International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

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Dual asymmetric centrifugation to prepare cosmetic emulsions and creams: Physico-chemical and energy considerations. 双不对称离心制备化妆品乳液和面霜:物理化学和能量的考虑。
IF 2.6 4区 医学
International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2026-08-10 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70130
A Verger, M Azzoug, E Munnier
{"title":"Dual asymmetric centrifugation to prepare cosmetic emulsions and creams: Physico-chemical and energy considerations.","authors":"A Verger, M Azzoug, E Munnier","doi":"10.1111/ics.70130","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70130","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>This study evaluates room-temperature dual asymmetric centrifugation (DAC) as an R&D scale alternative mixing technology for cosmetic oil-in-water emulsions and structured creams (200 g), compared with high-shear rotor-stator and thermo-mechanical processes, with a focus on product properties and energy requirements.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>Formulations were characterized by visual assessment, conductivity and pH monitoring over 30 days. Physical stability was analysed by multiple light scattering. Flow and oscillatory measurements were performed, complemented by texture analysis. Specific energy consumption was evaluated at both scales.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>All systems exhibited homogeneous oil-in-water structures with no significant differences in pH evolution or physical stability. Shear-thinning behaviour was observed for all formulations, while creams showed dominant elastic behaviour (G' > G″), indicating structured networks independent of the mixing process. Texture properties were similar across technologies. Energy analysis revealed a scale effect: rotor-stator was more efficient for 30 g samples, while DAC became competitive at 200 g due to the absence of heating. Final product properties remained comparable across processes.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>DAC is a robust and energy-efficient alternative for cosmetic emulsions and creams, enabling comparable product properties while offering potential energy savings at larger scales, supporting more sustainable processing strategies.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148706490","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Trans-resveratrol alleviates inflammation and improves skin barrier function via aryl hydrocarbon receptor pathway in human reconstructed epidermis. 反式白藜芦醇通过芳烃受体途径在人重建表皮中缓解炎症,改善皮肤屏障功能。
IF 2.6 4区 医学
International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2026-08-09 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70134
Irini M Dijkhoff, Sandeep Keshavan, Regina G Daré, Alke Petri-Fink, Marc Eeman, Agnès Tessier, Barbara Rothen-Rutishauser
{"title":"Trans-resveratrol alleviates inflammation and improves skin barrier function via aryl hydrocarbon receptor pathway in human reconstructed epidermis.","authors":"Irini M Dijkhoff, Sandeep Keshavan, Regina G Daré, Alke Petri-Fink, Marc Eeman, Agnès Tessier, Barbara Rothen-Rutishauser","doi":"10.1111/ics.70134","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70134","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>The aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) is a regulator of epidermal homeostasis and a promising target for cosmetic and dermatological ingredients aimed at improving skin barrier function and reducing inflammation. This study investigated the potential of the natural polyphenol trans-resveratrol (RSV), a compound of cosmetic interest, to modulate downstream AHR signalling and restore epidermal integrity in a model of skin compromised by a pro-inflammatory environment.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>A reconstructed human epidermis (RhE) was exposed to a cytokine cocktail (IL-4, IL-13, TNF-α) to induce a phenotype mimicking some aspects of atopic eczema, namely inflammation, oxidative stress and barrier disruption, features also prevalent in sensitive and reactive skin conditions. The effects of RSV were evaluated by assessing inflammatory mediators, oxidative stress-related markers, aryl hydrocarbon receptor signalling and epidermal barrier-associated proteins using molecular, biochemical and histological analyses.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Cytokine exposure induced a pronounced inflammatory response, activation of aryl hydrocarbon receptor signalling, oxidative stress-related gene expression and dysregulation of barrier-related markers. Treatment with RSV attenuated the inflamed phenotype by reducing IL1A mRNA expression and IL-1α secretion, attenuating oxidative stress-associated AHR target gene responses through downregulation of CYP1A1 and CYP1B1, while maintaining AHR and HMOX1 expression and modulating barrier-associated gene expression, particularly by downregulating CASP14 and upregulating the tight junction protein occludin (OCLN).</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>These findings provide mechanistic evidence in a human epidermis model that RSV can counteract inflammation, mitigate oxidative stress and support epidermal barrier homeostasis, actions mediated, at least in part, through modulation of AHR downstream signalling. This supports the potential of resveratrol as a multifunctional active ingredient in cosmetic and dermatological formulations designed to strengthen the skin barrier and calm sensitive or compromised skin.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148701016","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Pretreatment of keratinocytes with Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF) promotes stress resiliency in an in vitro oxidative stress model. 在体外氧化应激模型中,半乳糖酵母菌发酵滤液(GFF)预处理角质形成细胞可促进应激恢复。
