International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Scalp microbiome composition changes and pathway evaluations due to effective treatment with Piroctone Olamine shampoo","authors":"Ping Hu,&nbsp;Jim Henry,&nbsp;Jay P. Tiesman,&nbsp;Mirjana Parlov,&nbsp;Rob Bacon,&nbsp;Duane Charbonneau,&nbsp;Arvind Venkataraman,&nbsp;Kathryn C. S. Locker,&nbsp;Holly Krigbaum,&nbsp;Jim Schwartz","doi":"10.1111/ics.12933","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12933","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To characterize the scalp microbial composition, function, and connection to dandruff severity using a metagenomics approach and to understand the impact of a Piroctone Olamine containing anti-dandruff shampoo on the scalp microbiome.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Shotgun metagenomics was used to characterize the composition of the scalp microbiomes from 94 subjects with and without clinically defined dandruff. Furthermore, the microbiome of the scalps of 100 dandruff sufferers before and after 3 weeks of treatment with either control or anti-dandruff shampoo containing 0.5% Piroctone Olamine (PO) was characterized and compared to identify microorganisms associated with the dandruff condition and the associated pathways and processes that may contribute to PO's effect on scalp microbiome.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A higher relative abundance of <i>Malassezia restricta</i> and <i>Staphylococcus capitis</i> and a lower abundance of <i>Cutibacterium acnes</i> were associated with the dandruff scalps relative to the no-dandruff scalps. A 3-week PO shampoo treatment reduced the relative abundance of <i>Malassezia</i> species and <i>Staphylococcus capitis</i> and increased the relative abundance of <i>Cutibacterium acnes</i>. This change to the scalp microbiome composition is consistent with a return to a healthy no-dandruff microbiome and improved clinical signs and symptoms as measured by adherent scalp flaking score (ASFS) compared with the control shampoo. Functional genomics analysis showed that the PO shampoo treatment reduced oxidative stress-associated genes and decreased the abundance of protease, urease, and lipase genes. These changes correlated positively to improvements in dandruff severity. PO treatment favourably shifted scalp microbiomes in dandruff subjects toward the no-dandruff state.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Our results suggest that part of the aetiology of dandruff can be attributed to dysbiosis of the scalp microbiome. PO treatment can restore a healthier microbiome, reducing oxidative stress and promoting better scalp health.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"333-347"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139402789","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Safety-in-use test of facial cosmetic products on normal and self-assessed sensitive skin subjects","authors":"Yuan Gao,&nbsp;Petra S. Kern,&nbsp;Deborah Schoborg,&nbsp;J. F. Nash,&nbsp;Swatee Dey","doi":"10.1111/ics.12938","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12938","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Safety-in-use (SIU) studies are commonly used by the cosmetic Industry to confirm the skin and ocular compatibility of cosmetic products under realistic in–use conditions. There are only limited case studies published about the design, outcome and interpretation of product SIU studies.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A series of SIU case studies is presented to demonstrate the considerations in study design and how the methodology can help in supporting skin and ocular safety profile of facial cosmetic products within a population of different ethnicities with normal and self-perceived sensitive skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Subjects/Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In a series of four single-blinded SIU studies, more than 250 female study subjects of different ethnicities and with normal and self-assessed sensitive skin were asked to use different facial cosmetic products including lotions, essences and cleansers according to the instructed usage conditions of these products. Each study was specifically designed according to product usage scenarios and target consumer groups. The primary measures of safety were based on dermal evaluations by a dermatologist for erythema and dryness/scaling and by an ophthalmologist for any visible signs of an ocular condition on eyelids, conjunctivae and cornea. The study subjects were also asked for any self-perceived skin or eye reactions. Dermal and ocular irritation potential of the products under realistic product usage conditions was evaluated according to the measures.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Across all studies, objectively and self-assessed mean scores for skin and eye effects did not indicate any cumulative response of the investigated products over the study period.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>As a suitable tool for assessing and establishing the skin and eye compatibility of facial cosmetic products, SIU studies can be designed according to specific consumer groups, skin types and product usage scenarios to better predict realistic in-use conditions. It can demonstrate the safe use of the investigated products for people of different ethnicities, skin types and with normal or self-assessed sensitive skin, single product use or regimen use. The test results are consistent with the inherently low irritation potential of the products.