International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Clinical efficacy of a multilamellar cream on skin physiology and microbiome in an epidermal stress model: A controlled double-blinded study (Part I)1","authors":"Joachim W. Fluhr, Peter Menzel, Rolf Schwarzer, Dessyslava G. Nikolaeva, Razvigor Darlenski, Martin Albrecht","doi":"10.1111/ics.12950","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12950","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Introduction</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Stratum corneum (SC) is essential for skin barrier function, mitigating water loss and shielding against potentially harmful substances and allergens. The SC's lipid matrix, arranged in a lamellar structure, is integral to its protective role. Our study explores the restoration effects of a multilamellar cream with an acidic pH compared to a basic placebo cream on skin physiology and its interaction with the skin microbiome after stress induction via tape stripping (TS).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Materials and Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In this double-blind study, 14 healthy participants aged 21–58 years were assessed pre- and post-tape stripping, followed by a 14 days application of a multilamellar test cream and a placebo cream with evaluations on days 7, 14 and 17 for sustained effects. Skin physiology was analysed in terms of epidermal barrier function, SC hydration and surface pH. The microbiome was analysed by 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing the 16S rRNA gene using Illumina MiSeq, with subsequent species identification.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Our study showed significant improvements in skin barrier repair and SC hydration with verum, particularly after 14 days of application, while both creams initially enhanced stratum corneum hydration. No significant changes in surface-pH were detected. The skin microbiome analysis revealed that TS slightly decreased alpha diversity, a trend that verum significantly reversed, enhancing diversity beyond baseline levels after 14 days. Overall, while both creams contributed to a broader microbial phyla diversity over time, no significant changes in the abundance of specific genera or species were noted between treatments.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Discussion and Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Our study delineates the efficacy of a pH-optimized multilamellar cream in enhancing epidermal barrier recovery and SC hydration post-sequential TS, in contrast to an unstructured basic placebo. Verum cream significantly improved skin barrier function and SC hydration at day 14, with sustained effects evident beyond the treatment period. Furthermore, the multilamellar formulation facilitated the restitution of cutaneous microbiome diversity, a key indicator of healthy skin ecology, underscoring the symbiotic relationship between barrier integrity and microbial composition. These findings underscore the importance of multilamellar emollient structures in dermatological therapeutics, with potential implications for the design of advanced skincare interventions that holistical","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"566-577"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12950","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901615","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Tony Rawlings – A Festschrift","authors":"Majella E. Lane, David J Moore","doi":"10.1111/ics.13009","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13009","url":null,"abstract":"<p>It is a very welcome and special honour for us to edit this special issue of the <i>International Journal of Cosmetic Science</i> dedicated to recognizing the contributions that Anthony (Tony) Rawlings has made to skin barrier research over the last several decades. In addition to being a collaborator for many years Tony is also a dear friend to both of us.</p><p>Tony's career can be split (very crudely) into three distinct activities: industrial R&D scientist, journal editor, and scientific consultant. Of course, while doing each of these roles Tony was always an author, a teacher, a mentor, a conference organizer, a skin barrier enthusiast, a collaborator, and a champion of young scientists among many other roles.</p><p>We thank the authors of each of the contributions to this special issue and are particularly delighted that the contributions range from the highly personal, to review articles, and new research. To those that know Tony well it will come as no surprise that although he is now officially retired, he co-authored two of the contributions to this issue.</p><p>As discussed immediately below Tony's impact as editor of this journal was immense.</p><p>We are delighted to include contributions by Clive Harding (“Dr. Anthony Rawlings: The Unilever Years. 1988–2001”) and Rainer Voegeli (“Memories of a two-decade journey with a SC Addict”) as part of this introduction. Clive and Rainer are each uniquely placed to provide personal perspectives and historical context to Tony's significant contributions to skin barrier science as an industrial scientist and as a consultant, respectively.