International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"SCAWA scales: A new digital tool for wrinkles clinical grading based on AI.","authors":"Juliette Rengot, Elodie Prestat-Marquis, Ingrid Aime, Jean-Robert Campos, Etienne Camel, Ghislain François","doi":"10.1111/ics.12995","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12995","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Clinical assessment of wrinkle depth is essential for efficacy evaluations of anti-ageing products. Standardized photographic scales, representative of different wrinkle depths are often used by experts to assign subjects reliable grades. These tools, based on real pictures, usually exist as hard copies (printed books or sheets) for in vivo gradings. Our project aims at developing a methodology to create digital standardized computer-generated scales, allowing photograph and real-life gradings, and providing raters with greater comfort, accessibility, and flexibility in their construction, thanks to the artificial intelligence significative contribution.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>A completely new approach, based on machine learning, allows the creation of Standardized ColorFace® AI-based Wrinkle Assessment (SCAWA) scales. Instead of using real photographs, the scale images are computer-generated. A generative adversarial network (GAN) is trained to create realistic wrinkle samples that are finely controllable by exploring the GAN latent space. Finally, the scale images are selected among hundreds of artificial images depicting natural wrinkle appearances, such as the illustrated wrinkle evolution is well-detailed (small gaps between grades), morphologically stable, and mathematically linear according to a criterion of wrinkle conspicuous depth.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The created 12-point scale for crow's feet wrinkle evaluation on ColorFace® pictures is proven to be realistic, linear, and robustly and accurately usable for photograph assessments. The scale coherence in terms of image ranking has been validated, as well as its reliability and acceptability in real conditions of use. Additionally, the wrinkle grades obtained by the SCAWA scale are well correlated (R = 0.94) with the ones obtained by the Skin Aging Atlas on the same pictures. The AI methodology and digital format brought also interesting side results, such as an enhanced harmonization between experts and a higher representativeness, that is, a decrease of out-of-range pictures.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>SCAWA scale makes the most of machine learning to provide an innovative digital tool to ease wrinkles in visual assessment of pictures, while optimizing linearity, homogeneity, and accuracy aspects. The experts' enthusiastic feedback about the scale format and quality is promising regarding the adaptation of the methodology to other signs and a larger distribution of this tool in the market of cosmetic product efficacy assessment.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142346173","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Microalgae-based sunscreens as green and sustainable cosmetic products.","authors":"Asal Najafi, Mobina Heidary, Renata Miliani Martinez, André Rolim Baby, Mohammad Hossein Morowvat","doi":"10.1111/ics.13019","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13019","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Recently, microalgal biotechnology has attained great acceptance among various researchers and industries for the green and sustainable production of different bioactive compounds. They provide multiple metabolites and molecules, making them an ideal candidate for cosmetic formulators and cosmeceutical companies. Nevertheless, numerous microalgae strains have never been studied for their pharmaceutical, nutritional and cosmeceutical purposes. Even less, only some have been cultivated on a large scale for bioactive compound production. Here, we have studied the cosmetic and cosmeceutical potentials of different microalgal strains for sunscreen as adjuvants and boosters in a green, carbon-neutral and sustainable platform. Other bioactive compounds were exploited, and the available products in the market and the published patents were also reviewed. From our review, it will be possible to combine the fundamental and practical aspects of microalgal biotechnology toward a greener and more sustainable future for the cosmetic/cosmeceutical areas of the photoprotection scenario.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142286395","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Identification of a higher C-S lyase activity of Staphylococcus hominis in volunteers with unpleasant axillary odour.","authors":"Christine Grimaldi, Sophie Gilardeau, Laurie Verzeaux, Océane Guedj, Stéphanie Richer, Aliette Laspoussas, Maud Le Guillou, Hélène Muchico, Elodie Aymard, Brigitte Closs","doi":"10.1111/ics.13024","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13024","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Excessive and unpleasant odours that emanate from the skin can induce bromhidrosis and substantially impair a person's quality of life. Enzymatic pathways generating unpleasant odours are well detailed, and among them, the C-S lyase is one of the enzymes involved in the conversion of non-volatile precursors into thiol-type malodorous volatile molecules such as 3M3SH. This study aimed to investigate the variation of axillary odour intensity correlated with Staphylococcus (S.) hominis C-S lyase activity within a group of volunteers after a physical activity.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>First, a group of 24 volunteers from the same ethnicity with standardized hygienic and alimentary practices participated in a supervised indoor cycling activity. Following this session, worn T-shirts were recovered to enable the olfactory evaluation of axillary odours by qualified experts. To go further, the microbiota from the axillary zone of each volunteer was sampled and the bacterial relative abundance was investigated by using 16S rRNA metasequencing. Then, S. hominis isolates were obtained by culturomics from these microbiota samples and the C-S lyase activity was measured by spectrofluorometry in protein crude extracts.