International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Carbonylation of hair proteins: A robust biomarker of molecular and structural oxidative damage in hair fibres.","authors":"Camille Grosjacques, Sabine Babiel, Jing Hodes, Anais Bobier, Andrea Cavagnino, Martin Baraibar","doi":"10.1111/ics.13052","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13052","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>The first objective of this study is to compare two molecular markers, cysteic acid and protein carbonylation, to track the level of chemical oxidation and photochemical (UV) oxidation of human hair. The second objective is to investigate how the protein carbonylation biomarker evolution is associated with physical characteristics of the fibre. The third objective is to understand the damage localization within the hair sub-structure.</p><p><strong>Materials and methods: </strong>For the chemical oxidation study European natural hair 6/0 (medium brown) is treated with non-pigmented commercial hair colour mixture and hair bleaching in increasing chemical oxidation conditions. For the photochemical study two European natural hair colours, 4/0 (dark brown) and 9/0 (extra light blond) are gradually photo irradiated. Molecular changes are investigated through cysteic acid measurement by NIR spectroscopy and protein carbonylation measurement; Biophysical changes by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and tensile strength measurements. Carbonyls are labelled with a specific fluorescent probe and measured in gel electrophoresis and in situ through image analysis and densitometric quantification after protein extraction respectively.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The two molecular markers, cysteic acid and protein carbonylation, increase similarly in both chemical and photochemical oxidation cases and show a good level of association across the oxidation levels. The fibre physical characteristics (DSC, Tensile Strength) decrease while the protein carbonylation and cysteic acid increase. The in situ visualization of the protein carbonylation shows a high impact on the hair cuticle and a gradual increase of photo-oxidation through the cortex, phenomenon which is more prominent for the extra light blonde hair in the case of photochemical oxidation.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>The protein carbonylation biomarker is validated as another key molecular marker to monitor oxidative chemical changes in the hair chemical groups. It complements the cysteic acid, and appears more suitable in the case of photochemical oxidation, where it offers clear advantages over cysteic acid by being more sensitive and accurate, and by allowing in situ distinct damage visualization. Besides cysteic acid, amino acids such as proline, threonine, arginine, lysine, and peptide bonds are targets of oxidation. Under photochemical oxidation, the photoprotective effect of melanin is confirmed.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143457810","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Mastering the formulation of an unstable vitamin C (VC) as anti-aging skin care ingredient. Part I: A new approach.","authors":"Muriel Isoir-Ingrez, Anne Falip, Naima Yousfi, Laurence Arnaud-Sebillotte, Bruno Biatry, Florence Leroy, Pamella H Wang, Jean-Thierry Simonnet","doi":"10.1111/ics.13050","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13050","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>To develop a stabilized 12% pure Vitamin C-based serum at a pH close to that of the skin for use in anti-aging.</p><p><strong>Material and methods: </strong>At acidic pH (<3), under oxidative conditions, the ascorbate anionic form of VC rapidly undergoes transformations leading to a Xylosone by-product, resulting in important chemical losses of VC. Buffering the ascorbate anionic moiety with alkaline agents largely decreases its transformation and the loss of VC. The use of a cationic polymer (Polyquaternium 67, PQ67) enables binding of the ascorbate anion by creating an ionic network, at pH 6 and slows down the slight yellowing of the serum.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>By exposing this complex to a temperature of 45°C for a two-month period, more acceptable degradation was obtained, with less VC chemical loss (approx. 5%-10%). Although a slight yellowish colour developed, it was found non redhibitory through consumer tests. As a result, such combination still leaves an important concentration of pure VC (over 10%) likely able to express its efficacy as anti-aging ingredient. Further refinements of this association were performed to reach adequate organoleptic properties of the formula, in view of a future clinical test, as proof of performance of VC efficacy at pH 6.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>The stabilized formulation of VC at a pH close to that of the skin, apt at being tested in vivo, offers new possibilities for skin anti-aging routines strategy, by avoiding too acidic conditions (∼pH 3 or below) in daily use cosmetics and thereby allowing better tolerance and an increased adherence of the consumers.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143448874","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The potential use of the standardized Euterpe oleracea (açaí) seed extract in cosmetic products.","authors":"Camila Guimarães Moreira Zimmer, Melina Heller, Evelyn Cristina da Silva Santos, Cristina Setim Freitas, Patricia Oliveira Benedet, Jarbas Mota Siqueira, Rodrigo Marcon, João Batista Calixto","doi":"10.1111/ics.13053","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13053","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>The açaí (Euterpe oleracea), a palm tree fruit native to the Amazon region, holds significant potential for various applications in food, therapeutics and cosmetics. However, the seeds of the açaí fruit, known to contain numerous antioxidants, are discarded and frequently cause environmental pollution. Therefore, this study aimed to explore the potential application of açaí seeds standardized extract (TI-35) as a cosmetic product.