Cosmetic emulsions containing innovative complex coacervates: A cross-sectional study

IF 2.7 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2024-12-23 DOI:10.1111/ics.13035

Delaporte Adeline, Grisel Michel, Gore Ecaterina

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引用次数: 0

Abstract

Objective

Vitamin E, in the form of α-tocopherol (TOCO), is an essential lipophilic antioxidant widely used in topical formulations. However, incorporating pure TOCO into skincare products poses significant challenges due to its limited solubility and high sensitivity to heat, light and oxidation. The present cross-sectional study aimed to innovate by encapsulating TOCO using non-animal sustainable biopolymers through complex coacervation and to investigate the interaction of these coacervates with cosmetic emulsions, focusing on their impact on the emulsions' physicochemical properties and stability.

Methods

TOCO was encapsulated using the complex coacervation technique by combining two biopolymers: fungal chitosan and gum Arabic. The designed microcapsules were incorporated into oil-in-water emulsions containing natural ingredients, and the physicochemical properties as well as the stability of the formulations were evaluated and compared to those of non-encapsulated TOCO emulsions.

Results

Innovative coacervates of the non-animal TOCO complex of 86.8 ± 3.5 μm were developed, achieving a high encapsulation efficiency and loading of 87.0% and 27.2%, respectively. The microcapsules exhibited thermal stability up to a temperature of 220°C and showed improved storage stability of the active ingredient when encapsulated. In particular, 63% of TOCO was retained over 2 months at a temperature of 40°C. Emulsions containing microcapsules showed increased particle size distribution, higher viscosity, and enhanced viscoelastic properties, in accordance with their textural properties. Both emulsions remained stable for a 1-month storage period at a temperature of 40°C, and no noticeable effect of coacervates on the stability of TOCO in the emulsions was observed.

Conclusion

This study emphasises the potential of fungal chitosan-gum Arabic coacervates as a sustainable substitute for animal-derived coacervates, demonstrating promising outcomes for the encapsulation of lipophilic actives. When incorporated into cosmetic emulsions, these coacervates enhanced the textural and rheological properties while preserving the TOCO stability over time. These findings suggest that the developed microcapsules offer considerable potential for the development of future skin-care products with enhanced functional properties.

Abstract Image

查看原文本刊更多论文

含有创新复杂凝聚物的化妆品乳液：一项横断面研究。

目的：α-生育酚（TOCO）形式的维生素E是一种重要的亲脂性抗氧化剂，广泛应用于外用制剂中。然而，由于其溶解度有限，对热、光和氧化高度敏感，将纯TOCO纳入护肤品面临着重大挑战。本研究旨在利用非动物可持续生物聚合物通过复杂的凝聚作用来封装TOCO，并研究这些凝聚物与化妆品乳液的相互作用，重点研究它们对乳液的物理化学性质和稳定性的影响。方法：采用真菌壳聚糖和阿拉伯胶两种生物聚合物复合凝聚技术包封TOCO。将所设计的微胶囊掺入含有天然成分的水包油乳状液中，评价其理化性质和稳定性，并与未包封的TOCO乳状液进行比较。结果：制备了86.8±3.5 μm的非动物TOCO配合物的创新凝聚体，包封效率和负载率分别为87.0%和27.2%。微胶囊在220°C的温度下表现出热稳定性，并且包封后活性成分的储存稳定性得到改善。特别是，在40°C的温度下，63%的TOCO保留了2个多月。微胶囊乳状液的粒径分布增大，粘度增大，粘弹性增强，与微胶囊乳状液的结构特性一致。在40℃的温度下，两种乳剂在1个月的贮存期内均保持稳定，未观察到凝聚物对乳剂中TOCO稳定性的明显影响。结论：本研究强调了真菌性阿拉伯壳聚糖胶凝聚体作为动物源性凝聚体的可持续替代品的潜力，证明了其在包封亲脂活性方面的前景。当加入到化妆品乳液中时，这些凝聚体增强了结构和流变性能，同时保持了TOCO的稳定性。这些发现表明，所开发的微胶囊为未来开发具有增强功能特性的护肤品提供了相当大的潜力。

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来源期刊

International Journal of Cosmetic Science DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.60

自引率

4.30%

发文量

期刊介绍： The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.