International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Efficacy of a topical live probiotic in improving skin health.","authors":"Rohit Jain, Abigail L Voss, Jessica Del Rosario, John D F Hale","doi":"10.1111/ics.13043","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13043","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Introduction: </strong>Micrococcus luteus is a commensal bacterial member of the human skin and is essential in keeping the balance among the various microbial flora of the skin. M. luteus strain Q24 or BLIS Q24™ was isolated from the skin of a healthy human adult and is known to produce a unique antimicrobial spectrum that is inhibitory towards pathogens associated with skin diseases. It has been developed as a probiotic with potential applications in improving overall skin health.</p><p><strong>Objective: </strong>This study aimed to evaluate the perceived changes in skin quality following topical application of a formulation containing skin commensal probiotic BLIS Q24™.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>A 28-day study involving 96 participants with self-reported normal skin with occasional blemishes or breakouts, topically applied a serum formulation containing BLIS Q24™ to the face. Participants quantitatively evaluated the probiotic serum effect on their skin at baseline Day 0 and then again on Day 10, 20 and 28 of the application. In addition, participants maintained a photo diary to record the perceived changes to their skin.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>A total of 96 participants completed this research. In comparison to the baseline (Day 0), within 10 days, a significant reduction in blackheads (48%), oiliness (48%), blemishes (57%), dry areas (23%), redness/rosacea (45%) and flaky and rough skin (38%) were reported. The probiotic serum was also effective in a significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles (38%), whiteheads (41%), pimples (55%), age spots (29%), and acne (21%) by the end of 28 days of probiotic application. Overall, there's agreement that probiotic serum delivers or exceeds consumer expectations from the concept and performs just as well, or better, than their regular moisturizer.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>An approach of delivering a live probiotic packaged in an innovative formula to improve several skin conditions in otherwise healthy individuals was found to be successful. This study highlights that a serum formulation containing BLIS Q24™ has a positive impact on skin health. It is effective topically in reducing the appearance of skin blemishes, oiliness, wrinkles, redness, and dryness. BLIS Q24™ offers the potential for preventing skin health-related issues and routine maintenance of skin microbiome for healthy skin.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143004988","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Clear scalp, clear mind: Examining the beneficial impact of dandruff reduction on physical, emotional and social wellbeing.","authors":"A Newton-Fenner, H Roberts, M Scott, T Jones, L Collins, A Godbehere, T Giesbrecht","doi":"10.1111/ics.13041","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13041","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Dandruff is a common scalp condition characterized by the chronic shedding of large clumps of epidermal cells. Alongside negative physical symptoms, dandruff is thought to have a detrimental impact on individuals' mental health. The aim of this study was to determine whether the clinical benefits of using an anti-dandruff shampoo (ADS) will result in improved psychological wellbeing in individuals suffering from dandruff. Further, this study aimed to investigate whether this improvement would manifest in changes in self-esteem and confidence behaviours.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>A 4-week dandruff reduction intervention was implemented using a Piroctone Olamine ADS formulation. The control group continued to use their non-ADS. Self-evaluation metrics, including the Scalpdex, State Self-Esteem Scale and self-perceived hair and scalp characteristics questionnaires, were employed to measure changes in self-perceptions of hair and scalp health and psychological wellbeing. Following this analysis, the dataset was then combined with unpublished internal data of a similar intervention study using a Zinc Pyrithione ADS formulation. A mediation analysis was conducted on the combined data to examine the relationship between dandruff symptoms, emotions, and overall behavioural functioning.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>First, the ADS effectively reduced the clinical symptoms of dandruff. Second, Scalpdex scores indicated that the use of ADS, compared to non-ADS, lessened the adverse effects of dandruff on symptom perception and emotional distress. Third, the impact of dandruff on behavioural functioning diminished over time, and measures of confidence, scalp comfort and scalp health improved over time, irrespective of product type. Fourth, there was no change in measures of self-esteem for either shampoo. Subsequently, the mediation analysis revealed that across both studies, ADS treatment improved symptoms, emotional wellbeing, and functioning ratings on the Scalpdex questionnaire. Importantly, it also found that improvements in physical symptoms of dandruff improved behavioural functioning indirectly, via its mediating effect on scalp-related emotional wellbeing.