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Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture最新文献

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Unmasking the Pandemic: From Personal Protection to Personal Expression 揭开大流行的面纱:从个人保护到个人表达
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-05-27 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2070987
M. K. Hughes
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引用次数: 0
Queer: Stories from the NGV Collection 酷儿:NGV收藏中的故事
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-05-18 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2074133
Sally Gray
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引用次数: 0
In America: A Lexicon of Fashion 《在美国:时尚词典
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-05-03 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2073977
Michael Vanicek
{"title":"In America: A Lexicon of Fashion","authors":"Michael Vanicek","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2073977","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2073977","url":null,"abstract":"In America: A Lexicon of Fashion, the first of a two-part exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, attempts to develop a vocabulary to address the evocative qualities of American fashion since the 1940s. The exhibition comprises approximately 100 ensembles classified and subdivided amongst twelve emotional themes (Nostalgia, Belonging, Delight, Assurance, Desire, Strength, Comfort, Confidence, Affinity, Wonder, Joy and Consciousness) in order to consider how is fashion ‘spoken’ in America. A Lexicon is inspired by and conceptually modelled upon the quilt, a staple of American folk tradition and a metaphor of diversity, with the exhibits arranged by likeness in shadow boxes. The quantity is impressive, the relations thoughtful and the definitions nuanced, but the succession of identically presented exhibits can be overwhelming, if not monotonous. At the same time, the exhibition feels somewhat abridged, with the promise of a more spectacular Part Two weighing on the galleries. Nevertheless, In America: A Lexicon of Fashion succeeds in providing a vocabulary that one naturally falls into when considering the American fashion on display and in asking the most time-tested, à propos question that has shaped the nation since even before its founding: Who gets to be American?","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"1135 - 1148"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48612734","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Toward a Frigid Body: Minimalist Fashion and the Sinthomosexual in China 走向冰冷的身体：极简主义时尚与中国的深情厚谊
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-05-03 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2069074
Yingzi Hu
{"title":"Toward a Frigid Body: Minimalist Fashion and the Sinthomosexual in China","authors":"Yingzi Hu","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2069074","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2069074","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The emergence of “the frigid style,” namely the appellation of minimalist fashion in China, is synchronized with a heightened national policy that aims at boosting reproduction and compensating for an aging society—a new phase of China’s sexual revolution since the economic reform in the late 1970s. This article argues that the frigid style, incarnating sexual aloofness, is a bodily defense against the discursive reconstruction of body for a reproductive agenda. The frigidly dressed body is not a conspicuous manifesto against biopolitics; instead, it incorporates the Chinese ideal of security and nobility. Articulated in the pursuit of security is a persona of nothingness safe from the normative discourses of ideal citizenship, while in nobility a fantasized western lifestyle that disregards the limitations on gender, class and race. Moreover, the rise of frigid style is accompanied by the popularization of what Lee Edelman calls “sinthomosexuality,” namely sex without any impetus of reproduction. The sinthomosexual outlook on bodily autonomy and agency connotes a new subjectivity in China—the construction of subjects appealing for apoliticality. This apolitical subjectivity might furnish us with a critical lens to look at normcore fashion across the globe.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"269 - 293"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41387785","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
The Esthetics of Cosplay 角色扮演的美学
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-04-25 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2065783
Yuchen Guo
{"title":"The Esthetics of Cosplay","authors":"Yuchen Guo","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2065783","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2065783","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper aims to investigate cosplay—an activity in which participants wear costumes to portray a fictional character. Firstly, I conceptually distinguish cosplay from onstage acting, child pretend play, and similar cases. I argue that cosplay is based on self-oriented perspective-taking and is more committed to the character than pretend play but less committed than onstage acting. Subsequently, I argue that cosplay is a type of hybrid art or a hybrid of art forms—a combination of photography, dramatic acting, and fashion performance.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"839 - 858"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41826334","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Letter from the Editor 编辑来信
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-04-16 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2070979
V. Steele
{"title":"Letter from the Editor","authors":"V. Steele","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2070979","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2070979","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"303 - 305"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43851504","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Objects, People, Politics: From Perestroika to the Post-Soviet Era 对象、人、政治：从改革到后苏联时代
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-04-14 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2055918
Djurdja Bartlett
