International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"PEG-23 glyceryl distearate, a multifunctional skin-supporting material, upregulates the expression of factors associated with epidermal barrier and hydration.","authors":"Tatsuro Miyoshi, Brian C Keller, Sui Nakagawa, Takashi Ashino, Satoshi Numazawa","doi":"10.1111/ics.70005","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70005","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>As the outermost organ of the human body, the skin plays a critical role in protecting against external agents and oxidative stress, as well as in preventing excessive water loss. Among its layers, the stratum corneum of the epidermis is central to both barrier function and moisture retention, with its structural integrity significantly influencing skin health and appearance. Polyethylene glycol-23 glyceryl distearate (GDS-23) can form niosomes, liposome-like structures with multiple layers and serve as a carrier in drug delivery systems (DDS). We previously reported that GDS-23 exerts multiple biological effects, suppressing inflammation and enhancing the endogenous antioxidant system via Nrf2 activation through phosphorylation of the autophagy adaptor protein p62. In this study, we investigated the effects of GDS-23 on epidermal barrier function and moisture retention using normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) and a three-dimensional (3D) epidermal model, mimicking human skin structure.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>NHEKs and the 3D epidermal model were treated with GDS-23. Gene expression in NHEKs was analysed using real-time polymerase chain reaction, while the levels of epidermal barrier- and moisture retention-related factors in the 3D model were evaluated using immunofluorescence staining.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Treatment with GDS-23 upregulated the mRNA expression of genes involved in stratum cornea formation (filaggrin and loricrin), moisture retention (aquaporin 3 and hyaluronan synthase 3) and intercellular lipid synthesis (ceramide synthase, sulfotransferase 2B1 and peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α) in NHEKs. Additionally, treatment with K67, which inhibits p62 phosphorylation and thereby suppresses Nrf2 activation via a non-canonical mechanism, suppressed the GDS-23-induced expression of filaggrin, loricrin, ceramide synthase, sulfotransferase 2B1 and aquaporin 3. In the 3D epidermal model, GDS-23 treatment upregulated the expression of Nrf2, downstream antioxidant factors and proteins involved in stratum corneum formation and moisture regulation. Mechanistically, GDS-23 enhanced endogenous antioxidant function and modulated the expression of molecular markers associated with epidermal barrier and moisture retention, thereby potentially contributing to skin homeostasis.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>As GDS-23 contributes to the maintenance of skin homeostasis, it is expected to have future applications in the cosmetic field and in the treatment of skin disorders. Overall, GDS-23 holds promise as a \"multifunctional DDS material\" that promotes skin health.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144600332","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Bioactivity and physicochemical characterization of Centella asiatica and Marigold extract serums: Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase and skin barrier function insights.","authors":"Rizos Evangelos Bikiaris, Magdalena Paczkowska-Walendowska, Ioanna Koumentakou, Argyri Niti, Judyta Cielecka-Piontek, George Z Kyzas","doi":"10.1111/ics.70006","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70006","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Centella asiatica extract (CAE) and Marigold extract (ME) have been renowned for centuries in traditional medicine, particularly in Asia, for their wound-healing, anti-inflammatory and skin-regenerative properties. This study presents the formulation and comprehensive evaluation of serums enhanced with these extracts, aiming to harness their bioactive properties for skin health. Serums were selected over creams due to their lightweight, water-based nature, which ensures faster absorption and enhanced skin penetration of active ingredients. The serums, developed in varying concentrations (0.2%, 0.5% and 1.0%), were assessed for physicochemical properties, stability, bioactivity and skin barrier enhancement. Stability tests confirmed the serums' robustness, maintaining consistent pH (5.0-6.5), viscosity and organoleptic properties over 60 days. The MTT assay revealed that both extracts were non-cytotoxic, maintaining cell viability above 100%, with formulations containing CAE, demonstrating a concentration-dependent proliferative effect, reaching nearly 120%. Antibacterial evaluation using the agar well diffusion assay showed that both extracts exhibited considerable activity, with CAE achieving greater inhibition zones, particularly against S. aureus. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-tyrosinase activities confirmed the strong bioactive potential of both extracts in combating oxidative stress, reducing inflammation, and regulating pigmentation. Skin barrier and permeability studies demonstrated the serums' ability to improve barrier integrity and facilitate active compound delivery. These findings demonstrate the potential of Centella asiatica and Marigold extracts for multifunctional skincare formulations, combining regeneration, hydration, antioxidant and antibacterial benefits.