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"391-402"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-01-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139402775","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A modified protocol for studying filaggrin degradation using a reconstructed human epidermis model under low and high humidity","authors":"Qilong Chen,&nbsp;Ning Wei,&nbsp;Yina Lu","doi":"10.1111/ics.12937","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12937","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Filaggrin (FLG) is an essential protein that plays a vital role in maintaining skin barrier function and moisture levels, allowing the skin to adapt to dry environments. However, the precise temporal dynamics of FLG metabolism in the human epidermis remain poorly understood, and suitable tools to study these time-dependent effects are currently lacking.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To investigate the molecular mechanisms and time course of FLG metabolism and skin barrier function under high- and low-humidity conditions, utilizing a reconstructed epidermis model.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>EpiSkin specimens cultured under humid or dry conditions for varying durations (2–48 h) were compared by assessing FLG degradation and skin barrier formation using immunofluorescence staining and western blotting.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Under conditions of low humidity, the proteolysis of FLG in EpiSkin increased between 4 and 12 h and was accompanied by elevated levels of cysteine–aspartic protease (caspase)-14. The expression of peptidyl arginine deiminase 1 and calpain 1 also increased at 4 h. However, after 24 h, the expression of these three FLG-degrading proteins significantly decreased. Conversely, the levels of pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and urocanic acid initially decreased at 2 h and then increased between 12 and 24 h. Additionally, the expression of skin barrier proteins, such as FLG, transglutaminase 5, loricrin and zonula occludens-1, decreased starting from 12 h. Notably, epidermal cell viability and activity were also inhibited.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We propose a reliable and ethical model to study the temporal dynamics of FLG metabolism and its role in skin barrier function. Using a commercially reconstructed epidermis to mimic dry skin formation obviates the need for animal and human testing.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"380-390"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138829612","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"","authors":"","doi":"10.1111/ics.12921","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12921","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"45 S2","pages":"1-61"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12921","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138578199","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"In vitro diffusion of plant phenolics through the skin: A review update","authors":"Gisláine C. Silva,&nbsp;Rodney A. F. Rodrigues,&nbsp;Carla B. G. Bottoli","doi":"10.1111/ics.12927","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12927","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Excessive skin exposure to deleterious environmental variables results in inflammation as well as molecular and cellular impairments that compromise its functionality, aesthetic qualities, and overall well-being. The implementation of topical administration of antioxidants and other compounds as a method for preventing or reversing damage is a rational approach. Numerous phenolic compounds derived from plants have demonstrated capabilities such as scavenging free radicals and promoting tissue healing. However, the primary obstacle lies in effectively delivering these compounds to the specific place on the skin, and accurately forecasting their diffusion through the skin can assist in determining the most effective tactics. Hence, this article provides a comprehensive analysis of recent literature pertaining to the in vitro skin diffusion characteristics of plant phenolics. The aim is to gain a deeper understanding of their behaviour when present in various forms such as solutions, suspensions, and formulations.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Method</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The data on plant extracts and isolated plant phenolic compounds in vitro skin diffusion assays published over the last six years were compiled and discussed.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Even though the gold standard Franz diffusion cell is the most commonly used in the assessment of in vitro plant phenolic skin diffusion profiles, a plethora of skin models and assay conditions are reported for a variety of compounds and extracts in different vehicles.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The presence of numerous models and vehicles poses a challenge in creating correlations among the existing data on plant phenolic compounds. However, it is possible to draw some general conclusions regarding molecular, vehicle, and skin characteristics based on the gathered information.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 2","pages":"239-261"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138629768","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Age-related hair denaturation related to protein carbonyls","authors":"Naoya Fuse,&nbsp;Shigeaki Morita,&nbsp;Yukako Matsue","doi":"10.1111/ics.12934","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12934","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Hair ageing is accompanied by hair fibres becoming irregularly shaped causing them to stick out in irregular directions or have more curliness and being spread out. This is believed to be due to changes within the hair fibre structure which occur with ageing, and one of the causes of these changes could be an increase in the number of protein carbonyl groups present in the hair. The aim of this study is to investigate the internal denaturation of hair related to protein carbonyls in attempt to gain new insight into age-related changes that occur in hair.