International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Correlation study of facial lipid profile differences and skin physiological characteristics in Chinese women aged 19-33 years.","authors":"Yumei Fan, Chunhua Wei, Ning Su, Yanyun Ma, Wei Liu, Peiwen Sun, Shuo Shan","doi":"10.1111/ics.13065","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13065","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Background: </strong>Changes in the stratum corneum (SC) lipid profiles are associated with various skin diseases. Factors, including age, ethnicity, season and anatomical location, can influence the variations in SC lipid profiles. According to reports, the facial sebum of Chinese women peaks at age 20-30, accompanied by various signs of facial ageing. No studies have investigated how facial SC lipid profiles change with age in young Chinese women.</p><p><strong>Objectives: </strong>This study aimed to observe the differences in the facial SC lipid profiles of Chinese female volunteers aged 19-33 and determined the relationship between key lipids and physiological parameters.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Differential lipids were detected and screened in healthy Chinese women aged 19-33 through ultra-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. The relationship between these lipids and the skin's physiological parameters was determined.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The facial SC lipid profiles of young Chinese women exhibited significant differences with age. The results indicated that 40 lipids increased with age, while 51 types decreased. The average chain length of diglycerides (DG), triglycerides (TG) and short-chain ceramides decreased with age, while cholesterol esters (CE) and ceramides {Cer, Cer/EODS (d19:0/18:1/O/16:0) and Cer/EOS (d28:1/12:0/O/14:0)} increased with age. Cer/EODS (d19:0/18:1/O/16:0), Cer/EOS (d28:1/12:0/O/14:0) and HexCer/NDS (d14:0/33:1) were positively correlated with trans-epidermal water loss, skin elasticity and skin brightness, while Cer/AP (t18:0/20:0) was negatively correlated with skin elasticity. This study comprehensively explains the differences in lipid profile composition and skin ageing in young populations.</p><p><strong>Conclusions: </strong>Young Chinese women's facial skin SC lipid profiles significantly change with age. Age-related changes result in variations in DG and CE levels and changes in the chain lengths of TG and Cer. Age-related changes in Cer content affect skin barrier function, elasticity and brightness.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-04-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143802873","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Collagen type V alpha 3 chain is involved in human skin basement membrane physiology and MMP-9 regulation.","authors":"Florian Labarrade, Imane Garcia, Isabelle Imbert","doi":"10.1111/ics.13062","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13062","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Collagens are widely studied proteins given their implications in the skin extracellular matrix and pathological conditions such as fibrosis. Type V collagen is a member of the fibrillar collagens, and three different polypeptide chains, α1, α2 and α3 form isoforms through associations. The third chain, α3, of type V collagen was initially identified in the placenta, but after decades, it remains poorly characterized. The aim of this study is to investigate the expression and localization of the α3 chain of type V collagen in the skin and its evolution during skin aging. The identification of α3(V) collagen as a target of retinoic acid and its interaction with matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) was investigated.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The expression and localization of α3(V) collagen were assessed by immunodetection in ex vivo skin and in keratinocytes using a calcium-differentiated model. The variation in α3(V) collagen expression during aging was studied in ex vivo skin from donors of different ages. The modulation of α3(V) collagen by retinoic acid was investigated by qPCR in keratinocytes and by immunofluorescence in ex vivo skin biopsies. Silencing of α3(V) collagen was performed using siRNA. The expression of MMP-9 was investigated using qPCR.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>In our study, we showed that α3(V) collagen was abundantly produced by basal skin keratinocytes and in the outer root sheath of the hair. α3(V) collagen expression appears to decrease with age in the skin and in differentiated keratinocytes. We also identified that treatment of keratinocytes and ex vivo skin biopsies with retinoic acid induced α3(V) collagen expression. Finally, we showed that inhibition of α3(V) collagen in keratinocytes led to an increase in MMP-9 expression.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>This study provides a better understanding of α3(V) collagen expression and localization in the skin. These findings suggest that α3(V) collagen could contribute to the therapeutic and anti-aging value of retinoic acid on the skin and may open new prospects. Finally, our data shed more light on the functional relationship between α3(V) collagen and MMP-9, opening possibilities for anti-aging and eczema treatments.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-04-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143779963","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Hair perming via thiol-Michael click reaction: A strategy to avoid oxidative damage.","authors":"Kuan Chang, Yuwen Wu, Zezhi Liu, Ling Ma, Timson Chen, Zhizhen Li, Ya Chen, Jing Wang","doi":"10.1111/ics.13063","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13063","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objectives: </strong>Oxidative agents used in conventional hair perming damage hair fibres. This study proposes a novel perming approach employing 1,4-butylenediamine bismaleimide (1,4-BB) as a cross linking agent via thiol-Michael click chemistry to avoid oxidative harm. The perming performance and effects on hair fibre properties were investigated and compared.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>1,4-BB was synthesized via an acylation reaction and evaluated for cytotoxicity using the MTT assay. Perming efficiency was compared on reduced hair cross linked by 3 wt% H₂O₂, 6 wt% NaBrO₃ and 0.5 wt% 1,4-BB, respectively. Chemical changes during different perming methods were analysed via Raman spectroscopy, fluorescence microscopy, XRD and FT-IR characterization. Perming efficiency and durability were evaluated and explained by calculating the -SH connection ratio via X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. Mechanical properties, colour and surface properties of hair samples permed by different methods were evaluated and compared.