International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"The ALT-SPF ring study—Correlation in silico versus in vivo SPF ISO24444 and in vitro UVA-PF ISO24443","authors":"Gernot Kunze,&nbsp;Myriam Sohn,&nbsp;Jochen Giesinger,&nbsp;Katja Quass,&nbsp;Yvonne Prigl,&nbsp;Caithlyn Schleiger,&nbsp;Alexander Schlifke,&nbsp;Waldemar Ens,&nbsp;Frauke Wilfert,&nbsp;Jürgen Vollhardt,&nbsp;Bertrand Colson,&nbsp;Bernd Herzog","doi":"10.1111/ics.13086","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13086","url":null,"abstract":"<p>This paper presents the results of the Alt-SPF consortium ring test, obtained by the in-silico methodology, and discusses these results in the context of existing standards. To evaluate the effectiveness of the in-silico methodology in correlating with these standards, a comparison was made between the in-silico sun protection factor (SPF) and the UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and the values derived by standard in vivo SPF (ISO24444) and in vitro UVA-PF (ISO24443). The model utilises the same algorithm as in vitro measurements of SPF and UVA-PF, with the measured UV transmission substituted by calculated transmission simulated through an applied sunscreen film. The in-silico approach necessitates quantitative UV absorbance data of all UV-filters, their photodegradation and photointeraction properties, oil/water phase synergies and a model describing the irregular distribution of the film thickness on the skin. The performance factors are calculated using an initial analytical evaluation of the 32 test formulations of the ring test, to ascertain the presence and concentration of individual UV absorbers. The filter concentrations obtained are then processed via computational analysis to calculate the SPF and UV-PF values. It has been demonstrated that, in accordance with defined statistical parameters to characterize the ability of a method to correlate with the in vivo SPF standard, the in-silico methodology is a highly reproducible and accurate tool for SPF prediction. The alignment with the lowest measured in vivo SPF values serves to ensure the safety of the end consumer and is not a weakness of the method. Additionally, it has been demonstrated that the methodology facilitates precise prediction of UVA protection in comparison to the in vitro standard ISO 24443. These calculations can be employed to engineer novel sunscreens, thereby diminishing the necessity for ethically questionable and extensive laboratory measurements. In case still in-vivo measurements are needed, the methodology can deliver the frequently required SPF/UVA-PF values and may also support functions such as those of responsible persons, including safety assessors, in their evaluations.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"78-95"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13086","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923421","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Sustainable cosmetic ingredient alternatives to replace conventional ingredients: Case studies in moisturizers and lipsticks.","authors":"Anna Spaulding, Gabriella Baki","doi":"10.1111/ics.70020","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70020","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Over the last two decades, consumers have been calling for greater transparency for ingredient sourcing and manufacturing practices; therefore, more sustainable alternatives need to be evaluated to meet industry demands. While many organizations give standards for 'clean', 'organic' and 'natural' cosmetic products, sustainable formulations lack standardization and harmonization globally. This study aimed to formulate sustainable lipsticks and moisturizers using resources and standards currently available in the cosmetic industry and compare select sustainable alternatives to a conventional control product.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>After thoroughly screening ingredients for each product type, five different lipsticks and five batches of moisturizers were formulated and tested for quality, performance and stability characteristics.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Pay-off and friction were the most different among the lipsticks, with M4, the lipstick containing sustainable ingredients, having the highest average friction and pay-off at Week 1. As for the moisturizers, spreadability had the largest differences, mostly due to the different emulsifier systems, as expected.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Incorporating sustainable ingredients can be challenging, but having quality products while being more environmentally friendly is possible. These case studies are meant to serve as examples for formulation chemists.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-08-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144873082","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Evaluation of the sensitive skin syndrome and the effect of a dermo-cosmetic treatment in Thai and Polish subjects.","authors":"Helena Polena, Sylwia Czaińska, Benoît Cadars, Ewa Chlebus, Monika Serafin, Waranya Boonchai, Pichanee Chaweekulrat, Silada Kanokrungsee, Marlène Chavagnac-Bonneville, Christelle Graizeau, Michèle Sayag, Elodie Prestat-Marquis","doi":"10.1111/ics.70017","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70017","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Sensitive skin syndrome (SSS) affects individuals from all ethnic groups. However, studies across different populations remain limited, despite recognised differences between populations. Thus, we examined SSS in Thai and Polish subjects, assessing the tolerance and efficacy of a dermo-cosmetic product in both populations.