International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

Bacterial porphyrins in healthy skin: Microbiota components impact melanogenesis and age-related processes leading to Porphyr'ageing. 健康皮肤中的细菌卟啉：微生物群成分影响黑色素生成和与年龄相关的过程，导致卟啉老化。

IF 2.5 4区医学

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2025-09-10 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70014

Marie Meunier, Morgane De Tollenaere, Cyrille Jarrin, Emilie Chapuis, Marine Bracq, Laura Lapierre, Catherine Zanchetta, Jean Tiguemounine, Amandine Scandolera, Romain Reynaud

{"title":"Bacterial porphyrins in healthy skin: Microbiota components impact melanogenesis and age-related processes leading to Porphyr'ageing.","authors":"Marie Meunier, Morgane De Tollenaere, Cyrille Jarrin, Emilie Chapuis, Marine Bracq, Laura Lapierre, Catherine Zanchetta, Jean Tiguemounine, Amandine Scandolera, Romain Reynaud","doi":"10.1111/ics.70014","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70014","url":null,"abstract":"Objective: Porphyrins are ubiquitous metabolites and are constitutive of the bacterial metabolome of healthy skin. Their consideration has until now been limited to their pro-inflammatory activity in acne vulgaris. The present work suggests a new role for these molecules in the onset of skin ageing.Methods: A mixture of coproporphyrin III and protoporphyrin IX, representative of skin microbiota metabolites, was defined and applied in different skin models. Finally, an in vivo study was conducted to determine the association between porphyrin's abundance and ageing signs.Results: Bacterial porphyrins penetrated stratum corneum and reached living epidermal cells. The porphyrin mixture increased IL-8, ROS and melanin contents. Porphyrin-induced melanin synthesis appeared to be regulated by translocator protein TSPO/PBR. In fibroblasts, bacterial metabolites down-regulated a set of transcripts involved in extracellular matrix architecture and associated with ageing, which was confirmed by a decrease of type I pro-collagen. Finally, the clinical study established positive and significant correlations between porphyrin abundance and the severity of ageing signs, including invisible spots, brown spots and wrinkles length.Conclusion: In summary, porphyrins could play unexpected roles in skin's premature ageing process, a phenomenon we propose to call Porphyr'ageing, that promotes hyperpigmentation, inflammation, oxidative stress and fibroblast cell ageing, leading to dermal matrix weakening.","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145033347","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Cyclic combing of untreated and bleached human hair: Analysis of the time-dependent breakage of hair through recording the formation of fibre fragments. 循环梳理未经处理和漂白的人类头发：通过记录纤维碎片的形成分析头发的时间依赖性断裂。

IF 2.5 4区医学

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2025-09-10 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70016

Thomas Davies, Gabriele Wortmann, Franz J Wortmann

{"title":"Cyclic combing of untreated and bleached human hair: Analysis of the time-dependent breakage of hair through recording the formation of fibre fragments.","authors":"Thomas Davies, Gabriele Wortmann, Franz J Wortmann","doi":"10.1111/ics.70016","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70016","url":null,"abstract":"Objectives: Machine-based cyclic combing of hair tresses under dry conditions is a proven method for evaluating hair strength and the impact of treatments. Recent advancements in image analysis allow for a detailed review of hair fragment lengths and quantities produced after specific combing cycles. Our aim is to provide an in-depth analysis of the kinetics of hair fragment formation.Methods: We analysed the combing performance of untreated and bleached European straight hair, assessing two conditioning treatments. Hair tresses underwent 5000 combing cycles, with the increasing number of fragments recorded. Results were fitted using a three-parameter Voigt-Kelvin model.Results: The fragment counts were log-normally distributed in all cases. The model uses ln(N0) to indicate early fragment release, showing higher numbers for bleached hair compared to untreated hair, which significantly drop with conditioner treatments. The ln(N∞) parameter estimates the maximum expected fragments. The Failure Cycle Index (FCI) remains largely unchanged across materials according to its 95% confidence limits.Conclusions: The selected function's characteristics and the invariance of FCI indicate that friction primarily controls fragment formation in straight hair during combing. This suggest that there is no direct link between combing performance and tensile fatigue failure for this hair type. In contrast, textured hair will likely show more complex combing performance. Our analysis shows that the total number of fragments after many combing cycles can predict early failures and assess conditioning agents, thereby supporting product claims about 'hair strength'.","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145033345","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Development of a lip colour chart across four ethnicities. 开发四个种族的唇色图表。

IF 2.5 4区医学

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2025-09-10 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70004

Zoé Charton, Héloïse Vergnaud, Laurence Caisey, David Blumenthal, Michael Ma, Anthony Shi, Virginie Couturaud, Tony Xu, Eléonore Loescher

