{"title":"含有创新复杂凝聚物的化妆品乳液：一项横断面研究。","authors":"Delaporte Adeline, Grisel Michel, Gore Ecaterina","doi":"10.1111/ics.13035","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div>\n \n \n <section>\n \n <h3> Objective</h3>\n \n <p>Vitamin E, in the form of α-tocopherol (TOCO), is an essential lipophilic antioxidant widely used in topical formulations. However, incorporating pure TOCO into skincare products poses significant challenges due to its limited solubility and high sensitivity to heat, light and oxidation. The present cross-sectional study aimed to innovate by encapsulating TOCO using non-animal sustainable biopolymers through complex coacervation and to investigate the interaction of these coacervates with cosmetic emulsions, focusing on their impact on the emulsions' physicochemical properties and stability.</p>\n </section>\n \n <section>\n \n <h3> Methods</h3>\n \n <p>TOCO was encapsulated using the complex coacervation technique by combining two biopolymers: fungal chitosan and gum Arabic. The designed microcapsules were incorporated into oil-in-water emulsions containing natural ingredients, and the physicochemical properties as well as the stability of the formulations were evaluated and compared to those of non-encapsulated TOCO emulsions.</p>\n </section>\n \n <section>\n \n <h3> Results</h3>\n \n <p>Innovative coacervates of the non-animal TOCO complex of 86.8 ± 3.5 μm were developed, achieving a high encapsulation efficiency and loading of 87.0% and 27.2%, respectively. The microcapsules exhibited thermal stability up to a temperature of 220°C and showed improved storage stability of the active ingredient when encapsulated. In particular, 63% of TOCO was retained over 2 months at a temperature of 40°C. Emulsions containing microcapsules showed increased particle size distribution, higher viscosity, and enhanced viscoelastic properties, in accordance with their textural properties. Both emulsions remained stable for a 1-month storage period at a temperature of 40°C, and no noticeable effect of coacervates on the stability of TOCO in the emulsions was observed.</p>\n </section>\n \n <section>\n \n <h3> Conclusion</h3>\n \n <p>This study emphasises the potential of fungal chitosan-gum Arabic coacervates as a sustainable substitute for animal-derived coacervates, demonstrating promising outcomes for the encapsulation of lipophilic actives. When incorporated into cosmetic emulsions, these coacervates enhanced the textural and rheological properties while preserving the TOCO stability over time. These findings suggest that the developed microcapsules offer considerable potential for the development of future skin-care products with enhanced functional properties.</p>\n </section>\n </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"383-397"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7000,"publicationDate":"2024-12-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13035","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Cosmetic emulsions containing innovative complex coacervates: A cross-sectional study\",\"authors\":\"Delaporte Adeline, Grisel Michel, Gore Ecaterina\",\"doi\":\"10.1111/ics.13035\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<div>\\n \\n \\n <section>\\n \\n <h3> Objective</h3>\\n \\n <p>Vitamin E, in the form of α-tocopherol (TOCO), is an essential lipophilic antioxidant widely used in topical formulations. However, incorporating pure TOCO into skincare products poses significant challenges due to its limited solubility and high sensitivity to heat, light and oxidation. The present cross-sectional study aimed to innovate by encapsulating TOCO using non-animal sustainable biopolymers through complex coacervation and to investigate the interaction of these coacervates with cosmetic emulsions, focusing on their impact on the emulsions' physicochemical properties and stability.</p>\\n </section>\\n \\n <section>\\n \\n <h3> Methods</h3>\\n \\n <p>TOCO was encapsulated using the complex coacervation technique by combining two biopolymers: fungal chitosan and gum Arabic. The designed microcapsules were incorporated into oil-in-water emulsions containing natural ingredients, and the physicochemical properties as well as the stability of the formulations were evaluated and compared to those of non-encapsulated TOCO emulsions.