</p><p>Tony first joined the Editorial Advisory Board of the IJCS in 1998. In 2002 he was appointed co-editor, (succeeding Anthony Dweck), with Dr. Didier Saint-Leger serving as Editor-In-Chief (EIC). Subsequently Tony was appointed EIC of the IJCS in 2003 with Dr. Claude Dubief becoming co-editor. Successive co-editors included Professor Christine Lafforgue and Dr. Karl Lintner. In 2013, Tony handed over the editorial reins to Dr. Karl Lintner and Dr. Majella Lane.</p><p>When Tony was appointed EIC in 2003, the journal was not online and content could not be easily accessed. Moreover, the journal did not have an Institute for Scientific Information (ISI) impact factor, an essential requirement to attract academic researchers to publish in the IJCS. To address these issues, firstly Tony began the application process for the journal to be included in the MEDLINE database, the premier online bibliographic database for journal articles in life sciences. At the same time he also began the work necessary to obtain an ISI impact factor for the IJCS. Inclusion of the IJCS in MEDLINE was accepted in 2008 and the allocation of an ISI impact factor was agreed in 2011; however an actual impact factor was not provided until 2014. The award of an impact factor may be solely attributed to Tony's efforts on behalf of the IJCS and this achievement for the IJCS may not b","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"479-480"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13009","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901626","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The importance of stratum corneum ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides in human skin barrier health: their biochemistry, processing enzymes and metabolites involved in corneocyte lipid envelope maturation","authors":"Anthony V. Rawlings,&nbsp;Majella E. Lane,&nbsp;Rainer Voegeli","doi":"10.1111/ics.12955","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12955","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Over the past 50 years there have been great strides made in the discovery of the composition and relevance of the total stratum corneum (SC) ceramide matrix. However, the focus of this review is on the free intercellular class of ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides, corneocyte-bound ceramides and associated lipids known as the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE) together with their processing enzymes involved in aiding ceramide attachment the corneocyte protein envelope (CPE). Two structural models and partially shared biosynthetic pathways have been proposed for the attachment of CPE-bound O-ceramides (ω-hydroxyceramides attached to glutamate residues of proteins in the (CPE) using the 12R-lipoxygenase (12R-LOX)/epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3)/epoxide hydrolase-3 (EPHX3)/unknown esterase/ transglutaminase-1 (TG1) attachment pathway) and CPE-bound EO-ceramides (epoxy-enone ceramides attached to cysteine residues of proteins in the CPE using the 12R-LOX/eLOX3/short chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7)/non-enzymatic attachment pathway), i.e. there is a bifurcation step beyond epidermal eLOX3. Their formation and structures will be discussed as well as their relevance in compromised skin barrier conditions together with our own work on SC maturation examined by proteomics, lipidomics, enzyme immunolocalization studies, mechanical fragility assays and Nile red staining of corneocyte envelopes (CE). Reduced levels of 12R-LOX, eLOX3, SDR9C7 and TG1 were observed in photodamaged skin of the cheeks that were associated with reduced SC maturation as evidenced by Nile red staining and increased CE fragility. In the severely photodamaged cheeks of Albino African SC we also observed increased levels of acylceramides. Concomitantly by reducing the activity of 12R-LOX by antibody inhibition and TG1 inhibition with a known chemical inhibitor, we demonstrated in a humidity-based ex vivo SC maturation model that these enzymes contributed to increased CE hydrophobicity and mechanical integrity. We hypothesize that at least the CPE-bound O-ceramide pathway is operational in the SC. Nevertheless, our understanding of the full complexity of ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides and the composition of the CLE is limited particularly on cosmetically relevant body sites such as the face.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"623-642"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12955","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901624","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The role of ceramides in skin barrier function and the importance of their correct formulation for skincare applications","authors":"Jennifer Schild,&nbsp;Aneta Kalvodová,&nbsp;Jarmila Zbytovská,&nbsp;Mike Farwick,&nbsp;Cornelia Pyko","doi":"10.1111/ics.12972","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12972","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Ceramides are a family of lipids constituted by a sphingoid base and a fatty acid. In the skin, they are mainly present in the stratum corneum where, with cholesterol and free fatty acids, they constitute the inter-corneocyte lipids. With the other lipid groups, they play a key role in the formation of dense lamellar structures between adjacent corneocytes, collectively ensuring the vital efficient barrier to water evaporation and protection from foreign agents´ penetration. Changes in ceramide level and relative composition, with