{"title":"Development of a lip colour chart across four ethnicities.","authors":"Zoé Charton, Héloïse Vergnaud, Laurence Caisey, David Blumenthal, Michael Ma, Anthony Shi, Virginie Couturaud, Tony Xu, Eléonore Loescher","doi":"10.1111/ics.70004","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70004","url":null,"abstract":"In the human face, the lips play a key role in social interactions and are a major element of makeup strategies. However, the amount of data available on lips, particularly relating to colour, is limited in comparison to that on skin. To gain a better understanding of lip colour, this study aimed to assess its diversity across four ethnicities (Asian Chinese, African American, Hispanic American and Caucasian American and French). The final objective was to develop a lip colour chart to guide cosmetic product development. A total of 514 women aged from 19 to 68 years were recruited in the USA, France and China. Their natural lower lip colour was measured with a full-face hyperspectral imaging system, SpectraFace® (Newtone Technologies, Lyon, France). The data showed a large variety in lip colour between and within each ethnicity. Important overlaps were found between ethnic groups, particularly and surprisingly between Hispanic and Asian women. This allowed for the development of a lip colour chart composed of 53 lip tones, based upon lightness and hue, as a global reference guide for lip colour assessment. Hispanic women showed the largest diversity, represented in 32 of the chart tones. The present study revealed a large lip colour diversity across four ethnic groups. The inter-group overlaps demonstrate that lip colour is not solely defined by individual ethnic belonging. The 53 lip tones described here could be used as target shades to create more inclusive nude lipsticks in the near future.","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145033341","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

New alternatives in photoprotection: Preparation and evaluation of lamellar silicate derivatives and their use as sunscreens. 光防护的新替代品：层状硅酸盐衍生物的制备和评价及其作为防晒霜的应用。

IF 2.5 4区医学

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2025-09-10 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70008

Daniel Mabundu Kibwila, Alice Simon, Letícia Coli Louvisse de Abreu, Carlos Rangel Rodrigues, Valeria Pereira de Sousa, Marcelo de Pádula, Lucio Mendes Cabral

{"title":"New alternatives in photoprotection: Preparation and evaluation of lamellar silicate derivatives and their use as sunscreens.","authors":"Daniel Mabundu Kibwila, Alice Simon, Letícia Coli Louvisse de Abreu, Carlos Rangel Rodrigues, Valeria Pereira de Sousa, Marcelo de Pádula, Lucio Mendes Cabral","doi":"10.1111/ics.70008","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70008","url":null,"abstract":"Objective: The objective of this work is to investigate different sunscreens and Viscogel group organoclays for the preparation of new intercalated sunscreens to improve the effectiveness and safety in photoprotection using new approach methodology (NAMs).Methods: For this study, we examined Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), Bemotrizinol (BEMT) and Viscogel S4®, S7®, and B8® using a set of Saccharomyces cerevisiae mutant strains that are sensitive to UVA, UVB and Solar Simulated Light (SSL) to evaluate their photoprotective and mutagenic potential. Additionally, we developed delaminated nanocomposites by chemical intercalation reactions followed by ultrasonic treatment to enhance clay exfoliation. These nanocomposites were then characterized using X-ray Powder Diffraction (XRPD), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA) and Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS).Results: As a function of photoprotective action and safety, the combination of Viscogel S4® and OMC filter was chosen for nanocomposite development. Our results evidenced the intercalation of the OMC in the organoclay (S4 + OMC-NC). Survival and mutagenesis tests indicated a positive effect of the formulation, as it increased cell survival to SSL, even without reducing mutagenesis, while its respective physical mixture was unable to provide antimutagenic protection.Conclusion: S4 + OMC-NC showed promising results for photoprotection, offering cellular protection combined with antimutagenic effects upon SSL exposure. This formulation enables prospects for the preparation of new, effective and safe photoprotective formulations.","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145033419","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Key locations of oxidative damage in human hair keratins after heat and ultraviolet light exposure. 高温和紫外线照射后人体头发角蛋白氧化损伤的关键部位。

IF 2.5 4区医学

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2025-09-10 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13081

Jeffrey E Plowman, Anita J Grosvenor, Santanu Deb-Choudhury, Fraser Bell, Julie Roberts, Stefan Clerens

