Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America最新文献

{"title":"All Dolled Up: Fashioning Cultural Expectations","authors":"Rebecca Halliday","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2022.2028466","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2022.2028466","url":null,"abstract":"All Dolled Up: Fashioning Cultural Expectations is an exhibition in miniature. While its purview is a cultural politics of dolls, it nonetheless resonates at the levels of the personal, the corporeal, and the affective. It couches its potent artifacts in an intimate environ. Sparse wooden flats at the entrance evoke a sense of crated containment and orient us toward the one-room exhibition space, with white partitions that frame and segment the area, illustrated with full-scale, black, pop-art outlines of furniture and fixtures that reinforce our enclosure. Each doll is housed in a glass display case for our inspection but in no instance for our tactile interaction. In his examination of dolls, marionettes, and automata as featured in the fields of fashion and art, Adam Geczy situates the doll as a beacon for our embodied anxieties, aspirations, desires, and pleasures, in its uncanniness as humanlike double or as other. The wall illustrations of domestic and retail environments imbue the dolls with a dual condition as keepsakes, as complex, intricate, and often immaculate material objects, on which we manifest attachments—as what Sara Ahmed terms happy objects, those items that “affect us in the best way”—that “take up residence within our bodily horizon,” as immediate even if untouchable. The exhibition room is divided into a series of smaller sections that evoke dwellings and retail spaces. The first sections indicate particular rooms or domains within a domestic realm, from a living room with curtained windows to an armoire with clothes and accessories—then a row of mirror-outlines, a liminal point between private and public, toilette and cosmetics counter. The domestic space presents a selection of iconic westernized dolls that for decades have informed children’s self-perception and expectations of gendered labor and comportment. Barbie—the confluence of aspiration and eroticism—is present in a reproduction of her 1959 template, sporting her black-and-white striped 1 Adam Geczy, The Artificial Body in Fashion and Art: Marionettes, Models, and Mannequins (London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2018).","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"97 - 100"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43043053","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"In Memoriam","authors":"I. Brooks-Myers","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2022.2047363","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2022.2047363","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"65 1","pages":"95 - 96"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"59433878","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Ravishing: The Rose in Fashion","authors":"H. Franklin","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.2022283","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.2022283","url":null,"abstract":"As a point of inspiration, a motif, and decorative element, the rose’s ubiquity in fashion is arguably unrivaled. Ravishing: The Rose in Fashion, an exhibition mounted at The Museum at FIT in New York, explored the rose as a source of inspiration for fashion. As the exhibition makes clear, the rose holds so many layered meanings that everyone can find an element of the bloom that speaks to them. In this way, the rose’s ubiquity is its power; it appears on the most delicate of debutante gowns and the most severe mourning dress. A rose is both beautiful and treacherous, elitist and democratic, fragile and resilient. It is also a symbol of love and deceit, life and death. As a starting point for an exhibition, the rose offers seemingly endless avenues of study. Co-curated by Amy de la Haye, chair of Dress History and Curatorship and joint director of the Centre for Fashion Curation at London College of Fashion, and Colleen Hill, curator of costume and accessories at MFIT, the exhibition Ravishing examined how the rose has influenced fashion and has multi-faceted layers of meaning. Over 130 objects were on display, including women’s and men’s clothing and accessories that dated from ca. 1735 to the present. The garments, which were sourced from the museum’s collection or acquired for the exhibition, were as diverse as an embroidered 1810 gown to a 2019 catwalk look from the New York menswear label Nihl. The exhibition was divided into two sections, arranged to resemble gardens. The first gallery was a “rose garden of hats.” Each hat was placed upon a green 1 Amy de la Haye, Ravishing: The Rose in Fashion (London: Yale University Press, 2020), 12.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"101 - 105"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43205404","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"“Brothers-in-Law”","authors":"Forrest D. Pass","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1988272","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1988272","url":null,"abstract":"A Masonic apron in the collection of the Canadian Museum of History has an unusual story: produced in rural Vermont in the 1820s, seven decades later it came into the possession of Ralph Lawton Broadbent, a Canadian civil servant and Mason. This research report proposes a biography for the apron in the intervening years and hints at the multiple possible meanings that Masons might attribute to their intriguing ceremonial garments. An esoteric symbol of lodge membership and fictive brotherhood, a Masonic apron also could symbolize other relationships; in this example, the apron appears to have descended to its final owner through a female line and thus may represent the bonds between fathers-in-law and sons-in-law","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"21 - 31"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-11-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47246392","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Pointe