International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Moisturizing and antioxidant factors of skin barrier restoring cream with shea butter, silkflo and vitamin E in human keratinocyte cells","authors":"Ratheesh Mohanan,&nbsp;Svenia P. Jose,&nbsp;Sheethal Sreevallabhan,&nbsp;Jatheera K. Jalam,&nbsp;Jayesh Tilwani,&nbsp;Tariq Jagmag,&nbsp;Mahesh Abhyankar,&nbsp;Sajeev Martin George","doi":"10.1111/ics.13014","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13014","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Moisturizers are integral to daily skincare routines, reflecting the increasing trend among people towards cosmetic products, particularly for skin care. They significantly contribute to preserving skin health, particularly by regulating the epidermal barrier and moisture levels within the skin. This study aims to explore the moisturizing and antioxidant effect of skin barrier restoring cream Moiz MM (MZ) with shea butter, silkflo and vitamin E by investigating its protective effect against oxidative stress-induced cellular damage and therapeutic mechanisms in human keratinocytes cells (HaCaT).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The in vitro antioxidant activity of MZ was evaluated by DPPH, ABTS and NO assays. For the cell culture study, HaCaT cells were cultured and stimulated using H₂O₂ and then treated with different concentrations of MZ. Then, it was subjected to DCFH-DA staining, reverse transcriptase PCR and western blot analysis for the evaluation of various skin-moisture-related components in human keratinocyte cells. Type I procollagen was examined using ELISA technique.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The results highlighted that oxidative stress in HaCaT cells decreased type I procollagen synthesis, while MZ treatment significantly increased the synthesis. Moreover, the viability of HaCaT cells was not affected in the presence of MZ, which demonstrates its non-toxic effect. Furthermore, MZ can counteract H₂O₂-mediated oxidative stress by enhancing the antioxidant enzyme activity such as superoxide dismutase and catalase, and decrease reactive oxygen species generation in skin cells. Additionally, MZ greatly promotes hyaluronic acid production by enhancing the expression of the hyaluronic acid synthase-1 gene and Aquaporin 3 protein.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study suggests that MZ has the potential to serve as a moisturizing and antioxidant skincare formula.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"260-269"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-11-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142619711","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The kinetics of moisture sorption by hair","authors":"S. Breakspear,&nbsp;T. Evans,&nbsp;P. Frueh,&nbsp;A. Neu,&nbsp;B. Noecker,&nbsp;C. Popescu,&nbsp;Q. Uellner","doi":"10.1111/ics.13028","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13028","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The rate process of moisture sorption by human hair has been analysed in order to hints for helping deepen knowledge on the hair structure and to explain the behaviour of hair in response to moisture.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The isotherms of moisture sorption by hair were recorded, via dynamic vapour sorption (DVS), for untreated (virgin) and treated (heat-shaped and bleached) hair, as well as for separated cuticle and cortex.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>By considering that, during moisture uptake, the hair fibres also swell, it is possible to introduce a time-dependent rate constant for describing the kinetics of the moisture sorption. This model allows for clearly separating the moisture sorption processes occurring in Cuticle and in Cortex and for proposing a role of chain entanglement in the two main compartments of the fibre. It may also provide some hints on the structural changes occurring in the fibre after different cosmetic treatments. The influence of the weight of the sample on the kinetics of the sorption process has also been noted and quantified. The analysis pointed to a transition occurring at around 30% relative humidity, assigned to the opening of the hair inner structure, and accommodation of more water molecules. This allowed for an estimate of the value of the activation energy of the water molecules reacting with the active sites, which was found to be in good agreement with results published in the literature.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The analysis of the kinetics of moisture sorption by hair was shown not only to provide information on the chain entanglement inside the fibre and the effect of cosmetic treatments but also to demonstrate and quantify the influence of fibre density on the sorption process. It is thus suggested that, along with examination of the hysteresis, the analysis of sorption kinetics helps reveal a more complete picture of hair moisture management.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"270-280"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-11-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142619717","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Insights into structural and proteomic alterations related to pH-induced changes and protein deamidation in hair","authors":"Sunil S. Adav,&nbsp;Alicia Rosabee Yu Ling Wu,&nbsp;Kee Woei Ng","doi":"10.1111/ics.13029","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13029","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objectives</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The hair shaft is often exposed to shampoo and haircare products that have unknown or varying pH levels. These products contain a combination of surfactants and other active ingredients to treat the hair or the scalp. As amphoteric proteins, hair keratins have limited buffering capacity, so variations in pH can have multifaceted impacts on them. However, there is limited knowledge about how pH affects keratins and keratin-associated proteins (KAPs). Therefore, this study aims to examine the effects of varying pH levels (pH 3–pH 12) on hair structure and analyse consequent alterations in the hair proteome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A scanning electron microscope was used to examine changes in hair-shaft morphology due to exposure to various pH levels, while mass spectrometry was employed to analyse protein alterations.