International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"A manifesto for informed sun protection advice in relation to sunscreens","authors":"Marc Pissavini,&nbsp;Orsalie Kriekoukis,&nbsp;Paul J. Matts,&nbsp;J. Frank Nash,&nbsp;Craig Sinclair,&nbsp;Antony R. Young,&nbsp;Brian L. Diffey","doi":"10.1111/ics.70068","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70068","url":null,"abstract":"<p>In response to the recent tsunami of misinformation around sunscreens and commensurate non-scientific questioning of sunscreen safety and utility, often amplified through social media, this manifesto has been written to reflect accurately and concisely the status of our understanding based on current scientific knowledge. We argue that sunscreen products are not a threat but essential tools in furthering human health globally.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"1055-1058"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70068","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147608777","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A proposal for simplifying the labelling of sunscreens","authors":"Brian Diffey","doi":"10.1111/ics.70103","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70103","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Determination of sun protection factors (SPFs) using the ‘gold standard’ in vivo method (ISO 24444) is known to be associated with appreciable uncertainty because of experimental variability. Consequently, several in vitro methods have been evaluated, that show promising accuracy, reproducibility and correlation with the in vivo ISO 24444 method. As a way of eliminating the uncertainties associated with both in vivo and in vitro methods, a proposal is made here to dispense with the concept of the SPF and instead to introduce a binary system for labelling the protection afforded by topical sunscreens. Phototesting can be either in vivo or in vitro, with in vivo phototesting requiring only a single area of sunscreen-protected skin to be irradiated. Alternatively, a validated in vitro method could be employed to determine the threshold protection required for assigning products to the appropriate binary category.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"1071-1076"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70103","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147770762","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Effects of repeated exposure to ozonated water on hair fibre structure and integrity: Part I","authors":"Pedro Augusto Laurindo Igreja Marrafa,&nbsp;Shamish Ganpule,&nbsp;Vanessa Castro-Haly,&nbsp;Adriana Barrinha Fernandes,&nbsp;Ernesta Malinauskyte,&nbsp;Carlos Jose de Lima","doi":"10.1111/ics.70099","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70099","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Ozone has recently been marketed as a hair-revitalizing treatment claimed to enhance shine, softness and overall fibre quality. However, given its strongly oxidative nature, rigorous evaluation is required to determine its true effects on hair structure. This study investigates the impact of repeated exposure to ozonated water on a variety of hair-fibre properties.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Multiple analytical techniques were used: Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) to detect chemical changes; scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and fluorescence microscopy to assess surface and internal morphological alterations; differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to analyse keratin and matrix thermal behaviour; tensile testing to determine mechanical responses; and combability, shine and colour measurements to evaluate consumer-relevant attributes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Ozonated water induced distinct oxidative modifications across structural, chemical and functional domains. FTIR revealed progressive increases in cysteic acid–related bands and carbonyl groups, confirming protein and lipid oxidation. SEM and fluorescence imaging showed cuticle fusion and increased cortical fluorescence, consistent with elevated carbonyl content. Morphological cuticle changes, together with increased cysteic acid content, aligned with the rise in combing force. DSC demonstrated an increased denaturation temperature accompanied by a slight reduction in enthalpy, indicating altered crosslink density and partial disruption of keratin order; these changes were further supported by increased post-yield stiffness in tensile tests and modifications observed in the Amide I and II regions. Changes in shine and colour were minimal.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Prolonged exposure to ozonated water induced cumulative oxidative modifications of hair proteins, lipids and pigments, resulting in alterations to various hair properties. Ozone appears to induce a unique damage signature that extends beyond the cuticle into the cortex. Future studies will explore lipidomic and biochemical changes in greater depth and evaluate how ozone-treated hair responds to subsequent cosmetic and environmental stressors.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"1077-1092"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70099","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147929009","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Evaluating the suitability of six hydrophobic natural eutectic solvents as the internal phase in a cosmetic cream formulation","authors":"A. Verger,&nbsp;R. Grard,&nbsp;E. Vrignaud,&nbsp;X. Perse,&nbsp;S. Bouderbala,&nbsp;L. Boudesocque-Delaye,&nbsp;M. Grisel,&nbsp;E. Gore,&nbsp;E. Munnier","doi":"10.1111/ics.70097","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70097","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This work evaluates whether hydrophobic natural eutectic solvents can replace the conventional oil phase in cosmetic creams while maintaining or improving physicochemical stability, rheological structure, and sensory performance. The goal is to develop formulations that combine sustainability, regulatory compliance, and sensory performance while remaining compatible with standard low-energy manufacturing processes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Six HNESs systems composed of regulation-compliant fatty acids, menthol, and alkane diols were characterized for viscosity, density, and refractive index. Model oil-in-water creams were prepared using cold homogenization to ensure scalability and energy efficiency. Emulsion stability was assessed over 30 days in accelerated ageing conditions using multiple light scattering and pH tracking; rheology was evaluated via flow curves and strain sweep tests; applicative sensory properties (spreading resistance, gloss, stickiness, residual film wettability) were instrumentally measured on a non-biological skin surrogate.