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The evaluation of the odour intensity revealed that within the panel, two groups were significantly distinct. A non-odorous group and a malodorous one with volunteers having unpleasant odours. The 16S rRNA metasequencing reveals differences in bacterial communities between the two groups with a significant increase in the relative abundance of S. hominis in the malodorous group compared with the non-odorous one. The C-S lyase activities measured on S. hominis sampled on volunteers from the two groups demonstrate that for an equivalent quantity of protein, this enzymatic activity is significantly higher for the samples originating from the malodorous group.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Hence, this study demonstrates that beyond the increase of S. hominis relative abundance, the C-S lyase enzymatic activity of this bacteria is also higher in volunteers with unpleasant axillary odours.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142286394","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Development and characterization of topical formulation for maintenance therapy containing sorbitan monostearate with and without PEG-100-stearate.","authors":"Hans Schoenfelder, Yvonne Wiedemann, Dominique Jasmin Lunter","doi":"10.1111/ics.13023","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13023","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Basic therapy is an integral part of the treatment of chronic skin diseases. However, the formulation of skin products should be analysed with respect to the physical stability and tolerance by the patients before applying them to diseased skin. In particular, the suitability of the formulation for use on damaged skin should be taken into consideration so that no exacerbation of the condition is caused.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The following approach investigated two formulations with the emulsifier sorbitan monostearate and one with the addition of polyethylene glycol 100 stearyl ether. The characterization included rheology, macroscopic and microscopic cream analysis compared to marketed products for basic therapy. Pyranine staining of stratum corneum (SC) and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed with ex vivo porcine SC to asses skin barrier function.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The rheological characterization showed a gel-like, viscoelastic behaviour of the formulations and a viscosity in the same order of magnitude as the marketed products. Staining with pyranine revealed that skin damage caused by sodium lauryl sulfate was compensated by treatment with the developed formulations. Following the same trend, TEWL results clearly showed decreasing values, which evidence improved skin barrier function.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>In conclusion, the developed sorbitan monostearate formulations can potentially improve deficient skin barrier function as a part of basic therapy of skin diseases and act as a superior alternative to market products comprising a minimum of well-chosen ingredients.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142286393","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Thermoporometry measurements of human hair via differential scanning calorimetry.","authors":"Taichi Habe, Shigeto Inoue, Steven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker, Crisan Popescu","doi":"10.1111/ics.13025","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13025","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Hair fibres possess an inherently porous structure, which is affected by physical and chemical agents from the environment, as well as those from cosmetic treatments. The present work aims to investigate the potential of a calorimetric method for evaluating the changes of hair porosity, in terms of pore size and size distribution.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The temperature of the phase transition from solid to liquid is known to be depressed if the liquid is confined within a pore. This shift in temperature can be measured by a calorimetric method like differential scanning calorimetry, DSC. This method is termed thermoporometry and it is the tool used for investigating hair porosity in this work.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Virgin and bleached hair fibres are measured by DSC and, by using the equations developed for water behaviour confined in pores of a solid, the size and size distribution of the hair pores are evaluated, and the influence of the cosmetic treatment on the pores is discussed.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Thermoporometry measurements of hair produced results in good agreement with those obtained by other methods for measuring hair porosity. The analysis of the data suggests that the fibre pores are mostly of a radius of 4 nm, and that the bleaching process increases the total volume of pores through the addition of smaller pores. A prolonged bleaching process appears to reduce the amount of fine pores produced by the first short process, resulting in fewer, but larger, cavities, most likely through a process of pore-merging.