International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"Para rubber seed oil and its fatty acids alleviate photoaging and maintain cell homeostasis","authors":"Nattaya Lourith,&nbsp;Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul,&nbsp;Mattaka Khongkow,&nbsp;Puxvadee Chaikul","doi":"10.1111/ics.13006","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13006","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Para rubber seed oil was indicated for skin dullness and hair loss in regard to its cutaneous beneficial fatty acids. Nonetheless, the oil's potency against photoaging remains unexplored. We proposed that para rubber seed oil could alleviate photoaging.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Para rubber seed oil was investigated in cocultures of human HaCaT cells and dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Photoaging protectant efficiency was monitored in terms of IL-6 and IL-8 as well as MMP-1 (collagenase) and MMP-9 (gelatinase) in a comparison with its fatty acid components.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Para rubber seed oil standardized in fatty acids was indicated as the promising plant oil for photoaging treatment. Its photoprotection mechanism was demonstrated in the coculture system of keratinocyte and fibroblast cells for the first time. Where the oil and its fatty acid constituents (100 μg/mL) were indicated to be safe and efficiently protect the cocultures against UV damage. The oil significantly (<i>p</i> &lt; 0.001) suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 secretions. The revealed photoprotection proficiency was abided by its fatty acids, particularly the unsaturated C18 ones.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The oil was indicated on its potential to maintain skin homeostasis and would alleviate senescence ageing in regard to its photoprotection abilities exhibited. Para rubber seed oil is warranted as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent with the profiled safety and efficacy demonstrated in the epidermal coculture system. The findings encourage the development of innovative anti-ageing products containing the oil, which is categorizable as a sustainable specialty material for photoaging treatment.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"1064-1073"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141758577","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Examining the genomic influence of topically applied probiotics in vitro","authors":"James V. Gruber,&nbsp;Robert Holtz,&nbsp;Megan Roach","doi":"10.1111/ics.12999","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12999","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Recent work examined the influence of topically applied just-add-water creams containing <i>Lactobacillus plantarum</i> probiotic cultures on to reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). The ability to blend various quiescent probiotic powders in topical systems allows for the examination of these powders on RHEs employing various individual quiescent probiotics using human gene microarrays.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Four topical Just-Add-Water powders (STRATABIOSYS™ Technologies) were prepared containing the following: (1) <i>Lactobacillus plantarum</i> Lp90 [200 M CFU/g]; (2) <i>Saccharomyces cerevisiae</i> [200 M CFU/g]; (3) <i>Streptococcus thermophilus</i> [200 M CFU/g]; and (4) <i>Lactococcus Lactis</i> LLa61 [200 M CFU/g]. A powder without probiotics was used as a placebo control. The creams were prepared by taking 3% of each powder and dissolving it into sterile water. A 15 μL sample of each cream was applied to a RHE tissue that presented approximately 90 K CFU/g of each microorganism on the tissue. The RHE was treated for 24 h with the creams whereupon the residual cream was rinsed off, and the tissues were analysed using Agilent human gene microarrays containing 19 217 individual genes from which a smaller subset of 244 genes pertinent to skin were culled.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The following probiotic specific gene responses were found: (1) <i>Lactobacillus plantarum</i> upregulated 4.9% of the skin-relevant gene set; (2) <i>Saccharomyces cerevisiae</i> upregulated 7.8% of the skin relevant gene set; <i>Streptococcus thermophilus</i> upregulated 6.1% of the skin relevant gene set; <i>Lactococcus lactis</i> upregulated 7.0% of the skin relevant gene set.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A method to examine topical probiotics on RHE has been described that involves converting the powders to preservative-free creams.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"995-1003"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12999","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141758573","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Mentha piperita leaf extract suppresses the release of ATP from epidermal keratinocytes and reduces dermal thinning as well as wrinkle formation","authors":"Yukiko Fujita,&nbsp;Kazal Boron Biswas,&nbsp;Yuka Kawai,&nbsp;Satoru Takayama,&nbsp;Teruaki Masutani,&nbsp;Arunasiri Iddamalgoda,&nbsp;Kotaro Sakamoto","doi":"10.1111/ics.12996","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12996","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Objectives&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;To achieve a more beautiful and younger appearance, reducing wrinkles is a key concern. The process of wrinkle formation is complex and the development of truly effective cosmetic ingredients to reduce wrinkles remains a challenge. Recent studies have revealed a close relationship between wrinkles and skin thinning, suggesting that preventing skin thinning could also prevent wrinkle formation. In this study, we examined the role of extracellular adenosine triphosphate (eATP) in the progression of thinning, as eATP reportedly increases skin ageing factors, such as senescence-associated secreted phenotype (SASP) factors in epidermal cells. We determined the effects of &lt;i&gt;Mentha piperita&lt;/i&gt; leaf extract on suppressing eATP to reduce thinning and wrinkles.