Fashion, Style & Popular Culture最新文献_第3页

Challenging the fashion academy: Intersectional perspectives on justice in the evolving fashion system 挑战时尚学院：不断演变的时尚体系中的正义交叉视角

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2024-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00224_2

Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Dyese L. Matthews

{"title":"Challenging the fashion academy: Intersectional perspectives on justice in the evolving fashion system","authors":"Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Dyese L. Matthews","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00224_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00224_2","url":null,"abstract":"This Special Issue of the journal focuses on the intricate relationship between justice and the fashion system, presenting a collection of groundbreaking research articles and reviews. The aim is to highlight the importance of intersectional and advocacy-based research in fashion studies, with a focus on historically marginalized identities. The articles employ diverse research methods, including literature reviews, material culture analysis, interviews and historical investigations. The articles cover a range of topics that examine justice within the fashion industry. One article critically analyses scholarship on Black women and fashion, highlighting the dominance of research centred on resistance, oppression and Eurocentric beauty standards. Another article explores the representation and experiences of Muslim women in modest fashion brands, examining the intersection of oppression, agency and capitalist practices. Additionally, the issue includes articles centred on fatness and fashion, discussing transgressive dress on YouTube, resistance against weight stigma on Instagram, and the historical development of sizing systems for fat bodies. Two reviews featured in the Special Issue provide insights into the relationship between fashion and intersectional feminism in American society, as well as the historical significance of Bomba attire in Puerto Rico. Overall, this collection of articles and reviews offers a comprehensive exploration of fashion studies through the lens of historically marginalized identities, shedding light on the industry’s potential to challenge discrimination and promote inclusivity. The issue calls for continued engagement with intersectional and advocacy-based research to drive the growth and evolution of the discipline, ultimately working towards a more equitable and inclusive fashion industry.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"21 18","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140083304","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Conference Abstracts 会议摘要

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2024-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00218_7

引用次数: 0

Time and space in Brechó de Troca: Reflections on the method of a clothing exchange group in Brazil Brechó de Troca 的时间与空间：对巴西服装交换小组工作方法的思考

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2024-02-16 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00237_1

Helena de Barros Soares, Inês Hennigen

{"title":"Time and space in Brechó de Troca: Reflections on the method of a clothing exchange group in Brazil","authors":"Helena de Barros Soares, Inês Hennigen","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00237_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00237_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article analyses the creation of a group time-space and its effects based on a master’s thesis research that analysed some processes in a second-hand exchange group called Brechó de Troca. This group is a space for interaction, whose meetings promote the exchange of clothes and accessories. It was founded in Porto Alegre (south of Brazil) in 2009, with a distinct method aiming to produce subjectivity by exchanging clothes in a way that considers their stories. For this research, we assembled materials that paved the way to such results, analysing the mode of production of subjectivity through the dressing practices in the group. We could observe that the invention of another time, which suspends the eagerness for consumption, potentiates modes of subjectivation through the practices of dressing. This article also highlights the fact that access to consumption is not equalitarian in Global South capitalism. This can be seen in a social phenomenon called ‘rolezinhos’, which took place in Brazil in 2014 and illustrated the contrast between the purchasing power of the lower and upper classes. We believe that the invention of the limbo, name given to the time-space created in the group, works as a trigger of processes, which suspends and enables exercises of the self through clothing in the group meetings. The exchanges gain potency and various stories after going through the Brechó de Troca.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"46 12","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-02-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139960445","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Santa Muerte: The most fashionable saint of the year 圣母玛利亚：一年中最时髦的圣徒

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2024-02-16 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00235_1

Karolina I. Kaleta

{"title":"Santa Muerte: The most fashionable saint of the year","authors":"Karolina I. Kaleta","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00235_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00235_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article presents and analyses the relation between the cult of a Mexican folk saint, Santa Muerte (Saint Death), and fashion. The article describes the unique phenomenon and its complex history as an amalgamation of Christian and pre-Hispanic elements. Even with the cult’s growing recognition, Santa Muerte is still surrounded by controversies – lack of academic research and stereotypes presented by media and popular culture lead to numerous discrepancies such as erroneous image of the followers of Santa Muerte who are often depicted as criminals related to drug smuggling. The main part of the article focuses on the practices of building and decorating the altars, shrines and chapels for Santa Muerte. The text also highlights a spreading custom of designing various types of dresses and robes for the figures of the patron and the practice of modifying the figures themselves (adding ornaments, artefacts and various items). Some of these items and ornaments express the intentions of the prayers, holidays and individual preferences of the worshippers. Following sections present the impact of the cult of Santa Muerte (especially its aesthetical dimension) on the fashion industry, which is visible in the example of jewellery and clothing. The article concludes with an exploration of trends among the followers of Santa Muerte and their impact on the esoteric industry that is wide and rapidly developing in Mexico.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"30 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-02-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139962250","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