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144600331","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Photoprotective efficacy of dibenzalacetone in sunscreen formulations: Physicochemical properties, synthesis, characterization, potential applications in sunscreen and biological activities.","authors":"Khaled E Abuelella, Saadalla Nady Gaid, Mahmoud Alaaeldin Khattab, Kareem O Rashwan, Nermin M Sheta","doi":"10.1111/ics.70002","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70002","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Sunscreens reduce the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) by reflecting, absorbing or scattering photons. UVR comprises ultraviolet-B (UVB), which plays a major role in sunburn and the development of skin cancers, and ultraviolet-A (UVA), which contributes to photoaging and skin damage. The application of sunscreen is among the most effective approaches to mitigating UV-induced damage. As a topical photoprotective agent, it can be classified as either inorganic (physical blockers) or organic (chemical absorbers). Physical sunscreens are particularly beneficial for people who are hypersensitive to UVA and visible light, such as those who have photosensitising diseases. Chemical sunscreens that selectively absorb UVB and/or UVA, include cinnamates, benzophenones, benzimidazoles and dibenzalacetone (DBA). DBA is a synthetic compound with potent UV-absorbing properties, making it an important component in sunscreen formulations for effective skin protection. This review provides a comprehensive analysis of DBA, focusing on its physicochemical properties, conventional synthesis methods and structural characterization using UV-Visible absorption spectroscopy, Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) and Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) spectroscopy. Furthermore, its potential applications in sunscreen formulations and other biological activities are critically investigated.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144600333","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The variability of in vivo sunscreen sun protection factor values.","authors":"Curtis Cole, Bertrand Colson, Steffen Uhlig","doi":"10.1111/ics.70000","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70000","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>14 July 2025: This article was published in Early View in error. The article is meant for a special issue to be published shortly.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144600334","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Scattering as part of the protection afforded by nanoparticulate filters - An example with tris-biphenyl triazine.","authors":"Myriam Sohn, Axelle Staudt, Katja Quass, Bernd Herzog","doi":"10.1111/ics.70001","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70001","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT) is an organic nanoparticulate UV filter for use in sunscreens. Thanks to its chemical structure and particulate properties, the effectiveness of TBPT is associated with both absorption and scattering processes. In our study, we evaluated how much of the UV protection of TBPT is linked to scattering, including forward and backward scattering.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>We employed a two steps approach. At first, we reproduced an earlier experimental design based on transmittance measurements of an aqueous dispersion of TBPT in cuvettes using a UV/vis-spectrometer with and without integrating sphere. Since the dispersion of TBPT is intended to be used in a finished sunscreen product, in a second phase, the supplied TBPT dispersion was added to a formulation, which was applied on a substrate plate to mimic the real use scenario. In this experimental setup, the scattering contribution was evaluated using transmittance measurements with an integrating sphere, both with closed and with open backward window.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The two approaches produced the same results for the experiments conducted in cuvettes and on plates. The percentage of scattering contribution is dependent on the wavelength, which is connected to the absorbance profile of TBPT. In the UVB range the efficacy of TBPT is primarily provided by absorption with little scattering. In the UVAI range (340-400 nm), where TBPT is not absorbing the protection is completely attributed to scattering. Also, the use concentration of TBPT was shown to impact the percentage of scattering. A decrease of the scattering effect is observed when the concentration of TBPT exceeds 3% (w). This can be attributed to the fact that in concentrated systems absorption becomes the main effect as the likelihood of scattered light hitting and being absorbed by another TBPT molecule increases due to the closer proximity of the molecules.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>This method can be used in the future to assess the scattering contribution of other particulate organic or inorganic UV filters or cosmetics particulate ingredients added in cosmetic formulations.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144608292","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Understanding the water consumption associated with the use of hair care products: The impact of six hair characteristics on rinsing shampoos and conditioners.","authors":"Dezeure Julie, Pereira-Doel Pablo, Font Xavier, Morizet David","doi":"10.1111/ics.13082","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13082","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Environmental life cycle assessment of hair care products shows that the highest environmental impact is associated with the use phase, rather than conception, production, packaging, distribution or disposal of the products themselves. To measure the water consumed in the use phase, an innovative and cost-effective methodology was developed and tested to measure the water consumed to rinse off hair care products (rinsability).