IF 2.6 4区 医学
International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2026-08-09 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70135
Lisa C Green, Tim Reichling, Holly A Rovito, Jodie Reed, Xingtao Wei, John M Snowball, Tom Cambron, Tomohiro Hakozaki
{"title":"Pretreatment of keratinocytes with Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF) promotes stress resiliency in an in vitro oxidative stress model.","authors":"Lisa C Green, Tim Reichling, Holly A Rovito, Jodie Reed, Xingtao Wei, John M Snowball, Tom Cambron, Tomohiro Hakozaki","doi":"10.1111/ics.70135","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70135","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Objective: </strong>Extrinsic, lifestyle stressors can increase oxidative stress and induce premature aging characteristics of the skin. We studied the effects of oxidative stress at the biomolecular level to gain insights into effective stress-resiliency strategies for skincare. We also investigated if Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF) pretreatment could enhance stress resiliency in keratinocytes in vitro.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>In vitro single cell Raman spectroscopy was performed to identify an oxidative stress phenotype in keratinocytes exposed to hydrogen peroxide (H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>) stress. The gene expression and functional consequences of acute stress were also determined by performing RNA sequencing, mitochondrial metabolism assays, and proliferation assays 24 h after H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub> stress exposure. All experiments were performed with and without GFF pretreatment.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Raman spectra revealed a novel stress phenotype which includes the formation of cysteic acid with increasing doses of H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub>, likely from the breaking of disulfide bonds in keratins. GFF pretreatment significantly mitigated this stress phenotype; GFF-pretreated cells were 11.9 times more likely to exhibit healthy spectra compared to control cells when exposed to high stress. RNA sequencing conducted 24 h after H<sub>2</sub>O<sub>2</sub> exposure also demonstrated a stress-related phenotype characterized by enhanced regulation of apoptosis and reduced keratinocyte differentiation. Conversely, GFF pretreatment increased multiple pathways of skin development at baseline and prevented the stress-induced dysregulation of gene expression. Keratinocytes pretreated with GFF also had increased stress resiliency in mitochondrial stress and wound healing assays.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>Our data establishes that oxidative stress induces a distinctive biomolecular stress phenotype in keratinocytes. GFF pretreatment enhances the resilience of keratinocytes, as demonstrated by increased expression across various gene pathways related to keratinocyte differentiation, cell-cell junctions, and lipid metabolism. Following oxidative stress, GFF-pretreated cells exhibited substantial protection from the stress-induced biomolecular alterations identified in Raman spectra. Furthermore, GFF pretreatment effectively mitigated the downstream consequences of stress, supporting maintenance of keratinocyte gene-expression programs, mitochondrial activity, and wound-closure capacity after oxidative stress.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148701092","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Efficacy and safety of a novel anhydrous 0.1% retinal and 10% azelaic acid concentrate for blemish-prone skin: An eight-week randomized prospective split-face, vehicle-controlled study. 一种新型无水0.1%视网膜和10%壬二酸浓缩液治疗易发粉刺皮肤的疗效和安全性:一项为期8周的随机前瞻性裂面对照研究。
IF 2.6 4区 医学
International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2026-08-09 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70131
Chloé Gaudicheau, Maria Ahlström, Johanna Maria Gillbro, Ulf Åkerström