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Açai seeds were obtained from a commercial source. Following the extract preparations and phytochemical identification and quantification of the main constituents present in the extract (TI-35), several in vitro studies were performed using human cell line cultures. TI-35 was evaluated on cell viability (human keratinocytes, fibroblasts and melanocytes), proliferation (keratinocytes), antioxidant activity (keratinocytes and fibroblasts), melanin content (melanocytes), metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) activity and tyrosinase inhibition assays. Skin irritation was assessed using a reconstructed human epidermis and mutagenic potential was evaluated, according to the OECD 439 and OECD 471, respectively.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>A total of 14 phytochemical constituents, mainly phenolic compounds, were identified and quantified in the standardized extract TI-35. It demonstrated excellent long-lasting stability and exhibited intrinsic antioxidant activity surpassing that of ascorbic acid. At low concentrations (up to 10 μg/mL), TI-35 did not change cell viability or proliferation. However, the TI-35 decreased basal reactive oxygen species production and produced pronounced scavenging and antioxidant effects. Notably, TI-35 caused inhibition of MMP-1 and its effect was more pronounced when compared with either ascorbic acid or ferulic acid, highlighting its pro-aging property. In addition, TI-35 did not interfere with melanin levels or have skin irritation effect and has no mutagenic activity, providing a solid assurance of the safety of the standardized extract from the seeds of E. oleracea for cosmetic use.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>The standardized extract TI-35, sourced from E. oleracea seeds, a by-product of the Amazon food industry, demonstrated noteworthy pharmacological properties when assessed in vitro, including antioxidant, photoprotective, soothing and sagging effects. Thus, TI-35 emerges as a potential and safe option for the development of innovative cosmetic products.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143440769","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Self-assembly of short biopeptides onto skin tissue components studied using QCM-D.","authors":"N Sanjeeva Murthy, Elham Tavasoli, Tom Mammone, Nevena Karaman-Jurukovska","doi":"10.1111/ics.13044","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13044","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>To enable the discovery of more effective formulations for cosmetic and dermatological applications by understanding the interactions of widely used bioactive ingredients with skin biomolecular components.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Affinities of six common oligopeptide utilized in biomedical application to five primary skin biomolecules (collagen, elastin, laminin, fibronectin and hyaluronic acid) were measured by monitoring their adsorption and subsequent self-assembly using quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation (QCM-D).</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Chemical compositions of both the adsorbates (oligo peptides) and the substrates (skin constituents) influence the adsorption behaviour. Notably, the acetylated elastin-like peptide exhibits minimal adsorption, but the same peptide with a palmitoyl tail shows an order of magnitude higher adsorption, possibly due to the formation of self-assembled aggregates. However, the palmitoyl tail does not have the same effect on a collagen-like sequence. Collagen is the most adhesive skin component for the peptides; fibronectin, elastin and laminin are similar with reduced affinity, and hyaluronic acid has the least affinity. A collagen-binding peptide derived from the collagen- binding domain of the von Willebrand factor shows the fastest kinetics. These observed adsorption behaviours can be understood in terms of noncovalent electrostatic and hydrophobic interactions between the adsorbates and substrates.</p><p><strong>Conclusions: </strong>Adsorption studies of cosmetic product ingredients onto endogenous extracellular matrix components in the skin reported here are expected to provide valuable insights for evaluating their potential efficacy.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143440828","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Synthesis of a new amino acid derivative with long-lasting hair shape control effects and elucidation of its mechanisms.","authors":"Sotaro Sato, Hinako Tabuchi, Kohtaro Katayama, Kenji Matsumoto, Hiroyuki Miyamoto, Sorai Kanno, Hiroshi Sekiguchi, Yoshinobu Tanaka, Mari Inoue, Choji Murata, Hiroki Hotta, Yoshio Tsujino","doi":"10.1111/ics.13054","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13054","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Hair is a crucial aspect of an individual's physical appearance. Thus, there is always a need for technology to care for curls and undulations. In this study, we found that heat treatment with a mixed aqueous solution of cysteamine (2-aminoethanethiol) and fumaric acid was highly effective in improving hair quality. The purpose of this study was to scientifically elucidate the effectiveness of this technology by identifying its active ingredients, evaluating their functionality and analysing changes in the internal structure of hair after treatment.</p><p><strong>Method: </strong>We observed changes in hair shape through a hair straightening test, analysed the components using liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry (LC/MS) and investigated the effects on mechanical properties using bending and surface friction measurements. Furthermore, we analysed the hair conditions using small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) measurements and evaluated water retention using thermal analysis.