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>1,4-BB was successfully prepared and exhibited no cytotoxicity over a wide concentration range. Click perming using 1,4-BB exhibited comparable perming efficiency and superior durability compared to oxidative perming methods. Higher α-helix keratin content and reduced sulfonate formation contributed to the preservation of hair mechanical properties. Click perming also benefited from the preservation of hair colour and surface properties, including morphology and hydrophobicity.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Thiol-Michael click perming offers a non-oxidative alternative with reduced hair damage and enhanced perming durability.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-04-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143772181","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Simultaneous morphological analysis of large numbers of hair cross sections as a tool for investigation of population-level trends.","authors":"Marina Richena, Alasdair Noble, Kim Parker, Ranjit K Bhogal, David Messenger, Stefan Clerens, Duane P Harland","doi":"10.1111/ics.13057","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13057","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Characterizing the fibre properties of individuals with different hair textures across several ethnicities is important for understanding how hair shape varies within and between groups, and how these may influence consumer needs. Here, we present a high-throughput scanning electron microscope (SEM) method for simultaneous measurement of cross-sectional single hair shape parameters from hundreds of hairs per sample, which has not been feasible previously. We demonstrate the power of the method through application on a population with diverse hair types.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Scalp hairs were collected from individuals located in the United States of America. Each hair sample (consisting of up to several hundred fibres) was classified using two different methods, one during clinical collection [hair texture Types 1-4] and later another blind standard laboratory method [hair curliness classification Types I-VIII]. Additional clinical data were collected on age and self-identified ethnicity. Hair shape parameters (cross-sectional area, ellipticity, shape factors) were measured using a SEM sample preparation, imaging and image analysis method. SEM data were analysed with respect to clinical texture, age and self-identified ethnicity and subsequent hair curliness classifications.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The SEM method generated sufficient data from each sample to identify trends, and we found some statistically significant differences between SEM hair shape parameters and clinical sample types, as well as with laboratory curliness classifications. In the curliness classification, there was an expected tendency between hair curliness and aspect ratio: curlier hairs were more elliptical than straight hairs. In terms of the hair grouping types, in the age group, older individuals had thinner hairs than young ones. In the texture group, individuals in Texture Type 1 had thinner hairs than Texture Types 2, 3 and 4. Texture Types 3 and 4 had hairs with a more elliptical profile than individuals in Texture Types 1 and 2.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>The SEM method was reliable to quantify cross-sectional hair parameters within populations of donors with different types of hair. This approach corroborates clinically assessed hair type and curliness classification systems and provides a more thorough characterization of hair shape variation between and within individuals and ethnicities.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-03-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143752663","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Subvisible microscale texture is present on the crista cutis of the skin and interacts with incident light to create a soft and radiant 'shitsukan' appearance.","authors":"Tatsuya Omotezako, MyriamRubecca Rodrigues, Neo Eleanor, Yu Wang, Georgina Wee, Berwyn Chong, Akira Matsubara","doi":"10.1111/ics.13064","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13064","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Previous studies have reported the existence of various topographic structures on the skin surface at different scales: visible and subvisible structures. Surface topography regulates the light reflection profile, and the relationship between light diffusion and human perception, such as soft appearance, has been well studied in the manufacturing industry. However, our understanding of how skin surface topography controls the optical properties of the skin surface and the appearance remains limited.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Two human studies were conducted involving healthy East Asian females. The topography of their skin was evaluated by measuring roughness parameters on skin replicas and roughness attributes on stripped corneocyte samples. These topographical attributes at different scales were compared with their perceived skin appearance, characterized by softness and radiance. Additionally, a novel image analysis algorithm to measure Crista cutis surface reflection (CSR) was developed to assess light reflection on their skin surface. The correlations of light reflection on the skin surface with these skin topographic parameters were also analysed.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Through skin replica observations, attributes of subvisible microscale texture on the surface of the crista cutis were defined. This texture showed significant correlations with light diffusion on the skin surface measured as CSR, and this CSR strongly correlated with soft skin appearance and radiant skin appearance. However, neither macro-topography nor surface roughness on corneocytes showed a clear correlation with these skin attributes.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Subvisible microscale texture on the skin's surface is not visible to the naked eye. However, this structure plays a crucial role in regulating the optical properties of the skin's surface, which in turn leads to tangible differences in skin appearance.