International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Enhancing the reliability of skin tone evaluation: A study of full-face imaging devices with colour calibration","authors":"Wenyang Wang,&nbsp;Yang Wang,&nbsp;Chanjuan Liu,&nbsp;Andrew Steel,&nbsp;Frédéric Flament","doi":"10.1111/ics.70090","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70090","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Skin colour measurement is common and essential to clinical evaluation, especially for product efficacy evaluation and research on skin tone and pigmentary disorders. Among multiple evaluation methods, full-face imaging analysis has become increasingly valuable thanks to attractive visuals, trackability, algorithm optimization, etc. Today, numerous imaging devices are available on the market, employing diffuse light or cross-polarized light. While most systems control their light source output during manufacturing, lack of precise colour calibration and variations between devices remain the key barriers for product efficacy evaluation for skin tone.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This research aims to enhance the reliability of colour measurement by validating two representative full-face imaging devices for clinical objective evaluation. Using a ColorChecker during image capture will allow colour calibration to standardized lighting conditions, thus mitigating device-specific variations and improving the reliability of skin colour measurements.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A 4-week clinical study investigated two imaging devices employing different light sources. A ColorChecker was included in each image capture. Initial analysis of each colour patch assessed the inherent colour accuracy and stability of both devices. Subsequently, image colour calibration was applied to standardize colours to a reference colour under standard light source. Further analysis then evaluated whether this calibration improved the devices' capabilities in measuring skin tone.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>There is a disparity in the colour measurement capabilities of the two investigated devices. By incorporating a standard ColorChecker within the field of view and implementing image colour calibration through use of a polynomial regression model, colour accuracy and system stability has been enhanced, thus improving the reliability of colour assessment in clinical evaluation and reducing the inconsistencies between devices.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study offers insights into colour measurement for skin tone evaluation, demonstrating the value of using a ColorChecker and colour calibration to ensure reliable and accurate skin tone measurements.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"969-976"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70090","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147326043","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Scalp microbiome differences in subjects with self-reported hair loss: A quantitative approach to microbial dysbiosis","authors":"Judy Malas,&nbsp;Sebastian Reczek,&nbsp;Imani Porter,&nbsp;Yolanda M. Lenzy,&nbsp;Victoria Barbosa,&nbsp;Crystal Porter,&nbsp;Jarrad Hampton-Marcell","doi":"10.1111/ics.70101","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70101","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Hair loss is a common issue that affects a large proportion of the population, leading to lower self-confidence and quality of life. Microbial dysbiosis of the scalp has been shown to be associated with several different disorders leading to hair loss. Though several ‘microbiome friendly cosmetic treatments are currently on the market, there is no agreement on the best technique for assessing dysbiosis, leading to a lack of scientific rigour for quantifying the effective treatments. To help address this, the association between self-perceived hair loss and the scalp microbiome in an African-American cohort (<i>n</i> = 36) was investigated.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Using a self-controlled design, swabs were collected from both ‘sparse’ and ‘normal’ scalp sites. The scalp microbiome was characterized via 16S rRNA gene sequencing and a dysbiosis score was calculated based on the proportion of all taxa within the samples. Further, we identified the taxa that contributed most to abnormal or dysbiotic hair sites using a machine learning random forest classifier and a negative binomial mixed-effects model.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The dysbiosis index is sensitive to participants' self-assessment of hair loss and interindividual variation. We found a core set of operational taxonomic units (OTUs) assigned to 7 genera that significantly contributed to increased scalp dysbiosis.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study demonstrates that self-perceived hair loss is associated with significant and measurable alterations in the scalp microbiome, making the reported dysbiosis index a practical tool that may be used to assess microbiome changes following cosmetic or medical interventions for hair loss and other microbiome-associated disorders.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"1059-1070"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147770766","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Potential of organogel-based colloidal hydrogels for new cosmetic formulations","authors":"Andrea Gregorio Gomes,&nbsp;Lea Broche,&nbsp;Bruno Payre,&nbsp;Emile Perez,&nbsp;Celine Picard,&nbsp;Sophie Franceschi","doi":"10.1111/ics.70089","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70089","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The cosmetics industry is always seeking new formulations that offer pleasant and effective textures. This study aimed to explore new systems based on aqueous dispersions of organogel particles capable of forming colloidal hydrogels.