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We found that exposing the hair shaft to varying pH levels led to specific effects on the cuticle, including cuticle lifting at certain pH levels, while proteomics analysis identified alterations in the hair proteome along with significant deamidation of keratins types I and II and KAPs. More pronounced effects were observed at extreme acidic conditions (pH 3) and alkaline conditions (above pH 8) on both hair morphology and hair proteins. pH levels between pH 5 and pH 7 had minimal impact on hair structure and proteins, suggesting that haircare products with pH in this range are ideal for hair-shaft health. In contrast, alkaline pH levels were found to negatively affect hair.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The structure evaluation and proteomics data emphasize the critical role of pH in hair health. The extreme acidic or alkaline pH impacts the hair structure and hair proteins. The study highlights the optimal pH range for maintaining healthy hair.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"281-296"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-11-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142619704","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"SCAWA scales: A new digital tool for wrinkles clinical grading based on AI","authors":"Juliette Rengot,&nbsp;Elodie Prestat-Marquis,&nbsp;Ingrid Aime,&nbsp;Jean-Robert Campos,&nbsp;Etienne Camel,&nbsp;Ghislain François","doi":"10.1111/ics.12995","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12995","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Objective&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Clinical assessment of wrinkle depth is essential for efficacy evaluations of anti-ageing products. Standardized photographic scales, representative of different wrinkle depths are often used by experts to assign subjects reliable grades. These tools, based on real pictures, usually exist as hard copies (printed books or sheets) for in vivo gradings. Our project aims at developing a methodology to create digital standardized computer-generated scales, allowing photograph and real-life gradings, and providing raters with greater comfort, accessibility, and flexibility in their construction, thanks to the artificial intelligence significative contribution.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Methods&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;A completely new approach, based on machine learning, allows the creation of Standardized ColorFace® AI-based Wrinkle Assessment (SCAWA) scales. Instead of using real photographs, the scale images are computer-generated. A generative adversarial network (GAN) is trained to create realistic wrinkle samples that are finely controllable by exploring the GAN latent space. Finally, the scale images are selected among hundreds of artificial images depicting natural wrinkle appearances, such as the illustrated wrinkle evolution is well-detailed (small gaps between grades), morphologically stable, and mathematically linear according to a criterion of wrinkle conspicuous depth.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Results&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;The created 12-point scale for crow's feet wrinkle evaluation on ColorFace® pictures is proven to be realistic, linear, and robustly and accurately usable for photograph assessments. The scale coherence in terms of image ranking has been validated, as well as its reliability and acceptability in real conditions of use. Additionally, the wrinkle grades obtained by the SCAWA scale are well correlated (&lt;i&gt;R&lt;/i&gt; = 0.94) with the ones obtained by the Skin Aging Atlas on the same pictures. The AI methodology and digital format brought also interesting side results, such as an enhanced harmonization between experts and a higher representativeness, that is, a decrease of out-of-range pictures.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;SCAWA scale makes the most of machine learning to provide an innovative digital tool to ease wrinkles in visual assessment of pictures, while optimizing linearity, homogeneity, and accuracy aspects. The experts' enthusiastic feedback about the scale format and quality is promising regarding the adaptation of the methodology to other signs and a larger distribution of this tool in the market of cosmetic product efficacy assessment.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"240-259"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142346173","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Microalgae-based sunscreens as green and sustainable cosmetic products","authors":"Asal Najafi,&nbsp;Mobina Heidary,&nbsp;Renata Miliani Martinez,&nbsp;André Rolim Baby,&nbsp;Mohammad Hossein Morowvat","doi":"10.1111/ics.13019","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13019","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Recently, microalgal biotechnology has attained great acceptance among various researchers and industries for the green and sustainable production of different bioactive compounds. They provide multiple metabolites and molecules, making them an ideal candidate for cosmetic formulators and cosmeceutical companies. Nevertheless, numerous microalgae strains have never been studied for their pharmaceutical, nutritional and cosmeceutical purposes. Even less, only some have been cultivated on a large scale for bioactive compound production. Here, we have studied the cosmetic and cosmeceutical potentials of different microalgal strains for sunscreen as adjuvants and boosters in a green, carbon-neutral and sustainable platform. Other bioactive compounds were exploited, and the available products in the market and the published patents were also reviewed. From our review, it will be possible to combine the fundamental and practical aspects of microalgal biotechnology toward a greener and more sustainable future for the cosmetic/cosmeceutical areas of the photoprotection scenario.