{"title":"Key locations of oxidative damage in human hair keratins after heat and ultraviolet light exposure.","authors":"Jeffrey E Plowman, Anita J Grosvenor, Santanu Deb-Choudhury, Fraser Bell, Julie Roberts, Stefan Clerens","doi":"10.1111/ics.13081","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13081","url":null,"abstract":"Objective: This study investigated the locations of amino acid modifications within two major human hair keratins (Type I K31 and Type II K85) with probable implications for protein and hair structural component integrity. The particular focus was on cysteine modifications that disrupt intra-protein and inter-protein disulphide bonds.Methods: Human hair was exposed to accelerated, sequential heat or UV treatments, simulating effects resulting from the use of heated styling tools and environmental exposure over a time frame approximating one year. The proteins were extracted and detected using LC-MS/MS and identified by matching to protein databases. The sites of disulphide-disrupting amino acid residue modifications were mapped to known structural domains of the keratins.Results: Disulphide bond-disrupting cysteine modifications (formation of cysteic acid and dehydroalanine) arose in K31 and K85 after treatments with UV and with heat. These modifications were mapped to both the relatively amorphous (head) regions of the keratins, which bind with keratin-associated proteins, and the more structured coil regions, which bind to other keratins.Conclusion: These data provide confirmation that heat- and UV-induced disulphide bond disruption resulted in post-translational modifications that are crucial for secondary structural interactions, the loss of which has the potential to affect the loss of structural integrity observed in human hair after the use of repeated styling processes or prolonged weathering from sunlight exposure.","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145029734","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Correction to International Journal of Cosmetic Science: Volume 47, Issue 4 修正国际化妆品科学杂志：第47卷，第4期

IF 2.5 4区医学

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2025-09-08 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70022

引用次数: 0

Bioretinoids from microalgae: Boosting retinol performance and tolerability. 来自微藻的类生物维生素a：提高视黄醇性能和耐受性。

IF 2.5 4区医学

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2025-09-04 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70027

Silvia Sánchez-Díez, Alexandre Lapeyre, Noemí García-Delgado, Jordi Ayats

{"title":"Bioretinoids from microalgae: Boosting retinol performance and tolerability.","authors":"Silvia Sánchez-Díez, Alexandre Lapeyre, Noemí García-Delgado, Jordi Ayats","doi":"10.1111/ics.70027","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70027","url":null,"abstract":"Objective: Skin ageing, hyperpigmentation, and texture are common dermatological concerns. Retinoids, including retinol, are widely used for their efficacy in treating these conditions. However, their side effects, such as irritation, often limit their use. Bakuchiol, a plant-derived retinoid alternative, has gained attention for its gentler profile, but its efficacy remains a subject of comparison with traditional retinoids. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a novel microalgae-derived bioretinoid (MBR) in comparison to retinol and bakuchiol in promoting skin regeneration, reducing ageing signs, and addressing hyperpigmentation.Methods: The effects of MBR were evaluated in vitro for cell proliferation, melanin production, and extracellular matrix modulation. Clinically, MBR was applied to assess improvements in skin texture, firmness, elasticity, and pigmentation compared with reference treatments.Results: In vitro, MBR significantly outperformed both retinol and bakuchiol in cell proliferation, melanin reduction, and ECM modulation. In vivo, MBR improved skin texture, firmness, and pigmentation, showing results comparable to retinol. MBR also synergistically enhanced retinol's effects, improving hydration and reducing irritation.Conclusion: MBR is a promising alternative to traditional retinoids, offering enhanced efficacy in skin regeneration and pigmentation control with a more favourable safety profile, especially when combined with retinol.","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144992446","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Recovery effects of various skin lipid components and their structural derivatives on skin barrier damage. 各种皮肤脂质成分及其结构衍生物对皮肤屏障损伤的恢复作用。

IF 2.5 4区医学

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2025-09-04 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70023

Sang Gwon Seo, Tae Geun Kwon, Ji Won Ha, Jooyoung Oh, Moon Joo Kim, Sohyun In

{"title":"Recovery effects of various skin lipid components and their structural derivatives on skin barrier damage.","authors":"Sang Gwon Seo, Tae Geun Kwon, Ji Won Ha, Jooyoung Oh, Moon Joo Kim, Sohyun In","doi":"10.1111/ics.70023","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70023","url":null,"abstract":"Objective: Skin lipids, such as ceramides (CERs), play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier. Although the benefits of CERs are well known, few studies have investigated the effects of other skin lipid components on the skin barrier. Therefore, this study compared the efficacy of several skin lipid components and their structural derivatives, including CERs, on the skin barrier.Methods: The water-holding capacity and occlusion factor were determined to evaluate the moisture barrier and sealing effects, respectively, of creams containing various skin lipid components. A human study using sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) to induce skin damage was also conducted to explore skin barrier recovery. Epidermal thickness and density were measured using an ultrasonic instrument.Results: The cream containing behenic acid (BA) had the best water-holding capacity, and the creams with CER and BA significantly increased the occlusion factor. The BA-containing cream had a cubic structural pattern in the small-angle X-ray scattering analysis, which may explain the high occlusion factor. In SDS-damaged skin, transepidermal water loss recovered significantly faster in skin areas treated with cream containing BA and CER compared with non-treated skin.Conclusion: This study compares the skin barrier recovery effects of skin lipid components, demonstrating that BA elicits a high skin barrier recovery effect similar to that of CER, which has known efficacy. BA also had an excellent sealing effect through lipid packaging, whereas CER had a combined sealing effect and increased the epidermal thickness and density. These results provide foundational evidence for formulating products that help restore the skin barrier by supplying lipids to the skin surface.","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144992167","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Influence of anionic surfactants on coacervation with cationic guar gum for hair care applications. 阴离子表面活性剂对护发用阳离子瓜尔胶凝聚的影响。

