Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America最新文献

{"title":"Disseminating Dress: Britain’s Fashion Networks, 1600–1970Disseminating Dress: Britain’s Fashion Networks, 1600–1970Edited by Serena Dyer, Jade Halbert, and Sophie LittlewoodLondon: Bloomsbury, 2022","authors":"Emily Mayagoitia","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2267340","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2267340","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":" 10","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135291156","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"2023 Scholars’ Roundtable","authors":"Adam MacPhàrlain, Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Petra Slinkard, Leon Wiebers","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2261794","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2261794","url":null,"abstract":"AbstractThe 2023 CSA Scholars’ Roundtable focused on the role of collaboration within teaching, learning, costume design, and museum practice. The scholars reflected on the challenges, successes, opportunities, and failures encountered when engaging in collaboration. This report is based on an edited and condensed transcript of the authors’ panel presentation and summarizes the audience’s comments and discussion.Keywords: critical thinkingfashioninterdisciplinaryhistorical societiesmuseumstheaterqueer Notes1 Kelly L. Reddy-Best and Dana Goodin, “QueerCrip Fashion in the Twenty-First Century: Sky Cubacub and the QueerCrip Dress Reform Movement,” Clothing Cultures 5, no. 3 (2018): 333–57, https://doi.org/10.1386/cc.5.3.333_1. See also Aison Kafer, Feminist Queer Crip (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2013).2 Kelly L. Reddy-Best and Eric D. Olson, “Trans Traveling and Embodied Practices: Panopticism, Agency, Dress, and Gendered Surveillance,” Annals of Tourism 85 (2020), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.annals.2020.103028; Eric D. Olson and Kelly L. Reddy-Best, “‘Pre-Topsurgery, the Body Scanning Machine Would Most Likely Error.’ Transgender and Gender Nonconforming Travel and Tourism Experiences,” Tourism Management 70 (2019): 250–61, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tourman.2018.08.024; Kelly L. Reddy-Best and Eric D. Olson, “Packers, Diolaters, and the Options for Either Male or Female: Navigating Movement of Transgender and Gender Non-Conforming Bodies, Appearances and Luggage Through Airport Security,” Fashion, Style, and Popular Culture 7, no. 2–3 (2020): 223–46, https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00016_1.3 Michel Foucault, Discipline and Punish: The Birth of the Prison (New York: Pantheon Books, 1977).4 Vishakha Chauhan, Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Mahim Sagar, Arbuda Sharma, and Karan Lamba, “Apparel Consumption and Embodied Experiences of Gay Men and Transgender Women in India: Variety and Ambivalence, Fit Issues, LGBT-Fashion Brands, and Affordability,” Journal of Homosexuality 68, no. 9 (2021): 1444–70, https://doi.org/10.1080/00918369.2019.1698914.5 Kelly L. Reddy-Best and Eunji Choi, “‘Male Hair Cannot Extend Below Plane of the Shoulder’ and ‘No Cross Dressing.’ Critical Queer Analysis of High School Dress Codes in the United States,” Journal of Homosexuality 67, no. 9 (2020): 1290–1340, https://doi.org/10.1080/00918369.2019.1585730.6 Dashka Slater, “The Fire on the 57 Bus in Oakland,” New York Times, January 29, 2015.7 Nancy Gebhart and Kelly L. Reddy-Best, “Slogan T-shirts: Liberalism, Abolition, and Commodity Activism in the Midwestern United States,” Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty 13, no. 2 (2022): 255–77, https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00048_1.8 Devon W. Carbado, “Colorblind Intersectionality,” Signs: Journal of Women and Culture in Society 38, no. 4 (2013): 811–45; Roopali Mukherjee and Sarah Banet-Weiser, Commodity Activism: Cultural Resistance in Neoliberal Times (New York: New York University Press, 2012); Chela Sandoval and Guisela Latorre, ","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"92 3","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135679116","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style","authors":"Mary Farley","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2224076","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2224076","url":null,"abstract":"Over the last half-century, hip hop has cemented itself as one of most influential cultural movements globally. Its origins can be traced to Cindy and Clive Campbell’s (aka DJ Kool Herc) legendary back-to-school party held on August 11, 1973, in their Bronx apartment building. From this singular event, hip hop became a global phenomenon with style being one of its most significant and enduring manifestations. With Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style, The Museum at FIT presented a sweeping retrospective using over 150 objects sourced from fifty lenders that examined hip hop’s relationship with fashion over the last half-century. Co-curated by Elizabeth Way, Associate Curator, and Elena Romero, Assistant Professor of Advertising and Marketing Communications, the exhibition Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style addressed how hallmarks of aspiration, inventiveness, and individualization within hip hop style pushed sartorial boundaries and infused itself within mainstream culture. In an interview with the New York Times, Romero observed: “Fashion is