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Methods&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) levels were measured in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) in the presence of &lt;i&gt;M. piperita&lt;/i&gt; leaf extract. Dryness, high pH, and UVB radiation were used as extrinsic ageing factors. Intrinsic skin ageing was evaluated by comparing cells from adults (AD-NHEK) and newborns (NB-NHEK). A placebo-controlled in vivo study was carried out with a formulation containing 1% &lt;i&gt;M. piperita&lt;/i&gt; leaf extract.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Results&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;The eATP levels were significantly higher in AD-NHEK compared with that in NB-NHEK cells. &lt;i&gt;M. piperita&lt;/i&gt; leaf extract significantly decreased eATP levels in adult cells. Extrinsic ageing factors increased eATP levels in NHEK, whereas &lt;i&gt;M. piperita&lt;/i&gt; leaf extract significantly suppressed eATP under all conditions. The active components of &lt;i&gt;M. piperita&lt;/i&gt; leaf extract, luteolin glucuronide and rosmarinic acid, also decreased eATP. Moreover, compared with placebo lotion, &lt;i&gt;M. piperita&lt;/i&gt; leaf extract-formulated lotion markedly increased dermal thickness and reduced wrinkles associated with crow's feet and the neck area.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;We demonstrated for the first time that &lt;i&gt;M. piperita&lt;/i&gt; leaf extract containing rosmarinic acid and luteolin-7-O-glucuronide has the potential to reduce eATP release from epidermal keratinocytes. An increase in eATP was observed not only during inflammation but also during natural ageing. Furthermore, the in vivo experiment revealing that 1% &lt;i&gt;M. piperita&lt;/i&gt; leaf extract-containing lotion improved dermal thinning and wrinkles across multiple areas is attributed to the amelioration of dermal thinning. Thus, our data suggest the possibility of a novel cosmetic approach for reducing skin ageing by reducing eATP-mediated dermal thinning.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 ","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"972-981"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141758574","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Age-dependent changes in skin features and perceived facial appearance in women of five ethnic groups","authors":"Bernhard Fink,&nbsp;Remo Campiche,&nbsp;Todd K. Shackelford,&nbsp;Rainer Voegeli","doi":"10.1111/ics.13003","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13003","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Research documents effects of skin features on assessments of age, health and attractiveness of female faces. Ethnic variation also has been reported for the impact of age-related changes in skin features on face assessments. Here, we investigate women's self-ratings across age cohorts and ethnic groups and discrepancies with (non-expert) assessor ratings of facial appearance together with age-dependent changes in skin features.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Faces of women 20–65 years from five ethnic groups (each <i>n</i> = 36) were imaged. Participants provided self-ratings of age, health and attractiveness, and were judged on these attributes by members of the same ethnic group (each <i>n</i> = 120). Digital image analysis was used to quantify skin gloss, tone evenness, wrinkling and sagging. Age-dependent changes in ratings and skin features within and between ethnic groups were assessed by comparing information from 10-year cohorts. We also tested whether menopausal status could be predicted by self-ratings, assessor ratings and image-based skin features.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Women of all ethnic groups judged themselves younger and higher in attractiveness and health compared to third-party assessors, with the largest discrepancies for age in French women and for attractiveness and health in South African women. In Indian and South African women, specular gloss and skin tone evenness were lower compared to other participants, and sagging was higher in Indian, Japanese and South African women compared to Chinese and French women. Women's menopausal status could be predicted from assessor ratings and image-based skin features but not from self-ratings.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>There are differences between women's self-ratings and assessor ratings of facial appearance. These discrepancies vary with female age and ethnicity. Age and ethnicity effects also are evident in age-dependent changes in skin features within and across ethnic groups, which together with assessor (but not self-) ratings of facial appearance predict menopausal status.