{"title":"Efficacy and safety of a novel anhydrous 0.1% retinal and 10% azelaic acid concentrate for blemish-prone skin: An eight-week randomized prospective split-face, vehicle-controlled study.","authors":"Chloé Gaudicheau, Maria Ahlström, Johanna Maria Gillbro, Ulf Åkerström","doi":"10.1111/ics.70131","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70131","url":null,"abstract":"<p><strong>Background: </strong>Blemish-prone skin is driven by follicular hyperkeratinization, excessive sebum production, microbial dysbiosis and inflammation, often accompanied by post-inflammatory erythema and hyperpigmentation. Retinal and azelaic acid are established topical actives with complementary mechanisms of action, yet no clinical study has evaluated their combination in a single formulation.</p><p><strong>Objective: </strong>To evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of a minimalist anhydrous concentrate combining retinal (0.1%) and azelaic acid (10%) in improving objective and self-perceived features of blemish-prone skin over 8 weeks.</p><p><strong>Methods: </strong>In a prospective randomized, vehicle-controlled split-face study, participants applied the active concentrate to one side of the face and a vehicle concentrate to the contralateral side, mixed with a moisturizer immediately before application. Assessments were performed at baseline and week 8 using standardized photography, Antera 3D imaging and consumer questionnaires. Statistical comparisons were performed within subjects and between treatment conditions.</p><p><strong>Results: </strong>Twenty-three participants completed the study (age 16-49 years; mean 28 years; Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV). After 8 weeks, the active formulation demonstrated statistically significant improvements versus baseline and vehicle. Skin texture improved by 10.9% versus baseline (p < 0.0001) and 5.6% versus vehicle (p = 0.0016). Skin volume (surface irregularities/pits) decreased by 24.8% versus baseline (p < 0.0001) and 12.7% versus vehicle (p = 0.0053). Overall redness was reduced by 13.2% versus baseline (p = 0.0009) and 18.1% versus vehicle (p = 0.011), while maximum redness intensity decreased by 8.8% versus baseline (p < 0.0001) and 5.2% versus vehicle (p = 0.029). The pore parameter showed a 22.3% improvement versus vehicle (p = 0.015) and 15.9% versus baseline (p = 0.051). Self-assessments indicated improvements in overall skin condition (87%), pimple size/severity (78%), number of pimples (74%), calmer skin feel (95%) and reduced oiliness (82%). Visible improvements within 4 weeks were reported by 65% of participants. Adverse events were few, mild and transient.</p><p><strong>Conclusion: </strong>An anhydrous six-ingredient concentrate combining retinal 0.1% and azelaic acid 10% significantly improved texture, surface irregularities, redness and pore appearance in acne-prone skin over 8 weeks with good tolerability. The formulation provides a stability-optimized approach for combining two evidence-based actives in a minimalist system.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"148701010","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Differentiating solar lentigines from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation with hyperspectral imaging: A pilot study 用高光谱成像鉴别太阳痣与炎症后色素沉着:一项初步研究。
IF 2.6 4区 医学
International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2026-08-07 Epub Date: 2026-01-12 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70067
Victor Egana, Carl Blaksley, Ayako Itaya, Mai Edagawa, Alexandre Nicolas
{"title":"Differentiating solar lentigines from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation with hyperspectral imaging: A pilot study","authors":"Victor Egana,&nbsp;Carl Blaksley,&nbsp;Ayako Itaya,&nbsp;Mai Edagawa,&nbsp;Alexandre Nicolas","doi":"10.1111/ics.70067","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70067","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Solar lentigines and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) are common pigmentation disorders, and they are usually differentiated by a trained dermatologist. Accurate identification of the spot type is essential for providing patients with the most appropriate skin treatment. The aim of this study was to evaluate the capacity of hyperspectral imaging (HSI) in characterizing and discriminating solar lentigines from PIH, that is, to identify the colorimetric features and chromophore concentrations associated with each pigmentation disorder.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Acquisition of HSI was performed using a liquid-crystal tuneable filter spectral scanning spectrometer. The recruited panel consisted of female Japanese subjects (<i>n</i> = 11) with one solar lentigo on both the left and right cheeks. Five of these subjects also had one PIH spot on both the left and right cheeks.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Significant differences were found in the mean difference relative to the surrounding skin between PIH spots and solar lentigines for the following features (all <i>p</i> &lt; 0.05): Δ<i>Oxyhaemoglobin</i> (PIH spots (2.3 ± 1.1) × 10<sup>−2</sup> g·cm·L<sup>−1</sup> vs. solar lentigines (−0.1 ± 0.6) × 10<sup>−2</sup> g·cm·L<sup>−1</sup>), Δ<i>Deoxyhaemoglobin</i> (PIH spots (6.3 ± 2.6) × 10<sup>−2</sup> g·cm·L<sup>−1</sup> vs. solar lentigines (0.9 ± 1.7) × 10<sup>−2</sup> g·cm·L<sup>−1</sup>), Δ<i>a</i>* values (PIH spots 5.3 ± 2.0 vs. solar lentigines 1.6 ± 1.3) and Δ<i>b</i>* values (PIH spots −1.2 ± 0.7 vs. solar lentigines −0.1 ± 0.4). No significant difference was observed in Δ<i>L</i>* values and Δ<i>Melanin</i> content between the two hyperpigmentation types (all <i>p</i> &gt; 0.05).