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"213-222"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13019","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142286395","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Identification of a higher C–S lyase activity of Staphylococcus hominis in volunteers with unpleasant axillary odour","authors":"Christine Grimaldi,&nbsp;Sophie Gilardeau,&nbsp;Laurie Verzeaux,&nbsp;Océane Guedj,&nbsp;Stéphanie Richer,&nbsp;Aliette Laspoussas,&nbsp;Maud Le Guillou,&nbsp;Hélène Muchico,&nbsp;Elodie Aymard,&nbsp;Brigitte Closs","doi":"10.1111/ics.13024","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13024","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Excessive and unpleasant odours that emanate from the skin can induce bromhidrosis and substantially impair a person's quality of life. Enzymatic pathways generating unpleasant odours are well detailed, and among them, the C–S lyase is one of the enzymes involved in the conversion of non-volatile precursors into thiol-type malodorous volatile molecules such as 3M3SH. This study aimed to investigate the variation of axillary odour intensity correlated with <i>Staphylococcus</i> (<i>S</i>.) <i>hominis</i> C–S lyase activity within a group of volunteers after a physical activity.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>First, a group of 24 volunteers from the same ethnicity with standardized hygienic and alimentary practices participated in a supervised indoor cycling activity. Following this session, worn T-shirts were recovered to enable the olfactory evaluation of axillary odours by qualified experts. To go further, the microbiota from the axillary zone of each volunteer was sampled and the bacterial relative abundance was investigated by using 16S rRNA metasequencing. Then, <i>S</i>. <i>hominis</i> isolates were obtained by culturomics from these microbiota samples and the C–S lyase activity was measured by spectrofluorometry in protein crude extracts.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The evaluation of the odour intensity revealed that within the panel, two groups were significantly distinct. A non-odorous group and a malodorous one with volunteers having unpleasant odours. The 16S rRNA metasequencing reveals differences in bacterial communities between the two groups with a significant increase in the relative abundance of <i>S</i>. <i>hominis</i> in the malodorous group compared with the non-odorous one. The C–S lyase activities measured on <i>S</i>. <i>hominis</i> sampled on volunteers from the two groups demonstrate that for an equivalent quantity of protein, this enzymatic activity is significantly higher for the samples originating from the malodorous group.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Hence, this study demonstrates that beyond the increase of <i>S</i>. <i>hominis</i> relative abundance, the C–S lyase enzymatic activity of this bacteria is also higher in volunteers with unpleasant axillary odours.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"1088-1096"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142286394","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Development and characterization of topical formulation for maintenance therapy containing sorbitan monostearate with and without PEG-100-stearate","authors":"Hans Schoenfelder,&nbsp;Yvonne Wiedemann,&nbsp;Dominique Jasmin Lunter","doi":"10.1111/ics.13023","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13023","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Basic therapy is an integral part of the treatment of chronic skin diseases. However, the formulation of skin products should be analysed with respect to the physical stability and tolerance by the patients before applying them to diseased skin. In particular, the suitability of the formulation for use on damaged skin should be taken into consideration so that no exacerbation of the condition is caused.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The following approach investigated two formulations with the emulsifier sorbitan monostearate and one with the addition of polyethylene glycol 100 stearyl ether. The characterization included rheology, macroscopic and microscopic cream analysis compared to marketed products for basic therapy. Pyranine staining of stratum corneum (SC) and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed with ex vivo porcine SC to asses skin barrier function.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The rheological characterization showed a gel-like, viscoelastic behaviour of the formulations and a viscosity in the same order of magnitude as the marketed products. Staining with pyranine revealed that skin damage caused by sodium lauryl sulfate was compensated by treatment with the developed formulations. Following the same trend, TEWL results clearly showed decreasing values, which evidence improved skin barrier function.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In conclusion, the developed sorbitan monostearate formulations can potentially improve deficient skin barrier function as a part of basic therapy of skin diseases and act as a superior alternative to market products comprising a minimum of well-chosen ingredients.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"223-233"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13023","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142286393","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Thermoporometry measurements of human hair via differential scanning calorimetry","authors":"Taichi Habe,&nbsp;Shigeto Inoue,&nbsp;Steven Breakspear,&nbsp;Bernd Noecker,&nbsp;Crisan Popescu","doi":"10.1111/ics.13025","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13025","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Hair fibres possess an inherently porous structure, which is affected by physical and chemical agents from the environment, as well as those from cosmetic treatments. The present work aims to investigate the potential of a calorimetric method for evaluating the changes of hair porosity, in terms of pore size and size distribution.