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"1017-1034"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13003","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141758586","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Assessing residual fragrances on skin after body washing: Optimization of an analytical method using solid-phase microextraction coupled with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry","authors":"Areum Goh,&nbsp;Song Hee Im,&nbsp;Jung-Eun Bae,&nbsp;Yunsik Choi,&nbsp;Jeonghoon Jeon,&nbsp;Sung Hyun Im","doi":"10.1111/ics.13001","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13001","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The aim of this study is to develop and optimize a method for evaluating the persistence of residual fragrance after body washing, addressing a significant requirement in the development of personal care products. The main objective is to establish a reliable, sensitive and reproducible analytical technique to assess fragrance longevity on skin post-use of body wash products.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Headspace solid-phase microextraction (HS-SPME) coupled with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) is used to analyse residual fragrances. We investigate the extraction efficiencies of various SPME fibres and compare different methods for sampling skin-emitted fragrances, including tape stripping and sealed glass funnels. A controlled body-washing procedure is implemented to standardize the cleansing process.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Our findings indicate that the relative standard deviation for measuring five distinct fragrances is within the range of 3%–14%, highlighting the precision of the method. A notable variance exists in the extraction efficiency of fragrances using different types of SPME fibres, with some exhibiting over a threefold difference. Furthermore, the glass funnel method for fragrance collection demonstrates an 11.7 times greater sensitivity to galaxolide than that of the tape-stripping method. Residual fragrances with base notes as the main components can be detected on the skin up to 24 h after body washing.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The optimized method for residual fragrance evaluation developed in this study offers a robust tool for analysing fragrance components persisting on the skin for up to 24 h post-wash. This advancement facilitates a deeper understanding of fragrance longevity in personal care products, enabling comparative analyses between different products.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"1004-1016"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141758572","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Spectral histology of hair and hair follicle using infrared microspectroscopy","authors":"Sandt Christophe,&nbsp;Bildstein Lucien,&nbsp;Bornschlögl Thomas,&nbsp;Baghdadli Nawel,&nbsp;Thibaut Sébastien,&nbsp;Fazzino Pauline,&nbsp;Borondics Ferenc","doi":"10.1111/ics.12980","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12980","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Today, there is only limited knowledge of the spatial organization of hair chemistry. Infrared microspectroscopy is a well-established tool to provide such information and has significantly contributed to this field. In this study, we present new results combining multiple infrared microspectroscopy methods at different length scales to create a better chemical histology of human hair, including the hair follicle, hair shaft, hair medulla and hair cuticle.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We used hyperspectral IR imaging &amp; spectroscopy (HIRIS) and synchrotron-radiation FTIR microspectroscopy (SR-μFTIR) to measure transversal hair sections and SR-μFTIR to obtain high-resolution maps of longitudinal sections from the hair shaft and from the hair follicle. We used optical photothermal IR microspectroscopy (OPTIR) to analyse the cuticle surface of intact hairs.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>By mapping longitudinal sections of the human hair follicle with confocal SR-μFTIR, we report the first demonstration of glycogen presence in the outer root sheath of the hair follicle by spectroscopy, and its quantification at the micron scale. Spectral maps, combined with machine learning-based analysis, enabled us to differentiate the various layers of the hair follicle and provided insights into the chemical changes that occur during hair formation in the follicle.</p>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Using HIRIS and SR-μFTIR to analyse the hair medulla in transversal sections of human hairs, we report here, for the first time by vibrational spectroscopy methods, the detection of unsaturated lipids at very low concentrations in the medulla.</p>\u0000 \u0000 <p>By analysing longitudinal sections of the hair shaft with SR-μFTIR, we found that calcium carboxylates are present in large regions of the hair cuticle, and not just in small focal areas as previously thought. We then use OPTIR to analyse the hair cuticle of intact hairs at submicron resolution without sectioning and report the distribution of calcium carboxylates at the surface of intact hair for the first time.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>These new findings illustrate the potential of infrared microspectroscopy for imaging the chemical composition of human hair and may have implications for biomedical research or cosmetology.