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-03-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143752668","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Understanding the dandruff flare-up: A cascade of measurable and perceptible changes to scalp health.","authors":"Kathryn C S Locker, Robert A Bacon, Tamara L Caterino, Laurie Breyfogle, Derrick Johnston Alperet, Pradipta Sarkar, Melissa Piliang, Michael G Davis","doi":"10.1111/ics.13067","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13067","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Clinical studies assessing the dandruff condition typically focus on the therapeutic resolution of the signs and symptoms of dandruff, starting with a symptomatic scalp as a baseline. The reverse, the progression of events leading to a scalp flare-up after stopping the use of an anti-dandruff (AD) shampoo, is poorly understood. This study explored onset time and progression of the signs and symptoms of dandruff in individuals who stop using an AD shampoo.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>This randomized, double-blind, parallel design study recruited self-identified, scalp-concerned adults. After a 2-week run-in with an AD shampoo, participants were randomized into two groups: The first continued using the AD shampoo and the second switched to a cosmetic (non-AD) shampoo. At baseline and defined intervals over the 28-day study period, objective measures of scalp condition were investigated: expert-assessed flaking, scalp impedance, and biomarkers. These were combined with self-assessments of scalp condition. A Stochastic Mixed-Effect Random Forest (SMERF) machine-learning algorithm was explored to model time-varying technical measurements and daily self-assessment responses from participants.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Switching from an AD shampoo to a non-AD shampoo resulted in increased scalp Malassezia load, degree of flaking, barrier disruption, and inflammatory and oxidative stress biomarkers compared to those maintaining AD shampoo usage. Signs of declining scalp condition (histamine, complement component C3) were observed as early as 3 days after ceasing AD shampoo usage despite no statistical increase in flaking (ASFS) until around 3 weeks of using a non-AD shampoo. These changes were accompanied by self-perceived itching and flaking, reported to be significantly worse in those using the non-AD shampoo compared to the AD shampoo at the end of the study. No statistically significant increase from baseline was observed for any objective measure in the AD shampoo group. In the SMERF model, markers of inflammation, oxidative stress, and Malassezia load were predictive of self-perceived scalp attributes.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>For the first time, a comprehensive understanding of changes that occur as scalp condition goes from asymptomatic to dandruff-affected has been established. For scalp-concerned individuals, regular, sustained use of an AD treatment promotes optimal scalp health. When switching to a non-AD shampoo, scalp health deteriorates rapidly, even before visible flakes appear.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-03-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143752670","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Combination of liquid- and solid-phase extraction followed by achiral and chiral high-performance liquid chromatography as an efficient and sensitive method for determination of panthenol in personal care products.","authors":"Andrea Špačková, Barbora Šimková, Katarína Hroboňová","doi":"10.1111/ics.13058","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13058","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>This work deals with the development of an analytical method for the analysis of body milk, cream, and oil. The objective is to develop a reliable, sensitive, and reproducible method suitable to assess the content of dexpanthenol in personal care products and to confirm the declared enantiomeric form.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Optimization of conditions for the extraction of panthenol from personal care products was carried out for the detection and quantification of panthenol and its enantiomers by achiral and chiral high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with spectrophotometric detection. Polarimetric and circular dichroism detection in chiral HPLC were also used for the confirmation of enantiomeric forms of panthenol.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Optimal extraction media, chloroform:water 1:3 (v:v) for liquid-phase extraction and NH₂ type adsorbent for solid-phase extraction have been selected. A combined extraction procedure was useful for the treatment of complex fat cosmetic samples, achieving recoveries of 83.1%, 88.2%, and 83.0% for body milk, cream, and oil, respectively (RSD < 1.6%). The achiral HPLC method with a C18 type stationary phase and acetonitrile:water (10:90, v:v) as a mobile phase, and the chiral HPLC method with an amylose tris(3,5-dimethylphenylcarbamate) stationary phase and a mobile phase composed of n-hexane and ethanol (60:40, v:v) were used for the analysis of extracts.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>The proposed extraction procedure is compatible with both the reversed-phase and normal-phase liquid chromatographic systems and is applicable in the analysis of a wide group of personal care products. The d-enantiomeric form (dexpanthenol) was detected in tested samples. The content of dexpanthenol in body milk, cream, and oil samples was found to be 0.2%-1.5%, 0.04%-0.7%, and 0.01%-0.03%, respectively.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-03-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143614878","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Protective effects of Paeonia suffruticosa callus extract in skin through anti-inflammation and repair UVB-induced damage.","authors":"Yufan Li, Jiejun Han, Rongyue Gong, Yuankun Liu, Yu Zhou, Tiangui Gong, Bin Wang, Laidi Zhang, Shuodan Li, Jiayue Chen","doi":"10.1111/ics.13055","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13055","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>The study investigated effects of peony callus extracts (PCE) on the protective efficacy against Ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoageing, using in vitro and in vivo studies. The research focused on PCE's ability to protect against inflammatory factors, DNA damage and accumulation of senescent cells, along with the evaluation of the extract's potential anti-photoageing benefits to skin.