IF 2.5 4区医学

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2025-09-04 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70025

Gael Alexander López-Sucilla, Sergio Alberto Bernal-Chávez

{"title":"Influence of anionic surfactants on coacervation with cationic guar gum for hair care applications.","authors":"Gael Alexander López-Sucilla, Sergio Alberto Bernal-Chávez","doi":"10.1111/ics.70025","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70025","url":null,"abstract":"Objective: To assess the impact of anionic surfactants on the formation of coacervates with cationic guar gum and their subsequent effects on hair care.Methods: Coacervates were prepared using ionic precipitation techniques involving four anionic surfactants: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (SNL), sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (SLSA), sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) and cationic guar gum. Viscosity, spreadability and stickiness sensory analysis were conducted with a panel of volunteers. The coacervates were freeze-dried, and their physicochemical properties were analysed using Raman and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy and thermogravimetric analysis.Results: Coacervate formation and stability were dependent on the CGG-to-surfactant ratio, with 0.5% CGG/0.5% surfactant producing the most stable, uniform structures. Spectroscopic analyses confirmed stronger electrostatic and hydrogen bonding interactions at higher CGG concentrations, facilitating greater polymer-surfactant integration. Thermal analysis showed that balanced CGG/surfactant ratios enhanced coacervate stability, while excess surfactant led to lower thermal resistance and weaker deposition. SEM images revealed superior adhesion and homogeneous coverage on damaged hair fibres at 0.5% CGG/0.5% surfactant, suggesting better conditioning effects compared to lower polymer content.Conclusion: The findings emphasize that coacervate stability, deposition efficiency and adhesion to hair fibres are optimized when CGG and surfactants are present in balanced ratios. The 0.5% CGG/0.5% surfactant formulation consistently exhibited superior stability, coverage and interaction with damaged hair, reinforcing its potential as an effective conditioning and protective system. These insights provide a foundation for improving coacervate-based hair care formulations, ensuring enhanced performance and long-term benefits.","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144992100","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Strengthening benefits of panthenol for hair: Mechanistic evidence from advanced spectroscopic techniques. 泛醇对头发的强化益处：来自先进光谱技术的机理证据。

IF 2.5 4区医学

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2025-09-04 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70024

Jennifer M Marsh, Scott Cron, Tian Chen, Allison Talley, Shane Whitaker, Haibo Jiang, Kai Xue

{"title":"Strengthening benefits of panthenol for hair: Mechanistic evidence from advanced spectroscopic techniques.","authors":"Jennifer M Marsh, Scott Cron, Tian Chen, Allison Talley, Shane Whitaker, Haibo Jiang, Kai Xue","doi":"10.1111/ics.70024","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70024","url":null,"abstract":"Objective: Small molecules, like panthenol have been shown to penetrate hair. However, their interactions with the protein structures of hair have not been well studied. In this study, the penetration of panthenol into protein structures of hair was confirmed, and NMR methods were utilized to understand the protein-panthenol interaction. This interaction is likely the source of the tensile strength benefits measured with panthenol for hair.Methods: Cross-sections of hair treated with deuterium-labelled panthenol were studied using NanoSIMS to visualize the location of panthenol within hair. Solid-state NMR (both 1H-13C and 1H-2H) was employed to measure panthenol interactions inside hair using deuterium-labelled panthenol. Stress/strain curves-where stress is defined as average force per unit area-were measured for hair treated with and without panthenol to generate tensile strength data.Results: Penetration of panthenol into hair was demonstrated, with images indicating specific penetration into cortical protein regions. NMR results from various experiments provided evidence of direct interaction between the N-H of panthenol and protein aromatic side chains. A 'shared' proton was identified between panthenol and hair proteins, indicating spatial proximity and interaction. Break stress and elastic modulus of hair treated with panthenol were higher than those of control hair, suggesting that bonds-likely hydrogen bonds-were formed between panthenol and hair.Conclusion: Panthenol can deliver tensile strength benefits to hair. This benefit is proposed to result from hydrogen bonds formed between panthenol and hair proteins.","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144992217","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0