International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Hydrolyzed conchiolin protein inhibits melanogenesis through PKA/CREB and MEK/ERK signalling pathways","authors":"Yaqi Zhang,&nbsp;Sisi Wang,&nbsp;Anquan Yang","doi":"10.1111/ics.13012","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13012","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Hydrolyzed conchiolin protein (HCP) derived from pearl and nacre extracts exerts skin-lightening effects; however, the underlying molecular mechanisms are not fully understood. Herein, we investigated the effect of HCP on melanogenesis and the signalling pathways involved.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>B16F10 cells and PIG cells were treated with HCP to verify its ability to inhibit melanin. Western Blot, immunofluorescence, and flow cytometry methods were performed to investigate the effect of HCP on melanogenesis signalling pathway proteins. The inhibitors were used to further validate the effect of HCP on PKA/CREB and MEK/ERK signalling pathways. To further evaluate the whitening ability of HCP, changes in melanin were detected using 3D melanin skin model and zebrafish model.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>HCP was found to significantly inhibit melanin synthesis and decrease the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related protein-2, in a dose-dependent manner. Additionally, we revealed that HCP suppresses melanogenesis via the regulation of the PKA/cAMP response element-binding (CREB) and MEK/extracellular signalling-regulated kinase (ERK) signalling pathways. Using 3D melanin skin models, we demonstrated that HCP can achieve skin-lightening effects by improving apparent chroma, increasing apparent brightness, and inhibiting melanin synthesis. Furthermore, HCP exhibits skin-whitening effects in a zebrafish model.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>These results suggest that HCP suppresses the melanogenesis signalling cascade by inhibiting the PKA/CREB, MEK/ERK signalling pathway and downregulating MITF and its downstream signalling pathways, resulting in decreased melanin synthesis. In summary, HCP is a potential anti-pigmentation agent with promising applications in cosmetics and pharmaceutical products.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"31-44"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13012","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141916664","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action","authors":"Bezaleel Mambwe,&nbsp;Kieran T. Mellody,&nbsp;Orsolya Kiss,&nbsp;Clare O'Connor,&nbsp;Mike Bell,&nbsp;Rachel E. B. Watson,&nbsp;Abigail K. Langton","doi":"10.1111/ics.13013","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13013","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal–epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-<i>trans</i> retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-<i>trans</i> retinoic acid is considered the ‘gold standard’ for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"45-57"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13013","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141916663","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"In vitro, ex vivo, instrumental and clinical evaluation of a topical cream on the signs of periorbital ageing","authors":"Alexandra D'Arcangelis,&nbsp;Sayantani Goswami Chatterjee,&nbsp;Isabel Diaz,&nbsp;Sabine Guehenneux,&nbsp;Jin Namkoong,&nbsp;Joanna Wu","doi":"10.1111/ics.12987","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12987","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Periorbital skin ageing signs are multidimensional, highly visible and a concern for many. We evaluated the potential efficacy of an eye cream to diminish these signs.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Biological markers associated with ageing, barrier function and homeostasis were analysed in vitro to determine the effects of topically applied eye cream, compared to those of a placebo using human skin tissue models and/or explants. Collagen IV, elastin and bone morphogenic protein 4 (BMP4) expression was investigated by immunohistochemical labelling, while filaggrin, kallikrein 7 (KLK7) and HB-EGF were evaluated by RT-qPCR. IL-1α and melanin levels in darkly pigmented skin models were also quantified. The protective effect of the cream on glycation was assessed by a non-enzymatic assay. Finally, the benefits of twice-daily applications of the eye cream for 56 days were instrumentally and clinically evaluated on 33 women.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Only the eye cream, not the placebo, stimulated collagen IV and BMP4 protein expression, as well as increased elastin fibre length. It also led to higher HB-EGF, filaggrin and KLK7 mRNA levels. The placebo and the eye cream did not induce changes in IL-1α and melanin levels, but both reduced non-enzymatic glycation. When assessing the in vivo effects of the cream, short-term results indicated skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin profilometry improvement within 15 min. Instrumental evaluations of wrinkles showed a reduction after 7 days, which was clinically perceivable after 28 or 56 days. The eye-opening angle and eyelid sagging also improved after seven and 28 days, respectively. Finally, dark circles became lighter within 7 days (instrumental measurement) or 28 days (clinical assessment).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The instrumental and clinical evaluations revealed that the eye cream reduced all periorbital ageing signs evaluated. Its effects are supported by the in vitro and ex vivo analyses of molecular markers.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"18-30"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12987","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141906605","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Fermented tea leave extract against oxidative stress and ageing of skin in vitro and in vivo","authors":"Gai-xiang Wang,&nbsp;Wei-cheng Fei,&nbsp;Lei-lei Zhi,&nbsp;Xue-dong Bai,&nbsp;Bing You","doi":"10.1111/ics.12976","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12976","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The objective is to develop a natural and stable anti-oxidative stress and anti-ageing ingredient. In this study, we evaluated the changes in white tea leaves fermented with <i>Eurotium cristatum</i> PLT-PE and <i>Saccharomyces boulardii</i> PLT-HZ and their efficacy against skin oxidative stress.