potential impairment of lipid arrangement, have been evidenced in different skin conditions and skin diseases. Therefore, use of suitably formulated ceramides has been proposed for topical treatment to help re-structure damaged lipid arrangement and repair impaired skin barrier function. Nonetheless, the formulation of ceramides in products necessitates specific processes such as heating to high temperature before their introduction in the final formula. In this review on the structure, the role and the potential of ceramides for skincare, we point out the necessity of rigorous process when formulating ceramides into the final product. We demonstrate the counterproductive effects of undissolved ceramides on skin barrier repair capacity of the formulas, when assessed in different in vitro models of disrupted skin barrier.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"526-543"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12972","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901625","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A practical clinical device for evaluating changes to the skin's sebum from ozone","authors":"Frank Liebel,&nbsp;Stephanie Petersen,&nbsp;Gary Grove,&nbsp;Tim Houser","doi":"10.1111/ics.12998","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12998","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>It is known that tropospheric ozone (O₃) generated from pollutants reacting with UV forms lipid peroxidation products and induces oxidative stress to the skin. With the ever-increasing consumer awareness of the effects pollution has on skin, more testing methods will be needed to evaluate cosmetic ingredients. Recently, others have shown how antioxidants are able to reduce the effects from ozone on skin through in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies where human subjects place their arms into large stationary chambers.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Aims</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To develop a small, easy to use ozone exposure module (OEM) that can be used on various sites of the body and to validate this device for use in testing the ability of topical products to mitigate the effects of ozone exposure on the skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Materials and Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We have produced an OEM which can generate levels of ozone in excess of 1000 ppb and can be set to achieve the equivalent exposure to what is found in polluted environmental conditions. After exposure we used D-squame discs to remove the sebum and analytically quantitate squalene depletion. Squalene, which is very sensitive to ROS, easily oxidizes into early metabolite squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH) with ozone exposure.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We were able to show decreases in squalene levels after exposure and protective effects from a topical formulation.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This generator will be a useful tool for researchers to easily create a small and safe exposure from ozone for clinical testing.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"598-602"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901693","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Boosting of retinol activity using novel lecithin: Retinol acyltransferase inhibitors","authors":"Dominik Imfeld,&nbsp;André Fischer,&nbsp;Leithe Budel,&nbsp;Clarissa Stoll,&nbsp;Rolf Schütz,&nbsp;Anthony Vincent Rawlings","doi":"10.1111/ics.12968","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12968","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Lecithin:retinol acyltransferase (LRAT) is the main enzyme catalysing the esterification of retinol to retinyl esters and, hence, is of central importance for retinol homeostasis. As retinol, by its metabolite retinoic acid, stimulates fibroblasts to synthesize collagen fibres and inhibits collagen-degrading enzymes, the inhibition of LRAT presents an intriguing strategy for anti-ageing ingredients by increasing the available retinol in the skin. Here, we synthesized several derivatives mimicking natural lecithin substrates as potential LRAT inhibitors. By exploring various chemical modifications of the core scaffold consisting of a central amino acid and an N-terminal acylsulfone, we explored 10 different compounds in a biochemical assay, resulting in two compounds with IC₅₀ values of 21.1 and 32.7 μM (compounds 1 and 2), along with a simpler arginine derivative with comparative inhibitory potency. Supported by computational methods, we investigated their structure–activity relationship, resulting in the identification of several structural features associated with high inhibition of LRAT. Ultimately, we conducted an ex vivo study with human skin, demonstrating an increase of collagen III associated with a reduction of the skin ageing process. In conclusion, the reported compounds offer a promising approach to boost retinol abundance in human skin and might present a new generation of anti-ageing ingredients for cosmetic application.