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Compared with solar lentigines, PIH spots displayed higher haemoglobin content and Δ<i>a</i>* values and lower Δ<i>b</i>* values. To strengthen these preliminary findings, further clinical studies need to be conducted on a larger cohort, aiming at confirming the benefit of HSI in accurately differentiating these two skin pigmentation disorders to support clinical assessment.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 4","pages":"738-746"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70067","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145951860","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Hair growth enhancement via mitochondrial activation by Mito-activator complex 通过Mito-activator复合物激活线粒体促进头发生长。
IF 2.6 4区 医学
International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2026-08-07 Epub Date: 2026-02-09 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70072
In Gi Lee, Hyo Jeong Lim, Eun Ji Kwon, Yu Jin Jeon, Seul Bee Lee, Nam Youl Kim
{"title":"Hair growth enhancement via mitochondrial activation by Mito-activator complex","authors":"In Gi Lee,&nbsp;Hyo Jeong Lim,&nbsp;Eun Ji Kwon,&nbsp;Yu Jin Jeon,&nbsp;Seul Bee Lee,&nbsp;Nam Youl Kim","doi":"10.1111/ics.70072","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70072","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Hair loss is a common condition that affects both men and women and can significantly affect the quality of life. However, existing substances used to treat hair loss have several side effects. Here, we show that a novel Mito-Activator Complex (MiAc), consisting of nicotinamide and its derivatives (nicotinamide riboside chloride, nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) and epigallocatechin gallate, stimulates mitochondrial activity and promotes hair growth.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In vitro analyses such as ATP assay and mitochondrial content assay, etc. were conducted in human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs) and human dermal fibroblasts (hDFs), and a 6-month human application tests for two formulations on adult men and women were also conducted to confirm changes in hair count, skin safety, etc.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In vitro analyses showed that ATP level, mitochondrial content and expression of mitochondrial factors and the hair growth secretome increased following treatment with MiAc. An exploration of the link between mitochondrial activity and hair growth using dorsomorphin, an AMPK inhibitor that regulates mitochondrial homeostasis, showed that MiAc rescued dorsomorphin-induced suppression of the expression of mitochondrial factors and the hair growth secretome, confirming that mitochondrial activity is closely related to hair growth. The Mito-Activator Complex also improved cell viability, alkaline phosphatase (ALP) level and cell migration in hDPCs and dermal hDFs. Furthermore, a clinical trial evaluating formulations with MiAc showed significant improvements in hair density and growth over 24 weeks, with no adverse effects reported.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The approach of this study to promote hair growth through mitochondrial activation was successful. In addition, when applied to the human body beyond the in vitro level, a significant increase in hair growth was obtained without any side effects. In conclusion, this study suggested a promising candidate for hair loss treatment.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 4","pages":"813-827"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146141938","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
A novel approach to enhancing the effect of skincare formulas based on the interfacial properties of vesicles imitating cell membrane 一种基于模拟细胞膜的囊泡界面特性来增强护肤配方效果的新方法。
IF 2.6 4区 医学
International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2026-08-07 Epub Date: 2026-01-12 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70070
Yang Zhang, Mika Yoshimura Fujii, Makoto Uyama, Kei Watanabe
{"title":"A novel approach to enhancing the effect of skincare formulas based on the interfacial properties of vesicles imitating cell membrane","authors":"Yang Zhang,&nbsp;Mika Yoshimura Fujii,&nbsp;Makoto Uyama,&nbsp;Kei Watanabe","doi":"10.1111/ics.70070","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70070","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In recent years, consumer expectations for effectiveness have been increasing. To address these issues, we used the novel interfacial scientific approaches: liquids with low surface tension, a novel vesicle dispersion using polyglycerol fatty acid esters, which imitated the structure of the cell membrane. The aim is that the vesicle uniformly spreads along the skin surface and makes a larger amount of active ingredients penetrate into the skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To prepare a vesicle dispersion, research on phase equilibria including a lamellar liquid crystal was carried out. Surface tension and wetting behaviour were checked for the physical property of the system. To identify the skin penetration of active ingredients, tape stripping and human tests were carried out in addition to the imaging of ex vivo skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>It was found that a specific OH/C ratio forms lamellar liquid crystals and disperses stably in aqueous dispersion as vesicles. Surface tension of the vesicle dispersion was significantly lower, and the wetting behaviour was more than eight times better than the conventional micellar system. Tape stripping tests revealed that the skin penetration of brightening ingredients was significantly higher than that of the conventional micellar system, of which relevant skin condition was recognized by panellists by a human test.