing methods to evaluate skin care products suffer limitations. This is the case for ex vivo skin explants, a first-choice 3D model. While essential to analyse mid- to long-term biological effects, this classical model hinders assessing microrelief variations. To circumvent these limitations, we developed an ex vivo PERFused EXplant setup (&lt;i&gt;Perfex&lt;/i&gt;) that maintains the outer skin surface in the open air, closely mirroring physiological conditions.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Methods&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;A custom-designed reservoir enables perfusing the dermal side of explants with buffered, temperature-controlled medium, while the epidermis is subjected to “normal” conditions. Skin tension and characteristics of the stratum corneum, microrelief, histology and immunohistology (collagen types I and III, elastin and fibrillin-1) were analysed and compared to those of explants maintained under conventional conditions or in vivo skin. The effects of skin care formulas intended to induce short- and/or mid- to long-term effects were also assessed.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Results&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Skin explants maintained with the &lt;i&gt;Perfex&lt;/i&gt; setup exhibit characteristics (firmness, elasticity, hydration and barrier function) closer to those of in vivo skin than with conventional conditions. Moreover, &lt;i&gt;Perfex&lt;/i&gt;-maintained explants present no alteration in histology after 7 days and slight variation in the expression of key protein markers. Microrelief characteristics also remain mostly stable over 7 days. Formula applications corroborate that skin tensor-containing products primarily induce short-term changes in the microrelief, while those with biologically active ingredients mainly lead to mid- to long-term effects on the histology and expression of molecular markers. Furthermore, maintaining skin explants with a physiologically relevant skin surface enabled analysing the relationship between microrelief and key markers, showing that fibrillin-1 is the protein most correlated with microrelief characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Conclusions&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;The &lt;i&gt;Perfex&lt;/i&gt; setup allows for similar preservation of skin explant histology and key protein expression as the conventional system, yet it maintains a skin surface close to that of in vivo skin. Therefore, it is valuable to analyse both the short- and mid- to long-term impacts of skin care formulas and better comprehend their effects. The &lt;i&gt;Perfex&lt;/i&gt; system also offers a new tool for investigating fundamental questions, such as the link that can exist between dermal proteins and skin surface properties.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 ","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"305-320"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-11-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142619700","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Micellar solubility and co-solubilization of fragrance raw materials in sodium dodecyl sulfate and polysorbate 20 surfactant systems","authors":"Christine Tilghman,&nbsp;S. Kevin Li,&nbsp;Laura A. Spaulding","doi":"10.1111/ics.13032","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13032","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The aim of this work was to investigate the solubility and co-solubilization of fragrance raw materials (FRMs) in sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and polysorbate 20 (P20) surfactant micellar systems, which can advance our knowledge of multi-solute micellar solubilization and fragrance olfactory performance from product matrices containing the surfactants.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The transfer of individual FRMs and binary FRM mixtures into micellar phases was quantified by UV–VIS differential spectroscopy and evaluated in terms of the standard Gibbs free energy change and micelle-water partition coefficient. Co-solubilization effects were further evaluated by the deviation ratio.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Anionic SDS was found overall to be a more efficient solubilizer than nonionic P20. On an individual basis, micellar solubilization generally increased with solute lipophilicity but was additionally impacted by solute rigidity and steric effects. Micellar solubilization was favoured for more rigid structures and less favoured for FRMs that exhibited larger molecular rotation and steric hindrance. For multi-solute systems, three co-solubilization effects were observed: (i) inhibitive effect in which micellar partitioning of both solutes decreased, (ii) an inverse effect where partitioning of one solute increased while the other decreased and (iii) synergistic effect in which partitioning of both solutes increased. During co-solubilization in P20 micelles, many FRMs competed for solubilization between the polyoxyethylene chains in the outer layer of the micelle, thereby resulting in an inhibitory effect for both solutes. Co-solubilization of FRM binary mixtures in SDS micelles often resulted in a synergistic increase in micellar solubility, possibly due to micellar swelling, thereby facilitating partitioning of additional solutes into the micelle. An inverse effect in which the micellar solubility of one solute increased, while the other decreased was observed in both surfactant systems with varying degrees of partitioning depending on the composition of the FRM mixture.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The results of this study provide valuable insights into the impact of FRM composition on multi-solute partitioning behaviour and the impact of surfactant type on co-solubilization in micellar solutions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"321-335"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-11-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142619710","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Scalp condition improvement with botanical extracts possessing chemical and physical antioxidant activity","authors":"Jennifer M. Marsh,&nbsp;Lijuan Li,&nbsp;Sonja Knowles,&nbsp;Kathryn C. S. Locker,&nbsp;Kathleen Pearson,&nbsp;Rob Bacon,&nbsp;Kimberly Kozak,&nbsp;Tim Laughlin,&nbsp;James R. Schwartz","doi":"10.1111/ics.13031","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13031","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Oxidative stress is implicated in scalp and hair health manifesting in several ways, including skin barrier, hair retention, healthy hair appearance and scalp sensation. We previously linked markers of oxidative damage to dandruff and skin barrier impairment and have linked key anti-dandruff technologies to the resolution of these issues. Here we expand the therapeutic space demonstrating many botanical extracts offer protective benefits against ROS stress via both chemical and biological antioxidant mechanisms.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Chemical antioxidant activity of 10 botanical extracts was measured using oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) and biological antioxidant activity was measured using a Nrf-2 cell assay. A three-dimensional human keratinocyte skin equivalent model from MatTek was used to measure efficacy of reducing reactive oxygen species (ROS) from both the botanicals added as a solution and from a shampoo product. A 4-week consumer study with 56 panels was conducted with a leave-on treatment containing a botanical extract. Measurement of the oxidized lipids (9 and 13-Hydroxy-10E 12Z-octadecadienoic acid, HODE) extracted from scalp tape strips was made using gradient reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC/MS/MS).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We demonstrated in vitro that many botanical extracts exert antioxidant activity by quenching radicals in ORAC testing as well as activating biological antioxidant pathways via nrf-2 up-regulation in a cellular reporter system. Furthermore, we demonstrate these antioxidant activities for these botanicals in 3D skin models and ultimately show the reduction of lipid oxidation products in a consumer use context with a rosemary extract.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Improved scalp condition can be achieved with incorporation of botanicals having the potential to exert antioxidant activity in hair/scalp care products.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"297-304"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-11-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142619714","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}