对象、人、政治：从改革到后苏联时代

IF 0.7 4区社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-04-14 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2022.2055918

Djurdja Bartlett

{"title":"对象、人、政治：从改革到后苏联时代","authors":"Djurdja Bartlett","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2055918","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article offers a political reading of the status of the object during the Perestroika years (1986–1991) and the immediate post-Soviet period in the early 1990s. Long-established Soviet cultural values and practices underwent a dramatic upheaval in everyday life and economy, as well as in art and fashion, which radically changed the ontological status of the object, and the relationship between the subject and the object. Focusing on three distinctive kinds of objects—austere, fragile and unruly—the article analyzes these changes through the practices of some leading players in art and fashion. Primary visual and textual research, as well as oral-history testimonials, are embedded in theoretical frameworks from art history, and fashion and cultural studies.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"525 - 544"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7000,"publicationDate":"2022-04-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Objects, People, Politics: From Perestroika to the Post-Soviet Era\",\"authors\":\"Djurdja Bartlett\",\"doi\":\"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2055918\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"Abstract This article offers a political reading of the status of the object during the Perestroika years (1986–1991) and the immediate post-Soviet period in the early 1990s. Long-established Soviet cultural values and practices underwent a dramatic upheaval in everyday life and economy, as well as in art and fashion, which radically changed the ontological status of the object, and the relationship between the subject and the object. Focusing on three distinctive kinds of objects—austere, fragile and unruly—the article analyzes these changes through the practices of some leading players in art and fashion. Primary visual and textual research, as well as oral-history testimonials, are embedded in theoretical frameworks from art history, and fashion and cultural studies.\",\"PeriodicalId\":51687,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture\",\"volume\":\"26 1\",\"pages\":\"525 - 544\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.7000,\"publicationDate\":\"2022-04-14\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2055918\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"社会学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"0\",\"JCRName\":\"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2055918","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

摘要

摘要本文从政治角度解读了该物体在改革年代（1986–1991）和20世纪90年代初后苏联时期的地位。长期确立的苏联文化价值观和实践在日常生活和经济以及艺术和时尚中经历了戏剧性的剧变，从根本上改变了客体的本体论地位以及主体和客体之间的关系。文章围绕三种不同的物品——朴素、脆弱和不羁——通过艺术和时尚界一些领军人物的实践来分析这些变化。主要的视觉和文本研究，以及口述历史证明，都嵌入了艺术史、时尚和文化研究的理论框架中。

本文章由计算机程序翻译，如有差异，请以英文原文为准。

查看原文本刊更多论文

Objects, People, Politics: From Perestroika to the Post-Soviet Era

Abstract This article offers a political reading of the status of the object during the Perestroika years (1986–1991) and the immediate post-Soviet period in the early 1990s. Long-established Soviet cultural values and practices underwent a dramatic upheaval in everyday life and economy, as well as in art and fashion, which radically changed the ontological status of the object, and the relationship between the subject and the object. Focusing on three distinctive kinds of objects—austere, fragile and unruly—the article analyzes these changes through the practices of some leading players in art and fashion. Primary visual and textual research, as well as oral-history testimonials, are embedded in theoretical frameworks from art history, and fashion and cultural studies.

求助全文

通过发布文献求助，成功后即可免费获取论文全文。去求助

来源期刊

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-

CiteScore

2.10

自引率

10.00%

发文量

期刊介绍： The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.