the original sixth element of hip hop . . . . Aspirations become a reality through what we wear. From nameplates to chains, it’s a way of being seen, and wearing the right clothes is a way to announce yourself to the world.” Upon descending the staircase to the Museum at FIT’s main galleries, visitors encountered a large image of Kool K and DJ Lee Rock posed in front of a busy merchandise display (Figure 1). In this photo, Kool K and Rock are wearing clothing typically associated with hip hop style’s earliest iterations with Lee jeans, gold name-plate jewelry, and newsboy caps. Upon first glance this introductory image seemed to be a visual portal to a bygone New York, but Jamel Shabazz photographed the image in 2019 for the denim brand Lee’s Spring/Summer 2019 campaign. This visual flattening of time between hip hop’s aesthetic origins and its current interpretations presented a strong entry point for viewers, emphasizing the style’s sartorial longevity as well as its roots in New York City. Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous was split between two primary gallery spaces and was organized thematically rather than chronologically. The smaller, front 1 Elena Romero and Elizabeth Way, “Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style.” https://www.fitnyc. edu/museum/exhibitions/hip-hopstyle.php.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"163 - 168"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44374930","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Refashioning: CFGNY and Wataru Tominaga","authors":"Emily Mushaben","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2223001","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2223001","url":null,"abstract":"The Japan Society’s exhibition Refashioning: CFGNY and Wataru Tominaga challenged visitors to think beyond their preconceptions of how contemporary art exhibitions are presented and to explore the nuances of identity. Curated by Tiffany Lambert in collaboration with the artist collective Concept Foreign Garments New York (CFGNY) and designer Wataru Tominaga, the aim of the exhibition was to present “two emerging fashion labels that engage with the intersections between fashion, art, and identity.” CFGNY is a New Yorkbased artist collective founded in 2016 by artists Tin Nguyen and Daniel Chew and expanded with the addition of Kirsten Kilponen and Ten Izu in 2020. Wataru Tominaga is a Tokyo-based fashion designer who founded his eponymous brand in 2019. Curated as two individual yet symbiotic gallery spaces—one dedicated to CFGNY and the other to Wataru Tominaga, a long hallway bridged the two galleries so viewers could seamlessly flow from one room to the next. This subtle transition aided in promoting the audience’s appreciation of how the work of these artists were separate but connected in exploring identity through fashion and contemporary art. Visitors could begin touring Refashioning in either gallery space, but the exhibition’s main didactics were displayed immediately outside the gallery containing the work of CFGNY. These introductory text panels introduced the curatorial thesis of Refashioning: “As individual creators, their practices share a sensibility to obscure boundaries between art and design, high and low, and global and local, representing a new approach. Through this pairing, Refashioning suggests that fashion is always in formation.” Both CFGNY and Tominaga collaborated with the curator to develop the exhibition design for the designers’ respective gallery spaces—Tominaga also worked with the design studio Chen Chen & Kai Williams. This process created unique environments that were playful but intentional and seamlessly enhanced the presentation of the work. Provocatively positioned just inside the CFGNY gallery were two unusual mannequins (Figure 1). Artfully constructed from cardboard and both malepresenting with large arm muscles and broad chests, one mannequin was 1 Japan Society, “Gallery.” https:// japansociety.org/gallery/refashioning-exhibition/.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"169 - 174"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42946191","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The “Perfect Dress”","authors":"J. Parsons, Sara B. Marcketti","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2226969","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2226969","url":null,"abstract":"The process of “knocking off” the work of others has been an integral practice of the United States ready-to-wear industry since the 1890s. In the 1930s, the Fashion Originators Guild of America (FOGA) created an internal system to protect its members’ design work, but in 1941 this system was declared in restraint of trade, and the next best protection option laid in the US design patent system. This research examines the 4,523 dress patents issued in the United States between 1936 and 1942, focusing on the designers and/or manufacturers represented and the process and timing of patent applications. Analysis of select court cases of design patent infringement, including a case study of a patent for “The Perfect Dress” by leading FOGA member and ready-to-wear dress manufacturer Samuel Zahn, demonstrates the difficulty of protecting a patented dress design and the complicated nature of what constituted an original design.