International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) cake fermentation: A new, sustainable technology for advanced skin and scalp care ingredients.","authors":"James V Gruber, Amber Schwartz, Nicole Terpak, Robert Holtz, Ana Lucia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Mayara Miranda Ferreira, Viviane Cristina Albarici, Juliana Rodrigues Pinto","doi":"10.1111/ics.70138","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70138","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Simmondsia chinensis is a well-known commercially popular plant from which jojoba oil is extracted. Jojoba cake is a sustainably produced, intractable by-product of the jojoba seed oil extraction currently used principally as a fertilizer or burned as fuel. Fermentation work conducted with various microorganisms, including Lactobacillus plantarum, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Streptococcus thermophilus, sustainably grown on aqueous jojoba cake fermented the cake, liberating jojoba-based amino acids, peptides and proteins. The ferments have been examined chemically and via in vitro cell and tissue studies to develop new skin and scalp care targeted ingredients.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The jojoba cake contained nutrients (proteins, sugars and lipids) that self-sustain aqueous bacterial fermentation. The ferments were examined on 3D tissue models in vitro via human genomic microarrays. A ferment produced by Lactobacillus plantarum was further tested in vitro using ELISA protein assays on skin cell cultures. A 56-day clinical study on 46 individuals examined the influence of 1.0% of the Lactobacillus ferment on collagen expression using Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (DRS).</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Gene responses were measured on 244+ genes known to have skin functions. It was found that the Lactobacillus ferment showed the greatest upregulation of skin-associated genes, and three highly upregulated proteins were examined more closely in vitro using ELISA protein assays: collagen-1A1, protocadherin-18 and opioid growth factor receptor. Each protein was upregulated in a dose-dependent fashion. The collagen analysis by DRS demonstrated a statistically significant increase in collagen fluorescence on Day 28 and Day 56 compared to baseline and placebo cream. Further mapping of the collagen fluorescence was done on the individuals using the active formulation at Days 0, 28 and 56.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Jojoba cake presents a new source of sustainably grown biomass, but the cake is not suitable for topical applications. Fermentation produces components more suitable for topical care. In vitro studies demonstrated upregulation of three skin proteins associated with healing skin. Further studies also employed a newly emerging spectroscopic technique to measure collagen fluorescence in the skin in vivo, the results supporting in vitro work indicating the ferment made with Lactobacillus was able to stimulate collagen synthesis in the skin.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-09-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148891658","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Surface tension-induced mechanotransduction in keratinocytes influences fibroblast activity and dermal matrix composition.","authors":"Julien Chlasta, Gaël Runel, Manon Boussard, Tiphaine Pele-Joly, Karl Pays, Carine Nizard, Valérie Alard, Cécilia Brun","doi":"10.1111/ics.70141","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70141","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Human skin is a highly dynamic organ capable of sensing and responding to mechanical stimuli through tightly regulated communication between the epidermis and dermis. Daily mechanical forces-such as stretching and compression-modulate skin structure and function via mechanotransduction pathways. Central to this process are the mechanosensitive Piezo channels, which convert mechanical tension into electrochemical signals. While the role of Piezo channels in epidermal keratinocytes has been established, it remains unclear whether mechanical tension at the skin's surface can influence deeper dermal responses.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>In this study, we examined whether Piezo-mediated mechanotransduction in keratinocytes affects fibroblast activity and extracellular matrix (ECM) remodelling in the dermis. We applied controlled mechanical tension to the skin surface by the application of cosmetic products on the stratum corneum and measured key features of fibroblast activity and dermal matrix composition.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>We showed that generating surface tension-induced mechanotransduction in keratinocytes is consistent with the activation of Piezo channels and molecular changes in markers from distinct compartments, including the epidermal protein E-cadherin and dermal ECM proteins such as fibronectin and collagen III. These alterations suggest activation of downstream signalling pathways that may influence dermal fibroblasts, leading to remodelling of key ECM proteins including fibronectin and collagen III, while elastin levels remained unchanged.