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142286396","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Application of the upcycling trend using ultrafiltrate of water from the production of collagen from fish skin in hair care cosmetics","authors":"Joanna Igielska‐Kalwat, Ewa Kilian‐Pięta, Maciej Siedlecki","doi":"10.1111/ics.13015","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13015","url":null,"abstract":"The aim of the research problem of the article was to try to popularize the upcycling trend in the production of sustainable cosmetics and to confirm their effectiveness. The development of recycled raw materials is a new discovery in the chemical industry. Manufacturers emphasize the production of more environmentally friendly raw materials. Conscious consumers choose cosmetics whose production is based on sustainable development. Instead of throwing away waste from various industries, let us use it to produce active substances used in hair cosmetics. The production of the collagen series was created in accordance with the principles of upcycling, which involves obtaining collagen water, which is waste generated during the production of supplements. The main goal of the work was to learn cosmetic recipes for styling, washing and conditioning hair based on collagen waste, as well as to compare the results of people using the product in question. The aim of the study was also to demonstrate the effectiveness of the treatment in preventing split ends and hair breakage, usually caused by mechanical stress (brushing), as well as to confirm the effectiveness of other tests. The article presents procedures and parameters confirming the effectiveness of treatment with the tested hair products. The following tests were carried out: hair thickness and density, colour uniformity, shine factor and scalp hydration. All parameters numerically confirmed the beneficial effects of products containing collagen water used in hair care.","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-09-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142223079","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The effect of degeneration of elastic fibres on loss of elasticity and wrinkle formation","authors":"Shinya Kondo, Naoko Ozawa, Tetsuhito Sakurai","doi":"10.1111/ics.13021","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13021","url":null,"abstract":"ObjectiveSkin elasticity, which is vital for a youthful appearance, depends on the elastic fibres in the dermis. However, these fibres deteriorate with ageing, resulting in wrinkles and sagging. Changes that occur in the elastic fibres in living human skin and the relationship between elastic fibres and the state of the skin surface remain unclear. Therefore, it is necessary to verify the relationship between elastic fibres and skin elasticity. In this study, we investigated the association of the elastic fibre structure with skin elasticity and stratum corneum protein content in living human skin.MethodsThirty‐five female volunteers aged 25–66 years were included in this study. Elastic fibres were observed using a multiphoton scanning laser biomicroscope. Skin elasticity was measured using a Cutometer, and stratum corneum proteins (Heat‐shock protein 27 [HSP27] and galectin‐7 [Gal‐7]) in tape‐stripped samples were analysed using an enzyme‐linked immunosorbent assay.ResultsElastic fibres exhibited increased curvature and thickness with increased age, with fragmentation observed in women aged &gt;60 years. Elastin scores, which reflect thinness and curvature, were negatively correlated with age, whereas they were positively correlated with R7 elasticity (recovery ability). In individuals aged 20–30 years, higher levels of inflammatory markers (HSP27 and Gal‐7) correlated with lower elastin scores; however, this trend was not observed in older participants.ConclusionElastic fibre deterioration worsened after 40 years of age, and this effect correlated with reduced skin recovery and increased wrinkles. In younger individuals, inflammatory markers affected elastic fibres. These findings can guide anti‐ageing strategies that focus on elastic fibre preservation and inflammation control.","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-09-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142223078","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Correction to “Chondroitin/dermatan sulphate proteoglycan, desmosealin, showing affinity to desmosomes”","authors":"","doi":"10.1111/ics.13026","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13026","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Laperdrix C, Duhieu S, Haftek M. Chondroitin/dermatan sulphate proteoglycan, desmosealin, showing affinity to desmosomes. <i>Int J Cosmet Sci</i>. 2024;46:494–505.</p><p>In the published article, the English abstract was incorrect. It should have been:</p><p><b>Objective:</b> Desmosomes are the most prominent interkeratinocyte junctions. The correct barrier function of stratified epithelia such as epidermis depends on their expression. During epidermal differentiation, the molecular composition of desmosomes evolves and so do their physical and chemical properties. Desquamation of corneocytes at the surface of the <i>stratum corneum</i> depends on an orderly degradation of desmosomes by endogenous enzymes. This process may be regulated by glycosylated molecules. We focused on the detection and characterization of potentially implicated players bearing ‘sugar’ characteristics.</p><p><b>Methods:</b> Using an original monoclonal antibody and biochemical methods, we partially characterized a proteoglycan of the exclusively chondroitin/dermatan sulphate type, secreted into the interkeratinocyte spaces, that is incorporated into the extracellular parts of desmosomes in quantities proportional to the degree of cell differentiation, as visualized with immuno-electron microscopy.</p><p><b>Results:</b> This antigen, that we named desmosealin, displays biochemical and immunocytochemical characteristics that clearly differentiate it from known desmosomal elements. Unlike so far described epidermal proteoglycans, which belong to the heparan sulphate family, desmosealin displays chondroitin/dermatan sulphate glycosaminoglycan chains. It can be detected within the extracellular ‘cores’ of desmosomes in the upper viable epidermal layers and in corneodesmosomes from the lowermost part of the <i>stratum corneum</i>.