</p><p><strong>Conclusions: </strong>This study demonstrated that reducing dandruff's physical symptoms directly enhanced emotional well-being related to scalp and hair, and indirectly improved overall daily functioning. These findings suggest that addressing dandruff symptoms not only increases physical comfort but also positively impacts individuals' mental and emotional health, and their ability to function in their daily lives.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143004977","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Anti-skin aging effects of Gosori liquor lees extract by regulating interactions between senescent fibroblasts and adipose-derived stem cells.","authors":"Jieun Woo, Hyanggi Ji, Kyungeun Jeon, Hongbae Kim, Sohyun Yoon, Yunhee Hwang, Eunae Cho, Deokhoon Park, Eunsun Jung","doi":"10.1111/ics.13046","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13046","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>When cellular ageing is accelerated by various extrinsic/endogenous stimuli, regenerative function deteriorates, and enriched secretomes, such as the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), contribute to chronic inflammation and cause matrix degeneration. SASPs from senescent fibroblasts exacerbate cellular senescence via autocrine signalling and also accelerate skin ageing through the induction of neighbouring cell senescence via paracrine signalling. The interaction between dermis fibroblasts and their neighbours, adipose-derived stem cells (ADSCs) in the hypodermis, which lies deep in the dermis, is a potential target for skin ageing. In this study, we observed that an extract of the lees of Gosori liquor (GLE), a traditional Korean liquor made by fermenting millet and rice, suppressed the senescence of fibroblasts, including SASP production, in a replicative senescent model. We further examined whether the anti-ageing effects of GLE on fibroblasts affected the cellular senescence of their surrounding cells, ADSCs. The results showed that senescence factors in ADSCs were suppressed by culture medium from senescent fibroblasts (SF-CM) treated with GLE compared to the SF-CM-only treated group. Furthermore, the regenerative ability of ADSCs was promoted in the GLE-treated SF-CM group. ADSC migration was stimulated by upregulating the levels of α-smooth muscle actin, collagen type I alpha 2, and vascular endothelial growth factor expression through the PI3K/AKT pathway. Those results indicate that GLE can exert regenerative ability by regulating fibroblasts, and adipocyte interactions, improving cellular senescence. We conducted a clinical trial of subjects over 45 years of age to confirm the anti-ageing effects of GLE in vivo and observed changes in ageing parameters, such as skin wrinkles and volume on the face (IRB No. DM-IRB-2023-809-01-T1). The results showed that GLE-containing cream was more effective in improving skin wrinkles, elasticity, density, thickness, and volume around sunken eyes after 4 weeks of use than placebo. In conclusion, GLE plays an important role in inhibiting the ageing transition to ADSCs by inhibiting the senescence of fibroblasts and can be a promising anti-ageing strategy.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143004882","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"In vivo efficacy of a stabilized Vitamin C-based serum at pH 6 on some ageing facial signs of women of different ages and phototypes.","authors":"Muriel Isoir-Ingrez, Anna Veriato, Sara Figueiredo, Céline Cornillon, Sandra Hassler, Pamella H Wang, Jean-Thierry Simonnet","doi":"10.1111/ics.13037","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13037","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>To assess, clinically and instrumentally, the efficacy of a stabilized 12% Vitamin C (VC)-based serum (pH 6) on skin photoageing of women of various age and phototype.</p><p><strong>Materials and methods: </strong>Eighty women, with Phototypes I to VI, of various age (45-70y) living in Mauritius, participated in an open, uncontrolled study. After a two-week period of washout, they applied the Vitamin C-based serum twice a day for 2 months onto their whole face as well as a hydrating cream every evening to ensure a comparable skin hydration level in all subjects. At set time intervals (D0, D immediate, D14, D28 and D56), a local dermatologist graded eight facial signs by visual or tactile assessments, using a 0-9 structured scale. At each time interval, the facial skin was imaged by standardized technique (Colorface™) and through echography (Dermascan™) to record its thickness and density. Skin elasticity was recorded by a the Cutometer® device under a controlled suctional stress. A questionnaire was filled out by all subjects recording their self-assessments of the serum's effects and several organoleptic properties.