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Our findings support the hypothesis that mechanical cues at the epidermal level, sensed via Piezo channels, may participate in interlayer communication and be associated with ECM remodelling in the dermis, supporting the hypothesis of a potential epidermis-to-dermis mechanotransduction axis in human skin.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148873906","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Mechanistic understanding and peptide ingredient screening for type III collagen via biological knowledge graph and molecular docking.","authors":"Shanshan Zang, Zhiqiang Chen, Jie Qiu, Yao Gu, Nan Li, Liang Zhang, Wanze Wang, Xinxin Chen, Yuan Ma, Amiao Pan, Wei Lan, Lun Yu, Meijie Wang, Shaohua Wang","doi":"10.1111/ics.70140","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70140","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Type III collagen plays a key role in maintaining skin elasticity and dermal resilience, yet its decline is associated with visible signs of skin ageing. This study aimed to establish a data-driven approach to identify cosmetic peptides with potential to enhance type III collagen through multi-target regulation.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>A combined strategy integrating natural language processing (NLP) and knowledge graph (KG) analysis was applied to systematically identify targets associated with type III collagen regulation. Peptides listed in the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC) were screened based on structure-based molecular docking with multiple targets. Candidate peptides were selected for experimental evaluation using human dermal fibroblasts and ex vivo skin models.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>By integrating large-scale literature mining with NLP and KG-based gene interaction analysis, we constructed a comprehensive network of genes involved in type III collagen regulation, covering processes such as collagen synthesis, degradation and extracellular matrix (ECM) organization. Based on this network, candidate peptides with predicted multi-target interactions were prioritized through structure-based screening. In vitro, four selected peptides-palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-10-significantly increased type III collagen levels following UV exposure, without detectable cytotoxicity. The combination of these peptides exhibited a greater effect than individual components. In ex vivo skin tissues, the peptide combination further enhanced the levels of type I, III and IV collagens, indicating a broader modulatory effect on dermal ECM components.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>This study provides a practical framework for the identification of cosmetic peptides targeting collagen regulation. The findings support a multi-target approach and suggest that peptide combinations may enhance collagen-related outcomes relevant to skin ageing applications.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148873889","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"New insights from data analysis of 12 global clinical studies on hair shedding.","authors":"Yingjie Li, Shengnan Lin, Sarah Paterson, Tony Dadd, Jiayin Gu, Ranjit K Bhogal, Zulfa Hudaya, Hepsy Y Selliah, Mingming Pu, Jianing N Sun","doi":"10.1111/ics.70136","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70136","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Excessive hair shedding continues to be a major concern for individuals, negatively affecting their wellbeing and confidence. This research analysed 12 clinical studies involving 805 participants (323 males and 482 females) across eight countries (China, Indonesia, UK, India, Brazil, Thailand, Turkey and US) with concerns about hair loss. Two recent studies in China and a study in Indonesia were investigated in depth, focusing on hair shedding and breakage conditions, and age-related differences in hair shedding. The two China studies were further investigated in hair shedding during different scalp or hair care procedures (washing, drying, and combing after drying). Additionally, nine historical clinical studies from various regions were further reviewed for hair shedding and breakage conditions to provide a global view on this topic. Across the three recent Asian studies, whilst total hair fall comprised both shed hairs from the root (exogen hairs with a typical club end) and broken hairs, shed hairs from the root represented the predominant proportion, accounting for an average of 96.5% of total hair fall in Chinese female participants, 98.8% in Chinese male participants, and 72.2% in Indonesian female participants. Analysis of the nine historical studies supported the insight that shed hairs from the root are more than broken hairs. Regardless of region or gender, more shed hairs from the root were collected from scalp than broken hairs, with shed hair proportions ranging from 67.1% to 97.7%. Data mining of the two recent Chinese studies revealed that most hair shedding occurred during the washing stage (49.6% in females and 74.1% in males), followed by drying and combing after drying. Further analysis of the 2 recent Chinese studies and the recent Indonesian study also explored the differences in hair shedding with age. Spearman correlation analysis showed an increasing trend of hair shedding with age in female participants. Subgroup analysis of younger (18-42 years) and older participants (>42 years) using the Mann-Whitney U test also indicated increased hair shedding with age in females.