{"title":"Can you be unique by wearing fast fashion? Exploring South African contemporary female consumers’ creative behaviour towards fast fashion uniqueness","authors":"Elizabeth Kempen","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00266_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00266_1","url":null,"abstract":"Contemporary female consumers manage their appearance through current fashion trends and styles. The desire to be unique drives consumers to develop appearances that are perceived to differentiate them from others. In a world where fast fashion delivers multiple copies of one fashion item, it is difficult to imagine if fast fashion could deliver a unique appearance. Little research has considered the possibility of achieving fast fashion uniqueness. The behaviour of South African female consumers and their desire for fast fashion uniqueness as proposed in the theory of the need for uniqueness has also not been researched. The purpose of this study was to determine the meaning of fast fashion uniqueness and the behaviour related to the dimensions of uniqueness. An exploratory descriptive qualitative study was used to determine the fast fashion unique experiences of female fashion shoppers in South Africa. Thematic analysis of electronic individual interviews revealed the meaning of uniqueness manifested through mechanisms of self-expression and design creativity. Contribution to uniqueness theory is expressed through a socially acceptable appearance typified by creative choice counter-conformity behaviour. Unpopular choice counter-conformity behaviour was expressed through precautionary and guarding behaviour. Avoidance of similarity behaviour resulted in similarity acceptance behaviour characterized by helplessness and acceptance of fast fashion duplication, due to the inability to avoid similarity experienced during fast-fashion retail purchases. Coping strategies and avoidance behaviour tactics were applied to avoid fashion similarities. Fashion creativity serves as the mechanism through which contemporary fast fashion consumers achieve fast fashion appearance uniqueness. Fast fashion retailers in South Africa may need to improvise fashion offerings and give consumers alternative appearances to accommodate the creative uniqueness that female consumers are compelled to apply to achieve fast fashion uniqueness.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"124 10","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141667687","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Chinese consumers’ attitudes towards clothing that incorporate Chinese cultural elements: A mixed method study","authors":"Yuan Xi, Jinchi Yip","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00265_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00265_1","url":null,"abstract":"In the globalized fashion market, a growing number of fashion brands and designers are utilizing Chinese cultural elements as a branding strategy to create competitive differentiation and attract Chinese consumers. Nevertheless, Chinese consumers’ attitudes towards different styles of clothing that incorporate Chinese cultural elements remain uncertain. Therefore, the present study aimed to investigate Chinese consumers’ attitudes towards clothing that incorporate Chinese cultural elements. The study also explored the factors that influence their attitudes. A mixed method approach was employed to survey 189 Chinese consumers aged 18–30. The survey encompassed attitude scales and open-ended questions. Paired samples t-tests and inductive coding were used in the data analysis. The study’s findings indicated that Chinese consumers illustrated a significantly positive attitude towards Chinese-style clothing incorporating Chinese cultural elements, compared to global-style clothing incorporating Chinese cultural elements. Moreover, five factors influence Chinese consumers’ attitudes, namely cultural experience with Chinese cultural elements, symbolism of Chinese cultural elements, nationalist sentiments, cultural aesthetics and innovation of clothing, and the harmony between the clothing style and Chinese cultural elements. Practical implications to fashion brands and fashion designers are discussed.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"109 23","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141667307","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Clothes shopping is a chore: Plus-size men’s experiences of clothes shopping in the United Kingdom","authors":"Craig Owen, Sarah Smith","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00263_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00263_1","url":null,"abstract":"The body positivity movement has called for greater inclusion of diverse body types within the fashion industry. Although a growing number of high street womenswear brands now include plus-size ranges and employ curvier models to represent them, UK menswear is still trailing far behind. Fashionable clothing for larger men is scarce, and the lack of research literature on the clothes shopping experiences of UK plus-size male consumers reflects this gap. The current research is the first study to explore male plus-size consumers’ experiences of clothes shopping in the United Kingdom. Semi-structured interviews were conducted online with ten plus-size men, and reflexive thematic analysis was used to generate two key themes. First, the ‘we struggle to fit in’ theme explores plus-size men’s problematic experiences of fitting into shopping environments, fitting in with their peers’ shopping experiences and fitting into clothes. The second theme, ‘we little care about what we wear’, identifies how the men dismissed clothes shopping, fashion and appearance concerns and identified gender differences as a means to justify these actions. Together, these themes demonstrate that plus-size men experience clothes shopping as a chore. Ultimately, we advise menswear brands to use these findings to facilitate a more welcoming, supportive and enjoyable shopping experience for plus-size men.