Impact of multilamellar formulations on stratum corneum lipid organization and epidermal lipid barrier enhancement (Part II)

IF 2.7 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2024-08-07 DOI:10.1111/ics.12971

Joachim W. Fluhr, Razvigor Darlenski, Stephan Daehnhardt-Pfeiffer, Martin Albrecht

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Abstract

Introduction

The integrity of the stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the skin's barrier function, protecting against environmental stressors and minimizing transepidermal water loss. Advances in skincare formulations have introduced multilamellar systems designed to emulate the SC's lipid composition and organization. This study hypothesizes that the application of a multilamellar cream will significantly impact the SC's lipid content and lamellar structure, thereby enhancing the epidermal barrier.

Methods

A saturated phosphatidylcholine-based multilamellar cream was applied to a cohort of adult subjects with very dry skin. Electron microscopy was utilized to analyse the micro-morphology of the cream and its integration into the lipid-depleted SC. Lipid analysis was conducted to quantify changes in the intercellular lipid matrix.

Results

Transmission-electron microscopy (TEM) imaging demonstrated that the multilamellar cream possesses a structured arrangement comparable to the natural SC architecture. Short-term application revealed a time-dependent restoration of lipid bilayers, while a 14-day regimen showed a marked increase in lipid lamellae density and length within the SC. Lipid analysis indicated a significant increase in total lipid content, with notable enhancements in ceramide and free fatty acid levels, without altering cholesterol levels. Lipid ratio analysis further confirmed the rebalancing of the SC's lipid composition.

Discussion

The multilamellar cream selectively increased specific lipids critical for barrier function, suggesting an action mechanism that aligns with the skin's natural regulatory processes. This selective augmentation indicates the potential of the formulation to not only restore but also enhance the epidermal barrier, with the maintenance of physiological lipid ratios suggesting compatibility with intrinsic repair mechanisms.

Conclusion

The study confirms that a multilamellar cream can significantly improve the SC's lipid composition and structural integrity, indicating enhanced barrier function. They are pivotal for skincare professionals, dermatologists, and product developers, enriching the understanding of multilamellar creams' benefits and applications in improving epidermal barrier function.

Abstract Image

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多胶束配方对角质层脂质组织和表皮脂质屏障增强的影响（第二部分）。

导言：角质层（SC）的完整性对于皮肤的屏障功能、抵御环境压力和减少经表皮水分流失至关重要。护肤配方的进步引入了多胶束系统，旨在模拟角质层的脂质组成和组织。本研究假设，涂抹多胶束面霜将显著影响SC的脂质含量和层状结构，从而增强表皮屏障：方法：将一种基于饱和磷脂酰胆碱的多层乳霜涂抹在一组皮肤非常干燥的成年受试者身上。利用电子显微镜分析了乳霜的微观形态及其与缺脂 SC 的结合情况。还进行了脂质分析，以量化细胞间脂质基质的变化：结果：透射电子显微镜（TEM）成像显示，多纤毛霜具有与天然 SC 结构相当的结构排列。短期使用后，脂质双分子层的恢复与时间有关，而 14 天的使用则表明 SC 内脂质层的密度和长度明显增加。脂质分析表明，总脂质含量明显增加，神经酰胺和游离脂肪酸含量显著提高，胆固醇含量没有改变。脂质比率分析进一步证实了 SC 脂质成分的重新平衡：讨论：多胶束乳霜选择性地增加了对屏障功能至关重要的特定脂质，表明其作用机制与皮肤的天然调节过程相一致。这种选择性增加表明，该配方不仅具有恢复表皮屏障的潜力，而且还能增强表皮屏障，同时还能保持生理脂质比例，这表明该配方与内在修复机制兼容：研究证实，多胶束面霜能显著改善表皮屏障的脂质组成和结构完整性，从而增强屏障功能。这些研究对护肤专业人员、皮肤科医生和产品开发人员至关重要，丰富了他们对多胶束面霜在改善表皮屏障功能方面的益处和应用的认识。

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来源期刊

International Journal of Cosmetic Science DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.60

自引率

4.30%

发文量

期刊介绍： The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.