Food and Foodways最新文献

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All jumbled up: authenticity in American culinary history 混乱不堪:美国烹饪史上的真实性
IF 1
Food and Foodways Pub Date : 2020-07-02 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1783810
Emily J. Arendt
{"title":"All jumbled up: authenticity in American culinary history","authors":"Emily J. Arendt","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1783810","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1783810","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper explores the history of jumbles, a type of cookies, through the duration of American history from the colonial period through today. The evolution of jumbles illustrates the ways that recipes have been continually adapted and put to a variety of political and social uses. In particular, this essay seeks to further debates in food studies over the nature of authenticity by exploring the constant recreation of a single recipe (the jumble) alongside the cultural factors that shaped a particular iteration of the cookie at a given moment in time (including but not limited to the American Revolution, the partisan political battles in the early 1800 s, post-Civil War anxieties over heritage and identity, or periods of rapid social change brought about by industrialization in the late 19th and early 20th century). Contextualizing recipes in a particular historical moment suggests that there is no true “historical authenticity” when it comes to cookery. Modern cooks who engage in historical cookery are instead creating dishes that are authentic to their own moment in time, not some essentialized version of the dish rooted in a mythic past. Nor, as the study of jumbles suggests, is this a new process. Exploring the relationship between social, economic, and political trends at key moments in the history of the jumble demonstrates that Americans have long engaged in the process of recreating nostalgic dishes in search of historical authenticity that says more about the taste preferences, political agendas, and social geographies of those cooks than those to whom they pay homage.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1783810","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49570312","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Special section: “Reflections on Food and the Pandemic” 特别部分:“对粮食和大流行病的思考”
IF 1
Food and Foodways Pub Date : 2020-07-02 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1790144
C. Counihan
{"title":"Special section: “Reflections on Food and the Pandemic”","authors":"C. Counihan","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1790144","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1790144","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1790144","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43874899","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Say no to bat fried rice: changing the narrative of coronavirus and Chinese food 对蝙蝠炒饭说不:改变冠状病毒和中国食物的叙述
IF 1
Food and Foodways Pub Date : 2020-07-02 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1794182
M. King
{"title":"Say no to bat fried rice: changing the narrative of coronavirus and Chinese food","authors":"M. King","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1794182","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1794182","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The fear of Chinese food in the United States has risen with the advent of COVID-19, amidst widespread news reports pinpointing a wildlife wet market in Wuhan, China as the origin site of the novel coronavirus. Although scientific evidence for the exact pathway of zoonotic transmission is not yet conclusive, racist, anti-Chinese memes were quick to circulate, including a T-shirt design posted on social media by an art director at Lululemon, which featured an image of “bat fried rice” with the words “No Thank You” in chopstick font on the sleeves. It is important to address the facts of wildlife trade and consumption in China, but it is equally crucial to fight back against racist characterizations of Chinese food as “bat fried rice” with a different kind of Instagrammable image. I have taught an undergraduate seminar on the cultural history of Chinese food at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill for the past eight years, and this year, one of my students shared a photograph of a Chinese family celebrating the New Year in one of her assignments. This image distilled everything I associate with Chinese food— the joy of gathering with family—and stands as a powerful rebuke to the narrative of fear and disgust, replacing it instead with a vision of Chinese food as familiar source of comfort.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1794182","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47367751","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 12
Counting the food miles of sugar in early colonial Australia 计算殖民地早期澳大利亚的食糖里程
IF 1
Food and Foodways Pub Date : 2020-06-26 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1783818
N. Cushing
{"title":"Counting the food miles of sugar in early colonial Australia","authors":"N. Cushing","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1783818","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1783818","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Food miles is a concept developed in the 1990s as a critique of the negative social and environmental consequences of transporting foods over very long distances. While intended to draw attention to a contemporary problem, the movement of food has a long history to which the concept of food miles can be usefully applied. Drawing upon government correspondence, statistics and personal journals, this article investigates the significance of food miles in establishing the colony of New South Wales, Australia, between 1788 and 1800, with a particular emphasis on sugar. While the some of the issues noted at the end of the twentieth century were present, other factors, such as the high costs of transport, associated waste, and food security were of greater concern to those provisioning the colony and led them to seek to reduce food miles by purchasing supplies in the region. However, other priorities, including preferences for familiar foods and for restricting trade to within the British Empire, created a countervailing pressure which kept food miles very high throughout the period under consideration. This study shows that long before the terminology was coined, food miles played a role in decision making around food supplies and invites the application of the concept to other historical periods.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-06-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1783818","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48836030","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Taste, education, and commensality in Copenhagen food schools 哥本哈根饮食学校的品味、教育和共通性
IF 1
Food and Foodways Pub Date : 2020-06-23 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1783817
M. W. Hansen, Stine Rosenlund Hansen, Johan Kristensen Dal, N. H. Kristensen
{"title":"Taste, education, and commensality in Copenhagen food schools","authors":"M. W. Hansen, Stine Rosenlund Hansen, Johan Kristensen Dal, N. H. Kristensen","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1783817","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1783817","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This article analyses food schools in Copenhagen. Organized differently from the majority of Copenhagen schools, twelve food schools have chefs on site and involve pupils in preparing, cooking, and serving the daily meals. Four food schools formed the empirical basis of a qualitative study conducted in 2016, which involved interviewing pupils, food school coordinators, management, and chefs. The empirical data show that food schools entail differing understandings of a common set of visions introduced by the municipality about food education including topics such as taste, teaching and dining atmosphere. The variety of understandings and practices problematize the notion of “best practice” as a way for a municipality to unify the schools and formulate advice for new food schools. Instead, the article emphasizes the need to address the complexity and to open for a broader view on how to work with situated everyday practices also addressing e.g. materiality and bodily aspects. Only by accepting the variety of expressions, the visions of food education can be addressed and worked with in a non-essentialist manner.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-06-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1783817","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43864232","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Jahrbuch für kulinaristik [yearbook of culinary studies]. the german journal of food studies and hospitality Jahrbuch f<e:1> r kulinaristik[烹饪研究年鉴]。德国食品研究与招待杂志