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148828100","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Enhancing the sensitivity of emulsion stability monitoring: A study based on precursor signals from multiple light scattering analysis.","authors":"Chenxin Zhou, Yubo Li, Wenchan Pan, Kuan Ou, Yilei Li, Wanping Zhang, Xiaofeng Qiu","doi":"10.1111/ics.70129","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70129","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>To accurately identify early destabilization signals in emulsions, this study employed multiple light scattering (MLS) technology combined with microscopic observation, particle size analysis and long-term macroscopic stability tests to perform a multi-scale evaluation on a series of emulsions. By comparing the migration of the transmission light inflection point, the average rate of change of backscattered light intensity (BS_MRC) and the uniformity index (U) of samples under different temperatures, the intrinsic correlation between MLS signals and emulsion stability was systematically analysed. The results indicated that three typical destabilization phenomena can be predicted based on the characteristics of the inflection point changes. Further dynamic tracking of BS_MRC and U revealed that for stable samples, both BS_MRC and U remained at low levels. During destabilization at high temperature (45°C), a significant increase in BS_MRC served as a precursor indicator of phase separation. During destabilization at low temperature (-16°C), the U value markedly increased while BS_MRC changed gradually, reflecting mechanical damage induced by freezing. In conclusion, multiple light scattering technology can capture destabilization signals in emulsions in advance, with sensitivity superior to traditional visual observation, thereby providing an efficient and reliable technical approach for formulation screening and long-term stability prediction of emulsions.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148706487","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Dual asymmetric centrifugation to prepare cosmetic emulsions and creams: Physico-chemical and energy considerations.","authors":"A Verger, M Azzoug, E Munnier","doi":"10.1111/ics.70130","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70130","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>This study evaluates room-temperature dual asymmetric centrifugation (DAC) as an R&D scale alternative mixing technology for cosmetic oil-in-water emulsions and structured creams (200 g), compared with high-shear rotor-stator and thermo-mechanical processes, with a focus on product properties and energy requirements.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Formulations were characterized by visual assessment, conductivity and pH monitoring over 30 days. Physical stability was analysed by multiple light scattering. Flow and oscillatory measurements were performed, complemented by texture analysis. Specific energy consumption was evaluated at both scales.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>All systems exhibited homogeneous oil-in-water structures with no significant differences in pH evolution or physical stability. Shear-thinning behaviour was observed for all formulations, while creams showed dominant elastic behaviour (G' > G″), indicating structured networks independent of the mixing process. Texture properties were similar across technologies. Energy analysis revealed a scale effect: rotor-stator was more efficient for 30 g samples, while DAC became competitive at 200 g due to the absence of heating. Final product properties remained comparable across processes.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>DAC is a robust and energy-efficient alternative for cosmetic emulsions and creams, enabling comparable product properties while offering potential energy savings at larger scales, supporting more sustainable processing strategies.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148706490","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Trans-resveratrol alleviates inflammation and improves skin barrier function via aryl hydrocarbon receptor pathway in human reconstructed epidermis.","authors":"Irini M Dijkhoff, Sandeep Keshavan, Regina G Daré, Alke Petri-Fink, Marc Eeman, Agnès Tessier, Barbara Rothen-Rutishauser","doi":"10.1111/ics.70134","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70134","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>The aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) is a regulator of epidermal homeostasis and a promising target for cosmetic and dermatological ingredients aimed at improving skin barrier function and reducing inflammation. This study investigated the potential of the natural polyphenol trans-resveratrol (RSV), a compound of cosmetic interest, to modulate downstream AHR signalling and restore epidermal integrity in a model of skin compromised by a pro-inflammatory environment.