Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture最新文献

{"title":"Reviving the Silenced; Defining Vegan Fashion and Classifying Materials of Animal Origin","authors":"Rachel Lamarche-Beauchesne","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2276547","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2276547","url":null,"abstract":"AbstractThe ongoing growth of clothing, footwear, and accessories marketed as vegan requires the development of a usable definition for the segment, as well as a review of the classification system which has permeated the use of materials of animal origin within fashion. Guided by literature on fashion, veganism, and animal agriculture, this conceptual article discusses the tangible enactment of ideological values when applied in the context of fashion products and materials. Established within this article is that a vegan fashion or textile product be defined as one that ensures, throughout the supply chain, and in the fibers, materials and chemicals that were used to manufacture the end-product, to be devoid of any forms of animal involvement, namely through the avoidance of animal products, co-products, and by-products. Also suggested is that definitions of materials of animal origin should be reframed to acknowledge the level of involvement required from animals and insects in obtaining materials, namely their death, labor, or secretions. While traditional relationships between humans and animals are rarely questioned, this article, by recentring the animals as unwilling participants in the commercialization of their bodies, offers new ways to reflect upon the fashion industry’s use of animals as resources.Keywords: veganismvegan fashionmaterialstextilesanimals AcknowledgmentsThe author would like to thank Dr Marian Makkar for extensive support and multiple reviews instrumental in the elaboration of this article.Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Additional informationFundingThis research was supported by an Australian Government Research Training Program (RTP) Scholarship.Notes on contributorsRachel Lamarche-BeauchesneRachel Lamarche-Beauchesne is a Ph.D. Candidate within the RMIT School of Marketing, Economics and Finance examining the relationship between veganism and consumption, including in the context of fashion. She has a bachelor’s degree in Fashion business from the Université du Québec à Montréal and a master’s degree in Arts management from RMIT University.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"30 S96","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135343230","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Time to treat the climate and nature crisis as one indivisible global health emergency","authors":"Kamran Abbasi, Parveen Ali, Virginia Barbour, Thomas Benfield, Kirsten Bibbins-Domingo, Gregory E. Erhabor, Stephen Hancocks, Richard Horton, Laurie Laybourn-Langton, Robert Mash, Peush Sahni, Wadeia Mohammad Sharief, Paul Yonga, Chris Zielinski","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2276466","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2276466","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"7 3","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136263585","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Beauty Regimes. A History of Power and Modern Empire in the Philippines, 1898–1941 <b> <i>Beauty Regimes. A History of Power and Modern Empire in the Philippines, 1898–1941</i> </b> , <b>by</b> Genevieve Alva Clutario <b>(</b> <b>Durham, NC</b> <b>:</b> <b>Duke University Press</b> , 2023 <b>)</b>","authors":"Mina Roces","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2265663","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2265663","url":null,"abstract":"Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Additional informationNotes on contributorsMina RocesMina Roces is Professor of History at the University of New South Wales, Sydney, Australia. Author of five books, the most recent being The Filipino Migration Experience: Global Agents of Change, (Cornell University Press, 2021), winner of the 2022 NSW Premier’s General History Book Prize, and Gender in Southeast Asia (Cambridge University Press, 2022). In 2019 she received the Grant Goodman Prize for Excellence in Philippine Historical Studies from the Philippine Studies Group of the Association for Asian Studies. m.roces@unsw.edu.au","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"70 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135823609","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Gay Men’s Style: Fashion, Dress and Sexuality in the 21st Century <b> <i>Gay Men’s Style: Fashion, Dress and Sexuality in the 21st Century</i> </b> by Shaun Cole (London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2023)","authors":"Jay McCauley Bowstead","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2264083","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2264083","url":null,"abstract":"Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Additional informationNotes on contributorsJay McCauley BowsteadJay McCauley Bowstead is Coconvenor of the Masculinities Research Hub at London College of Fashion and also teaches at Central Saint Martins. He has published widely on fashion, masculinities and the role of public policy in shaping the creative industries. Author of Menswear Revolution: The Transformation of Contemporary Men’s Fashion (Bloomsbury 2018), he sits on the editorial board of Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion and Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty. j.mccauleybowstead@fashion.arts.ac.uk","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"287 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135968955","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"¡Moda Hoy! Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today <b> <i>¡Moda Hoy! Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today,</i> The Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology </b> , New York, NY, May 31–August 27, 2023","authors":"Edward Salazar Celis","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2261333","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2261333","url":null,"abstract":"Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author.Additional informationNotes on contributorsEdward Salazar CelisEdward Salazar Celis is a writer, cultural critic, and educator specializing in Latinx and Latin American arts, fashion, design, and visual cultures. He is the author of the book Nostalgias y Aspiraciones (2021) about fashion and Colombian middle class, and the author and editor of Estudios de la moda en Colombia (2022), the first fashion reader in Colombia. He is pursuing his Ph.D. in Latin American and Latino Studies at the University of California (Santa Cruz). He has lectured in various Latin American institutions about popular culture, sociology of the body, design, and the entanglements between fashion, race, class, and colonial legacies. He works in public humanities in Colombia and within the region thanks to his collaborations in podcasting, television, digital media, printing media, and radio. He has been awarded grants and fellowships in Colombia and the United States. efsalazarc@ucsc.edu","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"41 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135830534","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Africa Fashion <b> <i>Africa Fashion,</i> Victoria &amp; Albert Museum </b> , London, July 2, 2022–April 16, 2023 <b>Brooklyn Museum</b> , New York, June 23, 2023–October 22, 2023","authors":"Rachel Lifter","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2261337","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2261337","url":null,"abstract":"Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Notes1 Nationalities and birth and death dates are included within the opening text for each designer at the Brooklyn Museum.2 The wall text and object captions for Africa Fashion often differed between the V&A and the Brooklyn Museum: sometimes just small edits and other times large conceptual changes. Within this review, I will indicate these differences through citations. If I do not cite a museum when referring to written materials, it is because the text was the same.3 I was first introduced to the term “hair portraits” through an August 26, 2014 feature on Vogue.com. The feature was called “Forces of Nature: 28 Afropunk Hair Portraits by Artist Awol Eriku” and it was edited by Marjon Carlos.4 In contrast, White-Mifetu and Malvoisin change the opening lines to “During the mid-twentieth century, a new wave of creative expression swept across Africa as much of the continent began to gain independence from European colonial powers—largely the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Belgium, Spain, Portugal, and Italy.”Additional informationNotes on contributorsRachel LifterRachel Lifter is Clinical Assistant Professor and Director of NYU’s master’s program in Costume Studies. Her current research focuses on New York City in the 1980s, the people who worked in the fashion industry at that time, and the impact of the AIDS epidemic on this workforce. rachel.lifter@nyu.edu","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"28 7 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135344585","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Object Lives and Global Histories in Northern North America: Material Culture in Motion, C. 1780-1980","authors":"M. O’Connell","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243766","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243766","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-08-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46717606","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Sur les routes de Samarcande. Merveilles de soie et d’or (On the Routes of Samarkand. Marvels of Silk and of Gold)","authors":"Lacey Minot","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2247901","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2247901","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-08-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44504495","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Cripping Masculinities: Designing Fashion Utopias","authors":"Robin J. Chantree","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243083","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243083","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43544444","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Des cheveux et des poils","authors":"Nigel Lezama","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243702","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2243702","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-08-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48951950","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}