International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

{"title":"A new in vitro approach for determining the water resistance of sunscreen products, validated by a blinded ring test","authors":"M. Pissavini,&nbsp;F. Pouradier,&nbsp;G. Wiener,&nbsp;M. Contier,&nbsp;L. Kolbe,&nbsp;L. Nogueira,&nbsp;P. Lapalud,&nbsp;G. Renner,&nbsp;P. J. Matts","doi":"10.1111/ics.13074","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13074","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Despite limited consumer understanding of sunscreen labelling, product choice remains primarily driven by the labelled Sun Protection Factor (SPF), alongside UVA protection and water resistance claims. To ensure the reliability of these key parameters, validated and reproducible testing methods are essential. In response to recent ISO publications on in vivo water resistance evaluation, the Cosmetics Europe Sun Protection Methods Task Force has initiated the development of a robust in vitro alternative. Current in vitro approaches are based on thin-film UV transmittance techniques, but their accuracy is highly sensitive to film homogeneity, both during application and after immersion. It has been shown that immersion can induce film rearrangement, altering UV absorbance without necessarily reducing active ingredient content. This may lead to atypical results, including apparent increases in SPF values post-immersion. Here, in a ring-testing approach, we investigate a new method for determining the in vitro water resistance of sunscreen products. This study aims to identify the most robust and predictive in vitro alternative, contributing to the development of a standardized and scientifically reliable method for water resistance assessment in sunscreen products.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"851-863"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-05-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144101850","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Pleiotropic effects of a Camellia sinensis leaf extract on in vitro and in vivo skin health characteristics","authors":"Daniel D. Shill,&nbsp;Hannah N. Stade,&nbsp;Kayla C. Goodson,&nbsp;Monica A. Beltran,&nbsp;Deana Haller,&nbsp;Meg Benson,&nbsp;Maureen D. Drumwright,&nbsp;Durant Scholz","doi":"10.1111/ics.13073","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13073","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;div&gt;\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Objective&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Green tea extracts are utilized widely within the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries given the large amount of evidence supporting a diverse range of health benefits. The cosmetic effects of green tea extracts depend on manufacturing methods, and a viable green tea extract exhibiting a diverse functional portfolio to meet consumer demands for comprehensive skin benefits is lacking. To fully capture the diverse nature of skincare products, a novel assay was developed to identify the impact of green tea extracts on the relationship between immune cell function and dermal microorganisms. Accordingly, the present study investigated the effect of a &lt;i&gt;Camellia sinensis&lt;/i&gt; Leaf Extract (CSLE) on in vitro mechanisms and in vivo indicators of skin health and well-being. This study provides the first evidence of CSLE's immunomodulatory properties on skin microorganisms via dendritic cell signalling molecules, in addition to enhancing relaxation through alpha brainwave activity with topical CSLE application.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Methods&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;In vitro and &lt;i&gt;in chemico&lt;/i&gt; pre-clinical experiments were implemented to determine the immunomodulatory, detoxification, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of CSLE. Additionally, in vivo clinical studies were performed to examine the impact of topical CSLE application on acute and residual mood states, skin hydration, barrier function, rejuvenation and facial skin health.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Results&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Pre-clinical investigations illustrated CSLE augmented the ability of signalling molecules released from dendritic cells to kill detrimental microorganisms while maintaining commensal microorganisms commonly found on the skin. Furthermore, CSLE increased cellular detoxification, reduced inflammation and exhibited potent antioxidant capacity. Regarding clinical studies, acute topical CSLE application enhanced relaxation and improved residual feelings of self-worth and mood while augmenting skin hydration, barrier function and rejuvenation. Moreover, long-term CSLE application improved facial skin health and lowered skin age.