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We employed untargeted metabolomics technology to analyse the differential metabolites between tea extract (TE) and fermented tea extract (FTE). In vitro, using H₂O₂-induced HaCaT cells, we evaluated cell vitality, ROS, and inflammatory factors (TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6). Additionally, we verified the effects on the extracellular matrix and nuclear DNA using fibroblasts or reconstructed skin models. We measured skin hydration, elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio in volunteers after using an emulsion containing 3% FTE for 28 and 56 days.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Targeted metabolomics analysis of white tea leaves yielded more than 20 differential metabolites with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, including amino acids, polypeptides, quercetin, and liquiritin post-fermentation. FTE, compared to TE, can significantly reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) and protect against oxidative stress-induced skin damage in H₂O₂-induced HaCaT cells. FTE can inhibit H₂O₂-induced collagen degradation by suppressing the MAPK/c-Jun signalling pathway and can also mitigate the reactive oxygen species damage to nuclear DNA. Clinical studies showed that the volunteers' stratum corneum water content, skin elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio significantly improved from the baseline after 28 and 56 days of FTE use.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study contributes to the growing body of literature supporting the protective effects against skin oxidative stress and ageing from fermented plant extracts. Moreover, our findings might inspire multidisciplinary efforts to investigate new fermentation techniques that could produce even more potent anti-ageing solutions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"1-17"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141906591","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Effects of eczema calming lotion on the stratum corneum in atopic dermatitis: Corneodesmosin and intercellular lipid lamellae","authors":"Hilal Ilarslan,&nbsp;William F. Lathrop,&nbsp;Brian Dobkowski,&nbsp;Stacy S. Hawkins,&nbsp;Jane Scott,&nbsp;John Bajor,&nbsp;Andrew E. Mayes","doi":"10.1111/ics.12962","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12962","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Atopic dermatitis (AD) is characterized by compositional and structural changes to the skin at lesional sites. Alteration to the levels and organization of both protein and lipid components are associated with disease status and lead to impaired barrier and hydration. Corneodesmosin (CDSN) and the arrangement and length of the intercellular lipid lamellae (ICLL) are altered in disrupted skin states. The aim of this research was to profile the distribution of CDSN and the ICLL in the stratum corneum (SC) at lesional and non-lesional sites in AD-prone skin and to investigate the impact of an eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids, and colloidal oatmeal.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>An IRB-approved study was conducted with participants with active AD. From a small subset of participants, tape strips were collected from lesional and non-lesional sites on the arm, prior to and after twice daily application, over 4 weeks of an eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids, and colloidal oatmeal. Fluorescent antibody staining was used to investigate the distribution of CDSN. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM) was used to characterize the ICLL.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The distribution/coverage of CDSN was similar between lesional and non-lesional sites at baseline; application of the lotion resulted in a more defined honeycomb/peripheral distribution. Normalized ICLL (nICLL) was lower in baseline samples from lesional sites relative to non-lesional sites. Application of the lotion increased this parameter by the end of the study at all sites.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The eczema calming lotion containing petroleum jelly, fatty acids and colloidal oatmeal provided changes in corneodesmosomal proteins distribution and ICLL, consistent with improvements in corneocyte maturation and improved barrier function in the skin of individuals with atopic dermatitis.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"516-525"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901617","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Protein degradation in the stratum corneum","authors":"Georgios N. Stamatas","doi":"10.1111/ics.12974","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12974","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost epidermal layer, plays a pivotal role in skin barrier function. This review delves into the intricate process of protein degradation within the stratum corneum, elucidating the roles of specific enzymes, regulatory mechanisms and the consequent impact on various skin conditions. Protein degradation is a finely tuned process, orchestrated by a suite of proteolytic enzymes like kallikreins. These enzymes are responsible for the breakdown of corneodesmosomes and the orderly desquamation of corneocytes, a process essential for skin homeostasis. Another critical enzymatic process is the breakdown of proteins like filaggrin and the generation of amino acids and their derivatives, required in the physiological water-handling properties of the SC. Regulation of these proteolytic activities is complex, involving a balance between endogenous inhibitors and other factors like pH, hydration and environmental stressors. Dysregulation of protease activity is linked to a spectrum of skin conditions, ranging from xerosis to inflammatory diseases like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Aberrant protein degradation can lead to compromised skin barrier function, increased tissue water loss and heightened susceptibility to infections and allergens. Understanding the factors affecting protein degradation can inform the development of targeted skincare products. Advances in biochemistry and dermatology have paved the way for the search for active ingredients designed to modulate protease activity. Such innovations may offer promising therapeutic avenues for enhancing skin barrier function and treating skin disorders. This review underscores the significance of enzymatic protein degradation in the SC and its regulatory mechanisms. It provides insights into the pathophysiology of skin diseases and outlines the potential for novel skincare interventions. By bridging the gap between fundamental research and practical applications, this article aims to inspire further investigation for better understanding of skin physiology and innovation in the realm of skincare product development.