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Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America最新文献

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Captured in the Clothing 在衣服里被捕
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2022-04-07 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2022.2039484
E. Farrell, E. McKee
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引用次数: 0
Fashion Out of Scranton 时尚出斯克兰顿
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2022.2029007
Sarah Hegge, S. Wajda, M. Worrall
{"title":"Fashion Out of Scranton","authors":"Sarah Hegge, S. Wajda, M. Worrall","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2022.2029007","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2022.2029007","url":null,"abstract":"The One Hour Dress was considered a “sensation” when introduced in 1923 by sewing and fashion expert Mary Brooks Picken (1886–1968) of the Woman’s Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences in Scranton, Pennsylvania. Through demonstrations held at American department stores between 1923 and 1925, Picken sought to stop a national decline in sales of sewing equipment and supplies. Endorsement by film actress Mae Marsh (1894–1968) linked the dress with Hollywood glamour at a time when celebrity and mass consumption were changing the fashion industry and advertising. Reconstructing the One Hour Dress led to a re-examination of the Michigan State University Museum’s historic dress collection, where was found a garment constructed along similar lines. The authors offer guidelines to identify One Hour-type dresses. The One Hour Dress, as a teaching tool, offers a case study for studying the past to merge pre-industrial dressmaking (local production, customization) and modern standards of quality and style.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"65 - 83"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49602802","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men’s Fashion 《丹迪风格:英国男士时尚250年
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2022.2029023
Chloe Chapin
{"title":"Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men’s Fashion","authors":"Chloe Chapin","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2022.2029023","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2022.2029023","url":null,"abstract":"This beautifully produced catalogue can whet our appetite for a stunning exhibition that will open the new Fashion Gallery at the Manchester Art Gallery in October 2022. The exhibition is based on the collection formerly housed at the Gallery of Costume at Platt Hall, an affiliate of the Manchester Art Gallery. The Platt Hall gallery was founded in 1947 with the substantial collection of dress historians Willet and Phillis Cunnington, and the size and scope of its collection rivals those of the Victoria & Albert Museum and the Fashion Museum in Bath. The Platt Hall building itself is now being repaired and reconceived for other purposes, and the dress collection is being re-housed in the main museum. The catalogue’s substantial introduction is co-written by the editors and exhibition co-curators: Miles Lambert, long-time costume curator at Platt Hall, and Shaun Cole, associate professor of fashion at the University of Southampton. Additional contributors for the following eight chapters include curators Rebecca Milner and Ben Whyman, performance studies scholar Kate Dorney, and lecturer in fashion and masculinity Jay McCauley Bowstead. Taken together, this collection represents a wide range of approaches within current menswear scholarship, through the lens of one substantial collection. The well-written text demonstrates a sophisticated level of primary source analysis and offers multiple methodological approaches that demonstrate the variety of ways in which men’s fashion manifests itself in the cultural imaginary. Fashion plates show what is fashionable, while satirical cartoons make fun of those who take dressing to excess. Beautifully photographed historical garments and images of contemporary runway fashion models show off high-end design and construction on the idealized figure. Portrait paintings and studio photography portraits show how men and designers want to be perceived, while street photography and close-up","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"111 - 113"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42223923","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Dress Codes: How the Laws of Fashion Made History 《着装规范:时尚法则如何创造历史
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2022.2029024
C. Oberg
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引用次数: 6
Sporting Fashion: Outdoor Girls, 1800 to 1960 运动时尚:户外女孩，1800到1960
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2021.2004022
K. Jones
{"title":"Sporting Fashion: Outdoor Girls, 1800 to 1960","authors":"K. Jones","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.2004022","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.2004022","url":null,"abstract":"Sporting Fashion: Outdoor Girls, 1800 to 1960, a traveling exhibition jointly sponsored by the American Federation of Arts and the FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising and curated by Kevin L. Jones and Christina M. Johnson, made its debut at the Frick Art Museum in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, on July 3, 2021. The art gallery on the grounds of industrialist Henry Clay Frick’s Clayton estate was a canny choice for an exhibition that examines the dress of women of leisure as they increasingly ventured outside of the domestic sphere from the early nineteenth to the mid-twentieth century. The Frick is the exhibition’s first stop, and additional venues will follow through at least 2024. The stated curatorial mission is to “chart the cultural and material