&lt;/p&gt;\u0000 &lt;/section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;section&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;h3&gt; Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;\u0000 \u0000 &lt;p&gt;Collectively, CSLE retains detoxification, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties while improving mood states, skin hydration, skin barrier function, skin rejuvenation and facial skin health. Notably, we provide the first evidence of CSLE's immunomodulatory properties on skin microorganisms via dendritic cell signalling molecules, in addition to enhancing relaxation through alpha brainwave activity with topical CSLE application. Overall, the present","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"835-850"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-05-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144110564","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"n-3 PUFAs docosahexaenoic acid and eicosapentaenoic acid are effective natural pro-resolution ingredients for topical skin applications","authors":"John Nip,&nbsp;Kevin Hermanson,&nbsp;Jian-ming Lee","doi":"10.1111/ics.13068","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13068","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Skin encounters many challenges that lead to an inflammatory response. Resolution of this inflammation is needed to return the skin to a healthy state. A review of the role of topical n-3 PUFAs, particularly DHA and EPA, in resolving skin inflammation and promoting skin health is presented. A review of the literature and Unilever data on DHA/EPA pro-resolution skin benefits. PubMed/MEDLINE, Google search of external literature as well as Unilever data relating to skin inflammation, pro-resolution, and the role of DHA and EPA. Evidence of DHA and EPA in providing pro-resolution of skin inflammation are summarized. DHA and EPA, and their derived specialized pro-resolving mediators (SPMs), can attenuate the skin inflammatory response induced by various stressors and maintain skin health.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"820-826"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-04-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13068","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143997912","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Development of the Hair & Scalp CARE questionnaire: Measuring the impact of hair and scalp issues on psychological wellbeing in healthy populations","authors":"Alice Newton-Fenner,&nbsp;William M. Hirst,&nbsp;Therese Jones,&nbsp;Margaret Scott,&nbsp;Carl Roberts,&nbsp;Monique A. M. Smeets,&nbsp;Jeremy Shen,&nbsp;Anna Thomas,&nbsp;Timo Giesbrecht","doi":"10.1111/ics.13070","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13070","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Haircare cosmetic products are commonly reported to have a positive impact on psychological wellbeing. These effects are attributed to increased feelings of confidence and improved self-esteem facilitated by improved hair and scalp condition. However, the causal relationship between hair and scalp health and psychological wellbeing is under-researched. This paper reports the results of an extensive survey of haircare consumers in diverse populations using an exploratory Hair &amp; Scalp CARE (Condition and Affective Response Evaluations) questionnaire.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Method</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Participants (<i>N</i> = 1184) completed an online 23-item questionnaire designed to capture hair and scalp-related wellbeing as an initial exploratory validation of Hair &amp; Scalp CARE. For the analysis, the data were randomly split into 2 equal samples; Sample 1 provided the data for the initial exploratory factor analysis, and Sample 2 was used for confirmatory factor analysis. Participants also provided demographic information and completed the Sleep Health Index (SHI) and Perceived Stress Scale (PSS) to investigate sleep health and perceived stress.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Factor analysis provided a one-factor solution, explaining 55% of the variance. The final version of the Hair &amp; Scalp CARE questionnaire consisted of 21 items. The one-factor structure was supported by confirmatory factor analysis. Correlational analyses demonstrated that higher scores on Hair &amp; Scalp CARE were also associated with lower PSS scores and higher SHI scores.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The Hair &amp; Scalp CARE questionnaire is a valid tool for the assessment of the impact of hair and scalp condition on psychological wellbeing. The present data also suggest a relationship between hair and scalp wellbeing and other psychological wellbeing indicators, as healthier hair and scalp was also linked to lower levels of perceived stress and good sleep health. Hair &amp; Scalp CARE could be used within a variety of further research designs to demonstrate the positive impact of cosmetic haircare products on wellbeing.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"807-819"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-04-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13070","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143998971","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Mining bioactive components in agricultural crop and food production residue for sustainable solutions: In silico screening for skin anti-ageing properties","authors":"Senka Vidović,&nbsp;Milan Ilić,&nbsp;Jelena Nakomčić,&nbsp;Nataša Nastić,&nbsp;Jelena Kvrgić,&nbsp;Xuanpeng Song,&nbsp;Dimitar Jakimov,&nbsp;Aleksandra Jovanović Galović,&nbsp;Nataša Lješković Jovanović,&nbsp;Mire Zloh","doi":"10.1111/ics.13059","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13059","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Possible sustainable resources of beneficial compounds for various applications are agricultural crop and food production residues (ACFPR), which are supported by considerable efforts to characterize their compositions and biological activities. This knowledge can be utilized for the rational selection of agricultural crop residue extracts and their components and possible use in the development