Deplorable by proxy: Sartorial semiosis and the rendering of an underclass

IF 0.4 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY
M. Porter
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引用次数: 0

Abstract

In 2016, Donald Trump’s slogan ‘Make America Great Again’ (MAGA) – often displayed on a red cap – prompted myriad interpretations and reactions regarding the message itself and the hat it was displayed upon. Despite the hat’s polysemy, there has been no shortage of institutional attempts to codify the hat and, by extension, the wearers of the hat as racist or otherwise ‘deplorable’ (). By tracing the functional lineage of the MAGA hat alongside a case study of the 2019 Covington Catholic incident, this article uses media discourse analysis to investigate dress as a factional sociopolitical player while interrogating how cultural institutions contribute to social meaning-making, which in turn can leverage dress’s power and unduly malign constituent wearers. Employing theories of sartorial embodiment, the MAGA hat’s enthymematic reading and a critical linguistic frame, this article critiques the pathology of marginal myopia and locates how pejorative ascriptions by proxy of the MAGA hat render Trumpian conservatives, primarily of the White male ilk, as marginal subjects.
可悲的代理:服装的符号化和下层阶级的渲染
2016年,唐纳德·特朗普的口号“让美国再次伟大”(MAGA)——通常被印在一顶红色的帽子上——引发了关于这句话本身和它所印的帽子的无数解释和反应。尽管帽子一词多义,但也不乏制度性的尝试,试图将帽子编纂成法律,并由此延伸,将戴帽子的人视为种族主义者或其他“可悲的”()。本文通过追溯MAGA帽子的功能谱系,并以2019年科文顿天主教事件为例进行研究,利用媒体话语分析来研究服装作为一个派系社会政治参与者,同时质疑文化机构如何促进社会意义的形成,而社会意义的形成反过来又可以利用服装的力量,不当地诋毁穿着者。本文运用服装体现理论、MAGA帽子的热读理论和批判性语言框架,批判了边缘近视的病理,并定位了MAGA帽子如何使特朗普派保守派(主要是白人男性)成为边缘主体。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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来源期刊
Fashion Style & Popular Culture
Fashion Style & Popular Culture HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.60
自引率
0.00%
发文量
53
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