Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture最新文献_第8页

Radical Pedagogies: Right Here, Right Now! 激进教学法:此时此地!

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-10 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046863

C. Stevenson

{"title":"Radical Pedagogies: Right Here, Right Now!","authors":"C. Stevenson","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046863","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046863","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Fashion education is caught in a moment of intense transformation. While the fashion industry continues along a reckless path of social and environmental destruction, a new generation of students are activating our educational institutions, demanding real and radical change. Meanwhile, the theoretical field of Fashion Studies has rapidly taken a central position in imagining a new vision of fashion in a global context, re-writing problematic histories, challenging Eurocentric dominance and dismantling prevailing ideologies. This article, in the form of a manifesto for educators, calls for a return to the origins of fashion scholarship within the discipline of British Cultural Studies. It asks what we might learn from Cultural Studies’ intersection with Critical Pedagogy as a way to “do” fashion politics within our classrooms. By drawing on initiatives pioneered by the Cultural and Historical Studies Department at London College of Fashion, this manifesto explores how British Cultural Studies can be re-articulated for our current times, in order to forge new alliances between theory and practice, and enact radical action beyond the walls of our academic institutions.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"465 - 473"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47365546","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Transcriptions and Relative Novelty: Virgil Abloh’s Design Strategies 转录和相对新颖性:Virgil Abloh的设计策略

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-09 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2047290

Andrzej Leśniak

引用次数: 0

Fashion Remains: Rethinking Fashion Ephemera in the Archive 时尚留存:重新思考档案中的时尚蜉蝣

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-03 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2028371

M. O’Connell

引用次数: 0

Letter from the Editor 编辑来信

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-02-23 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2045761

V. Steele

引用次数: 0

The Fashion System’s Environmental Impact: Theorizing the Market’s Institutional Actors, Actions, Logics, and Norms 时尚系统的环境影响:理论化市场的制度参与者、行动、逻辑和规范

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-01-24 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2027680

E. Karpova, Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Farimah Bayat

{"title":"The Fashion System’s Environmental Impact: Theorizing the Market’s Institutional Actors, Actions, Logics, and Norms","authors":"E. Karpova, Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Farimah Bayat","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2027680","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2027680","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Drawing on institutional theory, we examined New York Times readers’ views on fashion’s environmental impact by analyzing and interpreting comments posted in response to a sustainability and fashion-focused opinion article. Based on our interpretations, we developed a model to think through new opportunities in the mechanics of the organizational field of fashion. Collectively, readers identified multiple actors responsible for fashion market’s environmental footprint: consumers, industry, and governing institutions. Further, readers offered various approaches for addressing the fashion environmental footprint—from conscious consumption practices to industry shifts and governmental regulations. We discovered two fashion logics—the logic of dress codes and the logic of planned obsolescence—that extend our understanding of the fashion system. The two fashion logics operate within the larger, overriding logic of capitalism that defines the behaviors of and relationships between the actors in the fashion marketplace. Recognizing societal norms, or institutional logics, that serve as barriers to a sustainable future of the fashion market has profound implications for realizing this future. We demonstrate how the fashion logics are being challenged for their moral legitimacy as the logics’ materialistic values are at odds with sustainability values and centering environmental justice.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"799 - 820"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-24","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42653733","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Fashion Statements in a Site of Conflict 冲突场所的时尚宣言

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-01-12 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.2000811

Roberto Filippello

{"title":"Fashion Statements in a Site of Conflict","authors":"Roberto Filippello","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2021.2000811","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.2000811","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article is an analysis of critical fashion practices in Israel/Palestine based on interviews conducted with two design teams: Israeli-Palestinian brand ADISH and Palestinian brand tRASHY. These two brands share a commitment to fashion design and fashion image-making as tools of community building: a project that goes hand in hand with a rethinking of systems of production and labor. The aesthetic and political dimension of their practices, however, are inevitably marked by the different experiences and positionalities (as Israelis or Palestinians) of their respective founders. I situate their creative practices in the wake of the post-Oslo Accords and suggest that such practices should be understood as part of a broader creative solidarity movement that contests nationalism, oppression, and separation. The affective labor involved in the development of community-building design projects, the cooperative creative process, and the generation of capital used to support local female workers as well as refugee and/or LGBTQ populations in Palestine are the constituents of a larger grassroots mobilization aimed at fostering change. This article contributes to ongoing scholarly work on art practices of world-making and explores how fashion could provide a stage for rethinking both the aesthetic and the political in a contested sociopolitical landscape.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"205 - 235"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41516951","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 1

Two Decades of Fashion Blogging and Influencing: A Critical Overview 时尚博客及其影响力的二十年：一个批判性的综述

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-01-06 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.2017213

Marco Pedroni

{"title":"Two Decades of Fashion Blogging and Influencing: A Critical Overview","authors":"Marco Pedroni","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2021.2017213","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.2017213","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Influencers have monopolized media attention in recent years, the result of a long process lasting two decades dating from the rise of blogging at the beginning of the twenty-first century. In this article, I set out the historical framework in which the social media practitioners known as fashion bloggers and influencers have emerged and developed as relevant players in the field of fashion. I propose a reading of fashion blogging and influencing as a process articulated in four stages between 2000 and 2020. These two decades, marked by a progressive institutionalization of social media practice in the field of fashion, saw the advent of Instagram-based influencers in the second half of the 2010s and their continuing domination of fashion platforms, and TikTok’s rise in relevance in the same field during the early 2020s. I first explore the rise of fashion blogs in the early 2000s and the scholarly debate regarding its characteristics. I then frame the transition from blogging to Instagram, not just as a change of platform, but as an opportunity for the invention of a new occupation, the influencer, and the consecration of the business of influence. Lastly, I critically examine the concepts of influence and influencer.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"237 - 268"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48164118","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 3

Spanish Couture: In the Shadow of Cristóbal Balenciaga 西班牙时装:在Cristóbal巴黎世家的阴影下

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2020.1770399

Sílvia Rosés Castellsaguer

引用次数: 1

Dressed: Fashionable Dress in Aoteoroa New Zealand 1840 to 1910 着装：1840年至1910年新西兰奥特奥罗的时尚连衣裙

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-12-13 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.2008117

B. Lemire

引用次数: 1

The Material Film Costume: Encountering the Mink Dress of Lady in the Dark (Leisen, 1944) 《物质电影服装：在黑暗中遇见女人的貂皮裙》（莱森，1944）

IF 1 4区社会学

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-12-13 DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2021.1990524

Lisa Colpaert

{"title":"The Material Film Costume: Encountering the Mink Dress of Lady in the Dark (Leisen, 1944)","authors":"Lisa Colpaert","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2021.1990524","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.1990524","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Over the last three decades, the study of film costume design has become a burgeoning field that predominantly engaged with the cinematic costume and its relationship with the female spectator. As film scholars have seldom looked at or worked with the actual garments, little to no academic attention is spent on the knowledge, experience, and invisible work of the costume designers and executers working in this field. This article implements the research methodology of material culture analysis, established in the field of fashion studies, but neglected in the area of film costume design studies. By stepping into the physical world of costume objects, the material culture analysis allows us to look beyond film costumes as kinetic, immaterial film images, and enables us to elucidate the histories and esthetics of garments that were created for specific film performances. Through an archival encounter with an extant costume object, an understanding of the creative and collaborative work conducted in the wardrobe department is facilitated. The central case of this paper is the mink dress of Lady in the Dark, a lavish musical drama set in the fashion industry, and directed by Mitchell Leisen, who started his career as a costume designer.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"1059 - 1081"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43067279","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0