of value-added products, such as anti-ageing cosmetics. The appearance of wrinkles, pigmentation, and a reduction in skin elasticity are typical signs of ageing skin that are often alleviated by natural product-based preparations. Here, we use in silico approaches to identify natural compounds from agricultural crop and food production residues with the potential to alleviate symptoms of or reverse the skin ageing process. Target predictions combined with extensive database and literature searches were utilized to identify compounds present in ACR and proteins linked to skin ageing. The binding affinity of natural products to selected proteins using molecular docking and the respective intermolecular interaction analyses are predicted to provide an indicative measure of the compounds' potential for skin anti-ageing activity. A number of natural compounds with the potential to interact with protein targets such as collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase were identified. In addition to in silico findings, cytotoxicity assays were conducted using rose hip seed extracts against Hs294T (human metastatic melanoma, ATCC HTB-140) and MRC-5 (normal fetal lung fibroblasts, ATCC CCL 171), demonstrating selective cytotoxicity. ELISA assays revealed that rose hip seed extracts induced a significant increase in SIRT1 levels (160% of control) and a reduction in TGF-β levels (80% of control). These experimental results support the potential of agricultural crop residue extracts in modulating key proteins involved in skin ageing, reinforcing their viability as ingredients in anti-ageing cosmetic formulations. An analysis of the molecular relationships and pathways that organic substances from sustainable sources can affect offers the potential for developing formulations for skin rejuvenation with possible synergistic effects by utilizing the rational design of innovative skincare products and laying the framework for more effective screening of anti-ageing compounds for different applications.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"793-806"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-04-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13059","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143984871","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A non-invasive way to enhance cosmetic efficacy by associating a cosmetic serum with a nanochip tapping","authors":"Chengda Ye,&nbsp;Chunyao Lu,&nbsp;Frederic Flament,&nbsp;Jing Li,&nbsp;Gaurav Agarwal,&nbsp;Gregoire Charraud,&nbsp;Angelike Galdi,&nbsp;David Amar,&nbsp;Wei Liu,&nbsp;Qing Lv,&nbsp;Bai Xu,&nbsp;Guive Balooch,&nbsp;Maxime De Boni","doi":"10.1111/ics.13056","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13056","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Skincare cosmetics have long been central to daily facial care routines, while recent years have seen a surge in the popularity of home beauty devices. Consumers increasingly seek more effective and efficient results from their beauty regimens while also expressing concerns about the potential risks of certain beauty procedures. Although various technological devices have been developed to meet these demands, research on the interactions between beauty devices and cosmetic products remains limited.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This in vivo study was conducted on 60 Chinese women of different ages and skin types. An assessment of the impact of a specific home beauty device, used after a standalone referential and marketed anti-ageing serum, on enhancing facial skin attributes (wrinkles, fine lines, radiance and hydration) was conducted. The device—a nanochip tapping tool with an ultra-fine surface—was evaluated alongside the serum under a half-face protocol. The study compared the efficacy of serum application alone to that achieved with the combined serum-device regimen.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Marked reduction in ageing signs was reported for the serum alone, particularly for wrinkles (<i>p</i> &lt; 0.001), fine lines (<i>p</i> &lt; 0.001), radiance (<i>p</i> &lt; 0.001) and hydration (<i>p</i> &lt; 0.001) after 8 weeks. When paired with the nanochip device, efficacy was significantly amplified and enhanced global wrinkle reduction, nasolabial fold smoothness and firmness. There were no adverse effects on SC integrity, confirming that the serum–nanochip application preserved the integrity of the skin. All subjects found the nanochip easy to use and indicated perceived benefits.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The present study showed that the use of a nano-needle tapping device led to significantly enhanced global efficacy on some age-related facial signs under safe and skin-friendly conditions. This study highlights that the dual focus on merging both efficacy and safety was not only effective but also safe for use, thereby setting a solid foundation for future research and development.