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The temperature of the phase transition from solid to liquid is known to be depressed if the liquid is confined within a pore. This shift in temperature can be measured by a calorimetric method like differential scanning calorimetry, DSC. This method is termed thermoporometry and it is the tool used for investigating hair porosity in this work.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Virgin and bleached hair fibres are measured by DSC and, by using the equations developed for water behaviour confined in pores of a solid, the size and size distribution of the hair pores are evaluated, and the influence of the cosmetic treatment on the pores is discussed.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Thermoporometry measurements of hair produced results in good agreement with those obtained by other methods for measuring hair porosity. The analysis of the data suggests that the fibre pores are mostly of a radius of 4 nm, and that the bleaching process increases the total volume of pores through the addition of smaller pores. A prolonged bleaching process appears to reduce the amount of fine pores produced by the first short process, resulting in fewer, but larger, cavities, most likely through a process of pore-merging.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"234-239"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142286396","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Application of the upcycling trend using ultrafiltrate of water from the production of collagen from fish skin in hair care cosmetics","authors":"Joanna Igielska-Kalwat,&nbsp;Ewa Kilian-Pięta,&nbsp;Maciej Siedlecki","doi":"10.1111/ics.13015","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13015","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The aim of the research problem of the article was to try to popularize the upcycling trend in the production of sustainable cosmetics and to confirm their effectiveness. The development of recycled raw materials is a new discovery in the chemical industry. Manufacturers emphasize the production of more environmentally friendly raw materials. Conscious consumers choose cosmetics whose production is based on sustainable development. Instead of throwing away waste from various industries, let us use it to produce active substances used in hair cosmetics. The production of the collagen series was created in accordance with the principles of upcycling, which involves obtaining collagen water, which is waste generated during the production of supplements. The main goal of the work was to learn cosmetic recipes for styling, washing and conditioning hair based on collagen waste, as well as to compare the results of people using the product in question. The aim of the study was also to demonstrate the effectiveness of the treatment in preventing split ends and hair breakage, usually caused by mechanical stress (brushing), as well as to confirm the effectiveness of other tests. The article presents procedures and parameters confirming the effectiveness of treatment with the tested hair products. The following tests were carried out: hair thickness and density, colour uniformity, shine factor and scalp hydration. All parameters numerically confirmed the beneficial effects of products containing collagen water used in hair care.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"190-204"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142223079","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The effect of degeneration of elastic fibres on loss of elasticity and wrinkle formation","authors":"Shinya Kondo,&nbsp;Naoko Ozawa,&nbsp;Tetsuhito Sakurai","doi":"10.1111/ics.13021","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13021","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Skin elasticity, which is vital for a youthful appearance, depends on the elastic fibres in the dermis. However, these fibres deteriorate with ageing, resulting in wrinkles and sagging. Changes that occur in the elastic fibres in living human skin and the relationship between elastic fibres and the state of the skin surface remain unclear. Therefore, it is necessary to verify the relationship between elastic fibres and skin elasticity. In this study, we investigated the association of the elastic fibre structure with skin elasticity and stratum corneum protein content in living human skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Thirty-five female volunteers aged 25–66 years were included in this study. Elastic fibres were observed using a multiphoton scanning laser biomicroscope. Skin elasticity was measured using a Cutometer, and stratum corneum proteins (Heat-shock protein 27 [HSP27] and galectin-7 [Gal-7]) in tape-stripped samples were analysed using an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Elastic fibres exhibited increased curvature and thickness with increased age, with fragmentation observed in women aged &gt;60 years. Elastin scores, which reflect thinness and curvature, were negatively correlated with age, whereas they were positively correlated with R7 elasticity (recovery ability). In individuals aged 20–30 years, higher levels of inflammatory markers (HSP27 and Gal-7) correlated with lower elastin scores; however, this trend was not observed in older participants.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Elastic fibre deterioration worsened after 40 years of age, and this effect correlated with reduced skin recovery and increased wrinkles. In younger individuals, inflammatory markers affected elastic fibres. These findings can guide anti-ageing strategies that focus on elastic fibre preservation and inflammation control.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 1","pages":"205-212"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-09-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142223078","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}