International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Sunscreen sensory attribute prediction via textural, rheological and tribological tests.","authors":"Günel Nabiyeva, Baran Teoman, Andrei Potanin, Gennady Y Gor","doi":"10.1111/ics.70021","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70021","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>This study aims to find the quick ways to predict sensorial attributes of sunscreens using instrumental measurements. We specifically focus on the attributes most relevant to consumer 'liking' and the easiest measurements to implement in industrial labs for product development. Of the latter, we consider three types of measurements: emulative 'textural' tests typically performed with a texture analyser as well as rheological and tribological measurements. Textural tests are generally preferred but may be paralleled by rheological measurements provided they are implementable on simple viscometers used in industry (albeit with additional data processing). We found that both textural and simple rheological/viscometrical tests work well for predicting sensorial attributes about flow before (thickness) and during (spreadability) application of the products. Tribology provides useful additional information for the latter but is primarily useful for after-feel or residue attributes (absorption and skin stickiness). These findings show that simple lab tests relying on these techniques can predict human sensory attributes, thus efficiently guide product developers while reducing the need for costly and time-consuming panel studies.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144992207","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Test design and results of a method performance characterization study for SPF and UVA-PF testing","authors":"Bertrand Colson,&nbsp;Jürgen Vollhardt,&nbsp;Curtis Cole,&nbsp;Ludger Kolbe,&nbsp;Paul Matts,&nbsp;Benoit Muller,&nbsp;Luciano Nogueira,&nbsp;Sergio Oliveira,&nbsp;Marc Pissavini,&nbsp;Florence Pouradier,&nbsp;Gerald Renner,&nbsp;Mathias Rohr,&nbsp;Eduardo Ruvolo,&nbsp;Caroline Tricaud,&nbsp;ALT-SPF Consortium,&nbsp;Steffen Uhlig","doi":"10.1111/ics.70019","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70019","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This paper presents the experimental design, the statistical model, performance criteria and results of a method performance study conducted in order to characterize the performance of alternative methods for SPF and UVA-PF testing. The performance of alternative methods is characterized against the performance of the ISO 24444 and ISO 24443 methods.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A factorial experimental design was implemented. For a given method, such a design allows good statistical reliability of precision estimates with as few as four participating laboratories. To cover the wide range of sunscreen products on the market, 32 sunscreens were tested. These 32 products were classified into eight product groups. The product groups differ in terms of SPF level, application viscosity and type of UV filters and matrix. In co-operation with a WG7 ISO ad hoc group performance criteria for the alternative methods were developed for reproducibility precision, between-laboratory variation, bias and the variation of bias across products and across product groups.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> \u0000 Results\u0000 </h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Performance characteristics for the reference method along with reproducibility and repeatability limits are provided. The results for the participating alternative methods will be presented in separate articles, following this paper.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The precision of ISO 24444 and ISO 24443 was characterized for each of the eight product groups. The main sources of variation were identified for each of the two reference methods. Reproducibility and repeatability limits were derived and are provided.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"2-24"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70019","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923566","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Are there alternatives to the traditional in-vivo SPF test (ISO 24444)? Comparison and statistical analysis of 5 proposed methods","authors":"Marc Pissavini,&nbsp;John Chave,&nbsp;Majella Lane","doi":"10.1111/ics.70026","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70026","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Sun protection products play a critical role in defending consumers' skin against the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation during sun overexposure. Regular use of these products is essential, but it is equally important to ensure that the sun protection factor (SPF) communicated to consumers is accurate and allows consistent comparison between products. This is particularly vital since the vast majority of consumers base their purchasing decisions on the SPF value displayed on the label.