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"4 11","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141668303","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The underground: Alternative scenes and clothing styles in Costa Rica during the 1990s","authors":"Mariela Agüero Barrantes","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00252_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00252_1","url":null,"abstract":"During the 1990s, Costa Rica experienced a growth in young bands performing emergent music genres. From a post-subcultural approach, this article argues that a varied array of young bands from different musical genres and scenes created a sense of unity and support that led to the creation of what was known as ‘the underground scene’ during the 1990s. The ‘underground scene’ served as a platform that opened up a series of spaces that were alternative to the mainstream, where youth groups were able to perform their music and create new styles. In these new spaces, members of the underground developed new clothing styles linked to their musical tastes. By interviewing members of different alternative rock and reggae bands, information was gathered and analysed to visualize the development of these scenes. Members of the scene established their clothing styles based on their icons and could be identified within a specific genre due to their dress. Aesthetics were a mix of influences and bands that came directly from western countries. Americanas (thrift stores) was youth’s primary outlet for clothing hunting and they adopted current styles directly from the United States.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"11 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141701422","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Image and Identity: Mexican Fashion in the Modern Period, Curated by Akemi Luisa Herráez Vossbrink, Meadows Museum SMU, Dallas, TX, 9 September 2021–9 January 2022","authors":"Evan Blackwell","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00253_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00253_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Image and Identity: Mexican Fashion in the Modern Period, Curated by Akemi Luisa Herráez Vossbrink, Meadows Museum SMU, Dallas, TX, 9 September 2021–9 January 2022","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"39 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141688718","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Anti-sacred fashion: The use of profane performative costumes in the black metal music and performances of Nergal and Behemoth","authors":"Lee Barron","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00255_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00255_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article examines the ways in which fashion and costume represent and communicate distinctive anti-authority sentiments and ideological positions and is based on a case study of the Polish black metal artist Adam Darski, otherwise known as Nergal. The article critically explores the ways in which costumes worn by Nergal are confrontational in terms of their subversion of religious garments, adornments and symbols as part of an artistic and political strategy designed to communicate profane stances and critiques in the context of the Catholic church in Poland. The article investigates the communicative nature of costume and fashion, focusing on popular music and the genre of heavy metal, and relates this analysis to the sociology of Emile Durkheim and Marcel Mauss in terms of their conceptions of the sacred and the profane and ritual practice. In this way, Nergal uses the aesthetic of black metal to design and communicate a distinctive oppositional position, in which the use of profane fashion and costume is a central and crucial factor.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"38 5","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141017094","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Undergraduate curators: Production of a justice-oriented fashion museum exhibition","authors":"Kelly L. Reddy-Best","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00258_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00258_1","url":null,"abstract":"The purpose of this scholarship on teaching is to examine how undergraduate students can engage with justice-oriented fashion history through curating a small fashion exhibition as a group project in a single 17-week semester. I explore how both scaffolding and formative assessment techniques shaped this undergraduate learning experience. To build this case study, I drew upon multiple sources including the syllabus, course materials provided to the students, literature used to build the course and my faculty self-ratings. The instructions for the entire project were broken down into smaller tasks due throughout the semester. I found that students were heavily engaged throughout the entire process, particularly when browsing the fashion collection for potential objects. Overall, this project serves as an example for undergraduates curating exhibitions in a one-semester format using a smaller university fashion collection with modest resources overcoming the previously documented roadblocks to using fashion teaching collections.