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>A reconstructed human epidermis (RhE) was exposed to a cytokine cocktail (IL-4, IL-13, TNF-α) to induce a phenotype mimicking some aspects of atopic eczema, namely inflammation, oxidative stress and barrier disruption, features also prevalent in sensitive and reactive skin conditions. The effects of RSV were evaluated by assessing inflammatory mediators, oxidative stress-related markers, aryl hydrocarbon receptor signalling and epidermal barrier-associated proteins using molecular, biochemical and histological analyses.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Cytokine exposure induced a pronounced inflammatory response, activation of aryl hydrocarbon receptor signalling, oxidative stress-related gene expression and dysregulation of barrier-related markers. Treatment with RSV attenuated the inflamed phenotype by reducing IL1A mRNA expression and IL-1α secretion, attenuating oxidative stress-associated AHR target gene responses through downregulation of CYP1A1 and CYP1B1, while maintaining AHR and HMOX1 expression and modulating barrier-associated gene expression, particularly by downregulating CASP14 and upregulating the tight junction protein occludin (OCLN).</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>These findings provide mechanistic evidence in a human epidermis model that RSV can counteract inflammation, mitigate oxidative stress and support epidermal barrier homeostasis, actions mediated, at least in part, through modulation of AHR downstream signalling. This supports the potential of resveratrol as a multifunctional active ingredient in cosmetic and dermatological formulations designed to strengthen the skin barrier and calm sensitive or compromised skin.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148701016","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Pretreatment of keratinocytes with Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF) promotes stress resiliency in an in vitro oxidative stress model.","authors":"Lisa C Green, Tim Reichling, Holly A Rovito, Jodie Reed, Xingtao Wei, John M Snowball, Tom Cambron, Tomohiro Hakozaki","doi":"10.1111/ics.70135","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70135","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Extrinsic, lifestyle stressors can increase oxidative stress and induce premature aging characteristics of the skin. We studied the effects of oxidative stress at the biomolecular level to gain insights into effective stress-resiliency strategies for skincare. We also investigated if Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF) pretreatment could enhance stress resiliency in keratinocytes in vitro.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>In vitro single cell Raman spectroscopy was performed to identify an oxidative stress phenotype in keratinocytes exposed to hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) stress. The gene expression and functional consequences of acute stress were also determined by performing RNA sequencing, mitochondrial metabolism assays, and proliferation assays 24 h after H₂O₂ stress exposure. All experiments were performed with and without GFF pretreatment.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Raman spectra revealed a novel stress phenotype which includes the formation of cysteic acid with increasing doses of H₂O₂, likely from the breaking of disulfide bonds in keratins. GFF pretreatment significantly mitigated this stress phenotype; GFF-pretreated cells were 11.9 times more likely to exhibit healthy spectra compared to control cells when exposed to high stress. RNA sequencing conducted 24 h after H₂O₂ exposure also demonstrated a stress-related phenotype characterized by enhanced regulation of apoptosis and reduced keratinocyte differentiation. Conversely, GFF pretreatment increased multiple pathways of skin development at baseline and prevented the stress-induced dysregulation of gene expression. Keratinocytes pretreated with GFF also had increased stress resiliency in mitochondrial stress and wound healing assays.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Our data establishes that oxidative stress induces a distinctive biomolecular stress phenotype in keratinocytes. GFF pretreatment enhances the resilience of keratinocytes, as demonstrated by increased expression across various gene pathways related to keratinocyte differentiation, cell-cell junctions, and lipid metabolism. Following oxidative stress, GFF-pretreated cells exhibited substantial protection from the stress-induced biomolecular alterations identified in Raman spectra. Furthermore, GFF pretreatment effectively mitigated the downstream consequences of stress, supporting maintenance of keratinocyte gene-expression programs, mitochondrial activity, and wound-closure capacity after oxidative stress.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148701092","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Efficacy and safety of a novel anhydrous 0.1% retinal and 10% azelaic acid concentrate for blemish-prone skin: An eight-week randomized prospective split-face, vehicle-controlled study.","authors":"Chloé Gaudicheau, Maria Ahlström, Johanna Maria Gillbro, Ulf Åkerström","doi":"10.1111/ics.70131","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70131","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Background: </strong>Blemish-prone skin is driven by follicular hyperkeratinization, excessive sebum production, microbial dysbiosis and inflammation, often accompanied by post-inflammatory erythema and hyperpigmentation. Retinal and azelaic acid are established topical actives with complementary mechanisms of action, yet no clinical study has evaluated their combination in a single formulation.