{"title":"Factors determining fashion clothing interest and purchase intention: A study of Generation Z consumers in India","authors":"Neetu Singh, Niketa Chakrabarti, Rajesh Tripathi","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00197_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00197_1","url":null,"abstract":"This research provides a framework of factors determining clothing interest and subsequent purchase motivation of Generation Z consumers in India. The predictors of young consumers’ clothing interest are uniqueness, self-concept, brand image, word of mouth and perceived quality, with price consciousness moderating the interaction between clothing interest and purchase intention. The study employed structural equation modelling to analyse data collected via a self-administered questionnaire from 211 consumers across India aged 18–24. The resultant model established the role of uniqueness, self-concept and brand image as significant predictors of clothing interest, which influenced consumers’ purchase intention positively. Both word of mouth and perceived quality have a low impact on the fashion clothing consumption of young consumers. The moderating role of price consciousness was also not established indicating that young consumers would go ahead with their clothing purchase if they develop an interest in it, regardless of the price. As the results confirmed the role of uniqueness, self-concept and brand image on clothing interest, which in turn influence consumers’ purchase motivation, this study throws significant insight on factors, which determine young consumers’ clothing interest. The research will hence enable clothing brands to develop strategies, which fit the young consumers’ values and appeal to their aspirational lifestyle, influencing their purchase motivation and brand loyalty in return.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"81248261","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Beyond Afros and activism: Analysis of Black and African American women and fashion, style, dress and identity in fashion studies literature","authors":"C. Robertson, Caroline Kopot, Jamie L. Mestres","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00195_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00195_1","url":null,"abstract":"There is much scholarship on dress and identity and the social, psychological and cultural aspects of dress within the textile and apparel discipline. While there is certainly much literature on dress, identity, fashion and the self, we sought to examine how Black women are centred in this area of research. To achieve our goal, we engaged in a systematic literature review to critically analyse how Black women’s dress and identity are explored in fashion studies scholarship, which involved searching for recurring themes and then making suggestions for future research to fill in gaps regarding Black women’s dress and identity expression. To narrow the scope of this research, we focused on two named theoretical perspectives: Black feminist thought and Africana womanism. After analysis of the publications, we identified two major themes: research centring resistance, oppression and Eurocentric beauty standards and holistic representations of Black women. Overall, our findings highlight that both Black feminist thought and Africana womanism theories could benefit from more expansive utilization within fashion studies research. Both frameworks are lightly referenced, especially Africana womanism, and, because of its rarity, could contribute newer and more critical knowledge to the discipline. There is so much more to explore about Black women’s dress outside of these concepts. We hope to inspire new research on Black women with holistic representations of the self and style.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-06-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84239378","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Breaking the cycle: A sustainable fashion paradigm","authors":"Alyson Rae Demirdjian, B. Orzada","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00175_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00175_1","url":null,"abstract":"The fashion system fundamentally changed during the Industrial Revolution when the industry pivoted away from traditional craft-based production and towards mechanization and mass production. The design process, manufacturing operations, retail practices and marketing tactics of mass production contributed over time to the current climate crisis. Globally, the fashion system is acknowledged as an environmental and social emergency. Thus, the fashion system needs to get with the times. Fashion as a reflection of modernity needs to align with globally recognized social and environmental goals. Societal attachment to materialism and fashion consumption should be reconsidered. In this article we consider these challenges to propose a paradigm that breaks the fashion cycle and provides a framework for the role fashion producers and consumers should play in the twenty-first century.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78465259","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"How digital-only fashion brands are creating more participatory models of fashion co-design","authors":"E. Huggard, Natalia Särmäkari","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00176_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00176_1","url":null,"abstract":"The norms and systems of the fashion industry tend to support a small class of brands and designers creating fashion while the public takes on the role of passive consumer. The rise of digital fashion and a new sector of ‘digital-only’ fashion brands now provides unique ways for consumers to interact with fashion online, from buying wearables for digital gaming avatars, to wearing a digital dress on social media, to investing in non-fungible tokens (NFTs) – digital assets based on blockchain technology, bought and sold online. Digital-only fashion brands are reimagining the hierarchical relationships between brand and consumer towards one of empowerment and mutual value via decentralized co-design platforms. Such endeavours allow brands to build community and challenge the ownership and authorship conventions in the fashion industry. Co-design has been widely used by fashion brands as a strategy that promotes involvement from the public/consumer in creating customized and made-to-order products and experiences. Using established theories of participatory art, an approach to making art which engages the public and communities in the creative process, this article explores how digital-only fashion brands are creating more participatory models of fashion co-design. To confirm and further explore this theory and to consider how a participatory model is achieved in practice, a qualitative case study was conducted on The Fabricant Studio, a collaborative digital fashion atelier. The findings reveal new methods of co-design used by digital fashion brands that allow consumers to design and monetize their craft while retaining creators’ ownership. The application of the theory also underscores the importance of creative control and decision-making in the fashion co-design process to ensure it is truly participatory vs. interactive. The Fabricant’s methods to educate users through accessible platforms contribute to the diversification of co-designers and digital fashion designers in general.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85735734","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Adorn to be wild: Pornification in the age of hype fashion","authors":"Ali Khan","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00172_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00172_1","url":null,"abstract":"A quick stroll through the fast fashion shops on any high street these days and it becomes clear the influence porn has on fashion. However, the mainstream fashion industry has always been reluctant to acknowledge that connection due to concerns for ‘brand image’. But just like the relation between sex and art goes back beyond Roman times, the relation between porn and fashion is of course not new, and even within the contemporary fashion from the last 100 years there have been countless examples of such collaborations and crossovers. At a time when hype culture is arguably at its peak and the merging of streetwear and fashion is complete, these illustrations aim to bring into conversation the often-denied influence of porn on this phenomenon. By framing the hype brands into explicitly graphic sex acts, the illustrations aim to present an honest perspective on this multi-faceted relationship and the often-denied pornification within hype fashion society.