{"title":"挪用与跨国劳动伦理批判","authors":"S. Delice","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Ideas and concepts have their own lives and resilience, to which one should be sensitive. This article focuses on the ways in which a group of Indian artisan organizations and collectives deploy—in their critical exchange with a designer and retailer that have privileged access to the transnationally circulating capital—the concept of appropriation as a tool to confront the hierarchical divisions of labor, and the unequal distribution of capital, within the globalized circuits of transnational fashion production. In bringing together Karl Marx’s critique of the appropriation of living labor by objectified labor and David Harvey’s critical exposé of the new mechanisms of “accumulation by dispossession,” and connecting these labor-focused perspectives on appropriation to the phenomenon of so-called cultural appropriation, the following investigates the potentiality of appropriation in facilitating a transnational labor ethics that defies the problematic segregation of the “design” and “creative” processes from the increasingly alienated and absorbed productive forces of the dispossessed artisan and craft communities.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"475 - 491"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7000,"publicationDate":"2022-04-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Critiques of Appropriation and Transnational Labor Ethics\",\"authors\":\"S. Delice\",\"doi\":\"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"Abstract Ideas and concepts have their own lives and resilience, to which one should be sensitive. This article focuses on the ways in which a group of Indian artisan organizations and collectives deploy—in their critical exchange with a designer and retailer that have privileged access to the transnationally circulating capital—the concept of appropriation as a tool to confront the hierarchical divisions of labor, and the unequal distribution of capital, within the globalized circuits of transnational fashion production. In bringing together Karl Marx’s critique of the appropriation of living labor by objectified labor and David Harvey’s critical exposé of the new mechanisms of “accumulation by dispossession,” and connecting these labor-focused perspectives on appropriation to the phenomenon of so-called cultural appropriation, the following investigates the potentiality of appropriation in facilitating a transnational labor ethics that defies the problematic segregation of the “design” and “creative” processes from the increasingly alienated and absorbed productive forces of the dispossessed artisan and craft communities.\",\"PeriodicalId\":51687,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture\",\"volume\":\"26 1\",\"pages\":\"475 - 491\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.7000,\"publicationDate\":\"2022-04-04\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"社会学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"0\",\"JCRName\":\"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
Critiques of Appropriation and Transnational Labor Ethics
Abstract Ideas and concepts have their own lives and resilience, to which one should be sensitive. This article focuses on the ways in which a group of Indian artisan organizations and collectives deploy—in their critical exchange with a designer and retailer that have privileged access to the transnationally circulating capital—the concept of appropriation as a tool to confront the hierarchical divisions of labor, and the unequal distribution of capital, within the globalized circuits of transnational fashion production. In bringing together Karl Marx’s critique of the appropriation of living labor by objectified labor and David Harvey’s critical exposé of the new mechanisms of “accumulation by dispossession,” and connecting these labor-focused perspectives on appropriation to the phenomenon of so-called cultural appropriation, the following investigates the potentiality of appropriation in facilitating a transnational labor ethics that defies the problematic segregation of the “design” and “creative” processes from the increasingly alienated and absorbed productive forces of the dispossessed artisan and craft communities.
期刊介绍:
The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.