</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Over 4 months, we tested the rinsability of 10 shampoos and 10 hair conditioners applied to 148 females, split between six hair characteristics: length, volume, dryness, thickness, curliness and damage. The volunteers were received in a hair salon on 20 different occasions for about 30 min each time. A team of hairdressers was specifically trained to detect two indicators of when a product is rinsed: a visual disappearance of the product and a clean touch. The volunteers were asked to have their hair washed at home 48 h before their arrival, using a standardized shampoo to control for sebum apparition.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>According to this test, on average, 7.1 L of water are needed to rinse a shampoo and 6.3 L to rinse a hair conditioner. However, there are significant differences depending on hair types: long and abundant hair requires more water to rinse shampoos and conditioners, whereas hair thickness, curliness, dryness and damage do not significantly affect the water required.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>We suggest that data on product rinsability are essential when considering the water footprint for shampoos and hair conditioners. This method could be adopted for industry-wide experimentation to assess the water footprint of products and set reduction targets.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144560102","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Evaluation of the effect of an extract of Sphingomonas xenophaga present in a Thermal Spring Water in the management of sensitive skin associated with cutaneous vascular disorder.","authors":"Pascal Hilaire, Carine Ballihaut, Celine Cornillon, Mark Donovan, Cosima Dufour-Schroif, Delphine Kerob, Jean-Jacques Schoonjans, Anna Veriato","doi":"10.1111/ics.13087","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13087","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>La Roche Posay Thermal Spring Water (LRP TSW), which contains specific minerals and possesses a unique microbial composition, has proven anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, pre- and post-biotic properties and an ability to improve skin barrier function. Our objective was to confirm the effectiveness of a biomass isolated from LRP TSW on inflammatory and vascular parameters in sensitive skin.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>A fully characterized strain of Sphingomonas xenophaga was isolated from LRP TSW. An industrial fermentation process was developed to obtain a reproducible biomass (the 'ferment extract') in order to evaluate its effect on skin parameters in vitro and in vivo. Inhibition of pre-kallikrein activity, which converts pro-bradykinin into inflammatory vasoactive bradykinin, by the ferment extract was determined in vitro. In vivo, the effect of a 4-week, twice-daily application of a 2% ferment extract cream formulation on vascular disorders was investigated in a randomized study including 86 Caucasian female subjects presenting permanent redness and vascular disorder on the face in comparison to the cream vehicle.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The ferment extract inhibited in a dose-dependent manner pre-kallikrein activity in vitro, inducing 46% and 97% inhibition at concentrations of 0.4% and 0.5%, respectively. In vivo after 28 days of twice-daily applications of the ferment extract and vehicle, both treatments induced a significant decrease in vascular disorder as evaluated by clinical scoring (Dermascore® device with cross-polarized light). The mean decrease in vascular disorder score from baseline was significantly greater (p < 0.05) in the ferment extract group (-0.36) when compared to vehicle (-0.18). In addition, 60% of subjects in the group treated with the formulated ferment extract had a decreased score compared to 33% for the group treated with the vehicle.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Inhibition of the production of inflammatory vasoactive bradykinin by the ferment extract observed in vitro is in line with the anti-inflammatory effects of the formulated extract as shown in subjects with facial vascular disorder. The results in this study suggest that this ferment extract is a potentially new active ingredient that could be used either alone or in combination with other soothing agents to target skin inflammatory pathways and to improve skin vascular disorder.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-06-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144368848","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"TRPV3 calcium channel at the crossroads of epidermal differentiation and inflammation.","authors":"Emma Fraillon, Fabien P Chevalier, Bérengère Fromy","doi":"10.1111/ics.13090","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13090","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Skin acts as a crucial barrier, protecting the body from external threats through a complex interplay of physical, chemical and immunological mechanisms. The transient receptor potential vanilloid 3 (TRPV3) channel, highly expressed in epidermal keratinocytes, emerges as a key regulator of skin homeostasis, influencing both epidermal differentiation and inflammation. This review explores the multifaceted role of TRPV3, highlighting its involvement in keratinocyte terminal differentiation and its association with inflammatory skin conditions. We discuss the current understanding of TRPV3's function in epidermal differentiation, focusing on the transforming factor-α/epidermal growth factor receptor (TGF-α/EGFR) pathway and provide new avenues of exploration for potential downstream signalling cascades. We also examine how TRPV3 hyperactivity contributes to skin inflammation drawing upon evidence from genetic studies in mice and humans with inflammatory skin conditions. Finally, we address how TRPV3 inhibition through antagonist molecules or biological negative regulation could represent potential therapeutic strategies for TRPV3-mediated inflammation. Focusing on TRPV3-driven signalling networks, this review outlines its dual role in skin homeostasis and disease, and sets the stage for future investigations into its molecular and therapeutic implications.