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Solvent composition governed emulsion behaviour. Fatty acid-based systems produced small, stable droplets, low bulk viscosity, and favourable sensory attributes (high lubrication, reduced stickiness), while maintaining dermatologically acceptable pH. Menthol-containing systems exhibited higher viscosities and strong gel-like networks but showed physical instability under storage. Alkane diol-rich systems improved lubrication and gloss yet displayed larger droplet growth and pH drift, indicating weaker long-term stability. Across all creams, residual films decreased the water contact angle markedly, evidencing hydrophilic surface behaviour after application, and immediate gloss increased versus triglycerides control.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>HNESs can function as structural oily phase substitutes in creams prepared by low-energy processes, enabling sustainable, regulation-compliant formulations with desirable sensory profiles. Fatty acid-based systems offer the most robust balance of stability and user experience, whereas menthol- and alkane diol-rich systems require compositional optimization to mitigate storage instability while preserving sensory benefits.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"1029-1041"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70097","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147573927","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Multifunctional powder makeup with salicylic acid–cationic guar gum nanoplexes for acne-prone skin","authors":"Itzel del Carmen Flores-Olvera,&nbsp;Abraham Josué Nevárez-Ramírez,&nbsp;Sergio Alberto Bernal-Chávez","doi":"10.1111/ics.70088","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70088","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study aimed to develop and characterize a multifunctional powder-based makeup incorporating nanoplexes (NPx) composed of salicylic acid (SA) and cationic guar gum (CGG) for potential application in the treatment of acne vulgaris.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>NPx were synthesized via ionic interaction between negatively charged SA and positively charged CGG using a 2ᵏ factorial experimental design to optimize formulation parameters. The resulting NPx were characterized in terms of particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential and encapsulation efficiency using dynamic and electrophoretic light scattering. Additional analyses included FTIR, Raman spectroscopy, thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The optimized NPx were then incorporated into a powder makeup base, also developed via factorial design, and evaluated for rheological and physicomechanical properties. Cell viability was assessed in HaCaT keratinocytes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The optimized NPx formulation exhibited high encapsulation efficiency (83% ± 1.01%), with an average particle size of 854 nm, a PDI of 0.885 and a positive zeta potential of 16.87 mV, indicating colloidal moderate stability and a positive surface charge compatible with dermal adhesion potential. Structural and thermal characterization confirmed successful encapsulation and compatibility of the components. The final powder makeup formulation showed suitable flow properties (Carr's index: 33.391% ± 1.85%; Hausner ratio: 1.50 ± 0.06; angle of repose: 59.87° ± 4.90°), and HaCaT keratinocyte assays demonstrated biocompatibility of Makeup, NPx and Makeup+NPx, with preserved metabolic activity and no cytotoxic effects at the tested concentrations, making it viable for cosmetic application while potentially delivering therapeutic effects.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This work demonstrates that the integration of SA–CGG NPx into a powder makeup base represents a promising strategy for acne-prone skin care and prevention. The resulting dermocosmetic product combines controlled SA delivery with aesthetic functionality, offering a multifunctional approach that supports skin balance while providing cosmetic benefits.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"938-956"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147283637","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Rational determination of real-life UV exposure across latitudes: An extended Diffey-based model integrating behavioural factors","authors":"Marc Pissavini","doi":"10.1111/ics.70091","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70091","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objectives</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In this study, we quantify both the UVB and UVA doses emitted by the sun at ground level and the realistic effective UVB and UVA doses received (ERD) by an individual across latitudes from 0° to 60° North and for every month of the year. These outputs provide a quantitative basis to derive protection indices and to support informed discussion on photoprotection. Our aim is not to prescribe SPF guidance for consumers or dermatologists, but to offer a robust scientific framework that clarifies how real-life exposure, behavioural factors, effective UVB and UVA-weighted doses and solar geometry collectively shape the necessary UV protection.