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The degree of carbonylation of the hair structural protein as determined by fluorescent labelling and Western blotting analysis was used to investigate the primary structure of hair protein. The amount of helix, a common conformation in the secondary structure of proteins, in hair in groups of women with different ages was also analysed using infrared microscopy coupled with multivariate curve resolution (MCR). From the results of this, an image of the two-dimensional distribution of the α-helices was generated for the hair taken from each age group. Also, high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HPDSC) of the hair in water was performed on the hair taken from each age group to determine the peak temperature of endothermic effect and the enthalpy of denaturation.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We found that the amino group content in hair proteins decreased and Type II keratin, one of the subunits of intermediate filament, was more carbonylated with age. The results of the MCR indicated eight separate components, including components of the secondary structure of proteins, such as α helices and β sheets. Two-dimensional images of the hair cross-sections revealed that the presence of α helices decreased with age. In addition, data from the HPDSC showed that the enthalpy associated with the denaturing temperature also significantly decreased with age.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>These results suggest that there is a negative correlation between age and structural integrity of the helix segment in intermediate filament. The results of this study also show that there is a positive correlation between age-related hair denaturation and protein carbonyls.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"348-356"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138630019","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A study of anti-wrinkle functions and improvement of cream with Phaseolus angularis","authors":"Sarang Oh,&nbsp;Jeehaeng Jeong,&nbsp;Myeongju Kim,&nbsp;Xiangji Jin,&nbsp;Shengdao Zheng,&nbsp;Yong-Min Kim,&nbsp;Tae-Hoo Yi","doi":"10.1111/ics.12932","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12932","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that <i>Phaseolus angularis</i> seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 2","pages":"318-332"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12932","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138630220","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Investigation of piroctone olamine delivery to the skin from single, binary and ternary solvent systems","authors":"Chun Fung Tang,&nbsp;Paul D. A. Pudney,&nbsp;Majella E. Lane","doi":"10.1111/ics.12935","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12935","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Disruption of the protective stratum corneum barrier increases the skin's vulnerability to microorganisms and facilitates conditions such as dandruff. Dandruff is a disorder of the scalp that causes increased scaling of the SC and is associated with Malassezia fungus. Consequently, many anti-dandruff commercial products use anti-fungal active ingredients such as piroctone olamine also known as Octopirox (OPX). OPX is an active ingredient used in a number of topical preparations for the management of dandruff. The characterization of the physicochemical properties of OPX was previously reported. The aim of the present work was to investigate a range of solvent systems for their effects on OPX interaction with human skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The solvents used in this study were propylene glycol (PG), diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or Transcutol® (TC), PG monolaurate (PGML), isopropyl myristate (IPM), caprylic/capric triglyceride or Labrafac™ Lipophile WL 1349 (LAB), PG caprylate or Capryol® 90 (CAP), isostearyl isostearate (ISIS) and Plurol® Oleique CC 497 (PIOI). The single solvent systems evaluated were PG, TC, PGML, IPM, ISIS and CAP. For the binary solvent systems, PG and TC were examined. Ternary solvent systems consisted of: PG, TC and LAB; PG, PGML and LAB; and PG, TC and IPM. The concentration of OPX used was 1% (w/v). Heat-separated human epidermis was used for 24 h permeation experiments performed under finite dose conditions; mass balance studies were also conducted.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>For the six single solvents examined no permeation was evident. Skin permeation of OPX was observed for binary and ternary solvent systems. The highest permeation for all PG:TC binary solvent system ratios tested was from the PG:TC (75:25) system. For the ternary solvent systems investigated, highest cumulative permeation of OPX was observed for PG:PGML:LAB (60:30:10). Considering all systems, PG:TC (75:25) delivered the greatest amount of OPX through the skin. Although OPX is deposited in the skin following the application of neat solvents, higher skin retention values were generally observed for binary and ternary systems.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To our knowledge, this is the first study to examine the permeation behaviour of OPX for a range of single, binary and ternary solvent systems.