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Made It: The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion 成功：改变时尚的女性
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2021-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2021.1874190
Kelly Mann
{"title":"Made It: The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion","authors":"Kelly Mann","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1874190","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1874190","url":null,"abstract":"pastel-colored beach scene with a pink sun umbrella, these swimwear pieces stood opposite a collection of various works by Chanel, Hanae Mori, and Alice Edeling, among others. These pieces, displayed on a set of risers in front of a mod-inspired backdrop, represented design that acknowledged and promoted women’s increasingly active lifestyles and independence in the 1960s (FIGURE 3). The final gallery section, entitled “Designing for Change,” introduced fashion as a medium for social commentary and political change. Pieces by Frankie Welch, Vivienne Westwood, and Ann Demeulemeester appeared alongside works by Vivienne Tam (FIGURE 4), Natalie Chanin, and Jamie Okuma to illustrate how women designers have met diverse challenges head on with insightful and creative solutions, giving voice to concepts of diversity, acceptance, social responsibility, and collaboration. The open displays lent an expansive feeling to the gallery, while judicial use of spot color and additional visuals allowed the focus to remain on the garments. Although mention is made of women designing pants, only a few pants or trousers appeared within the pieces. Most information panels were text-heavy, and I did not have enough time to read each one, with only one hour in the gallery. I seemed more drawn to the large wall texts, but I purchased the exhibition catalogue, which includes essays on most of the individual designers. The mannequins were abstract or headless, in varying colors,or headless, in varying colors, from matte white to dark brown and almost black. Garments were displayed simply with no accessories such as hats, jewelry, or shoes. This may be due to FIGURE 3 Gallery view “Making Choices,” exhibition, Made It: The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion, 2020. Peabody Essex Museum. 110 DRESS VOLUME 47, NUMBER 1, 2021","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"107 - 111"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1874190","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45195948","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Welcome to Vol. 47, No. 1 欢迎来到第47卷第1期
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2021-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2021.1887690
Tina Bates
{"title":"Welcome to Vol. 47, No. 1","authors":"Tina Bates","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1887690","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1887690","url":null,"abstract":"ion to western naturalism. As supplements to her article, Libes shares with us her database of all the European beetle-wing embroidered garments dating from 1730 to 1926 that she has identified, as well as a detailed material study of two garments, one made for the FIGURE 1 Nurses in SickKids nursing wear, Hospital for Sick Children, Toronto, 2010. Courtesy of the Registered Nurses’ Council, Centre for Nursing, Hospital for Sick Children. 1 Ingrid Gessner, Miriam Nandi, and Juliane Schwarz-Bierschenk, “MatteRealities: Historical Trajectories and Conceptual Futures for Material Culture Studies,” Open Cultural Studies 3, no. 1 (2019): 312. © Costume Society of America 2021 DOI 10.1080/03612112.2021.1887690 i","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"i - ii"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1887690","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44289328","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Dressed in Dreams: A Black Girl’s Love Letter to the Power of Fashion 《梦中着装:一个黑人女孩写给时尚力量的情书
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2021-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2021.1857561
Dyese L. Matthews, Kelly L. Reddy-Best
{"title":"Dressed in Dreams: A Black Girl’s Love Letter to the Power of Fashion","authors":"Dyese L. Matthews, Kelly L. Reddy-Best","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2021.1857561","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2021.1857561","url":null,"abstract":"In Dressed in Dreams: A Black Girl’s Love Letter to the Power of Fashion, Tanisha Ford PhD, Professor of History at the CUNY Graduate Center in New York City, takes the reader on a journey through her life with a fashion studies lens. Ford, who was born in 1979, draws upon her personal memories to tell indepth stories of the significant role fashion played in her life as a Black woman coming of age in Fort Wayne, Indiana. Each chapter is centered around one article of clothing or style of appearance, including a dashiki, leather jacket, Jheri curl, tennis shoes, baggy jeans, coochie cutters, knee-high boots, bamboo earrings, afro puff, hoodie, and designer handbag. The book is a story of how fashion allowed Ford to “feel things. All the things” (3). Throughout the text, she","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"99 - 102"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2021.1857561","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44219709","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 4
“Glory in a Host of Entomological Spoils” “昆虫剧透中的荣耀”
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2020-12-18 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1833537
Kenna Libes
{"title":"“Glory in a Host of Entomological Spoils”","authors":"Kenna Libes","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1833537","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1833537","url":null,"abstract":"Iridescent, color-shifting beetle wing casings have been embroidered onto dress around the world for centuries. This paper explores a variation of the practice from its roots in Mughal-era India through its translocation and transformation by English dressmakers during the East India Company and colonial eras. This paper considers the first recorded English women to wear such garments, how and where they were made, and the intersections of fashion, exhibition, and naturalism. By examining extant textiles made for use in both countries , this paper asserts that the English-speaking world, influenced by its colonial sensibilities, appropriated and implemented a new style of beetle-wing embroidery.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"79 - 94"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-12-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1833537","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42842099","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Costume Society of America Fellow 2020 Howard Vincent Kurtz 2020年美国服装协会会员霍华德·文森特·库尔茨