</p><p>The current international standard for SPF testing, ISO 24444:2019, relies on testing conducted with human volunteers. Until 2024, this was the sole accepted method for SPF evaluation. However, this approach is invasive, complex, time-consuming, costly, and – as a biological test – has a high variability. Over many years, the cosmetics industry has been working to develop suitable alternative methods that give comparable results to ISO 24444:2019.</p><p>Validating such new methods is done through ring tests that benchmark the results of the new test methods against the gold standard. This requires the availability of robust in vivo reference SPF data on a large number of sun protection products – a significant experimental undertaking that cannot be repeated for each proposed method.</p><p>Recognizing this need, a consortium of sunscreen testing users and developers launched the ALT-SPF initiative in 2018 to identify, characterize, and evaluate alternative sunscreen testing methods against the ISO 24444:2019 gold standard. It included SPF testing methods that were expected to be less invasive, more precise, and more cost-effective. As part of this effort, ALT-SPF conducted an extensive study using 32 sunscreen samples. These were tested with the current ISO 24444:2019 standard and five alternative methods, including in vitro, in silico, and non-invasive in vivo testing approaches.</p><p>Each alternative method was benchmarked against the gold standard, with results analysed through statistically robust models. This rigorous approach not only evaluated the alternative methods but also laid the foundation for ISO's landmark publication in December 2024 of two alternative SPF testing methods – marking the first time non-in vivo approaches have been formally recognized as viable options to ISO 24444.</p><p>The editors, Professor Majella Lane and Professor Marc Pissavini, are honoured to welcome Mr. John Chave, Director General of Cosmetics Europe, as the guest editor of this special edition of the <i>International Journal of Cosmetic Science</i>. His participation underscores the importance of collaborative efforts and expertise in advancing SPF testing methodologies.</p><p>This edition features seven groundbreaking publications authored by leading experts. These papers detail the protocols, findings, and conclusions of the ALT-SPF initiative. Their contributions have been instrumental in advancing the science of SPF testing and shaping a future where in","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70026","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923564","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Characterization of LED-based hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy method for determination of SPF and UVA-PF in blinded multi-centre study (ALT-SPF)","authors":"Carina Reble,&nbsp;Michael Bayer,&nbsp;Bertrand Colson,&nbsp;Tanja Emmler,&nbsp;Jean-Claude Hubaud,&nbsp;Matthias Seise,&nbsp;Eva Perroux-David,&nbsp;Georg Wiora,&nbsp;Daniela F. Zamudio Diaz,&nbsp;ALT-SPF Consortium,&nbsp;Martina C. Meinke,&nbsp;Stephan Bielfeldt","doi":"10.1111/ics.70007","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70007","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The consortium ALT-SPF performed an international round robin test to characterize non-invasive methods as alternatives to the erythema-based testing of sun protection factor (SPF) according to ISO 24444:2019.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS) based on a multi-lambda LED light source uses in vivo reflectance spectra on skin to determine sunscreens in vivo absorbance spectra, which are fused with respective in vitro absorbance spectra measured as thin films transmission as described in ISO 24443:2019. As a part of the ALT-SPF consortium initiative, a blinded study on 64 samples was performed in four European laboratories. After further improvements of the method, a blinded re-evaluation based on 16 samples was performed. Five statistical acceptance criteria for new methods were assessed by an independent statistical institute to compare the obtained results to the reference methods for SPF and UVA-PF.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The initial ALT-SPF study 1 showed that the bias criterion was acceptable, while the reproducibility and interlaboratory variability needed further improvement. The re-evaluation study 2 showed that the reproducibility and interlaboratory variability could be considerably improved. Using only <i>n</i> = 10 volunteers and a bias correction based on the initial ALT-SPF study 1 data, the SPF results of the re-evaluation study 2 were close to the acceptance criteria of the ALT-SPF study with criterion 1 (reproducibility) and only 11% over the limit defined by the performance of the gold standard. The UVA-PF results were within the acceptance limits for the acceptance criteria, except criterion 3 being in the ‘almost met’ range. The re-evaluation study indicates that the method has a comparable precision to the gold standard methods ISO 24444 and ISO 24443.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study showed that the LED-HDRS method is capable of providing reasonable non-invasive SPF and UVA-PF results and that the performance shows close alignment to the reference method. Thus, it can be proposed as an alternative method to the current standards ISO 24444 and ISO 24443.