</p>\\n </section>\\n \\n <section>\\n \\n <h3> Results</h3>\\n \\n <p>Innovative coacervates of the non-animal TOCO complex of 86.8 ± 3.5 μm were developed, achieving a high encapsulation efficiency and loading of 87.0% and 27.2%, respectively. The microcapsules exhibited thermal stability up to a temperature of 220°C and showed improved storage stability of the active ingredient when encapsulated. In particular, 63% of TOCO was retained over 2 months at a temperature of 40°C. Emulsions containing microcapsules showed increased particle size distribution, higher viscosity, and enhanced viscoelastic properties, in accordance with their textural properties. Both emulsions remained stable for a 1-month storage period at a temperature of 40°C, and no noticeable effect of coacervates on the stability of TOCO in the emulsions was observed.</p>\\n </section>\\n \\n <section>\\n \\n <h3> Conclusion</h3>\\n \\n <p>This study emphasises the potential of fungal chitosan-gum Arabic coacervates as a sustainable substitute for animal-derived coacervates, demonstrating promising outcomes for the encapsulation of lipophilic actives. When incorporated into cosmetic emulsions, these coacervates enhanced the textural and rheological properties while preserving the TOCO stability over time. These findings suggest that the developed microcapsules offer considerable potential for the development of future skin-care products with enhanced functional properties.</p>\\n </section>\\n </div>\",\"PeriodicalId\":13936,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"International Journal of Cosmetic Science\",\"volume\":\"47 2\",\"pages\":\"383-397\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":2.7000,\"publicationDate\":\"2024-12-23\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13035\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"International Journal of Cosmetic Science\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"3\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/ics.13035\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"医学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q2\",\"JCRName\":\"DERMATOLOGY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","FirstCategoryId":"3","ListUrlMain":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/ics.13035","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"DERMATOLOGY","Score":null,"Total":0}
Cosmetic emulsions containing innovative complex coacervates: A cross-sectional study
Objective
Vitamin E, in the form of α-tocopherol (TOCO), is an essential lipophilic antioxidant widely used in topical formulations. However, incorporating pure TOCO into skincare products poses significant challenges due to its limited solubility and high sensitivity to heat, light and oxidation. The present cross-sectional study aimed to innovate by encapsulating TOCO using non-animal sustainable biopolymers through complex coacervation and to investigate the interaction of these coacervates with cosmetic emulsions, focusing on their impact on the emulsions' physicochemical properties and stability.
Methods
TOCO was encapsulated using the complex coacervation technique by combining two biopolymers: fungal chitosan and gum Arabic. The designed microcapsules were incorporated into oil-in-water emulsions containing natural ingredients, and the physicochemical properties as well as the stability of the formulations were evaluated and compared to those of non-encapsulated TOCO emulsions.
Results
Innovative coacervates of the non-animal TOCO complex of 86.8 ± 3.5 μm were developed, achieving a high encapsulation efficiency and loading of 87.0% and 27.2%, respectively. The microcapsules exhibited thermal stability up to a temperature of 220°C and showed improved storage stability of the active ingredient when encapsulated. In particular, 63% of TOCO was retained over 2 months at a temperature of 40°C. Emulsions containing microcapsules showed increased particle size distribution, higher viscosity, and enhanced viscoelastic properties, in accordance with their textural properties. Both emulsions remained stable for a 1-month storage period at a temperature of 40°C, and no noticeable effect of coacervates on the stability of TOCO in the emulsions was observed.
Conclusion
This study emphasises the potential of fungal chitosan-gum Arabic coacervates as a sustainable substitute for animal-derived coacervates, demonstrating promising outcomes for the encapsulation of lipophilic actives. When incorporated into cosmetic emulsions, these coacervates enhanced the textural and rheological properties while preserving the TOCO stability over time. These findings suggest that the developed microcapsules offer considerable potential for the development of future skin-care products with enhanced functional properties.
期刊介绍：
The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes.
The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.
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