Shoes","authors":"C. Lawry","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1985834","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1985834","url":null,"abstract":"This research report examines a contemporary debate within the ballet world about Gaynor Minden pointe shoes. Gaynor Minden represents the first disruptive innovation to pointe shoe designs in 200 years. These innovative shoes reduce the severe pain of learning to dance on pointe, but ballet traditionalists disapprove of Gaynor Minden on the grounds that they dilute the pointe tradition. This report presents an opposing view through an historical analysis and the recontextualization of pointe shoes as invented traditions. This analysis shows that pointe shoes are morphological and have undergone constant reinvention throughout ballet history. Diverse inventors, including choreographers, dancers, and shoemakers, commodified and mystified pointe shoes, linking the pain of dancing on pointe with aesthetic and social values. Hence, Minden shoes do not dilute the tradition of dancing on pointe insomuch as threaten pointe shoes as markers of exclusivity within ballet.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"55 - 64"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-11-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41611926","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Visibly Queer- and Trans-Fashion Brands and Retailers in the Twenty-First Century","authors":"Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Kyra G. Streck, Jennifer Farley Gordon","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1967606","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1967606","url":null,"abstract":"Socially conscious fashion entrepreneurs in the twenty-first century built many of the first visibly queer- and trans-focused fashion brands. In this paper, we critically examine nine of these brands that produced and distributed undergarments or other objects worn near or against the skin, such as binders, packers, underwear, lingerie, and bras. We draw upon oral histories with the brand directors, objects from each company, news articles, and online content. The brands emerged during significant socio-cultural and political changes and simultaneously engaged in dismantling and queering the past oppressive notions of the fashion industry. Unlike mainstream representation that often has positioned fashionable queer people as thin, cisgender, and white, these brands embraced an intersectional and social-justice lens throughout their business processes. The history of these brands demonstrates the interconnected complexity of fashioning queer and trans identities, fashion commodities, and fashion activist philosophies in the twenty-first-century capitalist marketplace.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"33 - 53"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-10-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48189728","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Costume Society of America Fellow 2021 Patricia Hunt-Hurst","authors":"Sara B. Marcketti","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1957319","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1957319","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"229 - 230"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47053680","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"CSA Scholars’ Roundtable Presentation","authors":"K. Depauw, K. Morris, Linda Pisano, Eulanda A. Sanders, Sarah Scaturro, Kelly L. Reddy-Best, C. Keist","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1966229","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1966229","url":null,"abstract":"The Costume Society of America (CSA) Scholars’ Roundtable Honor committee is charged with nominating scholars to lead a discussion at the national symposium that challenges the organization members to think about future possibilities. In 2021, five CSA Scholars’ Roundtable Honorees (Karen DePauw, Kristen Morris, Linda Pisano, Eulanda Sanders, and Sarah Scaturro) discussed the purpose, place, and future of design and curatorial scholarship. In this session, Kelly L. Reddy-Best and Carmen Keist, 2019 honorees, moderated the session. Carmen began by asking the panelists questions such as “In what ways can CSA be flexible to allow for new directions in scholarship?” This year, CSA held the symposium digitally due to COVID-19. Following the pre-prepared questions, individuals from the audience offered comments and questions to the panel via the chat box. In this paper, we provide a verbatim transcription of the session.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"199 - 216"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46167640","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Women’s Lives and Clothes in WW2: Ready for Action","authors":"N. Turner","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1929638","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1929638","url":null,"abstract":"Lucy Adlington sets the theme of Women’s Lives and Clothes in WW2: Ready for Action with this statement predicting the contribution of women all over the world during the Second World War. Women in military service or at home played a greater role than in any war in the past. Adlington has done a tremendous amount of research to assemble this fascinating compilation of stories of women’s courage, commitment, and ingenuity to survive and defeat the enemy. The theme of clothing is woven throughout the women’s stories. Adlington explains that clothes are","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"225 - 227"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1929638","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46360712","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Welcome to Vol. 47, No. 2","authors":"Tina Bates","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1964251","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1964251","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"i - i"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48742842","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}