{"title":"SWOT Framework Based on Fuzzy Logic, AHP, and Fuzzy TOPSIS for Sustainable Retail Second-hand Clothing in Liberia","authors":"Peter Davis Sumo, Xiaofen Ji, Liling Cai","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0050","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0050","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The fast-fashion business model is marred by high resource consumption and enormous emission of greenhouse gases. It is based on inaccurate forecasts, resulting in excess supply than demand. Globally, 85% of two-week-old garments end up as unfashionable or worn-out items that must be discarded as waste, disposed of for recycling, or donated to charities. With this colossal increase in textile waste, resource efficiency is one of the biggest challenges facing the fashion industry, which now calls for a swift implementation of a new sustainable business and consumption model to extend product life cycles. This demand for sustainable consumption encourages consumers to reuse, recycle and resell. The resell campaign known as second-hand clothing is a growing market worldwide. Current global forecasts predict a 185% increase over the next ten years, compared to FF, which will expand by just 20%. Africa is a top destination, with more than 80% of its population wearing SHCs. We contribute to this literature by assessing the significance of SHC trade in Liberia. We extend this assessment by developing a hybrid MCDM tool incorporating AHP, fuzzy logic, Ensemble, and TOPSIS to build a SWOT framework to identify criteria and sub-criteria for prioritizing SHC retailing in Liberia and Africa. Data for this study were gathered from a survey involving 100 SHC retailers from the Red-Light, Waterside, Duala, and Omega markets in Monrovia, Liberia. We identified several important factors in implementing sustainable SHC and recommended strategic directions towards their successful implementation.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"30 1","pages":"27 - 44"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45506604","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Study on the Influence of Elastic Compression Pants Elasticity and Movement Speed on Human Joint Protection","authors":"Ningfeng Zhang, Chengxia Liu","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0055","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0055","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The aim of this study was to clarify how human movement speed and pants elasticity affect the athletic performance of knee joint protection by testing pants with different elastic properties: CP1 (tight pants) and CP2&CP3 (elastic compression pants), which reinforce the knee joint. In addition, CS (cotton sport pants) was developed as a control garment. Three subjects wore CP1, CP2, CP3 and CS while running on the treadmill at three kinds of human movement speed. A three-dimensional motion capture instrument was used to capture the three-dimensional trajectory of the marked points of lower limbs. As a result, the influence of the movement speed on the kinematic parameters (AKJ & gait cycle) was more obvious than the fabric elasticity. If elastic pants are worn during running, the change of AKJ will be stable with the increase of speed. When non-elastic pants are worn, the effect is opposite. Not only that, elastic compression pants are efficient in reducing the motion amplitude of the knee joint during the suspension period as far as 41°, making it highly practical in terms of stability. That is, the elastic fabric can protect the joints when the lower limbs are in motion. Moreover, with the increase of speed and elasticity, the elastic pants can reduce the gait cycle by up to 22% compared with non-elastic pants alone. Through the kinematics mechanism of human joints, these findings may translate into an effect on protective performance and a reduction in sport injuries. Therefore, it is necessary to wear elastic pants, especially compression pants, when running at higher speed, as the average gait cycle gradually decreases. This research shows that the knee joint protection functions of elastic compression garments differ according to the level of elasticity and differential movement speed, providing theoretical support for designing and producing elastic compression pants. It also acts as a guide for the research of lower limb joint protection.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"30 1","pages":"80 - 90"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44000265","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Cultural Interaction: The Transformation of Textile design for Traditional Cheongsam in the Republic of China","authors":"Jingnan Zhang, Yi Zhang, Rongrong Cui","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0049","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0049","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper aims to discuss the artistic characteristics of traditional cheongsam and the transformation that has taken place in cheongsam textile design in the Republic of China. By analysing a collection consisting of 259 traditional cheongsam material samples in various museums such as the China Silk Archives in Suzhou, we explored the transformation of cheongsam textile design during the Republic of China from the perspective of Eastern and Western art cultural exchanges and explored the spread of Western artistic thought in China. Our research shows that, firstly, with the development of industrialization, the traditional cheongsam textile business absorbed new design concepts; secondly, in terms of material selection and pattern style, it widened the range of fabrics used and broke the monotony of traditional Chinese patterns. Moreover, it reduced connotations of social class implied by traditional textile design. Finally, these textile designs reflect the progress that has been made in the development of this artistic trend and the cultural fusion of Eastern and Western arts during the Republic of China.