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"590-597"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12974","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901621","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Clinical efficacy of a multilamellar cream on skin physiology and microbiome in an epidermal stress model: A controlled double-blinded study (Part I)1","authors":"Joachim W. Fluhr,&nbsp;Peter Menzel,&nbsp;Rolf Schwarzer,&nbsp;Dessyslava G. Nikolaeva,&nbsp;Razvigor Darlenski,&nbsp;Martin Albrecht","doi":"10.1111/ics.12950","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12950","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Introduction&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Stratum corneum (SC) is essential for skin barrier function, mitigating water loss and shielding against potentially harmful substances and allergens. The SC's lipid matrix, arranged in a lamellar structure, is integral to its protective role. Our study explores the restoration effects of a multilamellar cream with an acidic pH compared to a basic placebo cream on skin physiology and its interaction with the skin microbiome after stress induction via tape stripping (TS).&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Materials and Methods&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;In this double-blind study, 14 healthy participants aged 21–58 years were assessed pre- and post-tape stripping, followed by a 14 days application of a multilamellar test cream and a placebo cream with evaluations on days 7, 14 and 17 for sustained effects. Skin physiology was analysed in terms of epidermal barrier function, SC hydration and surface pH. The microbiome was analysed by 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing the 16S rRNA gene using Illumina MiSeq, with subsequent species identification.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Results&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Our study showed significant improvements in skin barrier repair and SC hydration with verum, particularly after 14 days of application, while both creams initially enhanced stratum corneum hydration. No significant changes in surface-pH were detected. The skin microbiome analysis revealed that TS slightly decreased alpha diversity, a trend that verum significantly reversed, enhancing diversity beyond baseline levels after 14 days. Overall, while both creams contributed to a broader microbial phyla diversity over time, no significant changes in the abundance of specific genera or species were noted between treatments.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Discussion and Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Our study delineates the efficacy of a pH-optimized multilamellar cream in enhancing epidermal barrier recovery and SC hydration post-sequential TS, in contrast to an unstructured basic placebo. Verum cream significantly improved skin barrier function and SC hydration at day 14, with sustained effects evident beyond the treatment period. Furthermore, the multilamellar formulation facilitated the restitution of cutaneous microbiome diversity, a key indicator of healthy skin ecology, underscoring the symbiotic relationship between barrier integrity and microbial composition. These findings underscore the importance of multilamellar emollient structures in dermatological therapeutics, with potential implications for the design of advanced skincare interventions that holistical","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"566-577"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12950","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901615","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Tony Rawlings – A Festschrift","authors":"Majella E. Lane,&nbsp;David J Moore","doi":"10.1111/ics.13009","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13009","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;p&gt;It is a very welcome and special honour for us to edit this special issue of the &lt;i&gt;International Journal of Cosmetic Science&lt;/i&gt; dedicated to recognizing the contributions that Anthony (Tony) Rawlings has made to skin barrier research over the last several decades. In addition to being a collaborator for many years Tony is also a dear friend to both of us.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tony's career can be split (very crudely) into three distinct activities: industrial R&amp;D scientist, journal editor, and scientific consultant. Of course, while doing each of these roles Tony was always an author, a teacher, a mentor, a conference organizer, a skin barrier enthusiast, a collaborator, and a champion of young scientists among many other roles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;We thank the authors of each of the contributions to this special issue and are particularly delighted that the contributions range from the highly personal, to review articles, and new research. To those that know Tony well it will come as no surprise that although he is now officially retired, he co-authored two of the contributions to this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;As discussed immediately below Tony's impact as editor of this journal was immense.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;We are delighted to include contributions by Clive Harding (“Dr. Anthony Rawlings: The Unilever Years. 1988–2001”) and Rainer Voegeli (“Memories of a two-decade journey with a SC Addict”) as part of this introduction. Clive and Rainer are each uniquely placed to provide personal perspectives and historical context to Tony's significant contributions to skin barrier science as an industrial scientist and as a consultant, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tony first joined the Editorial Advisory Board of the IJCS in 1998. In 2002 he was appointed co-editor, (succeeding Anthony Dweck), with Dr. Didier Saint-Leger serving as Editor-In-Chief (EIC). Subsequently Tony was appointed EIC of the IJCS in 2003 with Dr. Claude Dubief becoming co-editor. Successive co-editors included Professor Christine Lafforgue and Dr. Karl Lintner. In 2013, Tony handed over the editorial reins to Dr. Karl Lintner and Dr. Majella Lane.