{"title":"A woke brand? An analysis of Nike and the limits of corporate social responsibility (CSR) in the fashion-industrial complex","authors":"Sha’Mira Covington, Katalin Medvedev","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00256_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00256_1","url":null,"abstract":"In an era marked by heightened social consciousness and impacted by Black Lives Matter (BLM), fashion brands worldwide endeavour to position themselves as socially responsible. This study scrutinizes Nike, a global leader in the fashion-industrial complex, and its ‘woke’ corporate social responsibility (CSR) practices. By conducting a detailed case study of Nike’s ‘woke’ CSR initiatives and analysing social media user comments, the research seeks to unveil the tensions and constraints of ‘woke’ CSR. The study investigates the social media discourse surrounding Nike’s image, focusing on racial consciousness and concludes that the brand’s ‘woke’ CSR initiatives are not transformative; they merely perform wokeness. The analysis uncovered three common themes in the social media data: (1) the commodification of BLM, (2) commodity activism and (3) woke-washing. By examining the limits of Nike’s ‘woke’ CSR practices within the fashion-industrial complex, this study provides insights into the challenges and opportunities for brands seeking to meet socially conscious consumers’ evolving expectations.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"80 S1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141016306","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Hanfu catwalk shows: A performance of Chinese femininities","authors":"Yan Jia, Anneke Smelik","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00244_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00244_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article analyses the complex relationship between the construction of gender identities among young Chinese females and the practice of dressing up in Hanfu attire. The study employs the perspectives of dress as a situated embodied practice, the performativity of gender and the catwalk as a form of performance art. By drawing on an ethnography of self-defined Hanfu fans in Beijing, China, the authors investigate how the female participants construct femininities through performing on Hanfu catwalks. The ethnographic findings are that, first, the Hanfu catwalk mediates the intricate interplay of Chinese aesthetic norms and gender expression between performers and the audience. Second, wearing Hanfu is an embodied practice unifying the Hanfu costume style, gender construction and corporeal acts, situated in China’s sociopolitical context. Third, Chinese femininity is complex, with both flexibility and internal conflicts, reflecting China’s paradoxical modernization.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"101 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140238099","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Julio Pasha Arigi, Zinggara Hidayat, Christopher Cornelis Lie, Hanan Muhardiansyah
{"title":"Indonesian metrosexuals on Instagram: A phenomenological approach of male fashion style experiences in communicating the identity","authors":"Julio Pasha Arigi, Zinggara Hidayat, Christopher Cornelis Lie, Hanan Muhardiansyah","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00242_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00242_1","url":null,"abstract":"This study analyses the self-representation of the Indonesian metrosexual community on Instagram, focusing on how they use the platform to showcase their fashion style and express their identity as consumers and members of society. Metrosexuality is a relatively new phenomenon in Indonesia, but it has quickly gained popularity, particularly among urban men. Metrosexual men are typically highly interested in fashion, beauty and maintaining a healthy lifestyle. They are also more brand-conscious than traditional consumers and are willing to invest in high-quality products. Social media has become an essential platform for the metrosexual community to express themselves and connect with others. Instagram, in particular, has become a popular platform for metrosexual men to share photos and videos of their outfits. This study examines how metrosexual consumers use Instagram to showcase their fashion style through their posts. The study employs a qualitative approach within the constructivist paradigm, using phenomenological research methods, including interviews, observations and a literature review. The informants comprised ten Indonesian male Instagram users with the highest followers and engagement. The study’s findings suggest that metrosexual consumers prioritize comfort and suitability over brand and product prestige for day-to-day activities and social media engagement. Also, the study reveals that metrosexual consumers use Instagram to express themselves and share their activities with others. Their commitment to their appearance extends beyond the online realm to offline settings. The study’s managerial implications underscore the importance of attending to male consumers for products such as clothing.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"107 7","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140238027","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Wholesale Couture: London and Beyond, 1930–1970, Liz Tregenza (2023)","authors":"Jennie Cook","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00247_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00247_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Wholesale Couture: London and Beyond, 1930–1970, Liz Tregenza (2023)\u0000 London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 236 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35024-586-0, h/bk, $115.00","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"45 194","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140236868","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Fashioning Frankenstein: Deathliness, technology and the body in contemporary fashion photography","authors":"L. Rogers","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00246_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00246_1","url":null,"abstract":"The deathly aesthetic of Heroin Chic caused a moral panic in the late 1990s for its aestheticization of cadaverously pale and skeletally thin models. Subsequent photographers have experimented with the female body as a prop, staging high-fashion crime scenes and mimicking the passivity of corpses in prone posture. Fashion photography offers an arena to explore daily life and the national imagination by materializing concepts through a focus on corporeality and compelling stylized visuals. These images therefore represent a commercialized articulation of broader cultural concerns surrounding mortality. Steven Klein’s 2015 fashion editorial ‘Love machine’, published in W magazine, will be analysed to argue that this represents a cultural response to the shifting relationship between the human body and technology. The discourse of human–machine coexistence presents the transhumanist stance as idealized with the fashion field’s agenda of body modification, wellness and leisure assisted and instigated by technology. However, the tone of this shoot presents a less optimistic vision of a posthuman future. Whilst posthuman ideology is decisive and assured in its deference to technology, Klein’s use of Frankensteinian and cyborg motifs evidence the uncertainty and unease with which biological and technical forms begin to blur. The styling of the model as cyborg and the invocation of Frankenstein’s monster are a logical vehicle for personifying the ontological anxieties coming to the fore of public conscience as debates on digital immortality and artificial intelligence become more prevalent.