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Through this research, we developed a novel, penetrating base system with naturally derived surfactant in which functions work properly for both short and long periods of time after application.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 4","pages":"747-757"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145951907","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
From crown to cosmetics: Exploring the efficacy of an upcycled pineapple biopolymer in sustainable skincare, suncare and hair care applications 从皇冠到化妆品:探索菠萝生物聚合物在可持续护肤、防晒和护发应用中的功效。
IF 2.6 4区 医学
International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2026-08-07 Epub Date: 2026-01-12 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70071
Daniel D. Shill, Kayla C. Goodson, Hannah N. Stade, Candice M. Sneed, Deana Haller, Morgan Drohan, Maureen D. Drumwright, Durant Scholz
{"title":"From crown to cosmetics: Exploring the efficacy of an upcycled pineapple biopolymer in sustainable skincare, suncare and hair care applications","authors":"Daniel D. Shill,&nbsp;Kayla C. Goodson,&nbsp;Hannah N. Stade,&nbsp;Candice M. Sneed,&nbsp;Deana Haller,&nbsp;Morgan Drohan,&nbsp;Maureen D. Drumwright,&nbsp;Durant Scholz","doi":"10.1111/ics.70071","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70071","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Objective&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Nearly 50% of the pineapple by weight is discarded after harvesting due to various processing methods, resulting in huge amounts of waste containing beneficial compounds and metabolites that have high valorization potential across multiple industries. Agricultural waste, expanding industrialism and human transportation have increased airborne pollution and ultraviolet (UV) exposure, which exerts negative effects on skin, hair and overall health. As such, an eco-conscious cosmetic ingredient creating a physical barrier between the skin surface and environmental aggressors with properties to combat the subsequent cellular effects of these harmful factors is highly sought after. Accordingly, we investigated the capacity of an upcycled film-forming pineapple biopolymer to provide a comprehensive array of benefits for utilization in skincare, sunscreen and haircare formulations while facilitating environmental sustainability.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Methods&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;We developed a novel Pineapple Leaf Fibre Crosspolymer (PALF) by subjecting discarded pineapple leaf fibres to a proprietary manufacturing process involving alkali treatment, acidic hydrolysis and yeast fermentation. Next, efficacy was examined to determine the cosmetic potential of PALF in skincare, sunscreen and haircare formulations. In vitro and ex vivo experiments evaluated PALF for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antipollution, UV protection and pigment-dispersing properties. Furthermore, in vivo studies were implemented to elucidate the impact of PALF on dermal carbon deposition, long-wear foundation transfer resistance, skin hydration, barrier function, sensory experience and perceived hair benefits.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Results&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;The in vitro and ex vivo experiments demonstrated PALF reduced excessive oxidative stress, quelled inflammation, inhibited the negative effects of airborne pollution and UV exposure, while exhibiting effective pigment-dispersing properties. With respect to in vivo studies, PALF reduced dermal carbon deposition while improving long-wear foundation transfer resistance, skin hydration, barrier function, sensory experience and perceived hair benefits.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Taken together, the eco-friendly PALF protects against harmful environmental aggressors while exerting other beneficial effects on the skin and hair. Importantly, PALF forms a physical barrier on the skin surface, limiting pollution contact with the skin with the capacity to blunt the cellular effects of harmful environmental factors. Collectively, the present investigation demonstrates PAL","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 4","pages":"758-779"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145951901","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Recent advances of emergent extraction technologies to enhance bioactive compounds extraction of microalgae—An overview towards application in cosmetics 提高微藻生物活性成分提取的新兴提取技术研究进展——在化妆品中的应用综述。
