Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America最新文献

{"title":"A Tale of Two Bloomer Costumes","authors":"Laura J. Ping","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1934267","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1934267","url":null,"abstract":"This article analyzes the history of two extant bloomer costumes from the 1850 s, one in the collections of the San Diego History Center and the other in the Cortland County, New York Historical Society. An analysis of the two bloomer costumes reveals two different styles of dress-reform outfits worn by women during this era. Biographical information on the women who owned these outfits expands upon the reasons the wearers might have chosen one design over another. Through a material culture analysis of these outfits and a textual analysis of the history of dress reform, I argue that for a variety of reasons nineteenth-century women might have owned, but perhaps not worn, a bloomer costume.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"139 - 153"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1934267","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47634435","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Wig: A Hairbrained History","authors":"M. Gayne","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1929586","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1929586","url":null,"abstract":"In his “Otherworldly Prologue,” the Mexican essayist, poet, and writer Luigi Amara tells us that his collection of short essays, The Wig: A Hairbrained History, might well be considered “nothing more than a rather bulky footnote” (10) to this century-old, twelveword sentence crafted by the Mexican economist, professional journalist, and Baudelaire-inspired weird fiction author Carlos Diaz Dufoo Jr. Amara refers to Dufoo’s epigram as an “authentic oneline novel” (10), and by the end of his book, the idea of it being a footnote seems fully viable. Readers, general and specialized, will delight in many of the thirty-two short essays with illustrations contained in this collection. Amara wanders through the world of the wig from the past, to the present, to the past, to the future, and to the galaxy, sometimes within the very same lyrically pleasing paragraph. The book bears no relation to other popular culture texts that seek to offer a micro-global history of an object, such as Tom Standage’s A History of the World in Six Glasses. Nor is it comparable to scholarly works that detail largescale global social processes through the lens of a single fabric or a Walmart Tshirt, such as Giorgio Riello’s Cotton: The Fabric That Made the Modern World or Pietra Rivoli’s The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy. More than anything, Amara offers a series of dazzling opportunities to discover his creative intellectual process. Given his command of his subject and hefty range of analytical tools to think reflexively across the historical landscape of western civilization, this collection implies a journey","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"221 - 223"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42303268","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Fashioning a “Male Actress”","authors":"Michael Mamp","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1932113","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1932113","url":null,"abstract":"This research documents the fashioning of Charles Pierce, a prominent female impersonator in the mid-to-late twentieth century. During his career of over forty years, Pierce delivered acclaimed comedic impressions of gay icons such as Bette Davis and Katharine Hepburn. This paper contextualizes and interprets the development of Pierce’s cross-dressing from tuxedo and a few woman’s fashion accessories (to avoid arrest) to full drag. Pierce’s career as self-styled “male actress” coincided with the gay liberation movement. Much has been written about drag, less about female impersonators, and no known research examining their costumes. This article thus provides a rare analysis of the material culture of female impersonation through Pierce’s costumes and accessories at the ONE National Gay and Lesbian Archives at the University of Southern California plus the Charles Pierce papers at the Billy Rose Theater Division of the New York Library for the Performing Arts.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"121 - 137"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1932113","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47318677","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Costume Society of America Fellow 2021 Gayle Strege","authors":"Deborah A. Brothers","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1957323","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1957323","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"231 - 232"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45801044","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Silk Mania in the Auburn Prison, 1841–44","authors":"D. Green, N. Breen","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1877975","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1877975","url":null,"abstract":"From 1841 to 1844, the Auburn Prison in New York State, now the Auburn Correctional Facility, was the location of an early experiment in the manufacture of sewing silk, a type of thread used in garment production. Incarcerated men worked in throwing mills to transform cocoons into sewing silk; they reeled, combed, and dyed silk filaments, added twist, and wound the thread onto bobbins. The Auburn Prison agent solicited cocoons from silk farmers and thereby supported an incipient local sericulture cottage industry. By 1843 the prison had become the leading buyer of raw silk cocoons in the United States. In this report, we chronicle the rise and fall of silk production in the Auburn Prison within the context of the Auburn Prison System, also known as the “Congregate System,” and a larger “silk mania” across the northeastern United States in the second quarter of the nineteenth century.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"155 - 166"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-03-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1877975","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42205176","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Solutions","authors":"Elaine L. Pedersen","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1855849","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1855849","url":null,"abstract":"The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Solutions provides an overview of past and current fashionrelated dangers. The editors, Sara B. Marcketti from Iowa State University and Elena E. Karpova from University of North Carolina at Greensboro, have developed and organized an informative and thought-provoking book. Though a wealth of scholarly and popular literature on most subjects found in this book exists, The Dangers of Fashion presents a new view. The book examines the breadth of individuals and communities who are touched and often harmed because of the fashion industry or its products. It covers fashion-production choices and their consequences ranging across the textile and apparel pipeline from fiber production to retailing, along