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"30 1","pages":"19 - 26"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42278471","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"An Ergonomic Design Process of the Functional Clothing for Yoga Sports","authors":"Mengmeng Zhao, Zhaoli Wang","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0052","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0052","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Reports attribute many physical, psychological and mental benefits to yoga sports. However, when it comes to actual research, yoga clothing has not attracted the same level of attention. The aim of this study, which involved a questionnaire survey, clothing development and clothing performance evaluation, is to propose an ergonomic design process for the design of yoga functional clothing. Results showed that textile material was rated as the most important factor for yoga clothing. The shoulder and the waist-belly regions were considered as the most important areas for yoga clothing. The newly designed clothing prototype was observed to subject significantly lower pressure to the waist under the forward bending pose (p<0.05), but with significantly higher pressure on the buttocks at the posture of the deep knee bending pose (p<0.05). It also resulted in a lower change rate of clothing vertical displacement, especially at the shoulder and waist regions. The newly designed prototype was rated with a significantly lower tightening sensation and pulling sensation during the deep knee bending posture (p<0.05). Results indicate that proper design of yoga clothing structure and selection of fabric material could reduce clothing deformation, pressure on the skin and improve subjective wearing sensations.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"30 1","pages":"55 - 66"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45047540","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Thermoplastic Polyurethane Based on the 3d Printing Fashion Clothing-Conceptual Model of The Fashion Industry","authors":"Muhammad Ilias Hossen, Chaoxia Wang","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0047","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0047","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The application of 3D printing technology has been relatively slow in the fashion industry. Both in the fashion industry and in 3D printing, the material used plays a very important role. In this direction, thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) is one material that has started to grab the attention of researchers, producers, and customers. While many have studied 3D printing technology using thermoplastic polyurethane material in the fashion industry from different perspectives, fewer researchers have addressed the actual adoption of thermoplastic polyurethane based 3D printing in the fashion industry. Thus, the present research has been focused to propose an adoption model for thermoplastic polyurethane based 3D-printed fashion clothes. Factor analysis was conducted to find and analyse the most relevant factors. Further exploratory factor analysis was conducted to test the proposed model. The study proposed a model for adoption based on four factors: motivation to buy, customer attitude, and the challenges and benefits associated with the adoption of thermoplastic polyurethane based 3-D printed fashion clothes.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"30 1","pages":"1 - 11"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44797262","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Jiahao Lan, Pei Feng, Junping Zhang, Ronggen Zhang, Chongchang Yang
{"title":"Design Of the Tension Mechanism Of a Knotter And Optimization Of the Motion Parameters","authors":"Jiahao Lan, Pei Feng, Junping Zhang, Ronggen Zhang, Chongchang Yang","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0048","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0048","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Currently, the knotting of chemical fiber filament packages in factories primarily comprises manual operations. It also has a high labor intensity and is subject to artificial subjective factors, due to which it is difficult to guarantee the quality of the finished fiber products. Furthermore, it also significantly restricts the intelligent construction of chemical fiber production. This work employs partially oriented yarn (POY) and full draw yarn (FDY) to develop an automatic knotting device. The catenary theory was used to confirm the state of the yarn and to determine the relevant parameters of the tension mechanism. The results showed that the developed automatic knotting device satisfactorily meets the conditions required for manual knotting. The curve equation that was calculated using the catenary conformations of the yarn state verified that the actual yarn state was consistent with the theory. Moreover, the work provides a theoretical foundation for subsequent mechanism optimizations.