IF 2.6 4区 医学
International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2026-08-07 Epub Date: 2026-02-09 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70078
Alireza Mousakhani Ganjeh, Lucília da P. da Silva, Carlos A. Pinto, Rosário Martins, Alexandra P. Marques, Jorge A. Saraiva
{"title":"Recent advances of emergent extraction technologies to enhance bioactive compounds extraction of microalgae—An overview towards application in cosmetics","authors":"Alireza Mousakhani Ganjeh,&nbsp;Lucília da P. da Silva,&nbsp;Carlos A. Pinto,&nbsp;Rosário Martins,&nbsp;Alexandra P. Marques,&nbsp;Jorge A. Saraiva","doi":"10.1111/ics.70078","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70078","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Microalgae have attracted significant interest in numerous sectors, particularly in the cosmetic industries, owing to their rich composition of bioactive compounds. This paper aims to provide an overview of the recent progress in the extraction of bioactive compounds from microalgae for use in cosmetic industries. Firstly, the extraction methods currently used to extract such compounds will be presented and discussed, followed by the analysis of the bioactivities of the microalgae extracts in the context of cosmetics. Then, the use of emerging extraction technologies such as pressure-based techniques, electro-based methods, and acoustic-based extraction aiming to enhance the extraction yield and efficiency of bioactive compounds from microalgae are used for various purposes, but with the perspective of their application in value-added sectors like cosmetics. This overview underscores the crucial role of optimized extraction techniques in enhancing the large-scale utilization of microalgae and maximizing its potential as a sustainable source of bioactive compounds.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 4","pages":"884-910"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70078","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146141929","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
An investigation of the sound of foam and its potential influence on the shampoo experience 泡沫声及其对洗发体验的潜在影响的研究。
IF 2.6 4区 医学
International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2026-08-07 Epub Date: 2026-01-08 DOI: 10.1111/ics.70075
Jia Wu, Weichen Kong, Ji Dong, Andrew Thomas Steel, Anjali Bhatara, David Morizet
{"title":"An investigation of the sound of foam and its potential influence on the shampoo experience","authors":"Jia Wu,&nbsp;Weichen Kong,&nbsp;Ji Dong,&nbsp;Andrew Thomas Steel,&nbsp;Anjali Bhatara,&nbsp;David Morizet","doi":"10.1111/ics.70075","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70075","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Compared to at-home hair washing, the salon shampooing experience offers a different sensory landscape for the client. Visual and tactile interaction with the shampoo foam itself is minimized, thereby emphasizing the olfactory, tactile (scalp) and auditory dimensions of the experience. This sensory shift presents a novel opportunity to investigate the impact of the often-overlooked aspects of the hair washing experience, especially shampoo foaming auditory perception.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The present study uses binaural recording techniques to explore the sound of shampoo foam from the perspective of a person whose hair is being washed (salon context). It is designed to answer the question of whether participants can differentiate different shampoo foam sounds and to quantify acoustic differences among the foam sounds. It then examines the emotional and functional implications this has for the shampooing experience. In addition, a combined approach including psychoacoustic analysis of the foaming sound, free listing and Check-all-that-apply tests has been employed to ascertain the functional and emotional connotations perceived by participants.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The results show that participants can differentiate different sounds, and that these different sounds form clusters based on their acoustic, emotional and functional profiles. The initial phase of lathering tends to be a separate cluster, more linked to high arousal and negative emotions, whereas later phases tend to be more positive. Different shampoos also show different functional and emotional evocations.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In sum, the results suggest that the sound of shampoo foam has the potential to (1) affect a salon customer's hair washing experience, (2) serve as an effective tool for marketing and even (3) influence the design of the shampoo or salon service itself.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 4","pages":"725-737"},"PeriodicalIF":2.6,"publicationDate":"2026-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70075","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145932824","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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