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells), mast cells and fibroblasts were used to evaluate the role of PCE in anti-photoageing. The expression of genes of interleukin-1α (IL-1α), IL-6 and transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) were tested in HaCaT cells. The histamine contents in mast cells were tested to evaluate the effect of PCE on soothing skin. Additionally, the repairment of PCE on DNA damage stimulated by UVB using comet assay was evaluated. In fibroblasts, the gene expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and the activity of β-galactosidase were tested. In vivo test, 13 healthy volunteers were enrolled to apply a formula with 1% PCE to assess the variation in inner skin collagen contents.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The callus from an ancient and rare variety of tree peony (Paeoniaceae family) was successfully induced, and its ingredients were extracted. The PCE could significantly downregulate inflammation factors such as IL-1α, IL-6 and TRPV1 in HaCaT cells, and MMPs in fibroblasts which could cause the collagen degradation induced by UVB. Meanwhile, UVB-induced DNA damage was alleviated by PCE. The analysis of histamine content in mast cells revealed that PCE effectively alleviated skin sensitivity. Furthermore, the clinical trials validated a significant increase in total collagen content in vivo, following 28 days of continuous application of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% PCE measured by Raman confocal spectroscopy technology.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>The PCE could downregulate the gene expression of inflammatory factors, indicating the ability of DNA repair. The number of senescent cells was also decreased after UVB stimulation. Furthermore, the results of in vivo study showed that PCE was an ideal cosmetic ingredient for promoting collagen levels.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-03-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143614879","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Formulation and evaluation of alternative to beeswax for vegan lipsticks.","authors":"Manuela Loiacono, Luigi Padovano, Miryam Chiara Malacarne, Simone Conti, Enrico Caruso","doi":"10.1111/ics.13060","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13060","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Honeybees' success is strictly linked to the chemical and application properties of their products: honey, beeswax (BW), venom, propolis, pollen and royal jelly. Among these products, BW, a natural compound secreted by bees, is particularly valued for its stability and is widely used in cosmetics for make-up and skincare production or in dermatology to produce creams. In recent years, there has been a growing awareness of the critical role these insects play in the ecosystem. Animal-derived ingredients are controversial and borderline with consumers' necessities. Therefore, whenever possible, similar ingredients from other sources are sought. The demand for vegan products is a global trend that influences all segments of consumer behaviour, including the choice of cosmetics. Given the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly products, BW, commonly used in lipstick formulations, needs to be replaced with a vegan alternative. In this paper, we report the development of a completely vegan lipstick. To predict the behaviour of structuring wax in a complex system, a compatibility study of the ABWAX® MIMIC BEESWAX MK, a vegan beeswax alternative (vBWA), with oils and colours was performed. The ABWAX® MIMIC BEESWAX MK and ABWAX® WHITE BEESWAX F.U. demonstrated similar thermal characteristics and penetration curves, showing overall comparable performances in finished products. We can conclude that ABWAX® MIMIC BEESWAX MK could be an innovative and highly effective alternative to animal-derived waxes in cosmetics.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-03-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143604739","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"New insights into hair compartments swelling via atomic force microscopy and dynamic vapour sorption.","authors":"Steven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker, Crisan Popescu","doi":"10.1111/ics.13061","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13061","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Preliminary investigations into the swelling of human hair upon absorbing moisture have been performed to better understand the roles of the various hair morphological subcompartments and their response to moisture.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The isotherms of moisture sorption exhibited by hair were recorded via Dynamic Vapour Sorption (DVS) for separated cuticle and for cortex. Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) imaging and nanoindentation were used to follow the changes in measured distances on the same areas of cuticle layers and cortex cells from a single fibre cross section, and to evaluate the change in these distances with changes in relative humidity.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The data acquired by DVS moisture sorption and by AFM for the various morphological components of the hair fibre allowed for the evaluation of their swelling. The values were then used for estimating the cross-linking density of each morphological component. A relationship between the mechanics of the cortex and the cuticle of the fibre and their cross-linking density values was found to follow logarithmic-like dependencies. The size of the crosslink meshes at 90% RH was also evaluated and found to be of the length of the stretched disulfide bond.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>The analysis of hair swelling provides information on the crosslinks inside the fibre. The models used for calculating the crosslink density and the size of the meshes, as well as the relationship suggested graphically between the crosslinking density values and Young's Modulus, point to cystine as the decisive factor in the swelling process; the different amounts of cystine in each morphological component lead to different values of their crosslinking density and to their differing responses to mechanical stress.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-03-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143604741","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}