IF 1
Food and Foodways Pub Date : 2020-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1761658
Stephanie Assmann
{"title":"Jahrbuch für kulinaristik [yearbook of culinary studies]. the german journal of food studies and hospitality","authors":"Stephanie Assmann","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1761658","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1761658","url":null,"abstract":"Globalization has advanced at an accelerated pace during the 20th century. This is also true for the expansion of East Asian cuisines in Germany, which is the major theme discussed in the yearbook ...","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-05-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1761658","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41808860","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
A steak with a side of mania: Chasing the real story of Howard Hughes and his obsession with peas 带着狂热一面的牛排:追寻霍华德·休斯和他对豌豆的痴迷的真实故事
IF 1
Food and Foodways Pub Date : 2020-04-02 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1745451
D. Arp
{"title":"A steak with a side of mania: Chasing the real story of Howard Hughes and his obsession with peas","authors":"D. Arp","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1745451","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1745451","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Using food and meals as a basis of approach to a subject establishes almost instant relatability. It can lead to amazing insights, but with the power of this insight comes an equally powerful ability to form cruel judgments and even create myth. Such is the case with Howard Hughes and his compulsive activity regarding meals, especially the size and quantity of the peas served with his customary meal. Although undiagnosed, Hughes exhibited signs of Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder (OCD) through much of his life, with stories of his battles with mental illness ranging from truth to fiction. Hughes’ story shows how a meal practice can be used to shock and malign when such common practices deviate from our norms. This article examines Hughes and his obsession with peas in order to explore how nonstandard actions undertaken as part of a unifying activity—such as food consumption—can be susceptible to sensationalism and myth creation.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-04-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1745451","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44275105","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Crafting innovation: Continuity and change in the “living traditions” of contemporary artisan cheesemakers 工艺创新:当代奶酪工匠的“生活传统”的连续性和变化
IF 1
Food and Foodways Pub Date : 2020-04-02 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1745456
Harry G. West
{"title":"Crafting innovation: Continuity and change in the “living traditions” of contemporary artisan cheesemakers","authors":"Harry G. West","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1745456","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1745456","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Artisan cheese enthusiasts often celebrate the preservation of tradition, while the marketplace in heritage foods pays a premium for products cast as traditional. But ethnographic research with cheesemakers revealed a complex dynamic between continuity and change. Practices that some considered essential to tradition were considered dispensable—even problematic—by others. While external forces compelled some changes, cheesemakers voluntarily—sometimes enthusiastically—embraced others. Cheesemakers sometimes saw new technologies as means of enhancing product quality, consumer safety, environmental sustainability, animal welfare or even crafting practice itself. Those dispensing with elements of tradition often saw doing so as essential to preserving other elements and, hence, continuity was sometimes the very justification for change. This article explores the varied ways in which artisan cheesemakers reconcile innovation and the conservation of tradition, and reveals the inventiveness of those who sustain “living traditions”.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-04-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1745456","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43101503","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 6
The soup of the scholar: food ideology and social order in Song China 文人汤:宋代饮食思想与社会秩序
IF 1
Food and Foodways Pub Date : 2020-04-02 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1748280
Andrea Montanari
{"title":"The soup of the scholar: food ideology and social order in Song China","authors":"Andrea Montanari","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1748280","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1748280","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This essay explores the food discourse elaborated by Chinese intellectuals in the Song period (960–1279) and puts forward a hypothesis concerning its social function. Starting from the Bourdieusian idea that different consumption styles support different visions of the social order, I first define luxurious eating and describe its social diffusion in Song. I then document and analyze the food ideology of frugality, characterized by an emphasis on simple cooking and naturalness as well as by a form of controlled hedonism which I call “Epicurean.” Finally, I offer a sociological interpretation of this food ideology, which I understand as an expression of Song intellectuals’ cultural capital: the scholars euphemistically took position against luxurious eating and the “temporal” (i.e. economic capital dominated) vision of the social order it signified; through the ideology of frugality, they supported an alternative, “spiritual” vision of society in which status is based on culture rather than wealth.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-04-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1748280","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49567723","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Eating the Bubbe: Culinary encounters between secular and haredi jews in Bnei Brak 吃泡泡:Bnei Brak世俗犹太人和哈雷犹太人之间的烹饪相遇
IF 1
Food and Foodways Pub Date : 2020-04-02 DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2020.1745454
Shlomo Guzmen-Carmeli
{"title":"Eating the Bubbe: Culinary encounters between secular and haredi jews in Bnei Brak","authors":"Shlomo Guzmen-Carmeli","doi":"10.1080/07409710.2020.1745454","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2020.1745454","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Over the last few years on Thursday evenings, the main streets of Bnei Brak, one of Israel’s largest haredi (ultra-Orthodox) cities, becomes a culinary meeting place. The Eastern European Jewish cuisine sustained by the haredi kitchen attracts non-haredi visitors to a society that tends to keep to itself. This article presents an ethnographic investigation of a new culinary scene that brings together local haredim and secular visitors. I draw upon the concept of “eating the other” to argue how the “haredi other” represents a complex kind of “otherness,” whose encounters with secular visitors simultaneously mark boundaries and cross them. These encounters demonstrate how culinary tradition can provide a link to collective memory and help build individual and group identities.","PeriodicalId":45423,"journal":{"name":"Food and Foodways","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2020-04-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/07409710.2020.1745454","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46334696","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 3
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