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Daily UV doses were computed for the 21st day of each month to capture seasonal extremes. These doses, expressed as Standard Erythemal Doses (UVB) and UVA-weighted doses, were calculated for each latitude based on Diffey's spectral irradiance framework. Two corrective factors were applied: (i) effective outdoor exposure time and (ii) body orientation. These adjustments allowed conversion of ambient daily doses into effective UVB and UVA-received doses (ERD). Finally, a third factor, representing realistic sunscreen application density (0.8 mg/cm²), was introduced to estimate the necessary level of UV protection.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Across all latitudes and seasons, UV-weighted doses requirements follow predictable patterns driven by solar geometry. At most temperate latitudes, daily SED values range from approximately 5 to 60, while extreme values of 65–70 SED occur in tropical regions (10–30° N). The greatest differences between latitudes arise from seasonality. UVA-PF requirements exhibit similar constraints.</p>\u0000 \u0000 <p>When converted into effective received dose and then expressed in SPF terms, values above 60 provide minimal additional UVB benefit under realistic conditions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>By converting ambient irradiance into effective received dose, this model provides a realistic framework for daily UV exposure. It complements Diffey's approach rather than replacing it, supports rational discussion on SPF and UVA-PF adequacy without prescribing individual recommendations and offers a quantitative basis for realistic product design, regulatory discussion and consumer guidance.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"977-989"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70091","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147443606","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A novel all-in-one dynamic wrinkle evaluation system: Development, validation and application in cosmetic industries","authors":"Xingzuo Liu,&nbsp;Juanjuan Chen,&nbsp;Chengda Ye,&nbsp;Andrew Steel,&nbsp;Yidong Tu,&nbsp;Frederic Flament,&nbsp;Jing Li","doi":"10.1111/ics.70077","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70077","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study aimed to develop and validate a novel, integrated dynamic wrinkle assessment system based on standardized, real-time and multi-angle facial images and video recordings, and to explore its potential application in evaluating the anti-wrinkle efficacy of skincare products.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A standardized protocol was developed for a novel system integrating a high-precision positioning apparatus with synchronized, multi-angle high-speed cameras to capture facial expressions from a neutral to a maximal state. To ensure longitudinal consistency, a novel algorithm was used to select analysis frames based on angular congruence. The system's reproducibility and accuracy were validated by expert dermatologists using the intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC). The system's feasibility and effectiveness were assessed in an 8-week anti-wrinkle cream efficacy trial.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The integrated dynamic wrinkle evaluation system demonstrated high inter-rater reliability (ICC &gt;0.70) across 35 Chinese women, with ICC values exceeding 0.900 for key facial areas. In an anti-aging efficacy trial (<i>n</i> = 42), the system successfully detected and quantified significant improvements (<i>p</i> &lt; 0.05) in both static and dynamic wrinkles following product use.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study successfully developed and validated an all-in-one dynamic wrinkle photo grading evaluation system for personalized assessment of treatment outcomes following topical application of cosmetic products. The high accuracy of the clinician evaluations offers a new approach for assessing the effects of anti-aging skincare and cosmetic products, surpassing traditional static assessment methods.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 5","pages":"926-937"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70077","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147283685","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A novel biomimetic hair colouring system based on the eumelanin precursor 5,6-dihydroxyindole.","authors":"Yuji Mochizuki, Anna Ide, Akiyori Fujiwara, Tohru Nagahama, Anju Yamada, Kenji Matsumoto, Hiroki Hotta, Yoshio Tsujino","doi":"10.1111/ics.70145","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70145","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>The use of traditional hair dyeing agents to dye hair may cause scalp and hair damage, induce melanocyte stem cell depletion, and in some cases trigger allergic reactions. Therefore, we explored a novel hair colouring approach using 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI), a precursor of eumelanin, to dye grey hair. This study aimed to elucidate the mechanism by which cationic polymer pretreatment enhances the dyeability of DHI, focusing on changes in hair surface charge and the dyeing mechanism of DHI.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Dyeability was assessed by UV-Vis spectrophotometry. The degree of cationization at different pH values was determined by colloid titration, and the hair surface potential was measured using a zeta potential analyser. Adsorption and penetration behaviours were evaluated by confocal fluorescence microscopy with ionic fluorescent dyes. Cross-sections of DHI-dyed hair were examined by optical microscopy.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Pretreatment with a specific cationic polymer increased the dyeability of DHI-based formulations. A polymer capable of retaining positive charge under alkaline conditions (pH 10) was identified, and its suitability was confirmed by degree of cationization measurements, zeta potential shifts and fluorescence adsorption imaging. Mechanistic analyses indicated that water-soluble DHI is retained within the δ-layer of the cell membrane complex in the cuticle region, where it undergoes air oxidation and polymerization, resulting in fixation within the hair.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Cationic polymer pretreatment enhances DHI dyeability and may support the development of DHI-based formulations as potential alternatives to oxidative hair dyes.