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Thai participants were involved in a 28-day open-label study, while Polish subjects took part in a 56-day double-blind, randomised study comparing the product with a control cream. Clinical and functional signs were evaluated, alongside quality of life (QoL) using the Burden of Sensitive Skin (BoSS) questionnaire.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>The product was well tolerated in both groups over time, leading to significant improvements in all clinical and functional signs (p < 0.05 to p < 0.001) and enhancing QoL (p < 0.005 in Thailand; p < 0.001 in Poland). At baseline, Polish subjects exhibited greater redness and higher BoSS scores to questions relating to visual signs (p < 0.001). Conversely, Thai participants reported more pronounced tingling, pain and itching, along with higher BoSS scores relating to sensory symptoms (p < 0.001).</p><p><strong>Conclusions: </strong>The study highlights differences existing in the perception of SSS symptoms between a Thai and Polish population and demonstrates that the dermo-cosmetic cream effectively alleviates SSS symptoms and improves QoL in both ethnic groups.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-08-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144873081","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"In-vivo pilot study to assess a new plant-based cosmetic formulation containing Ziziphus joazeiro bark extract and Apium graveolens seed extract for the improvement of dandruff while enhancing scalp microbiome balance and barrier function in subjects with oily to dry sensitive scalps.","authors":"Phil Barry, Jun Ning Teo, Jing Jing Guo, Peter Engels, Katharina Droste, Annika Kathrin Michaelis, Werner Voss","doi":"10.1111/ics.70011","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70011","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Dandruff is one of the most common dermatological conditions, which occurs in about 50% of human individuals confined only to the scalp. Microbiome studies indicate a bacterial and fungal microbiota shift compared to a healthy scalp. While antifungal treatments are effective in improving clinical signs and symptoms of scalp dandruff, maintaining a healthy scalp microbiome balance is also crucial for long-term scalp health. The objective of this study was to investigate whether a novel plant-based formula containing Ziziphus joazeiro bark extract and Apium graveolens seed extract is capable of reducing mild-to-moderate dandruff symptoms and restoring the scalp skin barrier function and its impact on the microbiota balance after a 4-week application period.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>An open-label, single-centre study was performed including 40 subjects with mild-to-moderate dandruff with either oily or dry sensitive scalp. Subjects were treated for 4 weeks with a novel plant-based shampoo to demonstrate the efficacy in reduction of dandruff (scaling) and redness and stabilization of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Dermatological measurements were performed as well as a scalp microbiome analysis of 20 subjects with a focus on alpha and beta diversity and abundance of core microbiota. The analysis was performed on swab samples taken prior to and 28 days after application of the product of interest.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Clinical data revealed that the new plant-based shampoo was well tolerated. TEWL analysis showed a highly significant improvement (-18.60%, p = 0.00035). With respect to redness (-22.8%, p = 0.00127) and dandruff reduction (scaling, -29.23%, p = 0.000001), a significant improvement in the analysed parameters was also determined. Microbiome analysis revealed no significant changes in alpha or beta diversity, suggesting that the product has no negative impact on microbial diversity or affecting the overall structure of microbial communities within individuals. Interestingly, fungal species seem not to be involved in dandruff development within the analysed cohort. The key finding was a significant median increase in the Cutibacterium/Staphylococcus ratio (+19.57%).</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>The study indicates that mild-to-moderate dandruff symptoms can successfully be reduced with the plant-based shampoo by restoring the bacterial scalp microbiome balance, suggesting a 'microbiome-friendly' formulation tolerated excellently for oily scalp and sensitive scalp.