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84487068","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Grey sweatpants and the #Challenge: Recuperating the Black penis","authors":"Brian Centrone","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00126_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00126_1","url":null,"abstract":"The social media-based #GraySweatpantsChallenge called for men to don a pair of grey sweatpants and share photos of how well the garment showed off their endowments. The accessibility and current social acceptance of sweatpants as a stylized garment allowed men of all races and classes to participate in the challenge. The Black men who participated received significant amounts of likes, shares and comments from female spectators who openly expressed their appreciation of the images on social media. This garnered the attention of predominantly White men who quickly co-opted the challenge by posting self-images with absurdly large objects shoved into their grey sweatpants. Although many people found these photos to be amusing, the takeover can be viewed as an extension of the scopic dismemberment of the Black penis that is connected to lynching photographs in the nineteenth century and to the myth of the ‘big Black dick’. Part fear and part fantasy, this myth is responsible for the continued fetishization and symbolic castration of the Black penis which can be seen in the creation of art images (particularly those by Robert Mapplethorpe), and racialized pornography (specifically gay). The #GraySweatpantsChallenge photos, however, do provide an opportunity for Black men to attempt a recuperation of the penises that had been literally and symbolically stolen from them for three centuries.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136131248","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Face first: Way Bandy, cosmetics and AIDS","authors":"Mark Joseph O’Connell","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00127_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00127_1","url":null,"abstract":"This article explores the design work and life of the New York based make-up artist Way Bandy. The beauty iconography created by Bandy is an important cultural record as it was imbricated within the larger glamour tropes of the 1970s and the draped, dancing luxury of disco divahood (explored through practice-led research in this article as well). Modes of dress, display and deportment often reflect much larger societal messages and meanings, and I would include the creation and presentation of the contemporaneous face within this cultural mythmaking. Make-up and cosmetics are vital components of that potent matrix, and Way Bandy designed the beauty aesthetic that reflected the sensual glamour of the disco era: glistening lips, alluring beckoning eyes and liquid silhouettes all echoed the promises of liberatory ease and an empowered sexuality for anyone who dared. His engagement with cosmetics was far more than ‘skin deep’ though, as he also engaged with the holistic and therapeutic roots of his artform: cosmetics (a history also explored in this article). Unfortunately, as one of the first fashion celebrities whom we lost to acquired immunodeficiency syndrome (AIDS), his life also must stand as a tragic metonymic of his troubled times, and the theoretical explorations of Susan Sontag from AIDS as Metaphor are included as a way of analysing the application of epidemiological meanings and the consequences of those processes. Ultimately, this research seeks to reclaim the importance of the Bandy legacy as his oeuvre was marginalized after his death, as happened with so many brilliant designers and artists whose deaths from AIDS overshadowed truly amazing careers.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136131249","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"My previous life in drag","authors":"Kendel R. Bolton","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00171_2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00171_2","url":null,"abstract":"Kendel Bolton shares his history of drag, scholarship and life in the queer community. He highlights his own struggles as a former drag queen and builds upon the history of the LGBTQIA community.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77924183","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Foraging for fashion’s future: The use of mycelium materials and fungi intelligence in fashion design","authors":"Tara Chittenden","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00174_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00174_1","url":null,"abstract":"In reaction to the climate crisis, we have seen the emergence of environmental fashion trends that seek to limit energy use and cut emissions, with the aim of building sustainability. The provocation to design in concert with our biosphere is driving fashion designers to renegotiate our relationship with living systems in the quest for innovative ecological design models. This article explores the transformative coupling of fungi fabric and fashion. It considers how fashion brands and designers might develop new languages by bringing fungi’s root intelligence into wearable forms. A body of remarkable experiments has shown that fungi engage in decision-making, are capable of learning and possess short-term memory. The intelligence of the fungal ecosystem and its ability to repair damage in its own structure brings new possibilities to the idea of a ‘smart’ textile. Preserving these active qualities in a textile raises challenges for fashion brands and consumers about how to store the garments and whether we would need to feed our wardrobe of the future to keep it alive. If use of mycelium in fashion is to progress beyond the Petri dish or catwalk novelty, challenges of consistency and scale need to be addressed. Far from the ‘perfect cure’, fungi materials raise questions about their eco-credentials, finishing treatments and disposability, and the ethics of working with living organisms. With a rising experimentation in bio-fabrics, I suggest the need for a critical discourse of materials that aims to promote new questions and scholarship on the intersections between body and botany, decomposition and drapery, and engineering and ecosystems.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-02-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79305377","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Virtual reality as a new means of communication: A case study analysis of fashion brand, Accidental Cutting","authors":"Eva Iszoro, K. Almond","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00173_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00173_1","url":null,"abstract":"The research analyses the challenges and opportunities that virtual reality has initiated for the communication of fashion collections since the COVID-19 pandemic began in 2020. It focuses on a case study of the work of the Accidental Cutting fashion brand, who have pioneered the presentation of virtual fashion collections at London Fashion Week since September 2020. The brand has explored new ways to promote and market their collections investigating a diverse use of virtual reality. The study also explores how this technology has subsequently become linked to different phases involved in the design and manufacture of the brand’s clothes. The methodological approach is qualitative and focuses on the auto-ethnographic reflections of the Accidental Cutting designer. These consider the challenges, technical and material difficulties, as well as opportunities in the global context of fashion, which the brand had to face when showing their virtual collections amid the restrictions imposed by COVID-19. The research also considers the future direction for the use of virtual reality in global fashion communication within a post pandemic world.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-02-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84567019","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}