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"96-114"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70007","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923565","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Performance of hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS-ISO 23698) methodology for assessment of sunscreen protection in the ALT-SPF Consortium validation study","authors":"Eduardo Ruvolo,&nbsp;Curtis Cole,&nbsp;Mathias Rohr,&nbsp;Jay Silverman,&nbsp;Omid Yousefian,&nbsp;Jan Batzer,&nbsp;Nele Lange,&nbsp;Rita Touti,&nbsp;Florence Pouradier,&nbsp;Luciano Nogueira,&nbsp;Bertrand Colson","doi":"10.1111/ics.13089","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13089","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Alternative methods to the traditional in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) test are desirable for many reasons. Hybrid DRS (HDRS) (combining in vitro transmission spectroscopy with in vivo DRS spectroscopy) was used in an extensive ring study to characterize its ability to estimate topical sunscreen protection and compared with the currently recognized ‘gold standard’ human in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF-ISO24444), Ultraviolet-A Protection Factor (UVA-PF), and Critical Wavelength (CW) (ISO 24443) Reference Methods sponsored by the Alternative SPF Consortium.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS) of skin provides a rapid, convenient non-invasive tool to evaluate skin properties as well as the optical properties of materials applied to the skin, such as sunscreens. DRS methodology combines in vivo measurement of sunscreen absorbance on skin in the Ultraviolet A (UVA) region with full spectrum in vitro spectrophotometric absorbance scans to provide a full spectrum measurement of the protection of sunscreen on skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Results from testing with both monochromatic and polychromatic HDRS devices provided strong correlation of SPF, UVA-PF and Critical Wavelength results with their corresponding ‘gold standard’ counterpart methods in Study 1 for bias (or ‘accuracy’), however with more variability within certain product types. Further training of personnel conducting the HDRS studies was conducted prior to a second follow-up ring study using many of the same blinded samples from Study 1 in addition to Reference Standard sunscreens.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The results showed marked improvement in the variability to a level equivalent to the reference methods while maintaining accuracy of the estimates of the protection values. Virtually all estimates were within the Prediction Intervals (PI) of the reference methods for the second study. HDRS offers the ability to accurately assess sunscreen performance for SPF, UVA-PF as well as CW without invasive damage to test subjects and offers in the future the opportunity to assess water resistance performance.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"53-77"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13089","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923568","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The ALT-SPF ring study – in vitro determination of the SPF & UVA-PF by the fused method","authors":"S. Acker,&nbsp;A. Büchse,&nbsp;L. Nogueira,&nbsp;J. Zur Lage,&nbsp;E. Perroux-David,&nbsp;F. Drulhon,&nbsp;J. Moraes,&nbsp;S. Peters,&nbsp;A. Janssen,&nbsp;N. M. Komjani,&nbsp;B. Colson,&nbsp;B. Herzog","doi":"10.1111/ics.70015","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70015","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In the framework of the Alt-SPF consortium, a large ring study was conducted to evaluate different alternative methods for SPF determination. This paper reports and discusses the results of a new in vitro approach, the Fused Method. The study aimed to determine whether the Fused Method would provide similar SPF results to those obtained using ISO 24444 and whether UVA-PF would be comparable to ISO 24443.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The Fused Method is based on assessing UV transmittance through a film of sunscreen applied to PMMA plates, before and after 1MED irradiation through the film. An individual calibration curve is measured by each operator using standard sunscreens to correct for individual/equipment error throughout the process. This calibration is formulation-dependent: there is one calibration for emulsion, one for single-phase formulations, and one for mineral UV filters.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Optimization of the calibration step to an asymptotic regression model improved inter-laboratory reproducibility and showed lower method bias compared to ISO 24444. Most PGs met the full statistical validation criterion for SPF results. The results of PG1 (low viscosity emulsion SPF30), PG2 (medium viscosity emulsion SPF6) and PG4 (medium viscosity emulsion SPF30) indicate a product and product group-specific method bias. This observation was confirmed for PG1 in the follow-up study. The same conclusion could be drawn for the evaluation of UVA-PF versus ISO 24443, as this parameter is directly linked to the SPF results.