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144730326","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A novel approach to target skin photodamage: Topical application of salt inducible kinase inhibitors.","authors":"Inbal Rachmin, Béatrice Le Varlet, Claire Regazzetti, Thierry Passeron, Jinhua Wang, David E Fisher, Philippe Schaison, Braham Shroot","doi":"10.1111/ics.70003","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70003","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Background: </strong>Ultraviolet (UV) radiation accelerates skin damage and photoageing, leading to visible signs such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity and uneven pigmentation. UV radiation causes direct DNA damage, primarily through the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and 6-4 photoproducts (6-4PPs), which can lead to mutations and cellular dysfunction if not repaired. While natural defence mechanisms like melanin production and DNA repair pathways mitigate this damage, prolonged or excessive UV exposure can overwhelm these defences, resulting in cumulative skin damage. The melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) plays a key role in melanogenesis and also appears to play a role in DNA repair. Salt-inducible kinases (SIKs), critical enzymes in the MC1R pathway, are known to influence melanin production, but their role in DNA repair and photodamage remains unclear.</p><p><strong>Objective: </strong>This study investigated the role of SIK in DNA repair and photodamage, focusing on two novel cosmetic ingredients, SIK inhibitors, coded SLT-008 and SLT-001.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The inhibitory effects of the ingredients on SIK activity were measured using biochemical and cellular assays. Their safety profiles were evaluated through in vitro studies and clinical trials. To analyse their impact on UV-B-induced DNA damage and repair, both inhibitors were topically applied to skin extracts in an ex vivo model. Finally, clinical studies were conducted in healthy volunteers irradiated with UV-R. Efficacy was determined by measuring CPD levels, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), expression and erythema formation following UV exposure.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Both ingredients effectively inhibited SIK activity and demonstrated good safety profiles. Ex vivo experiments revealed that immediate post-UV-B application of both ingredients significantly reduced UV-B-induced DNA damage, as shown by decreased CPDs, and promoted tissue repair. Additionally, both inhibitors suppressed MMP-1 expression, an enzyme that plays a key role in the breakdown of collagen, thereby accelerating photoageing. These findings were confirmed in the clinical study, which demonstrated that topically applied SLT-001 enhanced DNA repair, reduced MMP-1 expression and decreased erythema formation.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Here we described the comprehensive role of SIK inhibition in DNA and dermal repair. This highlights its crucial role in protecting skin against UV-induced photodamage and offering broad protection against actinic ageing.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144707420","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Application of single hair fibre tensile measurements to create an industry-standard heat damage scale for hair.","authors":"Neil Shaw, Michela Buscemi, Dajana Gubala, Juliet Scott-Pritchard, Charles Stanton-Stock, Peter Bailey","doi":"10.1111/ics.13084","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13084","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>The use of heat styling appliances is a rapidly growing segment within the hair care market. However, despite significant levels of academic investigation into the impact of high temperature on the structure and mechanical properties of the hair fibre, the industry does not yet have a standardized method of heat damage measurement to enable consumers and independent evaluation laboratories to objectively compare the performance of different heat styling tools. We discuss the available experimental methods to support such a standardized method and conclude that the well-established approach of measuring single-fibre tensile strength provides the best option. We then explore the sensitivity to heat damage of the various wet and dry single-fibre tensile parameters in order to identify the optimal combination for inclusion in our hair damage metric. Using the selected combination of 8 different wet single-fibre tensile strength parameters, we now propose a robust, reproducible and consumer-relevant 6-point heat damage scale. We demonstrate the relevance of the new damage scale to a range of on-market heated hair straighteners and explore the human perception of hair treated with heated straighteners delivering different damage levels according to the new scale. Based on this, we show a good correlation between the technical damage scale and the human perception of damage on hair tresses.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144707421","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Galactomyces ferment filtrate upregulates anchoring junctions and stabilizes actin to maintain the Young's modulus of skin cells in vitro.","authors":"Steph Crabtree, Bradley B Jarrold, Olivia Kent, Matthew C Ehrman, Timothy J Hawkins, Viktor Korolchuk, Camila Pereira Braga, John M Snowball, Makio Tamura, Tomohiro Hakozaki, Akira Matsubara, John E Oblong, Max Brown","doi":"10.1111/ics.70009","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70009","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Skin is exposed to multiple external factors such as solar radiation and environmental oxidative stressors. Ageing and the accumulation of stress damage lead to reduced skin health and loss of skin firmness, which contribute to wrinkling and sagging. We investigated if Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF) could modulate skin cell mechanical properties through changes to the actin cytoskeleton and anchoring junctions.