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>In the hair straightening test, even extremely strong curls of African human hair improved. The LC/MS results revealed that the active ingredient was 2-(2-aminoethylthio) succinic acid (ATS). Furthermore, by treating hair with ATS, decreases in the coefficient of friction and bending stiffness and an increase in moisture content were observed. The SAXS measurements revealed that the treatment widened the distance between the intermediate filaments (IFs) inside the hair and improved the orientation of the IFs.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>ATS, produced by the thiol-ene reaction between fumaric acid and cysteamine, acts as an active ingredient in hair shape control. ATS reacted within the matrix and increased the IF-IF distance. This suggests that ATS functions as a crosslinker for keratin proteins. ATS is believed to increase the moisture content of hair and improve hair texture.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143440764","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Morphological characteristics of normal and oily skin in different phototypes.","authors":"Júlia de Cássia Pavezi, Letícia Kakuda, Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos","doi":"10.1111/ics.13049","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13049","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>A better understanding of the different skin types is very important as a support for the development of more specific cosmetics. In this context, the objective of this study was to evaluate the morphological characteristics of normal and oily skin in different phototypes by biophysical and skin imaging techniques.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Seventy-seven females, aged 18-32 years, phototypes II-V, with oily or normal skin, participated in the study. Instrumental measurements in terms of skin surface sebum and hydration, transepidermal water loss, pore count, skin microrelief, and morphology characteristics of the skin were performed.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The phototype influenced pore count, sebaceous gland activity and skin topography, and skin oiliness showed higher sebaceous gland activity and pore count. Reflectance confocal microscopy image analysis showed deeper dermal papillae in phototype V, both in oily and normal skin, with a thinner epidermal and granulosum layer in oily skin. In addition, darker phototypes exhibited differences in furrow size and a higher prevalence of polycyclic dermal papillae.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>This study highlights the importance of phototype and skin oiliness for a better understanding of skin characteristics, showing the impact of different skin phototypes on pore count, topography, and morphological characteristics of the skin. Thus, understanding how these factors influence skin can help the development of more targeted and effective cosmetics according to skin type.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143433188","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Effect of low humidity on the barrier functions of keratinocytes in a reconstructed human epidermal model.","authors":"Yukiko Izutsu-Matsumoto, Yuri Okano, Hitoshi Masaki, Yoshihiro Tokudome, Tokuro Iwabuchi","doi":"10.1111/ics.13048","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13048","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Dry skin occurs in the winter season when the relative humidity is low; however, the mechanism by which low humidity induces dry skin is not fully understood. To develop measures against dry skin in winter, understanding early changes in the skin upon exposure to low humidity is essential. This study employed a reconstructed human epidermal model (RHEM) to understand these changes.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The stratum corneum (SC) of RHEM was exposed to low-humidity air for 1 h, and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and the penetration rate of lucifer yellow (LY) were measured. mRNA level expression of each target protein and the amounts of ceramides in RHEM were quantified using real-time PCR and LC-EIS/MS/MS, respectively. Protein localization in RHEM was visualized using immunostaining.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Upon exposure to low humidity for 1 h, TEWL and LY penetration in the SC of RHEM were elevated. Even though there was no change in the amount of ceramides, the expression of cornified cell envelope (CCE) component proteins such as filaggrin (FLG) and loricrin (LOR) decreased. Furthermore, free SH and SS crosslink in SC of RHEM exposed to low humidity was decreased, and the SC became less hydrophobic. In tight junctions that contribute to barrier function, cloudin1 (CLDN1) and ZO-1 decreased upon exposure to low humidity.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Low humidity induces immature differentiation of the skin at an early stage characterized by corneocytes with CCE in fragile structures and reduced expression of tight junction proteins. Thus, it can be inferred that repeated exposure to dry air results in the repetition of these initial reactions, ultimately resulting in dry skin.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143399078","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Effects of under-eye skin and crow's feet on perceived facial appearance in women of five ethnic groups.","authors":"Bernhard Fink, Remo Campiche, Todd K Shackelford, Rainer Voegeli","doi":"10.1111/ics.13045","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13045","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Age-related skin changes in the periorbital region caused by intrinsic (e.g. atrophy of collagen and fat) and extrinsic (e.g. sun exposure) factors, including skin wrinkling, hyperpigmentation, dark circles and lateral canthal lines ('crow's feet'), are a concern for women. We investigated the impact of under-eye skin and crow's feet on perceptions of women's faces in different ethnic groups.