‘Con poporos y guacamayas’: Representaciones indígenas y el traje típico colombiano en el Miss Universo 罂粟和鳄梨：环球小姐中的土著形象和哥伦比亚的典型服饰

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2024-02-16 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00233_1

León Piza

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Más es más: Cómo el éxito del Carnaval de Barranquilla se mide a través del ajuar de su reina en la era digital 越多越好：巴兰基亚狂欢节的成功如何通过数字时代的女王服饰来衡量

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2024-02-16 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00239_1

Jeniffer Varela Rodríguez-Licata, Melissa Zuleta Bandera

{"title":"Más es más: Cómo el éxito del Carnaval de Barranquilla se mide a través del ajuar de su reina en la era digital","authors":"Jeniffer Varela Rodríguez-Licata, Melissa Zuleta Bandera","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00239_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00239_1","url":null,"abstract":"Declared by UNESCO as one of the Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity, Barranquilla’s Carnival gathers thousands of dancers, performers, artists and carnival doers for months leading to the four official days of the festivity, and it is all traditionally led by a Queen. Her commitment to the city of Barranquilla and its most important event is tested from the moment of her election until Ash Wednesday, when the Carnival ends. Her performance is scrutinized now more than ever thanks to the immediacy of social media: her dancing abilities, enthusiasm, charisma and, in great detail, her wardrobe. Traditionally chosen among the wealthiest and deepest-rooted families in the city, her reign is often measured by the purchasing power of her clan, represented in the variety and quality of her dresses and costumes. This article examines the social perception of the Queen through the lens of her wardrobe, using as case studies the Carnivals of three young women in the years 2014, 2016 and 2020. We look to determine how the quality, quantity and luxury of a queen’s festive outfits throughout her reign shape the public opinion of the queen herself and the opinion of her Carnival overall.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"24 10","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-02-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139960843","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

¡Moda Hoy! Latin American and Latinx Fashion Design Today: An interview with Tanya Melendez-Escalante and Melissa Marra-Alvarez ¡Moda Hoy！今日拉美和拉美裔时装设计：采访 Tanya Melendez-Escalante 和 Melissa Marra-Alvarez

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2024-02-16 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00240_7

Raúl J. Vázquez-López

引用次数: 0

Artisanal collaborations in the Mexican fashion industry: The case of Otomí embroiderers and Carla Fernández 墨西哥时装业的手工合作：奥托米刺绣和卡拉-费尔南德斯的案例

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2024-02-16 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00238_1

Brenda Mondragón-Toledo

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Nothing to wear: The fashion behind Rebelde, Mexico’s most popular teen telenovela 无衣可穿：墨西哥最受欢迎的青少年电视连续剧《Rebelde》背后的时尚

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2024-02-16 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00234_1

Laura V. Jimenez Morales

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Renová tu Vestidor: Second-hand online clothing retail as an extension of domestic labour and as resistance practices in Argentina between 2016 and 2018 Renová tu Vestidor：2016年至2018年阿根廷二手服装在线零售作为国内劳动力的延伸和抵抗实践

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2024-02-16 DOI: 10.1386/fspc_00236_1

Victoria Nannini

{"title":"Renová tu Vestidor: Second-hand online clothing retail as an extension of domestic labour and as resistance practices in Argentina between 2016 and 2018","authors":"Victoria Nannini","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00236_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00236_1","url":null,"abstract":"The aim of this article is to look into some fashion consumption practices that manifest resistance at the micro social level and which occur through one specific virtual platform from Argentina, Renová Tu Vestidor (renovatuvestidor.com). The resistance mentioned here seeks to overcome market prices during the period concerning 2016 and 2018, as well as to find brand items and other affordable stylish garments and simultaneously generate extra income. Therefore, resistant practices through online shopping are linked to the need of managing the household economy in a time of national (and global) crisis, without neglecting the pleasure that fashion consumption provides (visiting virtual stores and shopping online), as well as avoiding the loss of class status and, last but not least, evincing an unconscious extension of domestic labour. This article will specifically address the relationships some women maintain between fashion consumption as resistant practices in virtual platforms that trade with second-hand clothes, and formal occupations, leisure, pleasure and an extension of domestic labour.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"47 32","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-02-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139961420","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

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Fashion, Style &amp; Popular Culture最新文献

Fashion, Style & Popular Culture最新文献