{"title":"Skirts: Fashioning Modern Femininity in the Twentieth Century, Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell (2022)","authors":"Lara Maleen Kipp","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00184_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00184_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Skirts: Fashioning Modern Femininity in the Twentieth Century, Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell (2022)\u0000 New York: St. Martin’s Press, 272 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-25027-579-0, h/bk, $28.99","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84720793","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Masks: Bowie and Artists of Artifice, James Curcio (ed.) (2020)","authors":"Catharine Weiss","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00190_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00190_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Masks: Bowie and Artists of Artifice, James Curcio (ed.) (2020)\u0000 Bristol: Intellect Ltd., 278 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78938-108-5, p/bk, $40.00","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88934339","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"L.A. Chic: A Locational History of Los Angeles Fashion, Susan Ingram and Markus Reisenleitner (2018)","authors":"Kenneth M. Kambara","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00183_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00183_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: L.A. Chic: A Locational History of Los Angeles Fashion, Susan Ingram and Markus Reisenleitner (2018)\u0000 Bristol: Intellect Ltd., 219 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78320-934-7, p/bk, $45.00\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78320-935-4, ePUB, $34.90\u0000 ISBN 978-1-78320-936-1, e-book, $34.90","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"82248057","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Fashioning Spain: From Mantillas to Rosalia, Francisco Fernández de Alba and Marcela T. Garcés (eds) (2021)","authors":"Christin Lindholm","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00187_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00187_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Fashioning Spain: From Mantillas to Rosalia, Francisco Fernández de Alba and Marcela T. Garcés (eds) (2021)\u0000 London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 224 pp.,\u0000 ISBN 978-1-35016-926-5, h/bk, $39.95","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"75671857","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Deplorable by proxy: Sartorial semiosis and the rendering of an underclass","authors":"M. Porter","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00194_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00194_1","url":null,"abstract":"In 2016, Donald Trump’s slogan ‘Make America Great Again’ (MAGA) – often displayed on a red cap – prompted myriad interpretations and reactions regarding the message itself and the hat it was displayed upon. Despite the hat’s polysemy, there has been no shortage of institutional attempts to codify the hat and, by extension, the wearers of the hat as racist or otherwise ‘deplorable’ (). By tracing the functional lineage of the MAGA hat alongside a case study of the 2019 Covington Catholic incident, this article uses media discourse analysis to investigate dress as a factional sociopolitical player while interrogating how cultural institutions contribute to social meaning-making, which in turn can leverage dress’s power and unduly malign constituent wearers. Employing theories of sartorial embodiment, the MAGA hat’s enthymematic reading and a critical linguistic frame, this article critiques the pathology of marginal myopia and locates how pejorative ascriptions by proxy of the MAGA hat render Trumpian conservatives, primarily of the White male ilk, as marginal subjects.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78490309","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Women’s dress and success in the Icelandic banking system","authors":"Linda Björg Árnadóttir, T. Heijstra","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00193_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00193_1","url":null,"abstract":"In this study on the power of dress in the Icelandic banking sector, we build on Nentwich and colleagues’ (2015) theoretical framework of change agency. We show that the framework bears relevance to changes occurring after the collapse of the Icelandic banking system in 2008. Our aim is to examine the role of dress in the process of change. The data are derived from ten semi-structured interviews with female bank employees, a group that has historically been marginalized within the Icelandic banking sector. Our findings reveal that visible changes in dress have signalled changes in societal norms and attitudes during and after the economic crisis. The disruption has created a window of opportunity for female bank employees to alter dressing norms. This alteration has subsequently increased their agency and visibility, thereby facilitating their upward mobility, mirroring with clients and representing confidence and trustworthiness. We find that changes in dress occur when ideas in society change, and that windows of opportunity are necessary for marginalized groups to expand their agency. Once these windows are created, dress can underline and bolster their agency.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89561074","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Muslim women consumers: Critical interpretations of US modest fashion brands entangled with the fashion-advocacy-capitalist-façade","authors":"Shanti Amalanathan, Kelly L. Reddy-Best","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00192_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00192_1","url":null,"abstract":"Following 9/11, some young Muslim American women have been wearing hijabs to assert their Islamic identities. They are also seeking fashionable modest clothing, yet, despite their growing buying power, the US modest fashion market targeting Muslim women appears underserved. The purpose of this study was to critically examine how niche modest fashion brands in the United States target Muslim women while drawing upon theoretical concepts centring on oppression and agency related to the long history of gendered Islamophobia Muslims have experienced. We analysed eleven brands’ websites and social media applying the constant comparative method and identified four themes: empowering Muslim women, reclaiming modesty as modern and beautiful, meeting fashionable modest wear demand, and rejecting and perpetuating colourism. In our analysis of the digital discourses of US modest fashion brands, we revealed that these brands emerged to meet the demand of young Muslim woman in the United States who are embracing the hijab and modest clothing as a potent symbol of resistance against western ideologies, the fashion system’s oppressive acts towards Muslim women and traditional Islamic dress codes. Yet, their advocacy-centred messages – empowerment, reclaiming modesty as beautiful – operate within a profit-driven system, which we theorize as a fashion-advocacy-capitalistic-façade . The fashion-advocacy-capitalist-façade concept helps explain the slippery slope that fashion brands are tiptoeing as they aim to empower Muslim women, offer trendy modest clothing, reject traditional Islamic dress codes for women and create space in the fashion market for this unmet demand. Although these brands aim to promote a positive sense of self for Muslim women, they cannot be withheld from critical examination and potential interpretations when operating within the capitalist-driven industry that is so often plagued with significant injustices.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-06-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135268599","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Self-perception and body image among cancer survivors","authors":"J. Yoo, Lisa VanHoose","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00196_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00196_1","url":null,"abstract":"The goal of this study is to identify the self-perception of cancer survivors’ body image distress and to illustrate fashion-oriented consumption as a coping mechanism. Retail therapy (RT) may be a promising intervention for cancer survivors to mitigate body image distress and promote positive health outcomes. The impact of cancer treatments on each survivor should be considered based on their body investment, cancer type, diagnosis, body weight and other demographic characteristics. Developing mitigation strategies using RT for cancer survivors with visible physical changes is crucial. Fashion-oriented shopping can give cancer survivors a sense of control and boost a positive self-image. Cancer survivors who are highly conscious of societally prescribed definitions of normal appearance may benefit significantly from RT.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79946367","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}