{"title":"Objects, People, Politics: From Perestroika to the Post-Soviet Era","authors":"Djurdja Bartlett","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2055918","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2055918","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article offers a political reading of the status of the object during the Perestroika years (1986–1991) and the immediate post-Soviet period in the early 1990s. Long-established Soviet cultural values and practices underwent a dramatic upheaval in everyday life and economy, as well as in art and fashion, which radically changed the ontological status of the object, and the relationship between the subject and the object. Focusing on three distinctive kinds of objects—austere, fragile and unruly—the article analyzes these changes through the practices of some leading players in art and fashion. Primary visual and textual research, as well as oral-history testimonials, are embedded in theoretical frameworks from art history, and fashion and cultural studies.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"525 - 544"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49325217","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
The Datafication and Quantification of Fashion: The Case of Fashion Influencers 时尚的数据化与量化:以时尚影响者为例
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-04-12 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2048527
Agnès Rocamora
{"title":"The Datafication and Quantification of Fashion: The Case of Fashion Influencers","authors":"Agnès Rocamora","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2048527","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2048527","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The article approaches the field of fashion influencers as an instance of the pervasive power of datafication and quantification in everyday life. It discusses the role of metrics in the fashion influencer economy, and the quantification of the self it goes hand in hand with, a quantification that is also an object of struggle in the field of influencer marketing. Drawing on conceptual tools such as “like economy” and “data capitalism,” as well as on the work of Bourdieu, it points to the instrumentalisation of numbers for economic purposes, and the centrality of such numbers to the business of fashion influence. Drawing on Moore’s notion of “quantified worker” it conceptualizes fashion influencers as iterations of the “quantified self.” The article elaborates on the centrality of quantified data in influencer marketing companies’ quest for a dominant position in the field. It discusses the ways it participates in the quantification of the business of influence, further tightening the relation between capitalism, quantification and datafication in the field of fashion.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"1109 - 1133"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44780453","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Critiques of Appropriation and Transnational Labor Ethics 挪用与跨国劳动伦理批判
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-04-04 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869
S. Delice
{"title":"Critiques of Appropriation and Transnational Labor Ethics","authors":"S. Delice","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Ideas and concepts have their own lives and resilience, to which one should be sensitive. This article focuses on the ways in which a group of Indian artisan organizations and collectives deploy—in their critical exchange with a designer and retailer that have privileged access to the transnationally circulating capital—the concept of appropriation as a tool to confront the hierarchical divisions of labor, and the unequal distribution of capital, within the globalized circuits of transnational fashion production. In bringing together Karl Marx’s critique of the appropriation of living labor by objectified labor and David Harvey’s critical exposé of the new mechanisms of “accumulation by dispossession,” and connecting these labor-focused perspectives on appropriation to the phenomenon of so-called cultural appropriation, the following investigates the potentiality of appropriation in facilitating a transnational labor ethics that defies the problematic segregation of the “design” and “creative” processes from the increasingly alienated and absorbed productive forces of the dispossessed artisan and craft communities.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"475 - 491"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42474876","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Confronting the Absence of Histories, Presence of Traumas and Beauty in Museum Africa, Johannesburg 直面历史的缺失，创伤的存在和美在非洲博物馆，约翰内斯堡
IF 1 4区 社会学
Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-14 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046867
A. Moloney, Wanda Lephoto, Erica de Greef
{"title":"Confronting the Absence of Histories, Presence of Traumas and Beauty in Museum Africa, Johannesburg","authors":"A. Moloney, Wanda Lephoto, Erica de Greef","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046867","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046867","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Museum Africa is Johannesburg’s social and cultural history museum and holds within its collection the Bernberg Costumes & Textiles Collection; an extensive collection of predominantly white-owned European fashion objects with some 16,562 items dating from the 1800 s to the late 1900s, imported into South Africa or made locally. This article documents the continued enquiry between South African fashion designer and artist Wanda Lephoto, London-based fashion curator Alison Moloney, and South African-based fashion curator and academic Dr Erica de Greef who together have been grappling with the violence of absence of black South African fashion histories and narratives that is revealed in the museum’s store. This enquiry is founded on a phenomenological approach to dress curatorship with the intention to unravel the collection’s epistemology through an interrogation of decolonial curatorial methodologies. The artistic interventions aim to disrupt the Eurocentric and exclusionary acquisition practices and fashion discourses that are represented by these seemingly “innocent” but deeply problematic objects. Can an engagement with these fashion objects through experiments with museological interventions decolonize and unpack the complex histories held within the collection and contribute to a process of healing?","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"545 - 554"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45090005","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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