Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture最新文献_第10页

Masculinity, Identity and Body Politics in the Interzone: A Queer Perspective on Raf Simons’s Critical Fashion Practices (1995–2005) 男性气质、身份认同和跨区域的身体政治：拉夫·西蒙斯批判性时尚实践的酷儿视角（1995-2005）

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-18 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.1982191

Nicola Brajato

引用次数: 0

Masculine Renunciation or Rejection of the Feminine?: Revisiting J.C. Flügel’s Psychology of Clothes 男性对女性的排斥？：Fügel服装心理学再探

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-11 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.1952919

Chloe Chapin

{"title":"Masculine Renunciation or Rejection of the Feminine?: Revisiting J.C. Flügel’s Psychology of Clothes","authors":"Chloe Chapin","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2021.1952919","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.1952919","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In this article, I revisit J.C. Flügel’s conception of the “Great Masculine Renunciation” and its lasting effect on fashion scholarship. Coined in Flügel’s 1930 book The Psychology of Clothes, the term was quickly adopted by early dress historians, though it has often been used in extraction from its original context. Flügel’s framework of psychology both illuminated and limited his analysis of men’s clothing: I compare his early 20th-century psychological analysis to the real historical style changes between the 18th and 19th centuries, and the profound, lasting impact they had not just on men, but on broader understandings of gender, class, and nationality. I challenge Flügel’s definition of the changes in fashions that did occur at the end of the 18th century as essentially about masculinity—by far the more profound impact has been the associated assigning of women’s dress to the character of “fashion,” a role which had previously been held by both genders of the upper class. While it is not invalid to consider this esthetic shift in terms of a loss for men, it also allowed for women’s fashion to be marked as fashion, and for women and nonwhite, non-western, or non-heteronormative men to be marked as “other.”","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"983 - 1008"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48462655","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Developments and Challenges of Fashion Law in China 中国服装法的发展与挑战

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-11 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.1985320

R. Cavalieri, Mengzhen Wu

引用次数: 0

Digital 3D Fashion Designers: Cases of Atacac and The Fabricant 数字3D时装设计师：阿塔卡奇与设计师案例

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-11 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.1981657

Natalia Särmäkari

{"title":"Digital 3D Fashion Designers: Cases of Atacac and The Fabricant","authors":"Natalia Särmäkari","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2021.1981657","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.1981657","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The phenomenon of “digital fashion” has been lately addressed in media as the next significant step in the fashion industry. The increasing use of the 3D-software in fashion design processes is part of a wider “fashion 4.0” digitalization process. This article frames the phenomenon of digital fashion and presents an in-depth case study research on two pioneering companies in this area, Atacac and The Fabricant. How and why are they building their fashion design practice on digital 3D-design? How are these companies redefining the fashion design culture and the fashion designer? Drawing from sociology of professions, this article proposes that digital fashion is an emerging subfield within the field of fashion design, differentiating itself from the professional conventions and building new strategies of jurisdiction and legitimation. Driven by sociotechnical affordances and elevation of professional pride through ethical, conceptual, artistic and skill differentiation, digital fashion designer becomes also a digital artisan. In the increasingly virtual, or “phygital” space and a networked synergetic community of digital fashion, the professional, authorial, bodily and material boundaries of designers become fluid, transforming the traditional figure of fashion designer.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"85 - 114"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41383063","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 10

Des Moines Gay Men’s Chorus, Queer Spaces, Collectives Styles, and Activist Dress, 1984 to the Present 得梅因男同性恋合唱团、酷儿空间、集体风格和活动家服装，1984年至今

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-11 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.1964269

Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Kyra G. Streck, Isaiah Sents, Destiny Williams