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The use of the Fused Method to determine the SPF of sunscreen formulations meets the statistical criteria for most PGs. However, intra-laboratory reproducibility needs to be improved for low SPF values and low viscosity emulsions. Nevertheless, this fast, simple, and cost-effective method remains a good alternative for SPF &amp; UVA-PF screening in the development of sunscreen formulations. It is a pragmatic approach to manage the various known biases (applicator/device) of in vitro transmittance SPF measurement. No significant change to ISO 24443 is required, and the method allows in vitro SPF &amp; UVA-PF to be determined in the same setup.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"115-132"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70015","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923563","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Performance assessment of the Double Plate method (ISO23675) in ALT-SPF Consortium: A highly reproducible and accurate in vitro method to determine SPF","authors":"Florence Pouradier,&nbsp;Sebastien Miksa,&nbsp;Jan Batzer,&nbsp;Modibo Mangassi,&nbsp;Anna Ludwikowska,&nbsp;Hicham Nocairi,&nbsp;Bertrand Colson,&nbsp;Gerald Renner,&nbsp;Paul J. Matts,&nbsp;Marc Pissavini","doi":"10.1111/ics.13088","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13088","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To perform a comprehensive statistical characterization of the Double Plate method (ISO 23675) as a potential in vitro alternative to the in vivo reference method (ISO 24444:2019) for determining the sun protection factor (SPF).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Five qualified laboratories were involved in testing the Double Plate method, as part of a large-scale ring test conducted by the International Consortium ‘ALT-SPF’. About 32 sunscreen products, reflecting diverse global formulations, were tested using both the in vivo reference method and the Double Plate method. This method employs spectrophotometric measurements of sunscreen applied to UV-transparent plates with standardized robotic application to minimize the variability. A mathematical adjustment was introduced to address the initial bias compared to the reference method and further assessed in a follow-up ring test with 12 products, including ISO standards.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The Double Plate method exhibited very high intra- and inter-laboratory reproducibility throughout the study, consistently meeting the precision criteria set by ISO/TC217/WG7. Following the mathematical adjustment, the accuracy significantly improved, demonstrating a close alignment with the reference method.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The Double Plate method demonstrates excellent reproducibility and, following optimization, high accuracy for the SPF determination. These findings endorse the Double Plate method as a robust and ethical in vitro alternative to the in vivo reference method for SPF testing. This paved the way for its publication as a new ISO standard (ISO 23675), in December 2024, supporting consumer safety and informed product choices.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"37-52"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13088","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923567","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The ALT-SPF ring study—Correlation in silico versus in vivo SPF ISO24444 and in vitro UVA-PF ISO24443","authors":"Gernot Kunze,&nbsp;Myriam Sohn,&nbsp;Jochen Giesinger,&nbsp;Katja Quass,&nbsp;Yvonne Prigl,&nbsp;Caithlyn Schleiger,&nbsp;Alexander Schlifke,&nbsp;Waldemar Ens,&nbsp;Frauke Wilfert,&nbsp;Jürgen Vollhardt,&nbsp;Bertrand Colson,&nbsp;Bernd Herzog","doi":"10.1111/ics.13086","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13086","url":null,"abstract":"<p>This paper presents the results of the Alt-SPF consortium ring test, obtained by the in-silico methodology, and discusses these results in the context of existing standards. To evaluate the effectiveness of the in-silico methodology in correlating with these standards, a comparison was made between the in-silico sun protection factor (SPF) and the UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and the values derived by standard in vivo SPF (ISO24444) and in vitro UVA-PF (ISO24443). The model utilises the same algorithm as in vitro measurements of SPF and UVA-PF, with the measured UV transmission substituted by calculated transmission simulated through an applied sunscreen film. The in-silico approach necessitates quantitative UV absorbance data of all UV-filters, their photodegradation and photointeraction properties, oil/water phase synergies and a model describing the irregular distribution of the film thickness on the skin. The performance factors are calculated using an initial analytical evaluation of the 32 test formulations of the ring test, to ascertain the presence and concentration of individual UV absorbers. The filter concentrations obtained are then processed via computational analysis to calculate the SPF and UV-PF values. It has been demonstrated that, in accordance with defined statistical