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"544-552"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12968","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901694","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Chondroitin/dermatan sulphate proteoglycan, desmosealin, showing affinity to desmosomes","authors":"Céline Laperdrix,&nbsp;Stéphane Duhieu,&nbsp;Marek Haftek","doi":"10.1111/ics.12954","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12954","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Introduction</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Complexities of robotic distal gastrectomy (RDG) give reason to assess physician's surgical skill. Varying levels in surgical skill affect patient outcomes. We aim to investigate how a novel artificial intelligence (AI) model can be used to evaluate surgical skill in RDG by recognizing surgical instruments.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Fifty-five consecutive robotic surgical videos of RDG for gastric cancer were analyzed. We used Deeplab, a multi-stage temporal convolutional network, and it trained on 1234 manually annotated images. The model was then tested on 149 annotated images for accuracy. Deep learning metrics such as Intersection over Union (IoU) and accuracy were assessed, and the comparison between experienced and non-experienced surgeons based on usage of instruments during infrapyloric lymph node dissection was performed.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We annotated 540 Cadiere forceps, 898 fenestrated bipolars, 359 suction tubes, 307 Maryland bipolars, 688 harmonic scalpels, 400 staplers, and 59 large clips. The average IoU and accuracy were 0.82 ± 0.12% and 87.2 ± 11.9% respectively. Moreover, the percentage of each instrument's usage to overall infrapyloric lymphadenectomy duration predicted by AI were compared. The use of stapler and large clip were significantly shorter in the experienced group compared to the non-experienced group.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study is the first to report that surgical skill can be successfully and accurately determined by an AI model for RDG. Our AI gives us a way to recognize and automatically generate instance segmentation of the surgical instruments present in this procedure. Use of this technology allows unbiased, more accessible RDG surgical skill.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"494-505"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901695","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Dr. Anthony Rawlings: The Unilever years. 1988–2001","authors":"Clive R. Harding","doi":"10.1111/ics.13010","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13010","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;p&gt;I first met Tony Rawlings in late 1988 when he joined Unilever Research Colworth House from working in the Cardiothoracic Research Unit at Liverpool Hospital. He was recruited into the fledgling Personal Products Research Section (PPRS), by Ian Scott the senior skin scientist at the time, to lead a project investigating skin lipids and desquamation. I had been recruited into PPRS the previous year, from another research group on the Colworth site to continue mechanistic understanding of filaggrin hydrolysis and build capability in measurement of the various components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor. Tony, and I worked together closely and became firm friends.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Although Tony had a background in lipid biochemistry, he was completely new to skin biology. He set about changing that dynamic with an energy, focus and drive that is as rare as it is commendable. To this day I have never met anyone who immersed themselves into the scientific literature as completely as did Tony. He didn't so much read the relevant scientific literature as devour it. The pile of reprints and photocopies on his desk grew exponentially, all with Tony's characteristic slivers of yellow Post-It® notes inserted from cover to cover, highlighting key data or key questions to be addressed. From a distance it looked as though a family of jaundiced porcupines had taken up residence on his desk. The Safety Inspector was not amused and declared that the gravity-defying piles of papers on Tony's desk were a fire hazard, and repeatedly told him to clear his workstation. Tony did. Tony took all his papers home. Ann (his wife) told me that their spare room/Tony's office, when she could squeeze through the door, began to resemble a dystopian Manhattan skyline. In all honesty it hasn't changed much over the past thirty years.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Halfway through the next year the Colworth House librarian declared that the budget for PPRS (for photocopying articles and obtaining reprints) had been exceeded. There was one major culprit. Nevertheless, Tony's rapid assimilation of skin literature and a keen ability to discern critical gaps in data and knowledge, as well as develop key insights soon began to bear fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;During the period 1989–1992 the research undertaken by Tony and his team began to bring new understanding of age-related and seasonal changes in the key barrier lipids of the stratum corneum: ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, and how these changes contributed to susceptibility to surfactant damage and poor skin condition [&lt;span&gt;1-3&lt;/span&gt;]. There were also insights into perturbations in corneodesmosomal hydrolysis [&lt;span&gt;4&lt;/span&gt;] and routes to amelioration that would pave the way subsequently for a more detailed analysis of the spectrum of proteolytic activity in the stratum corneum.