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"780-792"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-04-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144011000","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Overcoming challenges in the development of cosmetic formulations with agro-industrial by-products: The case of cork powder","authors":"Sandra Mota,&nbsp;Ana Torres,&nbsp;Paulo Silva,&nbsp;Joana Rocha e Silva,&nbsp;Agostinho Almeida,&nbsp;Ricardo N. M. J. Páscoa,&nbsp;Helena N. Ferreira,&nbsp;Ana Silva,&nbsp;Maria Teresa Cruz,&nbsp;Isabel Martins de Almeida","doi":"10.1111/ics.13066","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13066","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Consumer's growing environmental awareness influences purchasing behaviour, prompting the cosmetics industry to adopt sustainable practices based on a circular economy, using agro-industrial by-products as cosmetic ingredients. This study assessed the feasibility of using cork powder, an abundant by-product of the cork industry, as a cosmetic ingredient. Key challenges were identified, and effective solutions were proposed for integrating cork powder into cosmetic products.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To obtain a suitable ingredient, cork powder was subjected to physical treatment. The resulting heat-treated powder was further characterized for particle size, colour, moisture content, hygroscopicity, pH, oil absorption capacity and heavy metal content. The stability of cork powder, both as a stand-alone ingredient and incorporated into a makeup formulation, was evaluated over 90 days, and its safety was assessed in human keratinocytes and a 3D EpiSkin™ model.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Cork powder exhibited a brownish colour, low moisture content (3.03 ± 0.42%) and hygroscopic properties (9.04 ± 0.08%), along with high oil absorption capacity (206.93 ± 2.33 g/100 g) and acceptable heavy metals levels, considering the intended use as cosmetic (As = 0.350 ± 0.020 ppm; Cd = 0.086 ± 0.003 ppm; Hg = 0.005 ± 0.001 ppm; Pb = 1.420 ± 0.030 ppm), which remained stable for at least 90 days. The safety of the powder for skin application was also ensured up to at least 5% content. Using 2% cork powder in O/W formulations provided a colour shade suitable for makeup foundations and remained stable over the 90-day study period.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Key challenges in transforming cork by-products into cosmetic ingredients include the standardization of the preparation process, batch uniformity and suitable microbiological burden. Sieving, washing, filtration and heat treatment of cork powder reduced microbial burden and improved batch uniformity. Industrial processing did not introduce contaminants, with heavy metal levels remaining below regulatory limits for cosmetic use. The treatment and storage conditions adopted preserved the physicochemical properties, and pre-formulation and stability studies validated its potential as a sustainable innovative ingredient for decorative and mattifying cosmetics. Transforming by-products into cosmetic ingredients is a stepwise process that must be carefully carried out to ensure optimal performance.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"768-779"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-04-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144007540","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Correlation study of facial lipid profile differences and skin physiological characteristics in Chinese women aged 19–33 years","authors":"Yumei Fan,&nbsp;Chunhua Wei,&nbsp;Ning Su,&nbsp;Yanyun Ma,&nbsp;Wei Liu,&nbsp;Peiwen Sun,&nbsp;Shuo Shan","doi":"10.1111/ics.13065","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13065","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Changes in the stratum corneum (SC) lipid profiles are associated with various skin diseases. Factors, including age, ethnicity, season and anatomical location, can influence the variations in SC lipid profiles. According to reports, the facial sebum of Chinese women peaks at age 20–30, accompanied by various signs of facial ageing. No studies have investigated how facial SC lipid profiles change with age in young Chinese women.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objectives</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study aimed to observe the differences in the facial SC lipid profiles of Chinese female volunteers aged 19<b>–</b>33 and determined the relationship between key lipids and physiological parameters.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Differential lipids were detected and screened in healthy Chinese women aged 19<b>–</b>33 through ultra-performance liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry. The relationship between these lipids and the skin's physiological parameters was determined.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The facial SC lipid profiles of young Chinese women exhibited significant differences with age. The results indicated that 40 lipids increased with age, while 51 types decreased. The average chain length of diglycerides (DG), triglycerides (TG) and short-chain ceramides decreased with age, while cholesterol esters (CE) and ceramides {Cer, Cer/EODS (d19:0/18:1/O/16:0) and Cer/EOS (d28:1/12:0/O/14:0)} increased with age.</p>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Cer/EODS (d19:0/18:1/O/16:0), Cer/EOS (d28:1/12:0/O/14:0) and HexCer/NDS (d14:0/33:1) were positively correlated with trans-epidermal water loss, skin elasticity and skin brightness, while Cer/AP (t18:0/20:0) was negatively correlated with skin elasticity. This study comprehensively explains the differences in lipid profile composition and skin ageing in young populations.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Young Chinese women's facial skin SC lipid profiles significantly change with age. Age-related changes result in variations in DG and CE levels and changes in the chain lengths of TG and Cer. Age-related changes in Cer content affect skin barrier function, elasticity and brightness.