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Compared with the baseline values (D0), the skin of all subjects showed progressive and significant changes in glow, tone evenness, radiance, firmness, softness and smoothness, associated with a reduction in fine lines. Deep wrinkles, only observed on 26 subjects, were found to be reduced. Self-assessments corresponded well with both clinical and instrumental results and indicated excellent skin tolerance. Ultrasound recordings exhibited significantly thicker and denser skin at D56.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>If certain changes in some skin facial signs (skin tone and related items, firmness, sagging…) are linked to the high concentration of VC, a complementary impact of increased skin hydration remains possible due to the glycerol present in the serum and hydrating cream. These significant performance results in vivo showed that a very acidic medium (∼pH 3) is not a prerequisite to an efficient VC cosmetic formula, as has long been accepted in the cosmetics industry. Such a low pH can fragilize the skin equilibrium over time. As second originality, the studied formula seemed to fit all phototypes.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142948489","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Development and evaluation of a polymer material-based formulation for non-surgical nasolabial fold reduction.","authors":"Masayuki Iida, Yoko Hanada, Yukihiro Miyazaki, Ayumi Shimpo, Kazue Tsukahara, Tomoko Yasu, Kosuke Takeda, Yuko Nagai","doi":"10.1111/ics.13038","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13038","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Currently, nasolabial folds are mainly removed by invasive procedures, resulting in long-lasting changes, as non-surgical user-implementable alternatives are scarce and inefficient. For example, the use of coating films for this purpose has thus far faced substantial difficulties because such films should combine the antithetical properties of shrinkability and flexibility. Herein, we challenge this status quo by identifying a polymer that simultaneously exhibits shrinkability and flexibility and using this polymer to develop a cosmetic formulation for immediate and non-invasive nasolabial fold removal.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The developed formulation, namely a solution of norbornene/tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylnorbornene copolymer in disiloxane, was tested on a group of Japanese women using visual evaluation, three-dimensional shape analysis and ultrasonography. The polymer film obtained upon drying the formulation was subjected to shrinkage and flexibility tests, and its synchronization with the skin was examined using optical microscopy. The free volume of the polymer films was evaluated using positron annihilation measurements and molecular dynamics simulations.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Upon application, the liquid formulation rapidly dries to produce a skin-synchronized polymer film that exhibits significant drying-induced shrinkage without cracking, thereby exerting a lift-up effect and inducing changes in the internal skin structure to efficiently reduce the nasolabial fold, providing a feeling of rejuvenation. On average, the proposed treatment decreases the nasolabial fold depth by 1 mm, increases the opening angle of the nasolabial fold by 11.5° and reduces the hypodermis thickness by 0.2 mm.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Our results facilitate the development of cosmetic products targeting the nasolabial fold and inspire further research in this field.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142948488","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Clinical efficacy of OS-01 peptide formulation in reducing the signs of periorbital skin aging.","authors":"Alessandra Zonari, Lear E Brace, Fanghua Li, Nathaniel H O Harder, Claire Harker, Carolyn Jacob, Joely Kaufman, Suneel Chilukuri, Carolina R Oliveira, Mariana Boroni, Juliana L Carvalho","doi":"10.1111/ics.13042","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13042","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Background: </strong>The aging of the skin, particularly around the periorbital region, is a complex process characterized by the accumulation of senescent cells, decreased collagen production, and reduced skin elasticity, leading to visible signs such as fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging.</p><p><strong>Objective: </strong>This study investigates the efficacy of a novel topical formulation, OS-01 EYE, containing the senomorphic peptide, OS-01, along with other active ingredients, in improving the skin around the eyes.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>A 12-week clinical study was conducted with 22 participants who applied OS-01 EYE twice daily. Assessments included bioinstrumental measurements of skin hydration, barrier function, firmness, and elasticity, as well as expert photographs grading fine lines, wrinkles, under-eye puffiness, and dark circles.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>After 12 weeks of product use, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) decreased by 17.33%, hydration increased by 32.49%, skin firmness improved by 10.19%, and elasticity increased by 25.58%, compared to baseline, which was all statistically significant. Expert grading revealed a decrease in fine lines and wrinkles, under-eye puffiness, and dark circles over the study period. Furthermore, subjective assessments showed that 95.46% of participants reported improvements in overall appearance.