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"59 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140238438","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The dress and commercial image of the American ‘Fat Lady’, 1850–1920","authors":"Kenna Libes","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00245_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00245_1","url":null,"abstract":"In this article, I analyse the genre of ‘Fat Lady’ photographs popular between the mid-nineteenth and mid-twentieth centuries. I assert that there is an archetypal appearance that developed in the 1860s and was standardized by the 1880s, consisting of certain dress, grooming and posing practices that emphasized their subjects’ sizes and presumed social status. Fatness was a performance that these women were employed to embody – one that straddled the lines between corporeal deviance and normality. Freak shows reveal cultural anxieties about bodies. The way Fat Lady performers were costumed reflected concerns about fatness taking up too much space and visibility as well as fatness rendering people immature and androgynous, thereby challenging established sex-role differences; it also revealed the potential erotic allure of extreme body size. Over a century of popularity, Fat Lady performers came to rely on costumes inspired by evening dress, childrenswear and then lingerie, all of which grew scantier as time progressed. Existing cartes de visite, cabinet cards, posters, advertisements, reports from journalists and side show insiders, and rare interviews with the performers themselves provide material for close analysis.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"12 8","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140239387","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Authentic or fake fashion-branded items? Narratives exploring consumers’ perceptions towards copycat brands among Middle Eastern individuals","authors":"Nadine Khair, Nadine Hussam Khair, Tala Murad","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00250_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00250_1","url":null,"abstract":"This study explores the motives behind preferring luxury fashion-branded items and consumers’ perceptions towards copycat brands. A qualitative approach has been adopted in this research as narratives were obtained from 22 participants. Participants share their thoughts on the reasons for preferring luxury fashion-branded items and the meanings they associate with copycat brands. The results and conclusion of the current study indicate that the key reason for purchasing luxury fashion-branded items is status elevation and the urge to conform to and be associated with specific social norms and classes. Therefore, they tend to consume copycat brands because of their inability to purchase authentic brands and of the elevation of status and conformity associated with luxury fashion-branded items. This research also provides insights into understanding the different motivations resulting in the consumption of copycat brands. Precisely, this research underlines the importance of country of consumption in reflecting positive perceptions towards copycat brands. As a result, this research is the first to consider the relationship between the country of consumption and the acceptance of consuming copycat brands among individuals who are affected by status elevation motives and social norms.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"2 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140237594","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Canadian Critical Luxury Studies: Decentring Luxury, Jessica P. Clark and Nigel Lezama (eds) (2022)","authors":"Henry Navarro Delgado","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00248_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00248_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Canadian Critical Luxury Studies: Decentring Luxury, Jessica P. Clark and Nigel Lezama (eds) (2022)\u0000 Bristol: Intellect Ltd, 248 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78938-515-1, h/bk, $93.84\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78938-517-5, e-book, $80.00","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"89 4","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140238258","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Camouflage in popular culture, fashion and accessory design in India","authors":"Nitin Hadap, Charuta Palsodkar","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00243_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00243_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article postulates that recent generations in India, particularly the middle and upper-middle classes, have experienced increased wealth due to the government’s open market policy, introduced after 1991. As a result of this improved financial situation, these consumers are now able to purchase affordable luxury goods. One notable trend emerging from this development is the rise in popularity of camouflage patterns in fashion and accessories. These patterns evoke emotions of military association, rebellion, strength, durability, ruggedness and a sense of distinctiveness from the rest of society. Surprisingly, even though camouflage is intended to conceal and blend in with surroundings, it has become a prominent aspect of popular culture in India. The younger generation aspires to stand out and possess larger-than-life personalities, perhaps influenced by the impact of globalization. Various audio-visual media, such as sci-fi literature and superheroes depicted on over-the-top (OTT) platforms contribute significantly to this trend, with fashion statements playing a crucial role in shaping these perceptions. In response to such demand, even international brands have started producing products featuring camouflage patterns for the Indian market. The widespread popularity of camo fashion and accessories can be observed in almost all public spaces across India.\u0000 The primary focus of this article is on exploring the popularity of camouflage in fashion accessories, design and trends by studying consumers’ preferences for leading global and local brands. Through a comprehensive literature review, a research gap in this area has been identified. The study concentrates on fashion accessories in India and takes a perspective of percolation of camouflage in the fashion market. The methodology involves the study of primary and secondary sources for documentation, and a survey was conducted to gain insights into consumers’ perspectives. By conducting a literature review and a thorough data analysis, the article reaches its conclusions.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"113 12","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140237892","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Conference Workshops","authors":"","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00217_7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00217_7","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"107 40","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140088472","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}