{"title":"Des Moines Gay Men’s Chorus, Queer Spaces, Collectives Styles, and Activist Dress, 1984 to the Present","authors":"Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Kyra G. Streck, Isaiah Sents, Destiny Williams","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2021.1964269","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.1964269","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract During the 1970s, people in the United States founded gay and lesbian choruses for political activism, coming out, and celebration. We examined the history of one of these choruses, the Des Moines Gay Men’s Chorus (DMGMC). We asked, how do their bodies in motion and styling-fashioning-dressing produce, distribute, and negotiate queer representations? How do they appear across space and time? How can these style-fashion-dress acts open multiple interpretations and dialectical subtleties? To answer these questions, we analyzed the original DMGMC slogan T-shirt, the digital archive of historical LGBT T-shirts, performance videos and imagery, song lyrics, news articles, and oral histories. The chorus members negotiated queer sensibilities, choral traditions, activism, and community building through their T-shirts and performance costumes in complex ways. They negotiated queer representations by creating temporary queer spaces during the AIDS crisis and highlighting how community and visibility have been significant in gay history. However, the chorus often prioritized an appropriate kind of gay man via dress, which they reinforced through racial-power dynamics, complex-gender associations related to tuxedos, and cabaret performance outfits that included nun’s habits. The chorus’ various collective styles esthetically represent how gay men’s choruses navigate entanglements of tradition, gayness, and music while reclaiming oppressive symbology.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"1009 - 1033"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41425528","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Transnational Flow of Chinese and UK Fashion Discourse: Analyses of Digital Platforms and Online Shopping in China 中英时尚话语的跨国流动——对中国数字平台和网上购物的分析

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-11 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.1979789

A. Fung

引用次数: 0

Chinese Investment and the Rise of “Made in Africa” Fashion Production 中国投资与“非洲制造”时装生产的兴起

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-06 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.1979788

Liang Xu

引用次数: 0

Flaunting and Consumption: Women’s Headdress in the Ming Dynasty of China 炫耀与消费:中国明代女性头饰

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-05 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.1972631

Donglei Li, Hui’e Liang, A. Zhang

{"title":"Flaunting and Consumption: Women’s Headdress in the Ming Dynasty of China","authors":"Donglei Li, Hui’e Liang, A. Zhang","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2021.1972631","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.1972631","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The Ming Dynasty of China was the ruling dynasty from 1368 to 1644. Wearing hair ornaments as a fashion statement has been an important lasting tradition in Chinese costume history. This article analyzes the political and cultural connotations of women’s headdress throughout the social hierarchy of the Ming Dynasty. During those flourishing cultural and economic times, both the aristocracy and commoners used headdresses to pursue custom trends and to display their ability to consume material wealth. Fashion was a means of distinguishing social classes from one another–the aristocracy could flaunt their prestige by acquiring elaborate and costly hair ornaments, while the commoners intended to break class barriers by emulating the elite styles. The evolution of fashion throughout history reflects the social and esthetic rules of the time. The unique silhouettes, choices of materials, and design features of these headdresses took on different forms as social and cultural norms shifted. Women’s headdress from the Ming Dynasty were metaphors that signified impactful expressions of fashion and consumption throughout social ladders, which is still an influential cultural phenomenon that persists in today’s society.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"383 - 398"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2021-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43838163","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Journey to the Self: In-Depth Case Studies of Trans Men’s Self-Construction through Body Work and Clothing 自我之旅:跨性别男性透过身体与服装建构自我的深度个案研究

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-09-27 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.1974710

Domenique Jones, Hee-Jeong Lim

{"title":"Journey to the Self: In-Depth Case Studies of Trans Men’s Self-Construction through Body Work and Clothing","authors":"Domenique Jones, Hee-Jeong Lim","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2021.1974710","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.1974710","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This research aims to explore transgender men’s embodied experiences of self-construction and discover the role of dress in their journey of outwardly becoming a man. In general, the stigma that sexual and gender minorities experience arises from the perception of appearance that has been institutionalized in a society within the binary gender system. Adopting Deleuzian theory, social comparison theory, and institutional theory as theoretical lenses, we conducted in-depth case studies of four trans males’ influencers’ narratives on YouTube and Instagram. Thematic analysis of the data revealed four themes: (1) Intention for self-documentation and public sharing of the journey of constructing identity, (2) self-consciousness of female body attributes and gender dysphoria as a result of social comparison, (3) reduced gender dysphoria through body modifications, and (4) consuming to conform: Adoption of gendered products for visual conformity and dilemma in fashion choices. Our findings demonstrated the role of dress (i.e. body modification, body supplements) in trans men’s self-construction as they attempt to create congruence between their internal sense of gender and their external presentation. The findings of this study provide theoretical disclosure of how Deleuzian theory and institutional theory are applied to a socially oppressed gender group.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"1035 - 1058"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44736387","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 3

From Joint Ventures to Collaborative Projects: Toward an Ethnography of Sino-Italian Fashion Relations in the 2020s 从合资到合作项目：走向20世纪20年代中意时尚关系的民族志

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-09-22 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.1971882

Simona Segre-Reinach

引用次数: 0