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Proteomic analysis was performed to identify age-associated changes in cellular components in skin biopsies and GFF-mediated changes in full thickness 3D skin equivalent models. Nanoindentation was used to measure the Young's modulus (resistance to elastic deformation) of keratinocyte cells under Latrunculin B (LatB)-induced destabilization of the actin cytoskeleton. Immunofluorescence and confocal microscopy were performed on skin equivalents to validate the GFF-induced changes observed in proteomic analysis and identify expression profiles of key structural proteins within the skin.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Aged skin had decreased expression of internal cellular components 'actin cytoskeleton' and 'focal adhesion'. Destabilization of actin cytoskeleton by LatB significantly reduced the Young's modulus of keratinocyte cells. Pre-treatment of keratinocytes with GFF was able to prevent LatB-induced decline of skin cell mechanical properties. Proteomic analysis of full thickness 3D skin equivalent models revealed that GFF increased the expression of 'actin cytoskeleton' and 'anchoring junctions', especially the actin-binding focal adhesion proteins. Immunofluorescence staining confirmed that GFF upregulated expression of the actin stabilizer, calponin 2 and integrin α2 in basal keratinocytes. GFF increased integrin localisation to the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) and colocalised with collagen IV in vitro, suggesting increased linkage between the epidermis and dermis.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Our data establish the actin cytoskeleton and anchoring junctions which bind it as important cellular structures which decline with age. We also identified that the cellular structures are required for the maintenance of keratinocyte Young's modulus, which could be an important property impacting skin firmness. Furthermore, we have identified that GFF promotes actin stability and builds a rigid holding structure of the anchoring junctions to increase cell-cell and epidermis-dermis anchoring in skin equivalent models. Therefore, GFF has the potential to help maintain and restore skin firmness in young and old skin, respectively.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144707422","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Photostability and phototoxicity studies of a promising UVA filter for sunscreens: 1-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione.","authors":"Yanina Susana Minaberry, Gabriel Sagrera, Mora Reneé García, María Laura Gutiérrez, Federico Eugenio Svarc","doi":"10.1111/ics.70012","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70012","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>A few years ago, the 2-hydroxy-4´-methoxy dibenzoylmethane (DBM11) molecule was synthesized and studied as a replacement for avobenzone (AVB, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) because of the latter's instability under UVA radiation. These studies, conducted in absolute ethanol with an estimated UV irradiance of 8,56 mW/cm², demonstrated almost zero decomposition of DBM11. Thus, it is a promising candidate for use as a UVA chemical filter. However, further studies must be conducted to verify its photostability once formulated into an emulsion and to establish its toxicological profile. The first aim of this work was to scale up the synthesis of DBM11 to allow its formulation into an emulsion, which is required for the evaluation of its photostability under standardized UV irradiation conditions (close to ISO 24443), as required for sunscreen testing in the cosmetic industry. Additionally, in vitro phototoxicity assessments were conducted, with slight modifications to improve reproducibility, in accordance with OECD guidelines. These results demonstrate that DBM11 exhibits promising photostability and a favourable toxicological profile, making it a potential candidate for use as a UVA filter.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144707423","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A colloidal oat-containing baby wash is gentle and effective for atopic-prone skin.","authors":"M Catherine Mack, Gabriella John, Diana Friscia, Christine Perna, Denise Bion, Melody Ailsworth, Kappa Peddy, Neena K Tierney","doi":"10.1111/ics.70010","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70010","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Despite accumulating data supporting the effectiveness of colloidal oatmeal-based moisturizers in improving mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis (AD), evidence in paediatric populations is limited. This study evaluated the tolerability and effectiveness of a colloidal oatmeal-containing baby wash formulation in babies prone to AD, based on clinical and parental assessments.