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Aqueous dispersions of gelled oil particles were obtained by hot formation of oil-in-water emulsions followed by cooling. Depending on the type of oil and dispersing agent, different colloidal hydrogels were formed. Their microstructure, texture, and sensory properties were evaluated.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>By using 12-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) as the organogelator, colloidal hydrogels were systematically obtained, regardless of the oil or surfactant used. However, microstructures and resulting textures could be modulated from a rheological or sensory point of view by adjusting ingredient type and proportion. Moreover, nonionic surfactants led to firmer textures than charged surfactants.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Stable colloidal hydrogels were developed using two emollient oils and three common surfactants. Texture analyses, as well as their rheological and sensory behaviour, demonstrated their potential interest in the development of new cosmetic formulations.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"957-968"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70089","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147283662","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Bio-active designed peptide for hair keratin strengthening","authors":"Chan-Su Rha,&nbsp;Byeong Gyu In,&nbsp;Kilsun Myoung,&nbsp;Chaeyeon Song,&nbsp;Eun-Soo Lee,&nbsp;Heung Soo Baek,&nbsp;Won Seok Park","doi":"10.1111/ics.70092","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70092","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Environmental and chemical stressors can degrade the integrity and mechanical properties of hair, necessitating innovative approaches for effective hair care solutions. This study aimed to computationally design targeted tripeptides for hair protein strengthening and experimentally validate their efficacy for cosmetic applications.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We employed rational peptide design, molecular docking and comprehensive functional testing to identify optimal tripeptide sequences. Computational screening evaluated binding interactions with hair keratins, followed by experimental validation using tensile strength measurements, breakage analysis, surface morphology assessment and confocal microscopy for penetration studies.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Computational screening identified KCV (Tripeptide-132) as the most promising candidate, demonstrating notable binding energy (approximately −45 kcal/mol), whereas palmitoylated KCV (pal-KCV) exhibited enhanced binding energy (−65 kcal/mol). Hair fibres treated with pal-KCV showed the highest tensile strength improvement compared to untreated controls, representing a 44% increase. Additionally, KCV treatment reduced mechanical hair breakage by 48%–52% and demonstrated significant improvement in surface smoothness and cuticle integrity. Confocal microscopy revealed that KCV thoroughly penetrated hair cross-sections, with intense fluorescence in both the cuticle and cortex regions. Molecular dynamics simulations confirmed robust KCV-keratin interactions through 100 distinct noncovalent interactions, predominantly hydrogen bonds (75%).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>These findings establish that KCV and its palmitoylated derivatives are highly effective agents for comprehensive hair protein strengthening applications, offering promising potential for advanced hair care formulations with superior performance characteristics.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"990-1005"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70092","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147503762","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Mechanisms underlying the protective effects of San-Bai decoction against UV radiation on the skin","authors":"Rui Zhang,&nbsp;Hong Zhang,&nbsp;Chengming Zhang,&nbsp;Wencai Jiang,&nbsp;Luonan Chen,&nbsp;Yimei Tan,&nbsp;Ying Zou,&nbsp;Xuelan Gu","doi":"10.1111/ics.70093","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70093","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Background&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;San-Bai decoction (SBD), as a classic TCM formula, has been administered orally to support skin health with a long record history dating back to the Ming Dynasty in China. However, the protective efficacy of SBD through topical application on skin remains unclear.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Purpose&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;We aimed to evaluate the effectiveness of SBD in protecting skin against UV radiation through an integrated in silico–in vitro–in vivo framework and elucidate its underlying mechanisms using a systems biology approach.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Methods&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;A public database was used to construct a network diagram linking SBD's active chemical components with corresponding potential target genes for network pharmacology analysis. Skin lightening efficacy was evaluated in vitro using a pigmented 3D skin model, while in vivo protective effects were assessed in a double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study. Transcriptomic analysis using the microarray platform was conducted to explore underlying mechanisms among control, UV exposure and SBD treatment groups.