</p><p><b>Conclusion:</b> Extensive integration of proteoglycans into the extracellular parts of desmosomes at the late stages of keratinocyte maturation is likely of functional importance. Given its biochemical profile, its pattern of expression in the epidermis and its desmosomal localization, desmosealin may emerge as a key element in the regulation of desmosome processing, epidermal cohesion and formation of a functional epidermal barrier.</p><p>The online version has been corrected. We apologize for this error.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13026","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142223080","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The prebiotic effects of fructooligosaccharides enhance the growth characteristics of Staphylococcus epidermidis and enhance the inhibition of Staphylococcus aureus biofilm formation.","authors":"Li Shao, Tao Li, Suzhen Yang, Laiji Ma, Banruo Cai, Qingwen Jia, Hong Jiang, Tianming Bai, Yan Li","doi":"10.1111/ics.13020","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13020","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Oligosaccharides have been shown to enhance the production of short chain fatty acids (SCFAs) by gut probiotics and regulate gut microbiota, to improve intestinal health. Recent research indicates that oligosaccharides may also positively impact skin microbiota by selectively promoting the growth of skin commensal bacteria and inhibiting pathogenic bacteria. However, the specific metabolic and regulatory mechanisms of skin commensal bacteria in response to oligosaccharides remain unclear. This study aims to explore the influence of four oligosaccharides on the growth and metabolism of Staphylococcus epidermidis and further identify skin prebiotics that can enhance its probiotic effects on the skin.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Fructooligosaccharides (FOS), isomaltooligosaccharide (IMO), galactooligosaccharides (GOS) and inulin were compared in terms of their impact on cell proliferation, SCFAs production of S. epidermidis CCSM0287 and the biofilm inhibition effect of their fermentation supernatants on Staphylococcus aureus CCSM0424. Furthermore, the effect of FOS on S. epidermidis CCSM0287 was analysed by the transcriptome analysis.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>All four oligosaccharides effectively promoted the growth of S. epidermidis CCSM0287 cells, increased the production of SCFAs, with FOS demonstrating the most significant effect. Analysis of the SCFAs indicated that S. epidermidis CCSM0287 predominantly employs oligosaccharides to produce acetic acid and isovaleric acid, differing from the SCFAs produced by gut microbiota. Among the four oligosaccharides, the addition of 2% FOS fermentation supernatant significantly inhibited S. aureus CCSM0424 biofilm formation. Furthermore, RNA sequencing revealed 162 differentially expressed genes (84 upregulated and 78 downregulated) of S. epidermidis CCSM0287 upon FOS treatment compared with glucose treatment. Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes (KEGG) enrichment analysis highlighted differences in the amino acid synthesis pathway, particularly in terms of arginine biosynthesis.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>FOS promotes cell proliferation, increases the SCFA production of S. epidermidis CCSM0287 and enhance the inhibition of S. aureus biofilm formation, suggesting that FOS serves as a potential prebiotic for strain S. epidermidis CCSM0287.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142153969","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A review of artificial sebum formulations, their compositions, uses and physicochemical characteristics.","authors":"Nicole Rosik, Jon A Preece, Peter J Fryer, Ian McRobbie, Zhenyu J Zhang","doi":"10.1111/ics.13022","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13022","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Sebum is a complex mixture of skin lipids responsible for lubrication, moisture retention and skin protection from external factors such as bacteria and fungi. The physicochemical properties of natural sebum are not well understood and are not easily accessible. Artificial sebum is widely used for sebum-related research such as dermal bioaccessibility, fingerprint production, dermatology, removal and sebum studies. It was found that the composition of artificial sebum affects the bioaccessibility of metals and drugs as well as the growth of some strains of bacteria. Squalene present in sebum was also found to be responsible for creating yellow stains on fabrics, whereas an increased concentration of fatty acids and triglycerides can lead to higher malodour of fabrics. Moreover, sebum and artificial sebum are poorly characterized with only 20 of 81 formulations characterized by certain techniques such as differential scanning calorimetry, nuclear magnetic resonance and thin-layer chromatography. This article reviews the artificial sebum formulations reported in the open literature between 1965 and 2023. We have discussed the compositions, uses and characterization techniques of artificial sebum used in the previous work and compared their properties to those of human sebum. A total of 81 artificial sebum formulations were found across the literature with 17 new formulations identified. The artificial sebum composition varies greatly between publications and there is no consistent formulation. There is a wide range of chemicals that are used as the main components of artificial sebum. We have highlighted the effect of chemical composition and individual compounds on the overall properties of the artificial sebum reported, and recommend that there is a great potential for creating personalized cosmetics and home care products once the characteristics of sebum are better understood.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142153967","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}