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"949-961"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141751650","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Using cephalopod-inspired chemistry to extend long-wavelength ultraviolet and visible light protection of mineral sunscreens","authors":"Leila F. Deravi,&nbsp;Isabel Cui,&nbsp;Camille A. Martin","doi":"10.1111/ics.12993","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12993","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The emergence of new human and environmental-related toxicity data associated with some common UV filters has catalysed growing interest in the inclusion of boosters and stabilizing ingredients in sunscreens. One approach is to incorporate alternative materials inspired by or mimetic of systems in biology, which offer a notable evolutionary advantage of multifunctionality and stability with increased biocompatibility. We describe the use of a natural product, Xanthochrome® (INCI: Ammonium Xanthommatin), in a series of studies designed to not only assess its safety with marine systems but also its formulation compatibility and function in water-in-oil mineral sunscreens. Xanthochrome is the synthetic form of the naturally occurring chromophore xanthommatin (XA) present in cephalopod skin, which doubles as a photostable antioxidant; however, it has never been explored in combination with mineral UV filters in finished formulations.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Given the recent controversies associated with the environmental toxicological effects of some chemicals used in sunscreens, the safety of XA with coral cuttings was first validated at concentrations 5× above those used in our formulations. Next, a particle-based delivery of XA was designed and incorporated into a zinc oxide (ZnO)-based water-in-oil sunscreen, where the SPF, critical wavelength, and visible light (VL) blocking potential were measured.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We observed no adverse effects of XA at 100 mg/L when tested with coral cuttings, demonstrating its safety at concentrations exceeding those used in our sunscreens. When formulated with ZnO-based sunscreens, the inclusion of XA increased the total UV absorbance profile by 28% and the total blocking potential of VL by 45%. The formulations also elicited no dermal irritation or sensitization in a human insult repeat patch test (<i>N</i> = 100 subjects).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>XA is differentiated as a photostable, water-soluble compound that is a VL booster proven safe for skin and coral cuttings. To the best of our knowledge, there are no other boosters that can be classified as such, despite a growing body of literature highlighting the need in the industry.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"941-948"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-07-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141731156","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Penetration of oils into hair","authors":"Jennifer M. Marsh,&nbsp;Shane Whitaker,&nbsp;Tim Felts,&nbsp;Chris Cowans,&nbsp;Shikhar Gupta,&nbsp;Srdan Masirevic,&nbsp;Rui Fang,&nbsp;Monique S. J. Simmonds,&nbsp;Gu Chen,&nbsp;Haibo Jiang","doi":"10.1111/ics.12978","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12978","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The objective of this work was to understand how triglyceride plant oils can deliver strength and softness benefits to hair by their penetration. These plant oils are complex mixtures of TAGs, so the initial studies performed were with pure TAGs and then these data compared to plant oils and their measured TAG compositions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>LC–MS was used to identify the di and triglycerides in coconut oil, <i>Camellia oleifera</i> oil and safflower seed oil. Penetration of these plant oils and pure individual triglycerides was measured by a differential extraction method. Cross-sections of oils treated with ¹³C-labelled triolein were studied by NanoSIMS to visualize location of triglyceride inside hair. Fatigue strength was measured using constant stress to generate a survival distribution. Models of the lipid-rich cell membrane complex (CMC) were created with the equimolar ratio of 18-methyl-eicosanoic acid (MEAS), palmitic acid (C16:0) and oleic acid (C18:1).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Penetration of the individual pure TAGs was confirmed for all chain lengths and degree of unsaturation tested with higher penetration for shorter chain lengths and unsaturated fatty acids. Detailed compositional analysis of selected plant oils showed a wide variety of TAGs and penetration was also demonstrated for these oils. NanoSIMS and modelling confirmed these TAGs are penetrating the lipid-rich CMC of hair and are interacting with the fatty acids that make up the CMC. All plant oils delivered a fatigue strength improvement by penetration into the CMC and it is proposed that these oils prevent formation and/or propagation of flaws in the CMC network that leads to breakage.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Many plant oils with a wide range of triglyceride compositions can penetrate into hair and NanoSIMS data confirmed these oils partition into the lipid-rich cell membrane complex. Penetration studies of individual TAGs shown to be present in these oils confirmed TAGs of varying chain length can penetrate and there is a correlation between increased penetration efficacy and shorter chain lengths and presence of unsaturation in the fatty acid chains. All the oils studied delivered single fibre fatigue strength benefits.