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Facial images of women (n = 180) from five ethnic groups were rated for age, health and attractiveness by naïve assessors of the same ethnic group (n = 120). Digital image analysis was used to quantify visible skin characteristics in two facial regions, that is, under the eyes (colour, gloss, tone evenness and wrinkles) and in the crow's feet region (wrinkles only). Skin image measurements were used to predict face ratings in the full sample and separately by ethnicity.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Ethnic differences were detected for measurements of skin colour, gloss, tone evenness and wrinkles - the latter under the eyes and in the crow's feet region. Correlational and regression analysis indicated a major role of wrinkles (both regions) in predicting rated age, health and attractiveness from the facial portraits across ethnic groups, with some variation in the types or the predictive magnitude of skin characteristics.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>The predictive utility of under-eye wrinkles and crow's feet for rated age, health and attractiveness correspond to women's reported concern with under-eye bags, dark circles and crow's feet. Despite some ethnic differences in these features, their impact on women's facial appearance ratings is similar across ethnic groups.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143399079","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Rising consumer demand for green cosmetics: The necessity of an ecotoxicological score in the cosmetic industry.","authors":"M Guillaume, L Guillemin, S Pirnay","doi":"10.1111/ics.13051","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13051","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>The increasing demand for eco-friendly cosmetic products, along with tightening environmental regulations, necessitates a comprehensive evaluation of the environmental impact of cosmetic formulations. This study aims to develop an ecotoxicological scoring system, specifically designed for cosmetics, to quantify the ecological risk of product ingredients. This tool will assist industry professionals in selecting ingredients with lower environmental impacts while complying with safety and sustainability requirements.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Key ecotoxicological parameters were assessed, including acute and chronic aquatic toxicity, biodegradability and bioaccumulation potential. Each ingredient's impact was evaluated using these parameters, and a scoring system was developed to simplify the interpretation of complex ecotoxicological data.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The scoring system is based on a set of formulas designed to quantify the ecotoxicological impacts of substances used in cosmetic products. These formulas incorporate various ecotoxicological factors, including biodegradability, aquatic toxicity and impacts on the food chain. Each criterion is weighted according to its environmental significance, leading to a final score that synthesizes the potential harmfulness of a substance. While this model remains theoretical, it provides a solid foundation for rapid and reliable assessments of products in the design phase.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>This ecotoxicological scoring system offers a new approach to assessing the environmental impact of cosmetics. It simplifies the decision-making process by providing clear and accessible data on the ecological risk of formulations. The application of this tool can lead to more sustainable product development and contribute to reducing the cosmetic industry's environmental footprint.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-02-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143399082","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Camellia saponin modulates oleic acid/linoleic acid-induced lipogenesis in human sebocytes through lipophagy activation.","authors":"Kaibo Wan, Jian Li, Ling Ma, Timson Chen, Ya Chen, Zhizhen Li, Christos C Zouboulis, Guang-Li Wang, Jing Wang","doi":"10.1111/ics.13047","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13047","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Background: </strong>Oily skin not only threatens people with aesthetic and hygienic discomfort but also confronts them with annoying skin problems. To explore new skin care ingredients from herbal or plant extracts and understand their underlying mechanism for sebum control would assist in the discovery of desirable sebosuppressive agents, though it is still a deserving and challenging task.</p><p><strong>Aim: </strong>To explore the effect of Camellia saponin (CS) on modulating the lipogenesis of human sebocytes. Moreover, to explore the underlying mechanism of CS on oleic acid/linoleic acid (OL) mixture stimulated lipid accumulation.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The lipid accumulation model of cells was constructed by OL-induction in vitro. The lipid synthesis in SZ95 sebocytes was detected by Oil Red O, Nile Red and BODIPY staining and the distribution of lipid droplets and autophagosomes were evaluated by transmission electron microscopy (TEM). Fluorescence staining, immunofluorescence and western blot (WB) were used to characterize the spatial localization of lipid droplets (LDs)/autophagosome/lysosome, the levels of LC3 and P62 proteins related to intracellular autophagy, as well as the pH of lysosome.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>CS treatment significantly relieved OL-induced lipid accumulation in SZ95 sebocytes. Furthermore, CS maintained lysosomal acid environment to promote the fusion of autophagosome and lysosome, thus recovering the OL-induced blockage of autophagy flow. We also found that CS activated AMPK, and down-regulated mTOR in SZ95 sebocytes.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>CS was able to relieve OL-stimulated sebum accumulation in cultured human SZ95 sebocytes through lipophagy, in which process CS maintained lysosomal acid environment and activated the AMPK/mTOR pathway.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143023378","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}