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-06-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144325636","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Simultaneous determination of sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone in cosmetic products.","authors":"Santhosha Shetty, Richa Mehta, Ratnadeep Paul Choudhury","doi":"10.1111/ics.13091","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13091","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>The increasing prevalence of sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone in a wide range of cosmetic formulations has created a crucial need for robust and reliable analytical methods to ensure product quality, optimize formulations and meet regulatory standards. Sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone, two highly sought-after humectants renowned for their remarkable water-binding properties, present significant analytical challenges during quantification. Sodium hyaluronate, a complex polymeric structure, lacks a UV-absorbing chromophore and gluconolactone needs an indirect technique (derivatization/conversion to gluconic acid) to be quantified, which makes these analyses quite challenging in cosmetic products.</p><p><strong>Method: </strong>This study directly addresses this critical gap in cosmetic analysis by developing and validating a novel method for the simultaneous determination of sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone in cosmetic compositions. This method employs size exclusion liquid chromatography (SEC), a powerful separation technique ideal for analysing polymers and macromolecules, coupled with sensitive UV detection. Using a BioSep SEC S2000 column and an isocratic mobile phase of 0.05 M potassium dihydrogen phosphate (pH 7.0), we achieved efficient separation and detection at 205 nm, enabling the quantification of both compounds despite the absence of strong chromophores.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Rigorous method validation confirmed the reliability and robustness of this approach. The method demonstrated excellent linearity (r² > 0.999) over a wide concentration range of 25-1000 μg/mL for both sodium hyaluronate and gluconolactone, ensuring accurate quantification across diverse formulation concentrations. Additionally, high precision (RSD ≤1.22%), specificity against common cosmetic excipients and satisfactory recovery rates (80%-120%) further validate the method's suitability for routine quality control analysis in the cosmetic industry.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>This sensitive, accurate and robust SEC-UV method provides a valuable new tool for cosmetic manufacturers to ensure the quality, efficacy and consumer safety of products containing these key ingredients.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-06-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144309915","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Anti-melanogenic effects of Medicago sativa seed extracts on melanocytes.","authors":"Chae Rin Kim, Jung Woo, Kyu Lim Kim, Minah Choi, Hee Jung Shin, Junoh Kim, Kyung Min Lim, Chang-Seok Lee","doi":"10.1111/ics.13092","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13092","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Alfalfa (Medicago sativa) is a prominent herbal treatment among Asian countries and its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects have already been generally elucidated. Excessive melanin synthesis is one of the major troubles in the cosmetics industry, thus such research has been extensively described. Here, we investigated the anti-melanogenic effects and molecular mechanisms of two types of alfalfa extracts: alfalfa ethanol precipitate (AEP) and alfalfa ethanol supernatant (AES).</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The chemical composition of AEP and AES was analysed using HPAEC-PAD and LC-MS/MS. B16F10 cells and MNT-1 cells were used to demonstrate the inhibitory effect of two alfalfa seed extracts on melanin synthesis. The gene expression and protein levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), DCT and microphthalmia-associated factor (MITF) were confirmed using semi-quantitative RT-PCR, western blot and immunocytochemistry. Furthermore, the underlying mechanisms of these factors were elucidated in B16F10. The inhibitory effect on melanogenesis was validated using 3D artificial skin (MelanoDerm).</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Both AEP and AES reduced melanin content in B16F10 cells stimulated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and subsequently decreased mRNA and protein levels of the melanogenesis-related targets, tyrosinase, TRP1 and MITF, as shown by semi-quantitative RT-PCR and immunocytochemistry. In addition, AEP and AES reduced protein levels of the MITF upstream regulators such as extracellular signal-mitogen-activated protein kinases (ERK), cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and β-catenin. Similar inhibition of melanin production and decreased expression of tyrosinase protein and MITF mRNA and protein were also confirmed in MNT-1 human melanoma cells. Using artificial human skin tissue (MelanoDerm), a significant reduction in melanin content was observed.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Alfalfa seed extracts exert an inhibitory effect on the melanin production process by modulating the activity of ERK, CREB and β-catenin, thereby suppressing MITF and reducing the levels of tyrosinase, TRP1 and DCT. Collectively, these findings suggest that alfalfa extracts may be a promising avenue for further research and development in the fields of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-06-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144309833","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}