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;When Tony was appointed EIC in 2003, the journal was not online and content could not be easily accessed. Moreover, the journal did not have an Institute for Scientific Information (ISI) impact factor, an essential requirement to attract academic researchers to publish in the IJCS. To address these issues, firstly Tony began the application process for the journal to be included in the MEDLINE database, the premier online bibliographic database for journal articles in life sciences. At the same time he also began the work necessary to obtain an ISI impact factor for the IJCS. Inclusion of the IJCS in MEDLINE was accepted in 2008 and the allocation of an ISI impact factor was agreed in 2011; however an actual impact factor was not provided until 2014. The award of an impact factor may be solely attributed to Tony's efforts on behalf of the IJCS and this achievement for the IJCS may not b","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"479-480"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13009","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901626","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The importance of stratum corneum ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides in human skin barrier health: their biochemistry, processing enzymes and metabolites involved in corneocyte lipid envelope maturation","authors":"Anthony V. Rawlings,&nbsp;Majella E. Lane,&nbsp;Rainer Voegeli","doi":"10.1111/ics.12955","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12955","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Over the past 50 years there have been great strides made in the discovery of the composition and relevance of the total stratum corneum (SC) ceramide matrix. However, the focus of this review is on the free intercellular class of ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides, corneocyte-bound ceramides and associated lipids known as the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE) together with their processing enzymes involved in aiding ceramide attachment the corneocyte protein envelope (CPE). Two structural models and partially shared biosynthetic pathways have been proposed for the attachment of CPE-bound O-ceramides (ω-hydroxyceramides attached to glutamate residues of proteins in the (CPE) using the 12R-lipoxygenase (12R-LOX)/epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3)/epoxide hydrolase-3 (EPHX3)/unknown esterase/ transglutaminase-1 (TG1) attachment pathway) and CPE-bound EO-ceramides (epoxy-enone ceramides attached to cysteine residues of proteins in the CPE using the 12R-LOX/eLOX3/short chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7)/non-enzymatic attachment pathway), i.e. there is a bifurcation step beyond epidermal eLOX3. Their formation and structures will be discussed as well as their relevance in compromised skin barrier conditions together with our own work on SC maturation examined by proteomics, lipidomics, enzyme immunolocalization studies, mechanical fragility assays and Nile red staining of corneocyte envelopes (CE). Reduced levels of 12R-LOX, eLOX3, SDR9C7 and TG1 were observed in photodamaged skin of the cheeks that were associated with reduced SC maturation as evidenced by Nile red staining and increased CE fragility. In the severely photodamaged cheeks of Albino African SC we also observed increased levels of acylceramides. Concomitantly by reducing the activity of 12R-LOX by antibody inhibition and TG1 inhibition with a known chemical inhibitor, we demonstrated in a humidity-based ex vivo SC maturation model that these enzymes contributed to increased CE hydrophobicity and mechanical integrity. We hypothesize that at least the CPE-bound O-ceramide pathway is operational in the SC. Nevertheless, our understanding of the full complexity of ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides and the composition of the CLE is limited particularly on cosmetically relevant body sites such as the face.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"623-642"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12955","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901624","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The role of ceramides in skin barrier function and the importance of their correct formulation for skincare applications","authors":"Jennifer Schild,&nbsp;Aneta Kalvodová,&nbsp;Jarmila Zbytovská,&nbsp;Mike Farwick,&nbsp;Cornelia Pyko","doi":"10.1111/ics.12972","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12972","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Ceramides are a family of lipids constituted by a sphingoid base and a fatty acid. In the skin, they are mainly present in the stratum corneum where, with cholesterol and free fatty acids, they constitute the inter-corneocyte lipids. With the other lipid groups, they play a key role in the formation of dense lamellar structures between adjacent corneocytes, collectively ensuring the vital efficient barrier to water evaporation and protection from foreign agents´ penetration. Changes in ceramide level and relative composition, with potential impairment of lipid arrangement, have been evidenced in different skin conditions and skin diseases. Therefore, use of suitably formulated ceramides has been proposed for topical treatment to help re-structure damaged lipid arrangement and repair impaired skin barrier function. Nonetheless, the formulation of ceramides in products necessitates specific processes such as heating to high temperature before their introduction in the final formula. In this review on the structure, the role and the potential of ceramides for skincare, we point out the necessity of rigorous process when formulating ceramides into the final product. We demonstrate the counterproductive effects of undissolved ceramides on skin barrier repair capacity of the formulas, when assessed in different in vitro models of disrupted skin barrier.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"526-543"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12972","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901625","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}