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Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment 时尚和娱乐中的文化挪用
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-06-06 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2023.2206742
Melissa Gamble
{"title":"Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment","authors":"Melissa Gamble","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2206742","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2206742","url":null,"abstract":"In Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment, Yuniya Kawamura and Jung-Whan Marc de Jong provide the most comprehensive survey to date of the underlying theories and analyses of cultural appropriation. De Jong contributes analysis of the entertainment industry in Chapter 4 while Kawamura addresses academic studies, the fashion industry, and globalization in the remainder of the book. This ambitious work strives to compile, organize, and analyze scholarly work, numerous examples, and social and technological influences on culture and cultural appropriation in fashion, music, and television as they have evolved throughout the twentieth and early twenty-first centuries. In the first two chapters, Kawamura introduces readers to schools of cultural theory and prevalent scholars, such as Pierre Bourdieu, Thorstein Veblen, and Georg Simmel, who drove fashion and cultural studies in the late nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The reader gains an understanding of the western framework within which the fashion and entertainment industries developed. The author then provides an overview of research on cultural appropriation and analysis by prominent figures in the field, including legal scholar Susan Scafidi and cultural theorist James O. Young. This book serves as an excellent resource for anyone seeking to gain a more comprehensive perspective on theories and frameworks with which to understand cultural appropriation in both scholarly and public discourse. The complex and multipronged analysis in Chapters 3 and 4 benefits from photographic examples of appropriated styles and cultures. In Chapter 3, Kawamura utilizes the conceptual typology framework to organize and analyze cultural appropriation within the fashion industry. Numerous examples, both historic and current, make clear the industry’s propensity to commoditize cultures of the world. The author draws on the notion of biological, cultural, and sartorial hierarchies to show how western and non-western cultures have","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"187 - 189"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41795664","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 5
Electric Lady Liberty 电动自由女神
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-05-25 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2023.2206721
M. Porsella
{"title":"Electric Lady Liberty","authors":"M. Porsella","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2206721","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2206721","url":null,"abstract":"When Alice Claypoole Vanderbilt (1845–1934) appeared in the Electric Light Dress, commissioned from the House of Worth for her family’s legendary 1883 fancy-dress ball, she not only displayed her wealth but also signaled her modernity. While members of more established families came in historical costumes that confirmed their status by drawing comparisons with European aristocracy, Vanderbilt, whose family often had been derided as “new money,” used her costume to align herself with the innovative and exciting new technology of electric light. This paper explores the cultural context of Vanderbilt’s dress in relation to publicity campaigns for electric light and the Statue of Liberty in the late 1870s and early 1880s. In donning such a dress at this high-profile event, Alice Claypoole Vanderbilt intimated that she, and by extension her family, was the future of New York society.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"107 - 118"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-05-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47287851","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen 权力的线:来自圣加仑纺织博物馆的蕾丝
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-05-23 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2023.2206743
Isabella Rosner
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引用次数: 0
The Typical Tudor: Reconstructing Everyday 16th Century Dress 典型的都铎王朝：重建16世纪日常服饰
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-05-19 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2023.2206744
Jennifer Saxton-Rodríguez
{"title":"The Typical Tudor: Reconstructing Everyday 16th Century Dress","authors":"Jennifer Saxton-Rodríguez","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2206744","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2206744","url":null,"abstract":"In their book The Typical Tudor: Reconstructing Everyday 16th Century Dress, Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila make an argument for how workingand middle-class people dressed during the Tudor era in England. They support it with a variety of evidence: wills, legal documents, archeological finds, portraits, extant garments, and many other sources. This book is a follow-up and elaboration upon The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress (2006). It starts with an introduction that explains the groups of people the authors consider “typical,” which defines the scope of the book. Malcolm-Davies and Mikhaila offer visual and written evidence in support of their stance and, using this as a starting point, begin the book by describing how ordinary people purchased or otherwise acquired yardage and clothing. The next chapters are a detailed exploration of fabrics and colors used by “the typical Tudor.” Augmenting this chapter is a table with the names of colors and fabrics commonly used with supporting documentary evidence and descriptions of how each fabric was used in the construction of garments. It concludes with a page of pie charts detailing how color was used by the ordinary English person of the sixteenth century. The following chapter details construction techniques (hand stitches, fabric buttons, knitting and fulling instructions, methods for pleats, etc.) and includes detailed photographs of extant tools and garments from the sixteenth century, diagrams, and color photographs. Most of the rest of the book focuses on a variety of construction techniques for specific sixteenth-century garments and data about them. Possibly the most exciting of these sections describes in detail the cut, composition, and construction of a previously undiscovered","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"175 - 177"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-05-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45882268","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 2
Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy 郭培:时装幻想
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2023.2169312