parameters to characterize the ability of a method to correlate with the in vivo SPF standard, the in-silico methodology is a highly reproducible and accurate tool for SPF prediction. The alignment with the lowest measured in vivo SPF values serves to ensure the safety of the end consumer and is not a weakness of the method. Additionally, it has been demonstrated that the methodology facilitates precise prediction of UVA protection in comparison to the in vitro standard ISO 24443. These calculations can be employed to engineer novel sunscreens, thereby diminishing the necessity for ethically questionable and extensive laboratory measurements. In case still in-vivo measurements are needed, the methodology can deliver the frequently required SPF/UVA-PF values and may also support functions such as those of responsible persons, including safety assessors, in their evaluations.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"78-95"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13086","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923421","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Sustainable cosmetic ingredient alternatives to replace conventional ingredients: Case studies in moisturizers and lipsticks.","authors":"Anna Spaulding, Gabriella Baki","doi":"10.1111/ics.70020","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70020","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Over the last two decades, consumers have been calling for greater transparency for ingredient sourcing and manufacturing practices; therefore, more sustainable alternatives need to be evaluated to meet industry demands. While many organizations give standards for 'clean', 'organic' and 'natural' cosmetic products, sustainable formulations lack standardization and harmonization globally. This study aimed to formulate sustainable lipsticks and moisturizers using resources and standards currently available in the cosmetic industry and compare select sustainable alternatives to a conventional control product.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>After thoroughly screening ingredients for each product type, five different lipsticks and five batches of moisturizers were formulated and tested for quality, performance and stability characteristics.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Pay-off and friction were the most different among the lipsticks, with M4, the lipstick containing sustainable ingredients, having the highest average friction and pay-off at Week 1. As for the moisturizers, spreadability had the largest differences, mostly due to the different emulsifier systems, as expected.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Incorporating sustainable ingredients can be challenging, but having quality products while being more environmentally friendly is possible. These case studies are meant to serve as examples for formulation chemists.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-08-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144873082","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Evaluation of the sensitive skin syndrome and the effect of a dermo-cosmetic treatment in Thai and Polish subjects.","authors":"Helena Polena, Sylwia Czaińska, Benoît Cadars, Ewa Chlebus, Monika Serafin, Waranya Boonchai, Pichanee Chaweekulrat, Silada Kanokrungsee, Marlène Chavagnac-Bonneville, Christelle Graizeau, Michèle Sayag, Elodie Prestat-Marquis","doi":"10.1111/ics.70017","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70017","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Sensitive skin syndrome (SSS) affects individuals from all ethnic groups. However, studies across different populations remain limited, despite recognised differences between populations. Thus, we examined SSS in Thai and Polish subjects, assessing the tolerance and efficacy of a dermo-cosmetic product in both populations.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Thai participants were involved in a 28-day open-label study, while Polish subjects took part in a 56-day double-blind, randomised study comparing the product with a control cream. Clinical and functional signs were evaluated, alongside quality of life (QoL) using the Burden of Sensitive Skin (BoSS) questionnaire.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The product was well tolerated in both groups over time, leading to significant improvements in all clinical and functional signs (p < 0.05 to p < 0.001) and enhancing QoL (p < 0.005 in Thailand; p < 0.001 in Poland). At baseline, Polish subjects exhibited greater redness and higher BoSS scores to questions relating to visual signs (p < 0.001). Conversely, Thai participants reported more pronounced tingling, pain and itching, along with higher BoSS scores relating to sensory symptoms (p < 0.001).</p><p><strong>Conclusions: </strong>The study highlights differences existing in the perception of SSS symptoms between a Thai and Polish population and demonstrates that the dermo-cosmetic cream effectively alleviates SSS symptoms and improves QoL in both ethnic groups.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-08-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144873081","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}