</p><p><strong>Objective: </strong>To evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of a minimalist anhydrous concentrate combining retinal (0.1%) and azelaic acid (10%) in improving objective and self-perceived features of blemish-prone skin over 8 weeks.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>In a prospective randomized, vehicle-controlled split-face study, participants applied the active concentrate to one side of the face and a vehicle concentrate to the contralateral side, mixed with a moisturizer immediately before application. Assessments were performed at baseline and week 8 using standardized photography, Antera 3D imaging and consumer questionnaires. Statistical comparisons were performed within subjects and between treatment conditions.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Twenty-three participants completed the study (age 16-49 years; mean 28 years; Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV). After 8 weeks, the active formulation demonstrated statistically significant improvements versus baseline and vehicle. Skin texture improved by 10.9% versus baseline (p < 0.0001) and 5.6% versus vehicle (p = 0.0016). Skin volume (surface irregularities/pits) decreased by 24.8% versus baseline (p < 0.0001) and 12.7% versus vehicle (p = 0.0053). Overall redness was reduced by 13.2% versus baseline (p = 0.0009) and 18.1% versus vehicle (p = 0.011), while maximum redness intensity decreased by 8.8% versus baseline (p < 0.0001) and 5.2% versus vehicle (p = 0.029). The pore parameter showed a 22.3% improvement versus vehicle (p = 0.015) and 15.9% versus baseline (p = 0.051). Self-assessments indicated improvements in overall skin condition (87%), pimple size/severity (78%), number of pimples (74%), calmer skin feel (95%) and reduced oiliness (82%). Visible improvements within 4 weeks were reported by 65% of participants. Adverse events were few, mild and transient.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>An anhydrous six-ingredient concentrate combining retinal 0.1% and azelaic acid 10% significantly improved texture, surface irregularities, redness and pore appearance in acne-prone skin over 8 weeks with good tolerability. The formulation provides a stability-optimized approach for combining two evidence-based actives in a minimalist system.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148701010","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Differentiating solar lentigines from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation with hyperspectral imaging: A pilot study","authors":"Victor Egana,&nbsp;Carl Blaksley,&nbsp;Ayako Itaya,&nbsp;Mai Edagawa,&nbsp;Alexandre Nicolas","doi":"10.1111/ics.70067","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70067","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Solar lentigines and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) are common pigmentation disorders, and they are usually differentiated by a trained dermatologist. Accurate identification of the spot type is essential for providing patients with the most appropriate skin treatment. The aim of this study was to evaluate the capacity of hyperspectral imaging (HSI) in characterizing and discriminating solar lentigines from PIH, that is, to identify the colorimetric features and chromophore concentrations associated with each pigmentation disorder.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Acquisition of HSI was performed using a liquid-crystal tuneable filter spectral scanning spectrometer. The recruited panel consisted of female Japanese subjects (<i>n</i> = 11) with one solar lentigo on both the left and right cheeks. Five of these subjects also had one PIH spot on both the left and right cheeks.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Significant differences were found in the mean difference relative to the surrounding skin between PIH spots and solar lentigines for the following features (all <i>p</i> &lt; 0.05): Δ<i>Oxyhaemoglobin</i> (PIH spots (2.3 ± 1.1) × 10⁻² g·cm·L⁻¹ vs. solar lentigines (−0.1 ± 0.6) × 10⁻² g·cm·L⁻¹), Δ<i>Deoxyhaemoglobin</i> (PIH spots (6.3 ± 2.6) × 10⁻² g·cm·L⁻¹ vs. solar lentigines (0.9 ± 1.7) × 10⁻² g·cm·L⁻¹), Δ<i>a</i>* values (PIH spots 5.3 ± 2.0 vs. solar lentigines 1.6 ± 1.3) and Δ<i>b</i>* values (PIH spots −1.2 ± 0.7 vs. solar lentigines −0.1 ± 0.4). No significant difference was observed in Δ<i>L</i>* values and Δ<i>Melanin</i> content between the two hyperpigmentation types (all <i>p</i> &gt; 0.05).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Compared with solar lentigines, PIH spots displayed higher haemoglobin content and Δ<i>a</i>* values and lower Δ<i>b</i>* values. To strengthen these preliminary findings, further clinical studies need to be conducted on a larger cohort, aiming at confirming the benefit of HSI in accurately differentiating these two skin pigmentation disorders to support clinical assessment.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 4","pages":"738-746"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70067","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145951860","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}