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;However, Tony's contribution to PPRS and the Skin Category research programme went well beyond leading his group at Colworth House. He was instrumental in using his team's output and","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"481-483"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13010","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901616","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Impact of multilamellar formulations on stratum corneum lipid organization and epidermal lipid barrier enhancement (Part II)","authors":"Joachim W. Fluhr,&nbsp;Razvigor Darlenski,&nbsp;Stephan Daehnhardt-Pfeiffer,&nbsp;Martin Albrecht","doi":"10.1111/ics.12971","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12971","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Introduction&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;The integrity of the stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the skin's barrier function, protecting against environmental stressors and minimizing transepidermal water loss. Advances in skincare formulations have introduced multilamellar systems designed to emulate the SC's lipid composition and organization. This study hypothesizes that the application of a multilamellar cream will significantly impact the SC's lipid content and lamellar structure, thereby enhancing the epidermal barrier.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Methods&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;A saturated phosphatidylcholine-based multilamellar cream was applied to a cohort of adult subjects with very dry skin. Electron microscopy was utilized to analyse the micro-morphology of the cream and its integration into the lipid-depleted SC. Lipid analysis was conducted to quantify changes in the intercellular lipid matrix.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Results&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Transmission-electron microscopy (TEM) imaging demonstrated that the multilamellar cream possesses a structured arrangement comparable to the natural SC architecture. Short-term application revealed a time-dependent restoration of lipid bilayers, while a 14-day regimen showed a marked increase in lipid lamellae density and length within the SC. Lipid analysis indicated a significant increase in total lipid content, with notable enhancements in ceramide and free fatty acid levels, without altering cholesterol levels. Lipid ratio analysis further confirmed the rebalancing of the SC's lipid composition.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Discussion&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;The multilamellar cream selectively increased specific lipids critical for barrier function, suggesting an action mechanism that aligns with the skin's natural regulatory processes. This selective augmentation indicates the potential of the formulation to not only restore but also enhance the epidermal barrier, with the maintenance of physiological lipid ratios suggesting compatibility with intrinsic repair mechanisms.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;The study confirms that a multilamellar cream can significantly improve the SC's lipid composition and structural integrity, indicating enhanced barrier function. They are pivotal for skincare professionals, dermatologists, and product developers, enriching the understanding of multilamellar creams' benefits and applications in improving epidermal barrier function.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 ","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"578-589"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12971","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901618","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The benefits and challenges of treating skin with natural oils","authors":"Roger L. McMullen","doi":"10.1111/ics.12960","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12960","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The term natural oil refers to a fixed (non-volatile) oil of animal or plant origin. These types of oils – in contrast to essential (volatile) oils, which are obtained by steam distillation methods of plant matter – are typically obtained from plant seeds and nuts by a mechanical pressing technique or solvent extraction. The natural movement in cosmetics of the 21st century has led to renewed interest in formulating skin care products with botanical ingredients. In this article, we discuss the benefits and caveats of natural oil treatments as moisturizing agents (as occlusives and emollients) as well as their utility in wound healing and treatment of skin diseases. We also address the paradoxical behaviour of natural oils in relation to barrier function and highlight the current state of our knowledge with respect to the use of natural oils in neonatal skin care. Finally, we provide a comparison of natural oils to conventional petroleum-based oils.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 4","pages":"553-565"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-08-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12960","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141901623","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}