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-09-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148944289","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Lignan-rich Norway spruce (Picea abies) resin extract exhibits anti-inflammatory, skin-regenerative and anti-acne effects: In vitro, in silico, biocompatibility and exploratory clinical findings.","authors":"Simone Parrotta, Kamilla Yamileva, Laura Punakallio, Maryam Ghanbarirad, Evgen Multia","doi":"10.1111/ics.70147","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70147","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>To investigate the antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and early pro-repair properties of Picea abies resin extract and a 30% extract-based cream and to explore preliminary in-use performance, tolerability and cosmetic acceptability in adults with mild acne.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The chemical composition of the extract was characterized by GC-MS. Anti-Cutibacterium acnes activity was evaluated by minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) determination, time-kill testing and an inoculated-cream model. Anti-inflammatory and pro-repair effects were assessed in LPS-stimulated human keratinocytes by measuring IL-1α, IL-6 and IL-8, and in normal human dermal fibroblasts by cellular protein synthesis. Mechanistic plausibility was explored by Glide SP docking against AlphaFold2-generated models of IKKβ, JNK1, NF-κB and PPARγ. Safety was evaluated by ISO 10993-5 agar diffusion and a 48-h human patch test, and clinical performance was explored in a 28-day, open-label, uncontrolled in-use evaluation involving adults with mild facial acne.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>GC-MS identified p-coumaric acid, resin acids and the lignans pinoresinol, isolariciresinol and secoisolariciresinol as major constituents. The extract showed an MIC of 30% against C. acnes and, at this concentration, achieved a > 4.9-log₁₀ reduction after 8 h, whereas the cream containing 30% extract achieved a 4.03-log₁₀ reduction after 8 h in the inoculated-cream model. In LPS-stimulated keratinocytes, the cream reduced IL-1α by 14-17%, IL-6 by 22-39% and IL-8 by 16-26%. In dermal fibroblasts, cellular protein synthesis increased by 35-50% within 24-48 h. Docking identified putative interactions of lignans and p-coumaric acid with IKKβ, JNK1, NF-κB and PPARγ, providing hypotheses for further mechanistic investigation. No cytotoxicity or irritation was observed. In an exploratory open-label 28-day in-use study (n = 31), total lesions decreased 26.8% (p < 0.0001), papules 52.1% (p = 0.001) and comedones 17.6% (p < 0.0001), with 87% favourable acceptability and no reported intolerance.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Picea abies resin extract and the extract-containing cream demonstrated antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and early pro-repair activities in preclinical models, with good tolerability. Docking identified potential compound-target interactions that may help guide future mechanistic studies. The exploratory 28-day in-use evaluation provided preliminary signals of reduced papules and comedones/microcysts and good cosmetic acceptability. These findings support further mechanistic investigation in adequately powered, randomized, vehicle-controlled clinical studies.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-09-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148944323","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Environmental and lifestyle determinants of skin ageing: Association between skin dryness and dyspigmentation in Chinese women.","authors":"Judith Elkaim, Robin Kurfurst, Gallic Beauchef, Tianxiang Ouyang, Catherine Heusèle, Sylvianne Schnebert, Karl Pays, Carine Nizard","doi":"10.1111/ics.70146","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70146","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>To evaluate and classify the effects of seasonal and environmental variations on skin ageing features-specifically pigmentation disorders and dryness-in vivo in an Asian female population.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The skin characteristics of 200 Chinese women aged 20-70 years, residing in rural (YiXing) and urban (Shanghai) areas, were assessed during two representative seasons-late winter (March) and early summer (June)-to explore the relationship between seasonal or environmental variations and skin ageing manifestations. Phototype was classified using the Fitzpatrick Scale; dyspigmentation was rated with a six-grade photographic scale; and dryness was evaluated using both self-reported and expert-administered questionnaires. Statistical analyses examined associations between dyspigmentation and dryness, stratified by locality and season.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Dyspigmentation and skin dryness were significantly more prevalent among rural participants in both March and June. Skin dryness was more marked in winter, suggesting a relatively short-term (from daily to monthly) evolution due to external conditions such as cold weather. On the opposite, dyspigmentation showed little seasonal variation-a pattern more consistent with a dependence on cumulative exposure rather than on short-term seasonal changes. A statistically significant correlation was observed between skin dryness and dyspigmentation across localities and seasons.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>This study identifies a significant correlation between skin dryness and dyspigmentation in Chinese women, consistent across localities and seasons. Both parameters were also influenced by seasonal and lifestyle factors, supporting their potential as morphological markers of the exposome's impact on skin health and ageing in both rural and urban settings. Further research, including in vitro models, is needed to elucidate the mechanisms potentially linking skin dryness and dyspigmentation.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-09-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148919820","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}