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"357-367"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-12-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12935","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138630211","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline – A potent skin anti-ageing active preventing advanced glycation end-product formation in vitro and ex vivo","authors":"Chiara Knoblich,&nbsp;Katja Dunckelmann,&nbsp;Andrea Krüger,&nbsp;Thomas Küper,&nbsp;Thomas Blatt,&nbsp;Julia M. Weise","doi":"10.1111/ics.12930","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12930","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Objective&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) represent a large group of compounds generated by a non-enzymatic reaction between reducing sugars and amino groups. The formation and accumulation of AGEs in the skin lead to protein crosslinking, dermal stiffening and yellowing, which ultimately contribute to cutaneous ageing. Amino acids have been described to exhibit anti-glycation effects. The objective of this study was to understand the inhibitory role of the amino acid derivative N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline (NAHP) as an anti-glycation active for human skin.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Methods&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;A cell-free assay investigating the inhibition of glycation of serum albumin by NAHP was used to determine the capability of NAHP to decrease AGE formation. Also, by assessing the amount of the AGE N-(carboxymethyl)lysine (CML) the anti-glycation abilities of NAHP were investigated utilizing dot blot analysis. The improvement of cell–matrix interaction by NAHP was determined in vitro using a glycated fibroblast-populated collagen lattice (FPCL) dermis model. In skin biopsies, AGE autofluorescence was determined after treatment with NAHP and/or glucose ex vivo.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Results&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;NAHP significantly and dose-dependently inhibited levels of AGEs, which were induced by the glycation of a protein solution. This decrease could be visualized by showing that the brownish appearance as well as the AGE-specific fluorescence of glucose-treated samples were reduced after the application of increasing amounts of NAHP. Also, CML formation was dose-dependently inhibited by NAHP. In FPCLs, the contractile capacity of fibroblasts was significantly disturbed after glycation. This could be prevented by the addition of NAHP. Compared to glyoxal-treated samples, the co-application of NAHP significantly decreased the diameter as well as the weight of glycated FPCLs. Ex vivo application of glucose to skin explants showed a higher AGE fluorescence signal compared to control explants. Co-treatment with NAHP and glucose decreased the level of AGE fluorescence in comparison to glucose-treated explants.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;These data provide clear evidence that under glycation stress conditions treatment with NAHP inhibited AGE formation in vitro and ex vivo and prevented the loss of cellular contractile forces in a glycated dermis model. Thus, NAHP obviously provides a beneficial treatment option to counteract AGE-related changes in human skin such as dermal stiffening and yellowish skin a","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 2","pages":"297-306"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-11-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12930","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"138444596","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex in reducing hair loss and improving hair growth in healthy women: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study","authors":"Stéphanie Dudonné,&nbsp;Catherine Kern,&nbsp;Christine Garcia","doi":"10.1111/ics.12929","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12929","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Hair loss is a major source of psychological distress for affected people. Safe and natural ingredients are therefore needed to help reduce hair loss and stimulate hair growth. This pilot clinical study aimed at exploring the efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex (WPLC, Ceramosides™), containing sphingolipids and digalactosyl diglycerides, on hair characteristics improvement in women showing acute hair shedding.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Sixty-six women presenting a proportion of hair in the telogen phase greater than 15% were recruited and allocated to two groups, each including at least 10 postmenopausal women. For 84 days, participants consumed 30 mg/day of the WPLC supplement, or the placebo. Their hair characteristics were assessed after 56 and 84 days using phototrichogram evaluations of hairs in anagen/telogen phases, measuring hair shedding by a pull test, hair diameter and elongation at break point, hair growth and scalp sebum content. Hair density and volume were also clinically evaluated. All these parameters were also investigated in the subgroup of postmenopausal women.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>WPLC supplementation decreased telogen hair density/proportion while increasing the anagen hair density/proportion. These effects were significant compared with the placebo as early as within 56 days. It also led to reduced hair shedding upon pull test analyses. If no changes were evidenced in hair diameter, WPLC improved hair growth and resistance to breakage after 84 days. Clinical evaluations also showed hair density and volume improvement. Furthermore, supplementation decreased scalp sebum content in women with oily hair. The beneficial effects were also observed in the subgroup of postmenopausal women. Finally, WPLC supplementation improved participants' perception of their hair conditions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Through a reducing effect on hair shedding and a stimulating effect on hair reappearance and growth, WPLC dietary supplementation was shown to significantly reduce hair loss in women.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 2","pages":"284-296"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2023-11-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12929","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"71481315","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}