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"32 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141014676","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"When East meets West: The politicization of kei pou (qipao) or cheongsam in Hong Kong","authors":"Jonathan Lee","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00260_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00260_1","url":null,"abstract":"Kei pou (qipao in Mandarin) or cheongsam, the oft-interchangeable style of dress has been labelled as the ‘Chinese national dress’ due to western media. However, the perception originally stems from colonial mindset lacking understanding to the diverse Chinese diaspora. This article argues not only is kei pou or cheongsam the representation of Hong Kong’s local culture, but also the symbolism of Hongkonger’s cultural identity. Through object-based research, the article engages with a rare red quilted kei pou purchased in Hong Kong in the 1980s. The dress illustrates the true Oriental beauty with the symbolism of elegance and sophistication of Hong Kong women from an East Asian perspective. The article clarifies the etymological confusion between kei pou and cheongsam through their stylistic taxonomy and historical development and examines the cultural-political connotations of these two styles of dress and their semiotics in constructing the identity of Hongkongers. Consequently, the research proposes the interconnected relationship between the city and the dress, in which exists not only within the contexts of marginalized culture in the Eurocentric world, but also within the authoritarian-ruled China.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"92 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141015524","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Black women, Brazilian butt lifts and body image: A qualitative study on the role social media play in promoting the thick ideal","authors":"L. Grubbs, Casey R. Stannard","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00257_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00257_1","url":null,"abstract":"Brazilian butt lift (BBL) surgery is defined by the American Board of Cosmetic Surgery as ‘a specialized fat transfer procedure that augments the size and shape of the buttocks without implants’. While members of all ethnic and racial groups elect to get cosmetic surgery, BBLs are especially popular among Black women. Unlike the Eurocentric beauty standard to be as thin as possible, Black women strive for an in-between weight, otherwise known as the thick ideal. This body ideal is based on the Mammy and Jezebel stereotypes of Black women and can cause women with excess or too little curves to feel a sense of inferiority or a lack of racial acceptance. Many prominent Black celebrities and influencers have either had, encouraged or drawn attention to BBLs through various mass media channels, including social media. Thus, this research aimed to understand the trend towards buttock augmentation and body concerns among Black women and examine if social media play a role in sharing information and opinions regarding the procedure within the Black community. The research was guided by two questions: (1) what discussions are Black women having about BBLs on social media? (2) Do conversations about BBLs impact Black women’s body image and body satisfaction? To explore the purpose, videos on TikTok were examined. TikTok, a video-focused social networking platform, was chosen due to its rising popularity, focus on appearance-based content and its emphasis on collaboration and conversation. The results fell under two themes: (1) motivations for having a BBL and (2) resistance against having a BBL. The themes were consistent with previous research done on the relationship between internet use and body image concerns, previous research conducted on the impact of the thick ideal on Black women’s body image and sociocultural theories of self-objectification, social comparison and body surveillance.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"20 79","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141016505","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Service quality expectations of international fashion apparel brands in India: Satisfaction loyalty and the mediating role of culture","authors":"Neetu Singh","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00259_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00259_1","url":null,"abstract":"Service quality is an important determinant of customer brand experience, customer satisfaction and customer loyalty, with cross-cultural differences leading to varied expectations of service from consumers. Our research aims to understand the influence of the service quality expectations and cultural factors that influence customer satisfaction and loyalty, and the moderating role of cultural values on the relationship between customer satisfaction and loyalty of international fashion apparel brand purchasing of young consumers in India. Data collected across 142 young consumers in India via questionnaire are analysed using PLS_SEM structural modelling. The findings indicate that the service quality parameter tangibility has a significantly positive relationship with customer satisfaction while both reliability and formality positively influence customer loyalty. The cultural value self-transcendence depicts a significant positive relationship with customer loyalty, while the moderating effect of conservation on the relationship between customer satisfaction and customer loyalty is also significantly positive, validating the role of cultural values as both a predictor and moderator of customer purchase motivation.","PeriodicalId":513751,"journal":{"name":"Fashion, Style & Popular Culture","volume":"11 43","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141016629","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}