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"30 1","pages":"12 - 18"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45223952","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Effects of Bikram Yoga Clothes on EEG Beta Spectrum","authors":"Hyojeong Lee, Yejin Lee","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0051","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0051","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This study analyzes how the beta index, which is closely related to alertness, caution, concentration, anxiety, and tension in brain activity, varies before and after practicing yoga. Electroencephalogram (EEG) and subjective evaluations were conducted on healthy female yoga trainers with over three years of experience; participants wore yoga clothes with differing characteristics in a hot environment. Repeated ANOVA measurements were conducted on the data by deriving the difference between the corresponding sample t-test pre- and post-yoga. After yoga, concentration increased, while alertness, anxiety, and excitement decreased depending on the yoga clothes. The clothing combination that offered higher pressure and greater absorption, and enhanced concentration while lowering excitation and anxiety increased beta waves the most. The design characteristics of yoga clothes influence beta power for concentration and arousal after yoga practice. Through EEG measurements, it was possible to explore the mental states resulting from wearing clothes suitable for yoga.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"30 1","pages":"45 - 54"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46287747","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Assessment of Kernmantle Ropes in terms of Sheath Slippage: Method and Results","authors":"K. Baszczyński","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0053","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0053","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Worksites at height require the protection of workers during both movement and task performance. The rope access technique involves the simultaneous use of working and backup textile rope systems. Currently, kernmantle ropes are most often used in conjunction with mechanisms that move along them and lock at the right moment. However, this mode of operation has a destructive effect on the rope. Ropes must therefore meet a number of specific requirements, one of the most important of which is sheath slippage. The paper presents a method for testing this parameter based on the requirements of EN standards, including the design and implementation of a test stand and a method for the verification of its operation. Test results for 11 types of ropes are presented and discussed. The paper also provides some guidelines for conducting tests.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"30 1","pages":"67 - 73"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47344111","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Sigitas Vėjelis, S. Vaitkus, Audronė Sankauskaitė, A. Kremensas, Jurga Šeputytė Jucikė
{"title":"Textile Waste from Woollen Yarn Production as Raw Materials for Thermal Insulation Products","authors":"Sigitas Vėjelis, S. Vaitkus, Audronė Sankauskaitė, A. Kremensas, Jurga Šeputytė Jucikė","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0039","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0039","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In the current research, waste from woollen yarn production was analysed. Woollen yarn waste as raw material was used for the production of soft thermal insulation mats. Two types of mats were produced in a textile plant: thermally untreated and thermally treated. Properties such as the fibre composition, structure, and thermal conductivity of the thermally untreated and thermally treated mats were studied. During the composition analysis of the woollen yarn waste, the quantity of long, medium length, and short fibres was determined. The content of fats, salts, and other organic and synthetic impurities was investigated. The micro and macrostructures and contact zones between the fibres and the binding material were analysed. The dependences of the thermal conductivity on the density of the thermally untreated and thermally treated composites were obtained.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":" ","pages":"8 - 16"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48876589","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Motives in Online Shopping through Digital Platforms in Textile: Risk Perception and Purchase Intention","authors":"Gülden Turhan","doi":"10.2478/ftee-2022-0038","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0038","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This study aims to provide a great deal of insight into how risk perception and purchase intention differ for the consumer with different online shopping motives. Data were collected through a questionnaire with 359 voluntary consumers aged 18–28 living in Istanbul. 14 motives leading them to online shopping through digital platforms for textile products were defined with the focus group technique. First, clustering analysis was conducted to define consumers according to the guiding motives in online shopping. Next, whether the consumer segments identified by these motives have different levels of risk perception and purchase intention was investigated via ANOVA analysis.","PeriodicalId":12309,"journal":{"name":"Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":" ","pages":"1 - 7"},"PeriodicalIF":0.9,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49105651","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}