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>The OS-01 EYE formulation was found to be safe and effective in mitigating the visible signs of aging in the periorbital region, making it a potent treatment option for enhancing periorbital skin health, function, and appearance.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142948446","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Internal structural changes in age-related curved hair due to cyclical extension: An IR spectroscopy study.","authors":"Naoya Fuse, Yukako Matsue, Shigeaki Morita","doi":"10.1111/ics.13040","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13040","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>This study aimed to identify structural changes in age-related curved hair (referred to as \"YUGAMI\" hair in Japanese) induced by cyclical extension using infrared (IR) spectroscopy coupled with chemometrics, such as multivariate curve resolution (MCR) and two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (2DCOS).</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>The hair fibres were stretched at a strain level of 0.3-N, and this operation was counted as one cycle and was repeated 500 cycles. Every 25 cycles, IR spectra were obtained using an attenuated total reflection IR (ATR-IR) microscope. The spectra were analysed by MCR to investigate the structural changes of keratin protein inside of the hair. 2DCOS was conducted to investigate the genesis pathway of SO₃H in the 1000-1150 cm^-1 range and the change in the secondary structure of keratin protein of hair in the 1600-1700 cm^-1 range.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>For age-related curved hair, 0.3-N strain levels increased the CH₂ and C=O signals after 125 cycles and the SO₃H signal after 225 cycles, but no architectural modifications were observed in straight hair. Two results were obtained from 2DCOS. One was cyclical extension increased the S-SO₃H signal, followed by SO₃H signal. The other in the 1600-1700 cm^-1 range indicated an increase in the secondary structural motif and β-structure after the formation of SO₃H.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>This study shows that the process of internal transformations can be split into three steps in age-related curved hair caused by cyclical extension. The first step is the surface transfer of internal lipids, and the second step is two distinct patterns of disulfide bond cleavage: C-S and S-S fission. The final step is further transformation of the unravelled α-helices into β-structures which occurs above roughly 225 stretched. Our findings can be an effective factor in care the increase of curvature by cyclical extension such as everyday grooming.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142948462","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Reinforcing chemically treated human hair with citric acid.","authors":"Daijiazi Zhang, Nawel Baghdadli, Andrew J Greaves","doi":"10.1111/ics.13039","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13039","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>The objective of this work was to conduct a systematic study to evaluate the performance of citric acid (CA), an example of a commonly used organic acid in hair cosmetics, on different types of chemically treated hair and to better understand how CA works.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Consumer-centric routines were used to prepare the chemically treated hair, namely high-lift bleached, middle-lift bleached, permanently coloured and a combination of permed and coloured hair. Hair was subsequently treated with CA and hair reinforcement was investigated by physical techniques: High Pressure Differential Scanning Calorimetry (HPDSC), Miniature Tensile Test (MTT), Cyclic Fatigue Tensile Test (CFTT) & Micro X-ray Diffraction (μXRD) as well as chemical analysis (elemental, amino acids).</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>CA treatment demonstrably enhances the structural integrity of chemically treated hair. DSC revealed increased crosslinking density of keratin-associated proteins (KAPs) in the hair cortex, evidenced by a 6.7% to 15.0% increase in denaturation temperature, varying with the specific chemical treatment. This improvement translates to enhanced mechanical properties, with tensile elastic modulus increasing by 7.5% to 23.5% and fatigue resistance (median cycles to break) improving by a remarkable 56% to 124%. Furthermore, CA treatment significantly reduced hair calcium levels by 21% to 42%. XRD analysis confirmed a reduction in the structure and quantity of crystallized calcium soaps following CA treatment. The observed performance improvements likely stem from a combination of mechanisms, including calcium chelation, the treatment's pH, and reinforcement of the non-covalent protein network. The precise interplay of these factors appears to be influenced by the type of pre-existing chemical treatment on the hair.