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>In this 4-week, single-centre, nonrandomized study of babies (3-36 months) prone to AD (per an AD-prone skin recruiting questionnaire developed in-house), parents/legal guardians used the baby wash on their babies ≥3 times per week (no more than once daily), each bath lasting ≤20 min. The overall skin condition (scored from 0/excellent to 3/poor) and cutaneous tolerance scoring of dryness, redness/erythema, rash/irritation and tactile roughness on the baby's face, arms, legs and torso (each scored from 0/none to 3/severe) were assessed clinically at baseline, Week 1 and Week 4. Cutaneous tolerance scoring of burning/stinging and itching on those body sites was evaluated by the parent per the latter scale at all visits. At study end, the parental questionnaire evaluated the level of agreement/disagreement with statements regarding the baby wash. Safety measures included adverse events and changes in health (per the parents or clinicians).</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Of 29 infant-parent pairs enrolled, 24 (82.8%) completed the study. All 24 babies were White/Caucasian; 13 (54.2%) were male. The overall skin condition mean score showed no statistically significant change from baseline (0.54) at Weeks 1 (0.33) and 4 (0.29). Per the investigator-rated cutaneous tolerance scores, >87% of body sites exhibited no dryness, redness/erythema, rash/irritation or tactile roughness at Week 4. For each parameter, significant improvements from baseline were observed at Week 4 for the combined skin sites (p < 0.05). Per the parent-rated cutaneous tolerance scores, nearly all sites had no burning/stinging or itching at Week 4. Itching for the combined sites demonstrated significant improvements from baseline at Week 4 (p < 0.05). The parental questionnaire revealed statistically significantly more favourable experiences with the baby wash than unfavourable experiences. Four babies experienced five mild, treatment-unrelated adverse events.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>The study findings indicate that the colloidal oatmeal-containing baby wash was well tolerated and effective when used in babies with AD-prone skin.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144707419","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"PEG-23 glyceryl distearate, a multifunctional skin-supporting material, upregulates the expression of factors associated with epidermal barrier and hydration.","authors":"Tatsuro Miyoshi, Brian C Keller, Sui Nakagawa, Takashi Ashino, Satoshi Numazawa","doi":"10.1111/ics.70005","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70005","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>As the outermost organ of the human body, the skin plays a critical role in protecting against external agents and oxidative stress, as well as in preventing excessive water loss. Among its layers, the stratum corneum of the epidermis is central to both barrier function and moisture retention, with its structural integrity significantly influencing skin health and appearance. Polyethylene glycol-23 glyceryl distearate (GDS-23) can form niosomes, liposome-like structures with multiple layers and serve as a carrier in drug delivery systems (DDS). We previously reported that GDS-23 exerts multiple biological effects, suppressing inflammation and enhancing the endogenous antioxidant system via Nrf2 activation through phosphorylation of the autophagy adaptor protein p62. In this study, we investigated the effects of GDS-23 on epidermal barrier function and moisture retention using normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) and a three-dimensional (3D) epidermal model, mimicking human skin structure.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>NHEKs and the 3D epidermal model were treated with GDS-23. Gene expression in NHEKs was analysed using real-time polymerase chain reaction, while the levels of epidermal barrier- and moisture retention-related factors in the 3D model were evaluated using immunofluorescence staining.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Treatment with GDS-23 upregulated the mRNA expression of genes involved in stratum cornea formation (filaggrin and loricrin), moisture retention (aquaporin 3 and hyaluronan synthase 3) and intercellular lipid synthesis (ceramide synthase, sulfotransferase 2B1 and peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α) in NHEKs. Additionally, treatment with K67, which inhibits p62 phosphorylation and thereby suppresses Nrf2 activation via a non-canonical mechanism, suppressed the GDS-23-induced expression of filaggrin, loricrin, ceramide synthase, sulfotransferase 2B1 and aquaporin 3. In the 3D epidermal model, GDS-23 treatment upregulated the expression of Nrf2, downstream antioxidant factors and proteins involved in stratum corneum formation and moisture regulation. Mechanistically, GDS-23 enhanced endogenous antioxidant function and modulated the expression of molecular markers associated with epidermal barrier and moisture retention, thereby potentially contributing to skin homeostasis.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>As GDS-23 contributes to the maintenance of skin homeostasis, it is expected to have future applications in the cosmetic field and in the treatment of skin disorders. Overall, GDS-23 holds promise as a \"multifunctional DDS material\" that promotes skin health.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-07-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144600332","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}