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2020-10-19 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787606
H. Kurtz
{"title":"Costume Society of America Fellow 2020 Howard Vincent Kurtz","authors":"H. Kurtz","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1787606","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787606","url":null,"abstract":"Howard Vincent Kurtz, BFA, MFA is Professor Emeritus, School of Theater, George Mason University, Fairfax, Virginia, where he was the resident costume designer for their professional theater compan...","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-10-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787606","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"59433863","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Collecting Comme Collecting一样
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2020-10-10 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787595
Eanna Morrison Barrs
{"title":"Collecting Comme","authors":"Eanna Morrison Barrs","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1787595","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787595","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"179 - 182"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-10-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787595","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46195473","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
“The Layered Look” Revisited: “分层造型”重现:
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2020-10-08 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1799551
L. Baumgarten
{"title":"“The Layered Look” Revisited:","authors":"L. Baumgarten","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1799551","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1799551","url":null,"abstract":"Although eighteenth-century quilted petticoats consisted of simple rectangular panels sewn into tubes and pleated to narrow waistbands, the stitched patterns of these decorative skirts offered a wide variety of design options for the wearers. Using computer-assisted-design line drawings, scholars can more easily compare the stitching patterns and categorize the quilting by date and location. This article presents previously unpublished designs and new historical discoveries in quilted petticoats since the publication of “The Layered Look, Design in Eighteenth-Century Quilted Petticoats” in Dress 34 (2007). This study focuses on five sub-themes: British professionally drawn and constructed quilting, cord-quilted examples that have a round stamp on the reverse, regionalism in two areas—Philadelphia and New England, and pieced striped petticoats.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"181 - 198"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1799551","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46496198","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Perceptions of an Electronic Dress as Fashion, Art, and Costume 电子服装作为时尚、艺术和服装的观念
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2020-10-08 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1799568
Virginia Rolling, Karla P. Teel
{"title":"Perceptions of an Electronic Dress as Fashion, Art, and Costume","authors":"Virginia Rolling, Karla P. Teel","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1799568","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1799568","url":null,"abstract":"Recently, electronic dresses have been displayed as museum art objects for aesthetic evaluation. This cultural phenomenon was explored by determining museum visitors’ aesthetic experiences in viewing a dress with and without added electronics. Using a qualitative grounded-theory approach, the authors interviewed forty-four millennial participants during different viewings of the dress. Interview data results support that participants viewed apparel without digital music or colored LED lights as fashion, apparel with digital music as art, and apparel with colored LED lights as costume. This research is helpful for diverse fields such as apparel marketing and design, performing arts, and art museums.","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"47 1","pages":"167 - 179"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-10-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1799568","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"59433871","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Costume Society of America Fellow 2020 Jean Louise Parsons 2020年美国服装协会会员Jean Louise Parsons
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2020-07-27 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787647
J. Parsons
{"title":"Costume Society of America Fellow 2020 Jean Louise Parsons","authors":"J. Parsons","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1787647","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787647","url":null,"abstract":"Dr. Jean Parsons is a highly accomplished designer, dress historian, and educator. Her extensive list of publications and exhibited design work demonstrates a broad-based approach to the study of d...","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"187 - 188"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-07-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787647","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49022793","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Costume Society of America Fellow 2020 Elaine L. Pedersen 2020年美国服装协会会员Elaine L. Pedersen
IF 0.4 4区 社会学
Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America Pub Date : 2020-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2020.1787649
Elaine L. Pedersen
{"title":"Costume Society of America Fellow 2020 Elaine L. Pedersen","authors":"Elaine L. Pedersen","doi":"10.1080/03612112.2020.1787649","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787649","url":null,"abstract":"Elaine is one of the unsung heroes of our discipline. She is not one to seek the spotlight; however, she is absolutely deserving of becoming a CSA Fellow. Her teaching, mentoring, scholarship, and ...","PeriodicalId":42364,"journal":{"name":"Dress-The Journal of the Costume Society of America","volume":"46 1","pages":"189 - 190"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/03612112.2020.1787649","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46003951","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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