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Results&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Network pharmacology analysis implicated over 800 effective targets regulated by SBD, with Gene Ontology enrichment analysis suggesting that they were involved in oxidative response and immune regulation. USBT2627, the aqueous extract of SBD, displayed skin lightening effect in a pigmented living skin equivalent model. Compared with the placebo, pretreatment with 5% USBT2627 effectively protected skin from UV damage, increasing &lt;i&gt;L&lt;/i&gt;* values (&lt;i&gt;p&lt;/i&gt; = 0.048) and ITA° (&lt;i&gt;p&lt;/i&gt; = 0.022), and reducing erythema (&lt;i&gt;p&lt;/i&gt; = 0.016). USBT2627 pretreatment also showed a mild effect on &lt;i&gt;a&lt;/i&gt;* reduction (&lt;i&gt;p&lt;/i&gt; = 0.052). Transcriptomic analysis indicated that USBT2627 regulated multiple pathways related to skin pigmentation, such as ET-1 signalling and pigmentation signalling pathways, as well as oxidation response and cytokine signalling pathways.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Conclusions&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;USBT2627 suppresses melanin accumulation in vitro and protects skin against UV exposure in both in vitro and in vivo models; multiple components, targets and pathways of SBD act together to confer its protective effect against UV exposure. These findings highlight a significant potential of topical USBT2627 in protecting skin against UV exposure. Additionally, this study showcases the value of a systems","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"1006-1017"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70093","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147503816","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Chemical constituents of exosome-like nanoparticles-enriched vesicle fraction derived from Sparassis crispa and its biological and molecular docking studies","authors":"Dae-Cheol Choi,&nbsp;Sanghee Han,&nbsp;Suyeon Lee,&nbsp;Min woo Lee,&nbsp;So Hee Jeon,&nbsp;Dae-Won Ki,&nbsp;In-Kyoung Lee,&nbsp;Bong-Sik Yun","doi":"10.1111/ics.70094","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70094","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Exosome-like nanovesicles (ELNs) are extracellular vesicles (50–200 nm) with a bilayer membrane derived from endosomes. They contain nucleic acids, proteins, lipids and secondary metabolites, and function as mediators of intercellular communication. ELNs isolated from plants and mushrooms have been reported to exhibit diverse biological activities.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>ELN-enriched vesicle fraction derived from <i>Sparassis crispa</i> was extracted using low-temperature pressure squeeze pre-treatment and tangential flow filtration system. The ethyl acetate portion was purified using multiple chromatography techniques to yield three compounds. Their structures were determined by spectroscopic analysis and comparison with reported data. The effects of the compounds on type I collagen gene (<i>COL1A1</i>) expression were evaluated in CCD-1064Sk human fibroblasts. Molecular docking was conducted to assess their interactions with collagenases (MMP-1, MMP-8 and MMP-13).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Three compounds were isolated from ELN-enriched vesicle fraction derived from <i>S. crispa</i> and identified as sparalide C (<b>1</b>), 5-hydroxy-7-methoxyphthalide (<b>2</b>) and methyl orsellinate (<b>3</b>). All compounds increased <i>COL1A1</i> gene expression in a dose-dependent manner. These compounds exhibited binding energies in the range of −5.8 to −7.0 kcal/mol against three collagenases.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study identified three bioactive compounds, sparalide C (<b>1</b>), 5-hydroxy-7-methoxyphthalide (<b>2</b>) and methyl orsellinate (<b>3</b>), from ELN-enriched vesicle fraction derived from <i>S</i>. <i>crispa</i>. All isolated compounds enhanced <i>COL1A1</i> gene expression in CCD-1064Sk human fibroblasts, suggesting their potential to promote collagen biosynthesis. Molecular docking analysis further supported their relevance by indicating moderate binding affinities to collagenase enzymes (MMP-1, MMP-8 and MMP-13), which are known to degrade type I collagen. These findings suggest that ELN-enriched vesicle fraction derived from <i>S. crispa</i> may serve as a promising natural source for skin health applications, particularly in maintaining extracellular matrix homeostasis.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"1018-1028"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147573897","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The effect of a serum containing acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate and gluconolactone on skin biomarkers, wrinkles and skin texture: Ex vivo and clinical studies","authors":"Mingjie Zhu,&nbsp;Xiaofeng He,&nbsp;Zailing Zhu,&nbsp;Stephen Lynch,&nbsp;Hequn Wang,&nbsp;Xiaoyin Zhou,&nbsp;Yidong Tu,&nbsp;Andrew Steel,&nbsp;Kung Chi Hsu,&nbsp;Yueqing Niu,&nbsp;Anna Cho,&nbsp;Mutsue Hashimoto,&nbsp;Xi Yan,&nbsp;Maggie Su,&nbsp;Wenna Wang","doi":"10.1111/ics.70087","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70087","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study aimed to explore the anti-skin aging efficacy of a novel serum containing acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, gluconolactone, niacinamide and laminaria extract through one ex-vivo study and two clinical studies.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In ex-vivo study, skin samples were exposed to the serum (Formula 1) and its active ingredient combinations (Formula 2). Biomarkers including matrix metalloproteinase-1, elastic fibres and collagen types I, III, IV and XVII content were analyzed to evaluate the efficacy. In clinical study 1 (<i>n</i> = 50), the Formula 1's efficacy in reducing static wrinkles and improving skin quality was examined, while study 2 (<i>n</i> = 42) focused on its efficacy against dynamic wrinkles.