with the consequences of fashion product consumption and the disposal of fashion products. The book contains four sections: “The Moral and Ethical Dangers in Fashion,” “The Dangers of Making Fashion,” “The Dangers of Consuming Fashion,” and “The Dangers of Caring for and Disposing of Fashion.” Each section includes three to five chapters that range from eleven to twenty-one pages including references. Because of the variety of subjects, the book offers great breadth but not depth. The targeted reader","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"95 - 97"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1855849","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48282149","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Costumes of the Pavley-Oukrainsky Ballet","authors":"Josée Chartrand","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1762345","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1762345","url":null,"abstract":"This study explores selected costumes worn by founding members of the early twentieth-century Pavley-Oukrainsky Ballet based in Chicago and a variety of historical documents pertaining to the company from the collection of the Museum of Performance and Design, San Francisco, to explore how the company used exotic influences as inspiration, which helped to develop a new genre of ballet in the United States. These sources address how the analysis of costumes can shed light on the historical significance of the Pavley-Oukrainsky Ballet, an otherwise little-known American ballet troupe. Using a material culture methodology, two garments are explored as case studies: a loincloth and a torso ornament. The descriptions, deductions, and speculations of each artifact are combined with primary and secondary sources about the company to contextualize and understand the role of dress in the Pavley-Oukrainsky Ballet.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"45 - 60"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1762345","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49612056","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"In Memoriam","authors":"Kelly L. Reddy-Best","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1855853","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1855853","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"119 - 120"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1855853","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43540716","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"WOMEN EMPOWERED: Fashions from the Frontline","authors":"J. Ayres","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1887688","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1887688","url":null,"abstract":"In November 2018, CNN, Teen Vogue, The Hill, and even Fox News reported that Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (AOC) had loaned her shoes to a fashion exhibit at Cornell University (FIGURE 1). Worn-through shoes would typically be excluded from fashion collections, except that this pair had a special significance: the dirt and holes illustrated the miles of New York City blocks AOC walked as she went door-to-door gathering signatures for her campaign for New York’s Fourteenth Congressional District. Her shoes are also a refreshing testament to democracy—she did not buy her votes or seat; rather, she devoted the energy and put in the painstaking work of talking to the everyday-voting public to marshal support for her political bid. Thus, AOC’s shoes encapsulate the heart and soul of this exhibition and fashion studies in general: clothes matter, their materiality and the way they are worn (or worn-through) matter, and they matter profoundly for what we think is possible. This exhibition tells the story of how women, from the end of the nineteenth century to the present, have used dress and accouterments indirectly in roles that challenged the status quo and directly to assert their political rights and take their rightful positions in public spaces. Professor Denise Nicole Green, faculty advisor of the exhibition, explained in an interview that the overall aim was to showcase the concrete and specific material culture and garments of women’s lives to illustrate how fashion is a vehicle for political change and how “people who are marginalized use Promotional material for the exhibition featuring an archival photograph of Coretta Scott King speaking at a labor rally. Courtesy of the Kheel Center for LaborManagement Documentation & Archives at Cornell University","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"113 - 117"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1887688","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48272682","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Reading Fashion in Art","authors":"Laura Beltrán-Rubio","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1872973","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1872973","url":null,"abstract":"In Reading Fashion in Art, Ingrid E. Mida offers a guide to analyzing representations of dress in the visual arts. She argues that “dress can be read as an artistic tool of expression that can be unraveled to reveal something about the ideas that were percolating in society at that time” (15). Such ideas include the shared understandings of gender, beauty, power, status, race, and ethnicity that form the context in which the works of art are created. Because of the importance of representations of fashion in the communication of aesthetic, social, and cultural norms and ideals, close-looking at dress in art becomes a tool for the study of both art history and dress history, as well as other related disciplines. This beautifully illustrated book thus offers a series of guidelines for the reader to adopt in the study of works of art depicting human bodies, both dressed and undressed. The objective of the book is to offer a method to engage in the “slow approach to seeing” that Mida has championed through her scholarship and to teach the readers how to “confidently develop a critical analysis of what they see” in art (9). Through the combination of a checklist-based approach and a series of case studies that offer interpretations achieved using Mida’s proposed methodology, the book is a powerful handbook for analyzing the politics of representation of dress in art. Reading Fashion in Art is divided into ten chapters with an introduction, a coda, and three appendices with the checklists for the process of “reading” fashion in art. The book is richly illustrated with images printed in colors that often fill an entire page. Each chapter contains several images of the works of art being analyzed as well as related works of art, drawings, costume plates, and photographs of historical garments. Mida introduces her book with an analysis of what is arguably one of the most famously dressed images in the history of art—Elisabeth Louise Vig ee Le Brun’s portrait of Marie Antoinette in a Chemise Dress (1783). Using this painting as a starting point, Mida offers a justification for the importance of analyzing representations of fashioned","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"103 - 105"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1872973","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44255084","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}