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"119 - 135"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42711002","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Costume Society of America Fellow 2023","authors":"Susan L. Hannel","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2233849","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2233849","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"191 - 192"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44451545","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Knit in Gold: An Examination of a Seventeenth-Century Knitted Waistcoat","authors":"Margaret O’Neil","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2229660","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2229660","url":null,"abstract":"Seventeenth-century knitted-silk waistcoats have mystified dress historians for years since little is known about how these intricately patterned knitted garments were worn or used. This paper documents the examination and research of a seventeenth-century woman’s knitted-silk waistcoat from the Burrell Collection, Glasgow Museums, Scotland. This waistcoat, acquired by the museum in 1937, is knit in silk yarns and illustrates the impressive craftsmanship of seventeenth-century knitting techniques. In documenting the close study of this seventeenth-century waistcoat, this research report shows that this garment was significantly altered for sale prior to the acquisition into the Burrell Collection and serves to contribute to knowledge of early modern knitting techniques.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"137 - 148"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45728548","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Melting Memories: Footwear Drawn out of Ice","authors":"Sarah Casey","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2227496","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2227496","url":null,"abstract":"This visual essay presents drawings related to a research project that sought to develop a visual language that communicates the precarity of clothing items that have emerged from alpine glaciers in Europe. These artworks achieve a poetic effect that recalls the tensions and challenges of preserving these artifacts of glacial archaeology. This essay focuses on selected drawings of footwear from the exhibition Emergency! at Drawing Projects UK (November 10, 2022–February 4, 2023) and articulates how drawing was used as a form of touching to imaginatively translate the experience of encountering these items of footwear into artworks. The artworks offer an example of how artistic engagement with museum collections can generate a creative response to traces of the past and invite reflection on the future of our planet.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"149 - 155"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45339539","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Bernat Klein: Design in Colour","authors":"Jacqueline Field","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2222998","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2222998","url":null,"abstract":"painting by Klein, showed the relationship between his nature-inspired paintings and his textile designs (see Figure 2). Branding & Identity showed his use of graphic design and branding for the promotion of his work; this was cleverly reflected in the use of Klein’s preferred font—Helvetica—in the design of the gallery’s didactic text. Then, Styling Interiors expanded on the interior design work Klein did for the FIGURE 3 “Maple,” Bernat Klein, ca. 1961, tweed of space-dyed brushed mohair, wool, and polyester yarns. Image © National Museums Scotland. Review 159","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"157 - 161"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45411155","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Silk: The Thread that Tied the World; Byzantine Silk on the Silk Roads: Journeys Between East and West, Past and Present","authors":"Sara Wilcox","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2216567","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2216567","url":null,"abstract":"Silk has a long and illustrious history as one of the world’s most luxurious fibers. Two recent books explore the story of silk from the development of sericulture in China to the modern era and the ways in which new ideas and technologies traveled the Silk Road alongside coveted silk textiles. Anthony Burton’s Silk: The Thread that Tied the World offers a good broad overview of the silk trade for those looking to understand its general history. Burton is a British historian who more recently has served as an advisor for textile and industrial documentaries for the BBC, including writing and presenting The Rise of King Cotton. Burton’s text reads like the narrative of a documentary, and illustrations on nearly every page provide excellent visuals of everything from silkworms to maps to the weaving process and finished textiles. Burton’s focus is on the role of silk as a catalyst for the spread of new ideas and the development of new technologies. His intent is to explain how “this remarkable substance produced by a rather boring looking moth had a central role in the development of so many aspects of our lives” (8). In Chapter 1, “Bombyx Mori,” Burton describes how silk thread is","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"183 - 186"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-06-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48380245","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}