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"752-767"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-04-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13065","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143802873","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Collagen type V alpha 3 chain is involved in human skin basement membrane physiology and MMP-9 regulation","authors":"Florian Labarrade,&nbsp;Imane Garcia,&nbsp;Isabelle Imbert","doi":"10.1111/ics.13062","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13062","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Collagens are widely studied proteins given their implications in the skin extracellular matrix and pathological conditions such as fibrosis. Type V collagen is a member of the fibrillar collagens, and three different polypeptide chains, α1, α2 and α3 form isoforms through associations. The third chain, α3, of type V collagen was initially identified in the placenta, but after decades, it remains poorly characterized. The aim of this study is to investigate the expression and localization of the α3 chain of type V collagen in the skin and its evolution during skin aging. The identification of α3(V) collagen as a target of retinoic acid and its interaction with matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) was investigated.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The expression and localization of α3(V) collagen were assessed by immunodetection in ex vivo skin and in keratinocytes using a calcium-differentiated model. The variation in α3(V) collagen expression during aging was studied in ex vivo skin from donors of different ages. The modulation of α3(V) collagen by retinoic acid was investigated by qPCR in keratinocytes and by immunofluorescence in ex vivo skin biopsies. Silencing of α3(V) collagen was performed using siRNA. The expression of MMP-9 was investigated using qPCR.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In our study, we showed that α3(V) collagen was abundantly produced by basal skin keratinocytes and in the outer root sheath of the hair. α3(V) collagen expression appears to decrease with age in the skin and in differentiated keratinocytes. We also identified that treatment of keratinocytes and ex vivo skin biopsies with retinoic acid induced α3(V) collagen expression. Finally, we showed that inhibition of α3(V) collagen in keratinocytes led to an increase in MMP-9 expression.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study provides a better understanding of α3(V) collagen expression and localization in the skin. These findings suggest that α3(V) collagen could contribute to the therapeutic and anti-aging value of retinoic acid on the skin and may open new prospects. Finally, our data shed more light on the functional relationship between α3(V) collagen and MMP-9, opening possibilities for anti-aging and eczema treatments.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"743-751"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-04-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143779963","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Hair perming via thiol-Michael click reaction: A strategy to avoid oxidative damage","authors":"Kuan Chang,&nbsp;Yuwen Wu,&nbsp;Zezhi Liu,&nbsp;Ling Ma,&nbsp;Timson Chen,&nbsp;Zhizhen Li,&nbsp;Ya Chen,&nbsp;Jing Wang","doi":"10.1111/ics.13063","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13063","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objectives</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Oxidative agents used in conventional hair perming damage hair fibres. This study proposes a novel perming approach employing 1,4-butylenediamine bismaleimide (1,4-BB) as a cross linking agent via thiol-Michael click chemistry to avoid oxidative harm. The perming performance and effects on hair fibre properties were investigated and compared.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>1,4-BB was synthesized via an acylation reaction and evaluated for cytotoxicity using the MTT assay. Perming efficiency was compared on reduced hair cross linked by 3 wt% H₂O₂, 6 wt% NaBrO₃ and 0.5 wt% 1,4-BB, respectively. Chemical changes during different perming methods were analysed via Raman spectroscopy, fluorescence microscopy, XRD and FT-IR characterization. Perming efficiency and durability were evaluated and explained by calculating the -SH connection ratio via X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. Mechanical properties, colour and surface properties of hair samples permed by different methods were evaluated and compared.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>1,4-BB was successfully prepared and exhibited no cytotoxicity over a wide concentration range. Click perming using 1,4-BB exhibited comparable perming efficiency and superior durability compared to oxidative perming methods. Higher <i>α</i>-helix keratin content and reduced sulfonate formation contributed to the preservation of hair mechanical properties. Click perming also benefited from the preservation of hair colour and surface properties, including morphology and hydrophobicity.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Thiol-Michael click perming offers a non-oxidative alternative with reduced hair damage and enhanced perming durability.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"718-729"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-04-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"143772181","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}