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Formula 1 significantly increased levels of anti-aging biomarkers including elastic fibres, collagen fibres, etc. Meanwhile, Formula 1 significantly improved static wrinkle appearance within the first week, with mean clinical scoring from 35% to 69% for various types of wrinkles after 12 weeks of use (all <i>p</i> &lt; 0.001). The clinical scoring for dynamic wrinkles improved by 10%–13% (all <i>p</i> &lt; 0.001). Additionally, significant improvements were observed in skin quality, indicated by clinical scoring changes of smoothness (30%), radiance (27%), skin pore (43%), elasticity (33%) and firmness (36%) (all <i>p</i> &lt; 0.001).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The serum demonstrates significant anti-aging effects, effectively improving static and dynamic wrinkles and skin quality.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"913-925"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70087","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146157128","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A serum and cream moisturization regimen outperforms separate use in sustaining hydration, reducing TEWL, and balancing surface lipids over an 8-h study","authors":"Alexandra M. Maldonado López,&nbsp;Ivan Domicio da Silva Souza","doi":"10.1111/ics.70100","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70100","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Skin hydration can be achieved through complementary mechanisms in skincare formulations. Humectants retain water, while emollients and occlusives reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by reinforcing the epidermal barrier. Although consumers follow skincare routines, biophysical comparisons of single-product use versus regimen use across parameters such as hydration, TEWL, and sebum content are limited. Our study measured these parameters in 123 volunteers randomized into four treatment groups: Facial Cleanser (FC) control, Hyaluronic Acid Serum (HAS) group, Moisturizing Cream (MC) group, and Routine comprising HAS followed by MC. Corneometry, TEWL, and sebumetry were measured at baseline, 30 min, and 8 h after treatment application. Corneometry results at 30 min showed that HAS, MC, and Routine increased hydration when compared with FC. At 8 h, only the Routine remained higher than FC. Additionally, TEWL decreased at 30 min for HAS, MC, and the Routine versus FC, whereas at 8 h, only HAS remained lower than FC. We measured sebumetry because skin surface lipids support the epidermal barrier and thus maintain water homeostasis. FC reduced sebum at 30 min due to sebum stripping. However, at 8 h, the Routine's sebum measurements stayed closest to baseline and were lower than HAS and MC individually. Apart from objective measurements, perceived hydration was assessed by a subjective questionnaire. Volunteers who applied the routine reported greater immediate and long-lasting hydration than those who applied HAS or MC individually. These results suggest that layering the Routine improved hydration durability with barrier-relevant water-retention benefits over an 8-h wear period.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"1042-1054"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70100","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147573969","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A manifesto for informed sun protection advice in relation to sunscreens","authors":"Marc Pissavini,&nbsp;Orsalie Kriekoukis,&nbsp;Paul J. Matts,&nbsp;J. Frank Nash,&nbsp;Craig Sinclair,&nbsp;Antony R. Young,&nbsp;Brian L. Diffey","doi":"10.1111/ics.70068","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70068","url":null,"abstract":"<p>In response to the recent tsunami of misinformation around sunscreens and commensurate non-scientific questioning of sunscreen safety and utility, often amplified through social media, this manifesto has been written to reflect accurately and concisely the status of our understanding based on current scientific knowledge. We argue that sunscreen products are not a threat but essential tools in furthering human health globally.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"1055-1058"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70068","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147608777","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A proposal for simplifying the labelling of sunscreens","authors":"Brian Diffey","doi":"10.1111/ics.70103","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70103","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Determination of sun protection factors (SPFs) using the ‘gold standard’ in vivo method (ISO 24444) is known to be associated with appreciable uncertainty because of experimental variability. Consequently, several in vitro methods have been evaluated, that show promising accuracy, reproducibility and correlation with the in vivo ISO 24444 method. As a way of eliminating the uncertainties associated with both in vivo and in vitro methods, a proposal is made here to dispense with the concept of the SPF and instead to introduce a binary system for labelling the protection afforded by topical sunscreens. Phototesting can be either in vivo or in vitro, with in vivo phototesting requiring only a single area of sunscreen-protected skin to be irradiated. Alternatively, a validated in vitro method could be employed to determine the threshold protection required for assigning products to the appropriate binary category.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"1071-1076"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70103","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147770762","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}