Ann Marguerite Tartsinis
{"title":"Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy","authors":"Ann Marguerite Tartsinis","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2169312","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2169312","url":null,"abstract":"Upon entering San Francisco’s Legion of Honor Museum, visitors were confronted with French Impressionist Auguste Rodin’s figural sculpture The Age of Bronze (L’Age d’Airain, ca. 1875), gifted to the museum by its founder, philanthropist Alma de Bretteville Spreckels. Installed in the central rotunda of the beaux-arts-inspired building, the naturalism of Rodin’s nineteenth-century nude male stood in stark contrast to the gleaming neo-baroque ensembles by contemporary Chinese couturi ere Guo Pei that faced the famed bronze statue from the museum’s permanent galleries at left and right. More like wearable sculptures than couture garments, Guo’s creations from the 2006 “Samsara” and 2019 “Elysium” collections invited comparison with the historical artworks that surrounded each design, while announcing the spectacular reverie of contemporary fashion that awaited the visitor within the museum (FIGURE 1). Curated by Jill D’Alessandro, Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco Curator in Charge of Costume and Textile Arts, Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy was an insistent demonstration of the designer’s innovative historicism, sartorial ambition, and technical skill. On the upper floor, a discrete selection of Guo’s ensembles pierced the customary displays of the permanent collection. Thereafter, on the floor below, an assortment of her most imaginative designs was installed across the temporary exhibition galleries. Without paying the additional entrance fee for the lowerlevel presentation, an endeavoring visitor could measure the opulent gilt vegetal scrolls, appliqu e flowers, and branchlike protrusions of the “Elysium” dress against the simple clothing depicted in Georges de La Tour’s “Old Man” and","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"85 - 91"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41636066","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Garments, Accessories, and Stories 采购产品服装，配件和故事
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2022.2158627
Dyese L. Matthews, Kelly L. Reddy-Best
{"title":"Garments, Accessories, and Stories","authors":"Dyese L. Matthews, Kelly L. Reddy-Best","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2022.2158627","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2022.2158627","url":null,"abstract":"Activists often have used dress to express solidarity with Black resistance movements such as the US Civil Rights Movement of the 1950s and 1960s. In our research, we built upon our own and previous scholars’ work by analyzing the intersections of activism, identity, and dress in a specific space, place, and context: twenty-first-century Black women college students during the Black Lives Matter movement from 2013 to 2019 who were attending land-grant, predominately white institutions in Iowa. We explored these women’s everyday “fashion activism” through analysis of objects, photographs, and stories. We found that dress practices historically used by Black women activists are being revived and repurposed in the twenty-first century at the height of the Black Lives Matter movement era. These women shared that they knowingly wore these styles to emulate both their own and previous Black women’s dress practices.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"17 - 36"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45340564","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Stella Blum Grant Report Stella Blum Grant报告
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2023.2165330
R. Matheson
{"title":"Stella Blum Grant Report","authors":"R. Matheson","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2165330","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2165330","url":null,"abstract":"Phelps Associates, a business operated by the husband-and-wife design team of William Drown Phelps (1890–1962) and Elizabeth Heintges Phelps (1909–87) from 1940 until 1969, was critically acclaimed for creating accessories and sportswear that embodied American ideals from patriotism to practicality. The Phelpses’ accessories designs celebrated handcraft traditions in the making of leather goods, while both their accessories and sportswear designs emphasized long-term investment in quality goods. This research focused on the output of the Phelpses’ two postwar workshops located in Pennsylvania and North Carolina to consider how they expanded their small, critically acclaimed leather-goods workshop to produce ready-to-wear sportswear and how clients used their products. Phelpses’ designs, particularly those attributed to Elizabeth, served a consumer base of primarily middle- and upper-class white women in navigating gender roles during the exigencies of war and in the postwar period.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"37 - 53"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46698620","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Letter from the Editor 编辑来信
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2023.2182989
I. Mida
{"title":"Letter from the Editor","authors":"I. Mida","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2182989","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2182989","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"i - iii"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47595831","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Call for Papers: Reframing Fashion in the Museum 论文征集：重塑博物馆时尚
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2023.2184973
I. Mida, P. Slinkard
{"title":"Call for Papers: Reframing Fashion in the Museum","authors":"I. Mida, P. Slinkard","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2023.2184973","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2023.2184973","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"105 - 106"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48529122","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Conservation Concerns in Fashion Collections: Caring for Problematic Twentieth-Century Textiles, Apparel, and Accessories 时装收藏中的保护问题:关心有问题的20世纪纺织品、服装和配件
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2023-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2022.2158602
Elise Yvonne Morin-Rousseau
{"title":"Conservation Concerns in Fashion Collections: Caring for Problematic Twentieth-Century Textiles, Apparel, and Accessories","authors":"Elise Yvonne Morin-Rousseau","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2022.2158602","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2022.2158602","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"49 1","pages":"103 - 104"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45944791","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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