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"905-917"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-06-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141456589","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Integration of transcriptomics and spatial biology analyses reveals Galactomyces ferment filtrate promotes epidermal interconnectivity via induction of keratinocyte differentiation, proliferation and cellular bioenergetics","authors":"John M. Snowball,&nbsp;Bradley B. Jarrold,&nbsp;Yvonne DeAngelis,&nbsp;Chuiying Li,&nbsp;Holly A. Rovito,&nbsp;Michelle C. Hare,&nbsp;Timothy Laughlin,&nbsp;Anna L. Evdokiou,&nbsp;John E. Oblong","doi":"10.1111/ics.12991","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12991","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Human skin is the first line of defence from environmental factors such as solar radiation and is susceptible to premature ageing, including a disruption in epidermal differentiation and homeostasis. We evaluated the impact of a <i>Galactomyces</i> Ferment Filtrate (GFF) on epidermal differentiation and response to oxidative stress.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We used transcriptomics, both spatial and traditional, to assess the impact of GFF on epidermal biology and homeostasis in keratinocytes (primary or immortalized) and in ex vivo skin explant tissue. The effect of GFF on cell adhesion rates, cellular ATP levels and proliferation rates were quantitated. Oxidative phosphorylation and glycolytic rates were measured under normal and stress-induced conditions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Transcriptomics from keratinocytes and ex vivo skin explants from multiple donors show GFF induces keratinocyte differentiation, skin barrier development and cell adhesion while simultaneously repressing cellular stress and inflammatory related processes. Spatial transcriptomics profiling of ex vivo skin indicated basal keratinocytes at the epidermal-dermal junction and cornifying keratinocytes in the top layer of the epidermis as the primary cell types influenced by GFF treatment. Additionally, GFF significantly increases crosstalk between suprabasal and basal keratinocytes. To support these findings, we show that GFF can significantly increase cell adhesion and proliferation in keratinocytes. GFF also protected overall cellular bioenergetics under metabolic or oxidative stress conditions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Our findings provide novel insights into cellular differences and epidermal spatial localization in response to GFF, supporting previous findings that this filtrate has a significant impact on epidermal biology and homeostasis, particularly on spatially defined crosstalk. We propose that GFF can help maintain epidermal health by enhancing keratinocyte crosstalk and differentiation/proliferation balance as well as promoting an enhanced response to stress.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"927-940"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-06-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12991","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141456587","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Methylsulfonylmethane promotes melanogenesis via activation of JNK in Mel-Ab cells","authors":"In Wook Kim,&nbsp;Woo-Jae Park,&nbsp;Hye-Young Yun,&nbsp;Dong-Seok Kim","doi":"10.1111/ics.12988","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12988","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM), which contains organic sulphur, has been used for a long time as a medicinal ingredient because of its benefits to human health. MSM is reported to be protective against certain skin disorders, but it is unknown whether it affects melanin synthesis. Therefore, in our current research, we examined the possibility of MSM controlling the production of melanin in Mel-Ab melanocytes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In Mel-Ab cells, melanin contents and tyrosinase activities were assessed and quantified. The expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase was evaluated using western blot analysis, while MSM-induced signalling pathways were investigated.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The MSM treatment significantly resulted in a dose-dependent increase in melanin production. Furthermore, MSM elevated melanin-related proteins, including MITF and tyrosinase. However, the rate-limiting enzyme of melanin production, tyrosinase, was not directly influenced by it. Therefore, we investigated potential melanogenesis-related signalling pathways that may have been triggered by MSM. Our findings showed that MSM did not influence the signalling pathways associated with glycogen synthase kinase 3β, cAMP response-element binding protein, extracellular signal-regulated kinase, or p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase. However, MSM phosphorylated c-Jun N-terminal kinases/stress-activated protein kinase (JNK/SAPK), which is known to induce melanogenesis. SP600125, a specific JNK inhibitor, inhibited MSM-induced melanogenesis.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Taken together, our study indicates that MSM induces melanin synthesis and may serve as a therapeutic option for hypopigmentary skin disorders such as vitiligo.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"918-926"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-06-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12988","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141456588","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}