developments that allowed women to make their way outdoors” and to “reconstruct a material history of women in sport through the garments and accessories that enabled them to participate, compete, and excel.” The exhibition consists of 480 objects (some excluded at the Frick, likely due to space limitations) divided among eight themes. The themes are organized around the leisure or sporting activity for which the objects were worn—some narrow, like the evolution of bathing to swimming costume in “Making Waves,” and others broad, like “Further Afield” that ran the gamut from international travel to hunting. The clever use of mannequins in suspended animation, particularly in “Subzero Style” (FIGURE 1), addressed the problem of how one can instill movement in a static exhibition about bodies in motion. A silent-film reel of early twentieth-century women engaged in sporting events also furthered this initiative. Vitrines of sporting accessories and framed print media 1 For six other venues and dates for this traveling exhibition, see <https://www.amfedarts.org/sporting-fashion/>. The final venue will be the FIDM Museum in 2024.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"107 - 110"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46772995","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Queering the Subversive Stitch: Men & the Culture of Needlework 追寻颠覆性的缝合：人与刺绣文化
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2022.2029025
Andrew Campbell
{"title":"Queering the Subversive Stitch: Men & the Culture of Needlework","authors":"Andrew Campbell","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2022.2029025","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2022.2029025","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"119 - 121"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49290115","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Correction 修正
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2022.2020973
{"title":"Correction","authors":"","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2022.2020973","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2022.2020973","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"123 - 123"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43835606","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Welcome to Vol. 48, No. 1 欢迎来到第48卷第1期
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2022.2066899
Tina Bates
{"title":"Welcome to Vol. 48, No. 1","authors":"Tina Bates","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2022.2066899","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2022.2066899","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"i - ii"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47374833","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
The Garb of White Nationalism in the Nineteenth-Century United States 19世纪美国白人民族主义的萌芽
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2022.2027666
S. Tomc
{"title":"The Garb of White Nationalism in the Nineteenth-Century United States","authors":"S. Tomc","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2022.2027666","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2022.2027666","url":null,"abstract":"This article examines the development of sartorial visual itineraries for nativism and white nationalism in the United States between about 1840 and 1865. For scholars studying the history of racism in the United States, the documents of so-called “scientific racism” are of paramount importance. These privilege the biovisual body as a site of epistemological and ontological truth. But the first years of the nineteenth century witnessed the proliferation of racialist taxonomies based not on the physical body but on alleged manifestations of ancestral and racial spirit in dress. Using evidence from contemporary costume albums, maps, and theatre prints, this essay argues that US nativist movements took their bodily iconography from a ballooning transatlantic popular and ethnographic interest in what today we call “traditional” or “ethnic” dress, turning nativist figures into folk types, colorful characters who could represent the purity of the so-called Anglo-Saxon US people in their style of dress.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"1 - 20"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43256952","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Pucci (Paper) Patterns, 1956–73 普奇(纸)图案，1956-73
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2021.2022284
Sarah Sheehan
{"title":"Pucci (Paper) Patterns, 1956–73","authors":"Sarah Sheehan","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.2022284","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.2022284","url":null,"abstract":"Established in 1947, the house of Pucci is best known for its iconic prints. Yet even before the Puccimania of the Swinging Sixties, commercial sewing patterns were an important part of Pucci’s popular reception. Over the course of almost two decades, Emilio Pucci licensed his fashion designs with American pattern companies including the McCall Corporation and the Vogue Pattern Service, the independent offshoot of Vogue magazine. This preliminary overview documents how Pucci’s work was represented and marketed to home dressmakers during this period (1956–73). A look at vintage Pucci patterns in context shows how this designer licensing intersects not only with trends in luxury sportswear and textile development but also changing ideas of leisure, modernity, and Italian fashion.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"48 1","pages":"85 - 93"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2022-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42258176","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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