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>CA effectively reinforces hair damaged by various common chemical treatments. However, these findings highlight the complex relationship between hair damage, chemical treatment type, and the efficacy of reinforcement strategies. The observed dependence of CA's performance on the level of pre-existing damage underscores the need for further research into developing targeted actives for consumers with specific and severe hair damage profiles. This opens exciting avenues for innovation in hair care tailored to individual needs.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142931645","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Non-acrylate UV-LED nail gel with high bio-renewable content based on hydrophobic organic-inorganic hybrid system","authors":"Tahereh Neda Hayeri,&nbsp;Vijay Mannari","doi":"10.1111/ics.13036","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13036","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The widespread utilization of nail gels in the cosmetic and beauty industry, with an anticipated market value of US $65.8 Million by 2026, has raised concerns about health risks associated with conventional compositions containing monomeric acrylate reactive diluents. Technical challenges, such as oxygen inhibition leading to incomplete cure and hence tackiness after curing, further complicate their application process. This study investigates UV-LED nail gels utilizing an innovative organic–inorganic hybrid (OIH) binder system, as the utilization of OIH coatings in nail gels has been scarcely, if at all, reported, with a substantial bio-based content (&gt;50%) without the use of any acrylate oligomer/monomers. By eliminating hazardous monomeric acrylates and addressing challenges related to free radical polymerization, the formulated nail gels achieve a 100% solid composition, free from VOC and HAPs, and possess significant bio-renewable content, ensuring safety, sustainability, and compliance with essential requirements.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"398-410"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2025-01-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142931639","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Cosmetic emulsions containing innovative complex coacervates: A cross-sectional study","authors":"Delaporte Adeline,&nbsp;Grisel Michel,&nbsp;Gore Ecaterina","doi":"10.1111/ics.13035","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13035","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Vitamin E, in the form of α-tocopherol (TOCO), is an essential lipophilic antioxidant widely used in topical formulations. However, incorporating pure TOCO into skincare products poses significant challenges due to its limited solubility and high sensitivity to heat, light and oxidation. The present cross-sectional study aimed to innovate by encapsulating TOCO using non-animal sustainable biopolymers through complex coacervation and to investigate the interaction of these coacervates with cosmetic emulsions, focusing on their impact on the emulsions' physicochemical properties and stability.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>TOCO was encapsulated using the complex coacervation technique by combining two biopolymers: fungal chitosan and gum Arabic. The designed microcapsules were incorporated into oil-in-water emulsions containing natural ingredients, and the physicochemical properties as well as the stability of the formulations were evaluated and compared to those of non-encapsulated TOCO emulsions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Innovative coacervates of the non-animal TOCO complex of 86.8 ± 3.5 μm were developed, achieving a high encapsulation efficiency and loading of 87.0% and 27.2%, respectively. The microcapsules exhibited thermal stability up to a temperature of 220°C and showed improved storage stability of the active ingredient when encapsulated. In particular, 63% of TOCO was retained over 2 months at a temperature of 40°C. Emulsions containing microcapsules showed increased particle size distribution, higher viscosity, and enhanced viscoelastic properties, in accordance with their textural properties. Both emulsions remained stable for a 1-month storage period at a temperature of 40°C, and no noticeable effect of coacervates on the stability of TOCO in the emulsions was observed.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study emphasises the potential of fungal chitosan-gum Arabic coacervates as a sustainable substitute for animal-derived coacervates, demonstrating promising outcomes for the encapsulation of lipophilic actives. When incorporated into cosmetic emulsions, these coacervates enhanced the textural and rheological properties while preserving the TOCO stability over time. These findings suggest that the developed microcapsules offer considerable potential for the development of future skin-care products with enhanced functional properties.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 2","pages":"383-397"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-12-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13035","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"142882060","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}